The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

Read MoreMay 29th 2019

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was very conscious of being the only...

The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was very conscious of being the only...

May 29th 2019

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Read MoreJun 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Jun 17th 2019

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vick Tailor and Pecora Ginza

Read MoreOct 19th 2016

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country.The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers and bureaucrats, and increasingl...

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vick Tailor and Pecora Ginza

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country.The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers and bureaucrats, and increasingl...

Oct 19th 2016

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama

Read MoreNov 28th 2016

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...

Nov 28th 2016

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

Read MoreMar 27th 2017

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing.I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers.We me...

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing.I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers.We me...

Mar 27th 2017

Ring Jacket, Japan - Factory visit

Read MoreMar 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of a similar level. But until recently, most factories in Japan produced at a fairly low qualit...

Ring Jacket, Japan - Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of a similar level. But until recently, most factories in Japan produced at a fairly low qualit...

Mar 5th 2018

Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style

Read MoreJul 5th 2019

Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...

Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style

Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...

Jul 5th 2019

Japanese retail and the growth of bespoke

Read MoreSep 30th 2016

Our trip to Japan this week was meant to be roughly split into three parts: retail (for a shopping guide), bespoke makers (for a range of posts and freelance articles) and Japanese crafts (around Osaka and Kyoto).But strangely enough, it was the bes...

Japanese retail and the growth of bespoke

Our trip to Japan this week was meant to be roughly split into three parts: retail (for a shopping guide), bespoke makers (for a range of posts and freelance articles) and Japanese crafts (around Osaka and Kyoto).But strangely enough, it was the bes...

Sep 30th 2016

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

Read MoreJan 28th 2019

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Stephen Szczepanek began importing them ...

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Stephen Szczepanek began importing them ...

Jan 28th 2019

Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium - in Tokyo

Read MoreMay 2nd 2019

For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, Shibuya, and will discuss the r...

Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium - in Tokyo

For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, Shibuya, and will discuss the r...

May 2nd 2019

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: The style and shop today

Read MoreMar 11th 2020

Yohei Fukuda is one of the finest shoemakers in the world. And given his longevity - he set up on his own 12 years ago - he’s been at the forefront of Japan emerging as the primary world force in bespoke.  But like many Japanese, it's taken him a ...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: The style and shop today

Yohei Fukuda is one of the finest shoemakers in the world. And given his longevity - he set up on his own 12 years ago - he’s been at the forefront of Japan emerging as the primary world force in bespoke.  But like many Japanese, it's taken him a ...

Mar 11th 2020

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

Read MoreDec 21st 2016

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for those ateliers to push their o...

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for those ateliers to push their o...

Dec 21st 2016

Sasuke: Master Japanese knife-maker, Sakai, Osaka

Read MoreNov 21st 2016

When we were in Japan last month, Jamie and I tried to see a sprinkling of traditional Japanese craftsmen alongside the usual tailors and shoemakers.This was both for general interest (always interesting to see how things are made) and to note any...

Sasuke: Master Japanese knife-maker, Sakai, Osaka

When we were in Japan last month, Jamie and I tried to see a sprinkling of traditional Japanese craftsmen alongside the usual tailors and shoemakers.This was both for general interest (always interesting to see how things are made) and to note any...

Nov 21st 2016

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Read MoreFeb 20th 2019

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...

Feb 20th 2019

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai Kosuga

Read MoreApr 21st 2017

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well.Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of that, but there were also three ma...

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai Kosuga

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well.Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of that, but there were also three ma...

Apr 21st 2017

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreJan 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Jan 1st 2020

Cifonelli Japanese jacket

Read MoreDec 16th 2011

I love Lorenzo Cifonelli's constant innovation in his menswear designs. Some I like more than others, but I love the embroidery of the Japanese symbol for love on the lapel of this grey jacket. I'd go for a bit of subtle embroidery on a sports jacket...

Cifonelli Japanese jacket

I love Lorenzo Cifonelli's constant innovation in his menswear designs. Some I like more than others, but I love the embroidery of the Japanese symbol for love on the lapel of this grey jacket. I'd go for a bit of subtle embroidery on a sports jacket...

Dec 16th 2011

Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray

Read MoreAug 24th 2020

Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below), which produces the most extraordinary silks. It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovativ...

Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray

Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below), which produces the most extraordinary silks. It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovativ...

Aug 24th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

Read MoreSep 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad.  They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade.  The most rec...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad.  They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade.  The most rec...

Sep 7th 2020

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

Read MoreSep 22nd 2011

  You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it's alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by thos...

PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan

  You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it's alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by thos...

Sep 22nd 2011

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreMay 14th 2018

  Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its vibrancy and ...

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

  Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its vibrancy and ...

May 14th 2018

How to dress like Shuhei Nishiguchi (book on PS)

Read MoreApr 1st 2020

At Pitti back in January, Shuhei Nishiguchi - menswear director at Beams - kindly gave me a copy of his book, ‘Nishiguchi’s Closet’.  I liked it immediately. It rationalised a lot of the outfits I’d seen him wearing over the years, breaki...

How to dress like Shuhei Nishiguchi (book on PS)

At Pitti back in January, Shuhei Nishiguchi - menswear director at Beams - kindly gave me a copy of his book, ‘Nishiguchi’s Closet’.  I liked it immediately. It rationalised a lot of the outfits I’d seen him wearing over the years, breaki...

Apr 1st 2020

Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing

Read MoreJul 31st 2019

Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a buddhist and a philanthropist...

Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing

Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a buddhist and a philanthropist...

Jul 31st 2019

The evolution of Globe-Trotter

Read MoreApr 21st 2014

One of the most interesting things about visiting Globe-Trotter recently was learning how the company has evolved. Like most British brands, although old, its history is a chequered one – which is all the more reason to celebrate its current stabil...

The evolution of Globe-Trotter

One of the most interesting things about visiting Globe-Trotter recently was learning how the company has evolved. Like most British brands, although old, its history is a chequered one – which is all the more reason to celebrate its current stabil...

Apr 21st 2014

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

Read MoreJun 29th 2020

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way.  Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist (above) sen...

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way.  Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist (above) sen...

Jun 29th 2020