Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

Read MoreFeb 18th 2015

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Feb 18th 2015

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camps de Luca

Read MoreJan 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces.When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is ready...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camps de Luca

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces.When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is ready...

Jan 1st 2018

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bespoke

Read MoreJan 7th 2015

  Last year a reader commented - quite rightly - that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You alw...

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bespoke

  Last year a reader commented - quite rightly - that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You alw...

Jan 7th 2015

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

Read MoreOct 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Oct 13th 2021

Brioni bespoke tailoring

Read MoreSep 22nd 2021

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review ...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review ...

Sep 22nd 2021

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Read MoreMar 3rd 2021

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Mar 3rd 2021

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tailoring

Read MoreSep 18th 2020

Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in Walthamstow, north-east London. Their look is unusual and dramatic. It’s not something I’d personally wear, and I’d im...

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tailoring

Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in Walthamstow, north-east London. Their look is unusual and dramatic. It’s not something I’d personally wear, and I’d im...

Sep 18th 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke - and George VI's monkey jacket

Read MoreApr 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop.  I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly because o...

Benson & Clegg bespoke - and George VI's monkey jacket

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop.  I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly because o...

Apr 27th 2020

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

Read MoreJan 22nd 2021

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Jan 22nd 2021

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

Read MoreFeb 12th 2021

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Feb 12th 2021

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction and fitting

Read MoreJul 8th 2020

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought it would be good time to writ...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction and fitting

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought it would be good time to writ...

Jul 8th 2020

Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong

Read MoreMar 28th 2012

WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The ArmouryHi Simon,As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespoke until I got married last year. My first attempt was in ...

Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong

WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The ArmouryHi Simon,As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespoke until I got married last year. My first attempt was in ...

Mar 28th 2012

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

Read MoreFeb 17th 2010

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Feb 17th 2010

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? - Reader question

Read MoreAug 23rd 2013

Dear Simon,I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The lap...

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? - Reader question

Dear Simon,I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The lap...

Aug 23rd 2013

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

Read MoreOct 23rd 2015

  One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress.If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailoring in casual clothing, as well a...

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

  One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress.If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailoring in casual clothing, as well a...

Oct 23rd 2015

Bespoke suede jacket - Cifonelli

Read MoreMar 14th 2016

  This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from hand-cut line and structure...

Bespoke suede jacket - Cifonelli

  This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from hand-cut line and structure...

Mar 14th 2016

A bespoke tour of Paris - Corthay, Cifonelli, Charvet, Camps

Read MoreMar 4th 2014

Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.

A bespoke tour of Paris - Corthay, Cifonelli, Charvet, Camps

Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.

Mar 4th 2014

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 27th 2016

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Apr 27th 2016

Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto

Read MoreSep 3rd 2016

The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I met Ayres over the summer while in ...

Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto

The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I met Ayres over the summer while in ...

Sep 3rd 2016

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Read MoreSep 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Sep 20th 2017

Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?

Read MoreOct 10th 2014

 The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...

Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?

 The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...

Oct 10th 2014

Foster & Son bespoke shoe samples

Read MoreMay 21st 2014

Foster & Son is one of the great names of British bespoke shoemaking. In recent years, that reputation was largely founded on master lastmaker Terry Moore. I only got to know Foster’s relatively recently, after Terry retired. Changes of owners...

Foster & Son bespoke shoe samples

Foster & Son is one of the great names of British bespoke shoemaking. In recent years, that reputation was largely founded on master lastmaker Terry Moore. I only got to know Foster’s relatively recently, after Terry retired. Changes of owners...

May 21st 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

Read MoreJun 23rd 2014

 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader...

Five tips on bespoke suits

 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader...

Jun 23rd 2014

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

Read MoreMar 11th 2015

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Mar 11th 2015

Buying buttons for bespoke

Read MoreJan 6th 2010

Buttons are a subtle way to add personality to a suit, odd jacket or even overcoat. But it pays to keep them subtle. It’s easy enough to sew on a suit button, though I recommend experimenting with something inexpensive first. Just make sure you sec...

Buying buttons for bespoke

Buttons are a subtle way to add personality to a suit, odd jacket or even overcoat. But it pays to keep them subtle. It’s easy enough to sew on a suit button, though I recommend experimenting with something inexpensive first. Just make sure you sec...

Jan 6th 2010