If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection

Read MoreSep 6th 2019

This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular - and now has its own dedicated Guide page here.  I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to decide whether to get that versatile pair of b...

If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection

This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular - and now has its own dedicated Guide page here.  I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to decide whether to get that versatile pair of b...

Sep 6th 2019

The Rake online

Read MoreMar 6th 2012

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week - indeed, twice a week - for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles.Recently we have had posts on:- Lor...

The Rake online

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week - indeed, twice a week - for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles.Recently we have had posts on:- Lor...

Mar 6th 2012

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring Symposium

Read MoreAug 19th 2015

  Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was perhaps the m...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring Symposium

  Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was perhaps the m...

Aug 19th 2015

New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the world's finest tailors

Read MoreOct 19th 2020

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time.  It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...

New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the world's finest tailors

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time.  It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...

Oct 19th 2020

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Reader profile: Ben

Read MoreDec 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and I hav...

Reader profile: Ben

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and I hav...

Dec 10th 2021

Remote, manufactured bespoke boots from Carreducker 

Read MoreJun 11th 2021

I've known Deborah Carré and James Ducker (below)for many years, having first covered their workshops when they were at Cockpit Arts (those pictures of me and Luke!), then the opening of their service at Gieves & Hawkes, and more recently tried ...

Remote, manufactured bespoke boots from Carreducker 

I've known Deborah Carré and James Ducker (below)for many years, having first covered their workshops when they were at Cockpit Arts (those pictures of me and Luke!), then the opening of their service at Gieves & Hawkes, and more recently tried ...

Jun 11th 2021

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

Read MoreMay 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes...

May 31st 2016

Scuola del Cuoio, Florence

Read MoreApr 3rd 2015

 Scuola del Cuoio, the Florentine leather manufacturer, has a great story. Most of the products may not be suited to Permanent Style, but the school is worth highlighting and the story worth telling. Scuola del Cuoio was founded in 1950 by the Fra...

Scuola del Cuoio, Florence

 Scuola del Cuoio, the Florentine leather manufacturer, has a great story. Most of the products may not be suited to Permanent Style, but the school is worth highlighting and the story worth telling. Scuola del Cuoio was founded in 1950 by the Fra...

Apr 3rd 2015

Tommaso

Read MoreJun 26th 2014

 This is our friend Tommaso Capozzoli. He is, among many other things, the sales manager for Stefano Bemer, and we usually stay with him when we’re in Florence. Tommaso has style. It is not loud, and it's unlikely to stand out at Pitti, but it is...

Tommaso

 This is our friend Tommaso Capozzoli. He is, among many other things, the sales manager for Stefano Bemer, and we usually stay with him when we’re in Florence. Tommaso has style. It is not loud, and it's unlikely to stand out at Pitti, but it is...

Jun 26th 2014

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

Read MoreJan 21st 2013

    Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by the...

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

    Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by the...

Jan 21st 2013

Summer: Tan, white and cream

Read MoreJun 30th 2014

Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...

Summer: Tan, white and cream

Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...

Jun 30th 2014

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

Read MoreJul 20th 2015

 At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a 'shirt' sleeve and patch pockets to make it casual enough to wear...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

 At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a 'shirt' sleeve and patch pockets to make it casual enough to wear...

Jul 20th 2015

The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 15th 2016

  The third in our Symposium series, looking at some of the finest makers of accessories in the world, was an absolute pleasure on Wednesday. I'll write more next week about the discussion and the broader event, but it was lovely to see how people...

The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo

  The third in our Symposium series, looking at some of the finest makers of accessories in the world, was an absolute pleasure on Wednesday. I'll write more next week about the discussion and the broader event, but it was lovely to see how people...

Jan 15th 2016

Change your laces

Read MoreMay 25th 2015

  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produ...

Change your laces

  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produ...

May 25th 2015

The Friday Polos are back in stock

Read MoreFeb 6th 2017

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back in stock, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey. You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes section. We dropped w...

The Friday Polos are back in stock

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back in stock, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey. You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes section. We dropped w...

Feb 6th 2017

Reflections on Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 13th 2012

Pitti is a beautifully set-out trade fair full of brands I love, exhibiting on often lovely stands. But it is still a trade fair.This is a place for sales and negotiation. Friends such as Mats at Trunk Clothiers, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe or Kirby ...

Reflections on Pitti Uomo

Pitti is a beautifully set-out trade fair full of brands I love, exhibiting on often lovely stands. But it is still a trade fair.This is a place for sales and negotiation. Friends such as Mats at Trunk Clothiers, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe or Kirby ...

Jan 13th 2012

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

Read MoreOct 7th 2013

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleasure of travelling to the city. I think New...

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleasure of travelling to the city. I think New...

Oct 7th 2013

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

Read MoreApr 10th 2013

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Apr 10th 2013

BeShoes: The shoe symposium at Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 16th 2015

 At one point in the evening, I introduced John Carnera to Pierre Corthay. These two titans of bespoke shoemaking - and gentlemen both - yet of course they had never met. Later, at the Villa Cora party, it was introducing Edward Sexton to Luca Rubin...

BeShoes: The shoe symposium at Pitti Uomo

 At one point in the evening, I introduced John Carnera to Pierre Corthay. These two titans of bespoke shoemaking - and gentlemen both - yet of course they had never met. Later, at the Villa Cora party, it was introducing Edward Sexton to Luca Rubin...

Jan 16th 2015

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

Read MoreApr 25th 2016

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers.?...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers.?...

Apr 25th 2016

The Tailors Symposium, at Pitti this June

Read MoreJun 2nd 2015

 Next month, on June 17th, we will be holding a follow-up to our shoemakers event at Pitti in January. This time we are focusing on the best tailors in the world, and I'm proud to say that we will have Cifonelli, Anderson & Sheppard, Panico, Li...

The Tailors Symposium, at Pitti this June

 Next month, on June 17th, we will be holding a follow-up to our shoemakers event at Pitti in January. This time we are focusing on the best tailors in the world, and I'm proud to say that we will have Cifonelli, Anderson & Sheppard, Panico, Li...

Jun 2nd 2015

Permanent Style event: BeShoes

Read MoreDec 22nd 2014

 At the next Pitti Uomo in January I am organising a shoe symposium, together with Stefano Bemer and Bespoke magazine, with the intention of showcasing the work of some of the best men's shoemakers in the world. We will have Cleverley, Corthay, Bes...

Permanent Style event: BeShoes

 At the next Pitti Uomo in January I am organising a shoe symposium, together with Stefano Bemer and Bespoke magazine, with the intention of showcasing the work of some of the best men's shoemakers in the world. We will have Cleverley, Corthay, Bes...

Dec 22nd 2014

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 27th 2016

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Apr 27th 2016

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Read MoreJun 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

Jun 19th 2019