Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...
Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket
This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...
Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket
This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...
Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza, Italy
Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vincenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vincenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladian architecture and for the ...
Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza, Italy
Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vincenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vincenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladian architecture and for the ...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
If you only had five casual suits: A capsule collection
I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commonly used in recent decades, aft...
If you only had five casual suits: A capsule collection
I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commonly used in recent decades, aft...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure and...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure and...
The rules and how to break them 5: DBs for big men
Rule 5: Double-breasted suits add breadth, and so should only be worn by slim men. To reiterate the philosophy behind this series: All rules are there for a reason. They become rules because they have practical advantages. But there’s nothing wr...
The rules and how to break them 5: DBs for big men
Rule 5: Double-breasted suits add breadth, and so should only be worn by slim men. To reiterate the philosophy behind this series: All rules are there for a reason. They become rules because they have practical advantages. But there’s nothing wr...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...
Vitale Barberis Canonico
This past week I’ve been in Biella, visiting the lovely people at Vitale Barberis Canonico and researching a piece on Italian mills and bunches – a follow-up to the popular post on English mills. Barberis is going through something of a transitio...
Vitale Barberis Canonico
This past week I’ve been in Biella, visiting the lovely people at Vitale Barberis Canonico and researching a piece on Italian mills and bunches – a follow-up to the popular post on English mills. Barberis is going through something of a transitio...
Rota trousers
There’s no reason you would have heard of Rota, yet it is one of the best makers of trousers in Italy. A small, family-run company, it has been making nothing but trousers for the past 50 years – largely as a third-party manufacturer. The qualit...
Rota trousers
There’s no reason you would have heard of Rota, yet it is one of the best makers of trousers in Italy. A small, family-run company, it has been making nothing but trousers for the past 50 years – largely as a third-party manufacturer. The qualit...
Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers
OK, let's break this down. There are four major choices of colour here:Trousers: greenJacket: tanTie: brownShirt: blueI put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar with my love of ...
Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers
OK, let's break this down. There are four major choices of colour here:Trousers: greenJacket: tanTie: brownShirt: blueI put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar with my love of ...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, 'How to look after your suit'. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), and John Hitchcock (who cut ...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, 'How to look after your suit'. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), and John Hitchcock (who cut ...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account.Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pieces they are making and the thi...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account.Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pieces they are making and the thi...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was a...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was a...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are less res...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are less res...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts, navy twill and navy tebas
Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particularly pop...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts, navy twill and navy tebas
Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particularly pop...
The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB
This is the latest in a nice series of posts called 'The Rules and How to Break Them'. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here. You can navigate to that page by clicking on the 'Style' section of the...
The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB
This is the latest in a nice series of posts called 'The Rules and How to Break Them'. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here. You can navigate to that page by clicking on the 'Style' section of the...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...
What is authenticity?
I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘craft’ were popular, ‘authentic’ was often t...
What is authenticity?
I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘craft’ were popular, ‘authentic’ was often t...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
Living in a city, it’s easy to become reliant on Google Maps. After all, it will tell you not only where things are, but how to get there, which train is fastest, and the branches of Pret a Manger along on the way. Driving from Belfast to Donegal...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
Living in a city, it’s easy to become reliant on Google Maps. After all, it will tell you not only where things are, but how to get there, which train is fastest, and the branches of Pret a Manger along on the way. Driving from Belfast to Donegal...