Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

Read MoreOct 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Oct 20th 2017

Musella Dembech: Growth at the 'soft Milanese' tailor

Read MoreOct 2nd 2017

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella, but I haven’t written anything exclusi...

Musella Dembech: Growth at the 'soft Milanese' tailor

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella, but I haven’t written anything exclusi...

Oct 2nd 2017

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Jun 14th 2019

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating a suit purely on emotion)

Read MoreFeb 2nd 2018

Best Artisan of the Year: Musella Dembech This award, readers may remember, is the only one of the Permanent Style Awards that will be decided purely by me. The overlap of readers that have used a bespoke artisan in 2017 is simply not enough, i...

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating a suit purely on emotion)

Best Artisan of the Year: Musella Dembech This award, readers may remember, is the only one of the Permanent Style Awards that will be decided purely by me. The overlap of readers that have used a bespoke artisan in 2017 is simply not enough, i...

Feb 2nd 2018

Musella Dembech - bespoke at home

Read MoreAug 20th 2014

 While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan.Mother, father and son all work in the same room, which is also part of their appartment. Although...

Musella Dembech - bespoke at home

 While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan.Mother, father and son all work in the same room, which is also part of their appartment. Although...

Aug 20th 2014

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Read MoreJun 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

Jun 20th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Read MoreJun 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

Jun 21st 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

Read MoreMay 17th 2016

Every Pitti Uomo for the past  two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world.For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

Every Pitti Uomo for the past  two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world.For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...

May 17th 2016

Milan: A sartorial city guide

Read MoreSep 16th 2015

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Milan: A sartorial city guide

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Sep 16th 2015

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

Read MoreJan 14th 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...

Jan 14th 2019

The dark shirt

Read MoreAug 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think.  It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman.  If done right, thoug...

The dark shirt

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think.  It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman.  If done right, thoug...

Aug 26th 2019

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutters)

Read MoreMay 8th 2020

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him?  Simple: never let him meet the customers.  I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most tailorin...

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutters)

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him?  Simple: never let him meet the customers.  I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most tailorin...

May 8th 2020

Update: the Trunk Show calendar

Read MoreDec 2nd 2016

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar, since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely some of the most discerning be...

Update: the Trunk Show calendar

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar, since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely some of the most discerning be...

Dec 2nd 2016

The summer tie

Read MoreAug 17th 2018

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

The summer tie

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

Aug 17th 2018

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Read MoreMar 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Mar 18th 2019

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Read MoreJul 1st 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician.  I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make.  The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible on...

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician.  I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make.  The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible on...

Jul 1st 2020

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

Read MoreJan 11th 2021

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

Jan 11th 2021

The T-shirt under tailoring

Read MoreMay 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

The T-shirt under tailoring

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

May 26th 2021

Brioni bespoke tailoring

Read MoreSep 22nd 2021

A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it.  Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it.  Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...

Sep 22nd 2021

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

Read MoreAug 29th 2022

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city.  The individual pieces should be pretty familiar:  cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Car...

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city.  The individual pieces should be pretty familiar:  cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Car...

Result only found in commentsAug 29th 2022

Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB

Read MoreMay 3rd 2023

Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years.  Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more style...

Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB

Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years.  Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more style...

Result only found in commentsMay 3rd 2023

My case for the lightweight English jacket

Read MoreFeb 9th 2024

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the unstruct...

My case for the lightweight English jacket

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the unstruct...

Result only found in commentsFeb 9th 2024

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Read MoreMar 11th 2024

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Result only found in commentsMar 11th 2024

Sartoria Vergallo, final suit

Read MoreMar 21st 2012

I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tailor....

Sartoria Vergallo, final suit

I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tailor....

Result only found in commentsMar 21st 2012