Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

Read MoreFeb 18th 2015

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Feb 18th 2015

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camps de Luca

Read MoreJan 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces.When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is ready...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camps de Luca

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces.When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is ready...

Jan 1st 2018

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bespoke

Read MoreJan 7th 2015

  Last year a reader commented - quite rightly - that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You alw...

Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on bespoke

  Last year a reader commented - quite rightly - that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You alw...

Jan 7th 2015

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan

Read MoreApr 19th 2023

* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers are ...

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan

* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers are ...

Apr 19th 2023

Manish's five bespoke lessons: Working with a tailor

Read MoreNov 29th 2023

By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years.  In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production times, ...

Manish's five bespoke lessons: Working with a tailor

By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years.  In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production times, ...

Nov 29th 2023

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

Read MoreFeb 16th 2024

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesson...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesson...

Feb 16th 2024

Bespoke loafers with Seiji McCarthy: Commissioning and fitting 

Read MoreDec 15th 2023

In Japan earlier this year I started the process of commissioning a pair of bespoke loafers from Seiji McCarthy.  Loafers are often tricky to make bespoke, and bespoke as a whole I’ve found a little inconsistent, so why did I take this leap with S...

Bespoke loafers with Seiji McCarthy: Commissioning and fitting 

In Japan earlier this year I started the process of commissioning a pair of bespoke loafers from Seiji McCarthy.  Loafers are often tricky to make bespoke, and bespoke as a whole I’ve found a little inconsistent, so why did I take this leap with S...

Dec 15th 2023

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

Read MoreFeb 17th 2010

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Feb 17th 2010

Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong

Read MoreMar 28th 2012

WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The ArmouryHi Simon,As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespoke until I got married last year. My first attempt was in ...

Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong

WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The ArmouryHi Simon,As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespoke until I got married last year. My first attempt was in ...

Mar 28th 2012

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? - Reader question

Read MoreAug 23rd 2013

Dear Simon,I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The lap...

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? - Reader question

Dear Simon,I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The lap...

Aug 23rd 2013

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

Read MoreNov 14th 2018

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...

Nov 14th 2018

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

Read MoreJan 22nd 2021

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Jan 22nd 2021

How to buy my first bespoke suit - reader question

Read MoreFeb 3rd 2014

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one's life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I'm seeking your advi...

How to buy my first bespoke suit - reader question

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one's life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I'm seeking your advi...

Feb 3rd 2014

Brioni bespoke tailoring

Read MoreSep 22nd 2021

A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it.  Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it.  Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...

Sep 22nd 2021

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Read MoreSep 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Sep 20th 2017

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Read MoreMar 3rd 2021

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Mar 3rd 2021

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

Read MoreOct 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Oct 13th 2021

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 27th 2016

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Apr 27th 2016

Five tips on bespoke suits

Read MoreJun 23rd 2014

 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader...

Five tips on bespoke suits

 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader...

Jun 23rd 2014

Fitting a bespoke jacket - in de Le Cuona stone-washed linen

Read MoreJun 1st 2022

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself.  Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

Fitting a bespoke jacket - in de Le Cuona stone-washed linen

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself.  Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

Jun 1st 2022

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

Read MoreMar 11th 2015

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Bespoke Santoni shoes - Fatto a Mano Su Misura

 Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I'm happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoemaker we cov...

Mar 11th 2015

Simone Abbarchi - finished bespoke shirt

Read MoreJul 24th 2015

  It’s probably worth saying this once more. These images are merely indicative. They are intended to give a general impression of the shirt (a lovely grey from Simone Abbarchi). They are not intended to be the basis of an assessment of the fit.T...

Simone Abbarchi - finished bespoke shirt

  It’s probably worth saying this once more. These images are merely indicative. They are intended to give a general impression of the shirt (a lovely grey from Simone Abbarchi). They are not intended to be the basis of an assessment of the fit.T...

Jul 24th 2015

Maison Bourgeat - bespoke glasses, Paris

Read MoreJan 4th 2016

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management*    Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last year as a bespoke outfit, with...

Maison Bourgeat - bespoke glasses, Paris

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management*    Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last year as a bespoke outfit, with...

Jan 4th 2016

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

Read MoreFeb 12th 2021

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Feb 12th 2021

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

Read MoreJul 11th 2022

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too.  It's often used as a sign of ‘real’ bespok...

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too.  It's often used as a sign of ‘real’ bespok...

Jul 11th 2022