A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts

Read MoreApr 4th 2022

By Manish Puri Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer? It shouldn’t be difficult to answer. A...

A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts

By Manish Puri Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer? It shouldn’t be difficult to answer. A...

Apr 4th 2022

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

Read MoreJul 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...

Jul 25th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

Read MoreJul 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

Jul 20th 2016

The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and cotton

Read MoreOct 18th 2021

One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In our first chapter of this series - The Gu...

The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and cotton

One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In our first chapter of this series - The Gu...

Oct 18th 2021

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

Read MoreJul 1st 2011

A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how the cloth falls across your body ...

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit

A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how the cloth falls across your body ...

Jul 1st 2011

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

Read MoreDec 30th 2020

We all know different materials age in different ways.  Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunlight. It wil...

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

We all know different materials age in different ways.  Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunlight. It wil...

Dec 30th 2020

Our Summer Top 10

Read MoreJun 7th 2017

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, there is nothing commercial abo...

Our Summer Top 10

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, there is nothing commercial abo...

Jun 7th 2017

In praise of the cotton suit

Read MoreOct 21st 2013

Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ages subtly and gracefully. The cott...

In praise of the cotton suit

Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ages subtly and gracefully. The cott...

Oct 21st 2013

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

Read MoreJun 7th 2019

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the warme...

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the warme...

Jun 7th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreFeb 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Feb 6th 2019

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

Read MoreApr 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vintage ones. But sinc...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vintage ones. But sinc...

Apr 30th 2021

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

Read MoreJul 9th 2018

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth (more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth (more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...

Jul 9th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

Read MoreApr 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Apr 18th 2018

The A-Z of cloth

Read MoreNov 11th 2016

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing. This took a lot of wor...

The A-Z of cloth

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing. This took a lot of wor...

Nov 11th 2016

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

Read MoreOct 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Oct 10th 2016

Introducing: The Finest Polo

Read MoreMay 19th 2021

This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also, it?...

Introducing: The Finest Polo

This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also, it?...

May 19th 2021

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

Read MoreMay 15th 2013

Fans of traditional weaving and knitwear brands are funny about old machines. They often equate old machinery with superior techniques, when the new machines usually do at least as good a job – just faster. Usually the reason the brand still has ol...

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

Fans of traditional weaving and knitwear brands are funny about old machines. They often equate old machinery with superior techniques, when the new machines usually do at least as good a job – just faster. Usually the reason the brand still has ol...

May 15th 2013

A green cotton suit?

Read MoreJan 12th 2015

 In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo's cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make.Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth option. I'll explain the style aspects ...

A green cotton suit?

 In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo's cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make.Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth option. I'll explain the style aspects ...

Jan 12th 2015

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

Read MoreJan 5th 2015

 This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment.The suit is green cotton gabardine – an i...

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

 This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment.The suit is green cotton gabardine – an i...

Jan 5th 2015

The guide to summer trouser cloths

Read MoreMay 10th 2017

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day. Unfortunately, th...

The guide to summer trouser cloths

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day. Unfortunately, th...

May 10th 2017

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

Read MoreOct 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Oct 20th 2017

If you only had five (smart) trousers

Read MoreMar 28th 2022

Of all the articles I’ve written in our Wardrobe Building series, this might be the hardest. Even if we’re just looking at smart trousers, the pairs that suit somebody will vary hugely with lifestyle and with taste. A pair of whipcords is prob...

If you only had five (smart) trousers

Of all the articles I’ve written in our Wardrobe Building series, this might be the hardest. Even if we’re just looking at smart trousers, the pairs that suit somebody will vary hugely with lifestyle and with taste. A pair of whipcords is prob...

Mar 28th 2022

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

Read MoreJul 6th 2020

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat - ‘How can I dress up without a suit?’ - was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home.  Something that you can throw on for a video phone call, in other words,...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat - ‘How can I dress up without a suit?’ - was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home.  Something that you can throw on for a video phone call, in other words,...

Jul 6th 2020

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Jun 14th 2019

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

Read MoreFeb 25th 2015

 Green cotton trousers - the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap.Non-English cloth merchants tend towards t...

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

 Green cotton trousers - the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap.Non-English cloth merchants tend towards t...

Feb 25th 2015