Paris: A menswear shopping guide - 2024 update

Read MoreMay 10th 2024

Quite a lot has changed in the five years since we last updated this Paris shopping guide (and yes, I know just as much as changed elsewhere - we will also update the others!).  Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the ex...

Paris: A menswear shopping guide - 2024 update

Quite a lot has changed in the five years since we last updated this Paris shopping guide (and yes, I know just as much as changed elsewhere - we will also update the others!).  Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the ex...

May 10th 2024

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat

Read MoreFeb 24th 2023

This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy.  However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...

Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat

This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy.  However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...

Feb 24th 2023

Unexpected texture and colour - Denim and linen

Read MoreMar 19th 2018

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino and featured here. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic menswear in way...

Unexpected texture and colour - Denim and linen

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino and featured here. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic menswear in way...

Mar 19th 2018

Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre

Read MoreFeb 28th 2020

Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre.  Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...

Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre

Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre.  Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...

Feb 28th 2020

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

Read MoreFeb 18th 2015

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Feb 18th 2015

When Lorenzo met Joe

Read MoreOct 23rd 2013

A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to make it happen. “I’m such a ...

When Lorenzo met Joe

A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to make it happen. “I’m such a ...

Oct 23rd 2013

Suit style 3: The double breasted

Read MoreJun 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...

Jun 27th 2016

Outfits I got wrong

Read MoreFeb 19th 2021

Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe.  Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...

Outfits I got wrong

Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe.  Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...

Feb 19th 2021

The Finest Menswear in the World

Read MoreJul 17th 2015

  Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World.- You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop -It will be p...

The Finest Menswear in the World

  Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World.- You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop -It will be p...

Jul 17th 2015

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

Read MoreJan 18th 2023

Please read part one of this article, here, before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differen...

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

Please read part one of this article, here, before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differen...

Jan 18th 2023

Where to buy a RTW double-breasted navy overcoat

Read MoreDec 20th 2023

By Manish Puri Some years back, I was having a drink with my partner, Gemma, and a friend, Nathan, who shared my interest in clothes. Over a few pints and packets of bacon fries we delved deep into matters political and philosophical, before turning...

Where to buy a RTW double-breasted navy overcoat

By Manish Puri Some years back, I was having a drink with my partner, Gemma, and a friend, Nathan, who shared my interest in clothes. Over a few pints and packets of bacon fries we delved deep into matters political and philosophical, before turning...

Dec 20th 2023

B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review

Read MoreMar 6th 2024

We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article.  It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it makes...

B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review

We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article.  It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it makes...

Mar 6th 2024

Five double-breasted styles compared

Read MoreSep 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these ...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these ...

Sep 1st 2016

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

Read MoreJun 22nd 2015

 *   Update: Going by the 'likes' on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as:Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? Join in!)  *   These are the six pieces that our...

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

 *   Update: Going by the 'likes' on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as:Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? Join in!)  *   These are the six pieces that our...

Jun 22nd 2015

Tips on buying an overcoat

Read MoreOct 16th 2015

  One of these days I’ll put together an editorial calendar. It always comes as a surprise when people start asking for advice on overcoats as the weather turns cold, but it shouldn’t. The same people ask for tips on luggage and swimming trunks...

Tips on buying an overcoat

  One of these days I’ll put together an editorial calendar. It always comes as a surprise when people start asking for advice on overcoats as the weather turns cold, but it shouldn’t. The same people ask for tips on luggage and swimming trunks...

Oct 16th 2015

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

Read MoreNov 22nd 2013

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent strugg...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent strugg...

Nov 22nd 2013

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Read MoreJan 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Jan 16th 2019

Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris

Read MoreNov 14th 2012

  French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by Francesco Smalto in 1962 when he...

Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris

  French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by Francesco Smalto in 1962 when he...

Nov 14th 2012

Almost ready - suits being made for our Tailoring Symposium

Read MoreJun 12th 2015

 At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and Ander...

Almost ready - suits being made for our Tailoring Symposium

 At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and Ander...

Jun 12th 2015

Sartoria Melina - bespoke Neapolitan leather

Read MoreSep 4th 2017

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored jackets in suede, however, I n...

Sartoria Melina - bespoke Neapolitan leather

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored jackets in suede, however, I n...

Sep 4th 2017

My bespoke bow tie, from La Bowtique

Read MoreFeb 21st 2022

Back in December we covered the various styles of bow tie, from batwing to butterfly.  Learning about the traditions and conventions helped me clarify which style I prefer for myself, and today I’ll be covering which one I had made, and why.  My ...

My bespoke bow tie, from La Bowtique

Back in December we covered the various styles of bow tie, from batwing to butterfly.  Learning about the traditions and conventions helped me clarify which style I prefer for myself, and today I’ll be covering which one I had made, and why.  My ...

Feb 21st 2022

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

Read MoreSep 22nd 2011

  You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it's alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by thos...

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

  You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it's alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by thos...

Sep 22nd 2011

Japanese retail and the growth of bespoke

Read MoreSep 30th 2016

Our trip to Japan this week was meant to be roughly split into three parts: retail (for a shopping guide), bespoke makers (for a range of posts and freelance articles) and Japanese crafts (around Osaka and Kyoto).But strangely enough, it was the bes...

Japanese retail and the growth of bespoke

Our trip to Japan this week was meant to be roughly split into three parts: retail (for a shopping guide), bespoke makers (for a range of posts and freelance articles) and Japanese crafts (around Osaka and Kyoto).But strangely enough, it was the bes...

Sep 30th 2016

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreSep 17th 2018

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris - which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now, the ...

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris - which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now, the ...

Sep 17th 2018