Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

Read MoreOct 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit - Review

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

Oct 20th 2017

Musella Dembech: Growth at the 'soft Milanese' tailor

Read MoreOct 2nd 2017

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella, but I haven’t written anything exclusi...

Musella Dembech: Growth at the 'soft Milanese' tailor

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella, but I haven’t written anything exclusi...

Oct 2nd 2017

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Jun 14th 2019

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating a suit purely on emotion)

Read MoreFeb 2nd 2018

Best Artisan of the Year: Musella Dembech This award, readers may remember, is the only one of the Permanent Style Awards that will be decided purely by me. The overlap of readers that have used a bespoke artisan in 2017 is simply not enough, i...

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating a suit purely on emotion)

Best Artisan of the Year: Musella Dembech This award, readers may remember, is the only one of the Permanent Style Awards that will be decided purely by me. The overlap of readers that have used a bespoke artisan in 2017 is simply not enough, i...

Feb 2nd 2018

Musella Dembech - bespoke at home

Read MoreAug 20th 2014

 While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan.Mother, father and son all work in the same room, which is also part of their appartment. Although...

Musella Dembech - bespoke at home

 While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan.Mother, father and son all work in the same room, which is also part of their appartment. Although...

Aug 20th 2014

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Read MoreJun 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

Jun 20th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Read MoreJun 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

Jun 21st 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

Read MoreMay 17th 2016

Every Pitti Uomo for the past  two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world.For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

Every Pitti Uomo for the past  two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world.For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...

May 17th 2016

Milan: A sartorial city guide

Read MoreSep 16th 2015

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Milan: A sartorial city guide

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Sep 16th 2015

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutters)

Read MoreMay 8th 2020

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him?  Simple: never let him meet the customers.  I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most tailorin...

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutters)

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him?  Simple: never let him meet the customers.  I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most tailorin...

May 8th 2020

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Update: the Trunk Show calendar

Read MoreDec 2nd 2016

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar, since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely some of the most discerning be...

Update: the Trunk Show calendar

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar, since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely some of the most discerning be...

Dec 2nd 2016

The dark shirt

Read MoreAug 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think.  It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman.  If done right, thoug...

The dark shirt

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think.  It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman.  If done right, thoug...

Aug 26th 2019

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

Read MoreJan 14th 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...

Jan 14th 2019

Brioni bespoke tailoring

Read MoreSep 22nd 2021

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review ...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review ...

Sep 22nd 2021

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Read MoreJul 1st 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician.  I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make.  The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible on...

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician.  I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make.  The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible on...

Jul 1st 2020

The T-shirt under tailoring

Read MoreMay 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

The T-shirt under tailoring

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

May 26th 2021

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

Read MoreJan 11th 2021

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to reflect in t...

Jan 11th 2021

The summer tie

Read MoreAug 17th 2018

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

The summer tie

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...

Aug 17th 2018

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Read MoreMar 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Mar 18th 2019

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

Read MoreNov 6th 2019

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure and...

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure and...

Result only found in commentsNov 6th 2019

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

Read MoreNov 30th 2020

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...

Result only found in commentsNov 30th 2020

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

Read MoreOct 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Result only found in commentsOct 10th 2016

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreFeb 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Result only found in commentsFeb 6th 2019

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3

Read MoreSep 18th 2013

The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3

The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...

Result only found in commentsSep 18th 2013