Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJan 15th 2024

This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi, the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them.  It has proved to be one of my favour...

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi, the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them.  It has proved to be one of my favour...

Jan 15th 2024

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreFeb 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Feb 6th 2019

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi

Read MoreMar 2nd 2020

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi Enzo Ciardi has a lovely smile. It’s big (but then he’s big), it’s warm, it’s friendly. It’s extremely welcoming.  And best of all, I can enjoy that smile fully. Because when he opens the door to...

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi Enzo Ciardi has a lovely smile. It’s big (but then he’s big), it’s warm, it’s friendly. It’s extremely welcoming.  And best of all, I can enjoy that smile fully. Because when he opens the door to...

Mar 2nd 2020

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

Read MoreMar 21st 2018

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the ...

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the ...

Mar 21st 2018

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartoria Ciardi

Read MoreNov 7th 2018

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is st...

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartoria Ciardi

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is st...

Nov 7th 2018

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

Read MoreFeb 23rd 2018

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance and so on are correct. It is ...

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance and so on are correct. It is ...

Feb 23rd 2018

Sartoria Ciardi - The next generation

Read MoreNov 27th 2017

Renato Ciardi, who sadly passed away earlier this year, was one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring. Succession planning is rarely one of a bespoke tailor’s strengths, but fortunately the Ciardi family began planning for this several years ago,...

Sartoria Ciardi - The next generation

Renato Ciardi, who sadly passed away earlier this year, was one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring. Succession planning is rarely one of a bespoke tailor’s strengths, but fortunately the Ciardi family began planning for this several years ago,...

Nov 27th 2017

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

Read MoreSep 27th 2023

This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona. A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year.  It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier but also heavie...

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona. A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year.  It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier but also heavie...

Sep 27th 2023

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

Read MoreJan 18th 2023

Please read part one of this article, here, before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differen...

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

Please read part one of this article, here, before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differen...

Jan 18th 2023

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

Read MoreNov 9th 2022

I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi.  I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place; flannel...

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi.  I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place; flannel...

Nov 9th 2022

The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction 

Read MoreJan 12th 2024

Next week we’ll begin a series of articles that breaks down the style of my bespoke coats, building on the popular 2018 series that looked at suits and jackets.  That turned into a book, Bespoke Style, which was a great illustration of the rich...

The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction 

Next week we’ll begin a series of articles that breaks down the style of my bespoke coats, building on the popular 2018 series that looked at suits and jackets.  That turned into a book, Bespoke Style, which was a great illustration of the rich...

Jan 12th 2024

New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts

Read MoreMar 27th 2023

Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green. As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles.  The pink is the same as that use...

New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts

Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green. As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles.  The pink is the same as that use...

Mar 27th 2023

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

Read MoreNov 10th 2023

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Nov 10th 2023

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

Read MoreMay 9th 2022

This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others.  My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain.  I might be going into town,...

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others.  My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain.  I might be going into town,...

May 9th 2022

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

Read MoreMar 20th 2023

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring.  Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring.  Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...

Mar 20th 2023

Video: Jamie Ferguson on photography and style

Read MoreFeb 20th 2023

This was really fun. I guess it’s always easier interviewing someone you know well, but there’s also a temptation there to just chat - to forget the perhaps more significant topics you had wanted to discuss.  I think we got a nice balance. Th...

Video: Jamie Ferguson on photography and style

This was really fun. I guess it’s always easier interviewing someone you know well, but there’s also a temptation there to just chat - to forget the perhaps more significant topics you had wanted to discuss.  I think we got a nice balance. Th...

Feb 20th 2023

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

Read MoreJun 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Jun 10th 2019

Introducing: The PS Undershirt

Read MoreMar 1st 2023

For the past five years or so, I’ve been wearing Hamilton & Hare’s tubular T-shirts under things.  They’re what I wear underneath knitwear, what I wear under a shirt, even what I sleep in. They’re the best fine-cotton tee I’ve ever wo...

Introducing: The PS Undershirt

For the past five years or so, I’ve been wearing Hamilton & Hare’s tubular T-shirts under things.  They’re what I wear underneath knitwear, what I wear under a shirt, even what I sleep in. They’re the best fine-cotton tee I’ve ever wo...

Mar 1st 2023

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

Read MoreMar 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

Mar 9th 2022

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat in 'British Warm'

Read MoreOct 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat in 'British Warm'

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Oct 23rd 2020

An evening with Ciardi

Read MoreFeb 24th 2018

In a couple of weeks (Wednesday, March 7) Sartoria Ciardi will be coming to London for the first time.  They will be holding a trunk show all day on Thursday 8th, but we thought it would also be nice to have an event the night before.  So on the ...

An evening with Ciardi

In a couple of weeks (Wednesday, March 7) Sartoria Ciardi will be coming to London for the first time.  They will be holding a trunk show all day on Thursday 8th, but we thought it would also be nice to have an event the night before.  So on the ...

Feb 24th 2018

Sartoria Melina - first London trunkshow, and talk

Read MoreApr 24th 2018

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th.  They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event for them on the Wednesday ni...

Sartoria Melina - first London trunkshow, and talk

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th.  They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event for them on the Wednesday ni...

Apr 24th 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long, hard day)

Read MoreMar 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the increasing number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although the majority of visitors to Pitti are buyers from around the wo...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long, hard day)

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the increasing number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although the majority of visitors to Pitti are buyers from around the wo...

Mar 30th 2018

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

Read MoreJan 11th 2021

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

Jan 11th 2021

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreApr 6th 2016

   Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer - the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio - and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.  But it has enough unique shops to mak...

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

   Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer - the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio - and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.  But it has enough unique shops to mak...

Apr 6th 2016