Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1
This is the first post in what will be a series on having a double-breasted suit made at Henry Poole, in Prince of Wales cloth, as in Edward VII, but with the Duke of Windsor’s addition, originally from the Seafield estate, with the exclusive Henry...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 1
This is the first post in what will be a series on having a double-breasted suit made at Henry Poole, in Prince of Wales cloth, as in Edward VII, but with the Duke of Windsor’s addition, originally from the Seafield estate, with the exclusive Henry...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 9
The final part this, in the series on having a Prince of Wales suit made at Henry Poole. In the end we went with a 4x4 finish on the front, with grey buttons instead of brown. I decided 2x2 would be a little too flashy, but am experimenting with the ...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 9
The final part this, in the series on having a Prince of Wales suit made at Henry Poole. In the end we went with a 4x4 finish on the front, with grey buttons instead of brown. I decided 2x2 would be a little too flashy, but am experimenting with the ...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 5
First fitting this week on the Prince of Wales double-breasted suit being made at Henry Poole - in the Poole house check with characteristic burgundy overcheck. Craig Featherstone, who cut the suit, is joined here for the fitting by master cutter Ale...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 5
First fitting this week on the Prince of Wales double-breasted suit being made at Henry Poole - in the Poole house check with characteristic burgundy overcheck. Craig Featherstone, who cut the suit, is joined here for the fitting by master cutter Ale...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 3
The next stage in my Henry Poole double-breasted suit is the cutting (previous post, measuring, here), being done here by cutter Craig Featherstone. Henry Poole characterises itself as a house that tries to achieve ‘balance’ in the cut of a jacke...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 3
The next stage in my Henry Poole double-breasted suit is the cutting (previous post, measuring, here), being done here by cutter Craig Featherstone. Henry Poole characterises itself as a house that tries to achieve ‘balance’ in the cut of a jacke...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 7
This week was the second, forward fitting for this Henry Poole suit. The shape at the back is much improved since Craig and Alex ripped it apart last time – a nice compromise between hiding the shape of my back and highlighting my seat with too scu...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 7
This week was the second, forward fitting for this Henry Poole suit. The shape at the back is much improved since Craig and Alex ripped it apart last time – a nice compromise between hiding the shape of my back and highlighting my seat with too scu...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 2
The second post in the Henry Poole series, this illustrates the measuring being done by cutter Craig Featherstone – with Simon Cundey taking notes. (Previous post on the cloth is here.)Craig is refreshingly honest with his references to the various...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 2
The second post in the Henry Poole series, this illustrates the measuring being done by cutter Craig Featherstone – with Simon Cundey taking notes. (Previous post on the cloth is here.)Craig is refreshingly honest with his references to the various...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 6
An awful lot of handwork goes into a pair of trousers at Henry Poole. Here we see a few examples of that work, with a particular focus on attaching the curtain – the strip of cloth that runs around the inside of the waistband. Before we get to the ...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 6
An awful lot of handwork goes into a pair of trousers at Henry Poole. Here we see a few examples of that work, with a particular focus on attaching the curtain – the strip of cloth that runs around the inside of the waistband. Before we get to the ...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 4
This, the fourth part of the series looking at the making of a Henry Poole suit, examines the padding of a chest. It is being done here by apprentice James under the watchful eye of John Dryer.First, James takes the three parts of the canvassing (c...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 4
This, the fourth part of the series looking at the making of a Henry Poole suit, examines the padding of a chest. It is being done here by apprentice James under the watchful eye of John Dryer.First, James takes the three parts of the canvassing (c...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 8
A second forward fitting on the Henry Poole double-breasted last week, with Craig hoping that this would be ready to finish off and deliver. A few last tweaks were required, however. The chest still needed more clearing under the right arm, a problem...
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 8
A second forward fitting on the Henry Poole double-breasted last week, with Craig hoping that this would be ready to finish off and deliver. A few last tweaks were required, however. The chest still needed more clearing under the right arm, a problem...
Henry Poole and Aston Martin – innovative pockets
The inside pockets of a jacket can be fairly dull. I went through a phase of having the inbreast pockets made to perfectly fit my wallet (which is rather long) and my iPhone (which is rather narrow and short). But I never seemed to put the right one ...
Henry Poole and Aston Martin – innovative pockets
The inside pockets of a jacket can be fairly dull. I went through a phase of having the inbreast pockets made to perfectly fit my wallet (which is rather long) and my iPhone (which is rather narrow and short). But I never seemed to put the right one ...
Livery at Henry Poole
The way Keith tells it, in the late eighties the Royal Household had a decision to make. The livery of the Household and Royal Mews was in pretty poor shape. It had largely been made in 1902 (for the coronation of Edward VII), some had been remade in...
Livery at Henry Poole
The way Keith tells it, in the late eighties the Royal Household had a decision to make. The livery of the Household and Royal Mews was in pretty poor shape. It had largely been made in 1902 (for the coronation of Edward VII), some had been remade in...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth p...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth p...
Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown
A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Ande...
Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown
A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Ande...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth. That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth. That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was already ch...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was already ch...
The state of British manufacturing: A debate at Private White
Two weeks ago, I chaired a discussion in the Private White VC shop in Mayfair around the topic of British manufacturing.It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable such talks I’ve ever done. The speakers were great, with both young and old; style...
The state of British manufacturing: A debate at Private White
Two weeks ago, I chaired a discussion in the Private White VC shop in Mayfair around the topic of British manufacturing.It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable such talks I’ve ever done. The speakers were great, with both young and old; style...
The satisfaction of darning a sweater
I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...
The satisfaction of darning a sweater
I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...
Campbell's of Beauly: Keeping Scottish tradition alive
If someone were to tell you that there was an old tweed shop in the Scottish Highlands, Campbell’s of Beauly is exactly what you’d picture. An old stone building, worn wooden shelves, stacked with dozens of bolts. There are similar piles of twe...
Campbell's of Beauly: Keeping Scottish tradition alive
If someone were to tell you that there was an old tweed shop in the Scottish Highlands, Campbell’s of Beauly is exactly what you’d picture. An old stone building, worn wooden shelves, stacked with dozens of bolts. There are similar piles of twe...
London: A menswear shopping guide
In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write - I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. So if you want to know more about any of...
London: A menswear shopping guide
In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write - I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. So if you want to know more about any of...
James Weir: Style and the tailor
I first met James two years ago while following the making of my DB Prince of Wales suit at Henry Poole. (You can see that full series here.) As with most the Row’s apprentices, he has a passion for clothing that extends far beyond his day-to-day w...
James Weir: Style and the tailor
I first met James two years ago while following the making of my DB Prince of Wales suit at Henry Poole. (You can see that full series here.) As with most the Row’s apprentices, he has a passion for clothing that extends far beyond his day-to-day w...
How bespoke tailors work
Henry Poole cutter Craig Featherstone marks out my Prince-of-Wales suitLast week a reader asked me who the various people were in a bespoke tailoring house, and it occurred to me that this is one area I have never offered a guide to. So here goes.The...
How bespoke tailors work
Henry Poole cutter Craig Featherstone marks out my Prince-of-Wales suitLast week a reader asked me who the various people were in a bespoke tailoring house, and it occurred to me that this is one area I have never offered a guide to. So here goes.The...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...
Suit style 3: The double breasted
This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...
The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)
Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out the basic options, and my brief opinion...
The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)
Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out the basic options, and my brief opinion...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan
* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers are ...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan
* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers are ...
Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style
Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...
Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style
Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...