Memories of Edward Sexton 

Read MoreJul 28th 2023

Edward Sexton, the English bespoke tailor, sadly passed away this week. We were, as many readers will know, supposed to be holding a talk with Edward this past Spring, but his health has been poor for a while and that was postponed.  In preparation ...

Memories of Edward Sexton 

Edward Sexton, the English bespoke tailor, sadly passed away this week. We were, as many readers will know, supposed to be holding a talk with Edward this past Spring, but his health has been poor for a while and that was postponed.  In preparation ...

Jul 28th 2023

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

Read MoreFeb 22nd 2021

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why?  I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch.  W...

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why?  I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch.  W...

Feb 22nd 2021

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreJan 13th 2021

Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm.  Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made.  This can put more pressure on bes...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review

Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm.  Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made.  This can put more pressure on bes...

Jan 13th 2021

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

Read MoreMay 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes...

May 31st 2016

Tommaso

Read MoreJun 26th 2014

 This is our friend Tommaso Capozzoli. He is, among many other things, the sales manager for Stefano Bemer, and we usually stay with him when we’re in Florence. Tommaso has style. It is not loud, and it's unlikely to stand out at Pitti, but it is...

Tommaso

 This is our friend Tommaso Capozzoli. He is, among many other things, the sales manager for Stefano Bemer, and we usually stay with him when we’re in Florence. Tommaso has style. It is not loud, and it's unlikely to stand out at Pitti, but it is...

Jun 26th 2014

Reflections on Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 13th 2012

Pitti is a beautifully set-out trade fair full of brands I love, exhibiting on often lovely stands. But it is still a trade fair.This is a place for sales and negotiation. Friends such as Mats at Trunk Clothiers, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe or Kirby ...

Reflections on Pitti Uomo

Pitti is a beautifully set-out trade fair full of brands I love, exhibiting on often lovely stands. But it is still a trade fair.This is a place for sales and negotiation. Friends such as Mats at Trunk Clothiers, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe or Kirby ...

Jan 13th 2012

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

Read MoreOct 7th 2013

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleasure of travelling to the city. I think New...

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleasure of travelling to the city. I think New...

Oct 7th 2013

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

Read MoreJan 21st 2013

    Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by the...

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

    Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by the...

Jan 21st 2013

Summer: Tan, white and cream

Read MoreJun 30th 2014

Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...

Summer: Tan, white and cream

Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...

Jun 30th 2014

Scuola del Cuoio, Florence

Read MoreApr 3rd 2015

 Scuola del Cuoio, the Florentine leather manufacturer, has a great story. Most of the products may not be suited to Permanent Style, but the school is worth highlighting and the story worth telling. Scuola del Cuoio was founded in 1950 by the Fra...

Scuola del Cuoio, Florence

 Scuola del Cuoio, the Florentine leather manufacturer, has a great story. Most of the products may not be suited to Permanent Style, but the school is worth highlighting and the story worth telling. Scuola del Cuoio was founded in 1950 by the Fra...

Apr 3rd 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

Read MoreJul 20th 2015

 At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a 'shirt' sleeve and patch pockets to make it casual enough to wear...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

 At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a 'shirt' sleeve and patch pockets to make it casual enough to wear...

Jul 20th 2015

The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 15th 2016

  The third in our Symposium series, looking at some of the finest makers of accessories in the world, was an absolute pleasure on Wednesday. I'll write more next week about the discussion and the broader event, but it was lovely to see how people...

The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo

  The third in our Symposium series, looking at some of the finest makers of accessories in the world, was an absolute pleasure on Wednesday. I'll write more next week about the discussion and the broader event, but it was lovely to see how people...

Jan 15th 2016

The Friday Polos are back in stock

Read MoreFeb 6th 2017

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back in stock, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey. You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes section. We dropped w...

The Friday Polos are back in stock

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back in stock, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey. You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes section. We dropped w...

Feb 6th 2017

Tonal dressing - with new Indulgent Shawl Cardigan

Read MoreJan 21st 2022

Our Indulgent Shawl Cardigan doesn’t need much introduction.  Indeed, since this new grey colour was released to the waiting list yesterday, half have already sold. Quite a list had built up. Thank you everyone for your patience, and for riding ou...

Tonal dressing - with new Indulgent Shawl Cardigan

Our Indulgent Shawl Cardigan doesn’t need much introduction.  Indeed, since this new grey colour was released to the waiting list yesterday, half have already sold. Quite a list had built up. Thank you everyone for your patience, and for riding ou...

Jan 21st 2022

Change your laces

Read MoreMay 25th 2015

  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produ...

Change your laces

  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. They produ...

May 25th 2015

BeShoes: The shoe symposium at Pitti Uomo

Read MoreJan 16th 2015

 At one point in the evening, I introduced John Carnera to Pierre Corthay. These two titans of bespoke shoemaking - and gentlemen both - yet of course they had never met. Later, at the Villa Cora party, it was introducing Edward Sexton to Luca Rubin...

BeShoes: The shoe symposium at Pitti Uomo

 At one point in the evening, I introduced John Carnera to Pierre Corthay. These two titans of bespoke shoemaking - and gentlemen both - yet of course they had never met. Later, at the Villa Cora party, it was introducing Edward Sexton to Luca Rubin...

Jan 16th 2015

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreJan 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Jan 1st 2020

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Read MoreJun 15th 2022

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing.  The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing.  The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...

Jun 15th 2022

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 27th 2016

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Apr 27th 2016

Permanent Style event: BeShoes

Read MoreDec 22nd 2014

 At the next Pitti Uomo in January I am organising a shoe symposium, together with Stefano Bemer and Bespoke magazine, with the intention of showcasing the work of some of the best men's shoemakers in the world. We will have Cleverley, Corthay, Bes...

Permanent Style event: BeShoes

 At the next Pitti Uomo in January I am organising a shoe symposium, together with Stefano Bemer and Bespoke magazine, with the intention of showcasing the work of some of the best men's shoemakers in the world. We will have Cleverley, Corthay, Bes...

Dec 22nd 2014

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

Read MoreApr 25th 2016

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers.?...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers.?...

Apr 25th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Read MoreJun 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

Jun 21st 2016

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

Read MoreApr 10th 2013

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Apr 10th 2013

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the beauty of refinement)

Read MoreSep 23rd 2016

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three different shades of grey. Every...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the beauty of refinement)

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three different shades of grey. Every...

Sep 23rd 2016

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Read MoreJun 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

Jun 19th 2019