Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 4

Read MoreApr 5th 2010

Continuing the lasting process of my bespoke shoes at GJ Cleverley from part 3 , with Teemu LeppanenSo first Teemu lines up the last with the joints on either side of the pencil outline. Then he notes how much has to be taken off the heel to make ...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 4

Continuing the lasting process of my bespoke shoes at GJ Cleverley from part 3 , with Teemu LeppanenSo first Teemu lines up the last with the joints on either side of the pencil outline. Then he notes how much has to be taken off the heel to make ...

Apr 5th 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 3

Read MoreApr 2nd 2010

In the previous two posts in this series, we explored the process of being measured for a pair of bespoke shoes and the selection of model. Now we’re on to the lasting.Teemu Leppanen was to make my last, upstairs on the first floor of Cleverley’s...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 3

In the previous two posts in this series, we explored the process of being measured for a pair of bespoke shoes and the selection of model. Now we’re on to the lasting.Teemu Leppanen was to make my last, upstairs on the first floor of Cleverley’s...

Apr 2nd 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 9

Read MoreSep 13th 2010

Last week was my second fitting at GJ Cleverley on the bespoke pair of cap-toes in the Anthony Cleverley style I ordered at the beginning of this series. Having found that there was a little too much excess across the vamp, above the joints of the t...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 9

Last week was my second fitting at GJ Cleverley on the bespoke pair of cap-toes in the Anthony Cleverley style I ordered at the beginning of this series. Having found that there was a little too much excess across the vamp, above the joints of the t...

Sep 13th 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 5

Read MoreMay 21st 2010

Onto the next stage of the bespoke shoe process this week, with the clicking (cutting) of the leather. It turned out my shoes had already been clicked and closed (sewn together) – that’s them above, a half brogue in espresso brown. So to demonst...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 5

Onto the next stage of the bespoke shoe process this week, with the clicking (cutting) of the leather. It turned out my shoes had already been clicked and closed (sewn together) – that’s them above, a half brogue in espresso brown. So to demonst...

May 21st 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 10

Read MoreOct 1st 2010

The penultimate stage of my Cleverley shoes, now – the making of the heels and stitching of the soles. The process of stitching the sole is very similar to that shown previously in attaching the welt – same type of stiches, just a little more att...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 10

The penultimate stage of my Cleverley shoes, now – the making of the heels and stitching of the soles. The process of stitching the sole is very similar to that shown previously in attaching the welt – same type of stiches, just a little more att...

Oct 1st 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 7

Read MoreJun 16th 2010

Onto the next stage of my shoes being made at Cleverley’s. This week, the lasting and the sewing of the welt. The job is being done by Andy, who has been with Cleverley for quite a while – that’s him in the picture above, making shoes for Prin...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 7

Onto the next stage of my shoes being made at Cleverley’s. This week, the lasting and the sewing of the welt. The job is being done by Andy, who has been with Cleverley for quite a while – that’s him in the picture above, making shoes for Prin...

Jun 16th 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 8

Read MoreAug 2nd 2010

  Finally, I get to put my GJ Cleverley shoes on. This is the first fitting, following the shoe being lasted and a welt sewn on by Andy last month. The shoe has no sole, but the welt is sewn around the front and braced at the back, with a temporar...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 8

  Finally, I get to put my GJ Cleverley shoes on. This is the first fitting, following the shoe being lasted and a welt sewn on by Andy last month. The shoe has no sole, but the welt is sewn around the front and braced at the back, with a temporar...

Aug 2nd 2010

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 6

Read MoreJun 2nd 2010

The next stage in our painstaking exploration of shoemaking at GJ Cleverley is the checking and lasting. Having cut the leather to size and had it closed, the completed uppers have to be stretched onto the last.This stage is intended to check that th...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 6

The next stage in our painstaking exploration of shoemaking at GJ Cleverley is the checking and lasting. Having cut the leather to size and had it closed, the completed uppers have to be stretched onto the last.This stage is intended to check that th...

Jun 2nd 2010

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

Read MoreJan 17th 2015

 Well, you asked for more pictures... First, the speakers.    

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

 Well, you asked for more pictures... First, the speakers.    

Jan 17th 2015

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

Read MoreMar 11th 2015

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Mar 11th 2015

Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review

Read MoreNov 22nd 2023

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

Nov 22nd 2023

Sticking with Yohei: Commissioning black oxfords

Read MoreJun 26th 2023

Readers will be aware that I have become a little sceptical about bespoke shoes in recent years. As I detailed in the article ‘Are bespoke shoes worth it?’ my experiences have been a little patchy, and looking back on 13 years of commissioning, i...

Sticking with Yohei: Commissioning black oxfords

Readers will be aware that I have become a little sceptical about bespoke shoes in recent years. As I detailed in the article ‘Are bespoke shoes worth it?’ my experiences have been a little patchy, and looking back on 13 years of commissioning, i...

Jun 26th 2023

Sales success: George Cleverley bespoke

Read MoreJan 4th 2009

My philosophy has always been to buy classic items that will last me a long time, in the best quality I can afford. Over time, I will upgrade the clothes I have and give away the old ones, rather than merely accumulate. There’s nothing wrong with v...

Sales success: George Cleverley bespoke

My philosophy has always been to buy classic items that will last me a long time, in the best quality I can afford. Over time, I will upgrade the clothes I have and give away the old ones, rather than merely accumulate. There’s nothing wrong with v...

Jan 4th 2009

Rivolta: A brave innovation in bespoke

Read MoreOct 2nd 2009

Milan can easily be underrated by men who love classic style. Given the choice of Italian cities to visit, they would always pick Naples – the home of soft tailoring, that very distinctive shoulder and companies like E Marinella and Kiton (not to m...

Rivolta: A brave innovation in bespoke

Milan can easily be underrated by men who love classic style. Given the choice of Italian cities to visit, they would always pick Naples – the home of soft tailoring, that very distinctive shoulder and companies like E Marinella and Kiton (not to m...

Oct 2nd 2009

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

Read MoreApr 1st 2022

Alden has this particular shape of shoe, on what is referred to as the ‘modified’ last.  It’s unusual, almost orthopaedic in appearance, with a narrow waist that hugs the middle of the foot and rather bulging sides to fully accommodate the joi...

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

Alden has this particular shape of shoe, on what is referred to as the ‘modified’ last.  It’s unusual, almost orthopaedic in appearance, with a narrow waist that hugs the middle of the foot and rather bulging sides to fully accommodate the joi...

Apr 1st 2022

Why you buy bespoke suits first

Read MoreSep 20th 2009

After four bespoke suits made in Hong Kong over the past few years, and now embarking on my second British bespoke suit, I find it hard to see how I could ever stop getting a particular thrill out of it. But it will be a while before I pay for bespok...

Why you buy bespoke suits first

After four bespoke suits made in Hong Kong over the past few years, and now embarking on my second British bespoke suit, I find it hard to see how I could ever stop getting a particular thrill out of it. But it will be a while before I pay for bespok...

Sep 20th 2009

Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last

Read MoreDec 5th 2022

Moulded Shoe in New York is a charming shop. A family-run business now in its third generation, It’s narrow and tall, with shoe boxes stacked way up to a double-height ceiling.  There are newspaper cuttings, customer photos and a Japanese cartoon ...

Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last

Moulded Shoe in New York is a charming shop. A family-run business now in its third generation, It’s narrow and tall, with shoe boxes stacked way up to a double-height ceiling.  There are newspaper cuttings, customer photos and a Japanese cartoon ...

Dec 5th 2022

What is worth being made bespoke?

Read MoreAug 21st 2015

  In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth having made bespoke.In order to set out my views on this, I have listed five items that are ...

What is worth being made bespoke?

  In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth having made bespoke.In order to set out my views on this, I have listed five items that are ...

Aug 21st 2015

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Read MoreMay 25th 2011

Latest from The Rake:Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon CromptonYou have to fee...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Latest from The Rake:Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon CromptonYou have to fee...

May 25th 2011

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

Read MoreFeb 19th 2024

At Pitti Uomo back in January I took the opportunity to wear mostly tailoring and ties - the two outfits shown above and below. And it felt great.  I know there are traditionalists who see me as the antithesis of this, as I’m rarely pictured weari...

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

At Pitti Uomo back in January I took the opportunity to wear mostly tailoring and ties - the two outfits shown above and below. And it felt great.  I know there are traditionalists who see me as the antithesis of this, as I’m rarely pictured weari...

Feb 19th 2024

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Read MoreJun 15th 2022

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing.  The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing.  The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...

Jun 15th 2022

Saint Crispin's shoes - Review

Read MoreMay 26th 2016

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere.  Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lac...

Saint Crispin's shoes - Review

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere.  Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lac...

May 26th 2016

Bespoke loafers with Seiji McCarthy: Commissioning and fitting 

Read MoreDec 15th 2023

In Japan earlier this year I started the process of commissioning a pair of bespoke loafers from Seiji McCarthy.  Loafers are often tricky to make bespoke, and bespoke as a whole I’ve found a little inconsistent, so why did I take this leap with S...

Bespoke loafers with Seiji McCarthy: Commissioning and fitting 

In Japan earlier this year I started the process of commissioning a pair of bespoke loafers from Seiji McCarthy.  Loafers are often tricky to make bespoke, and bespoke as a whole I’ve found a little inconsistent, so why did I take this leap with S...

Dec 15th 2023

My watches - eight years later

Read MoreAug 24th 2022

I buy watches in much the same way as I suggest other people buy tailoring.  I have a small number, of high quality, which meet a range of needs - formalities, colours, and a little extra to keep things interesting.  I went through a period of abou...

My watches - eight years later

I buy watches in much the same way as I suggest other people buy tailoring.  I have a small number, of high quality, which meet a range of needs - formalities, colours, and a little extra to keep things interesting.  I went through a period of abou...

Aug 24th 2022

Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights 

Read MoreNov 3rd 2023

Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...

Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights 

Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...

Nov 3rd 2023