Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vintage ones. But sinc...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vintage ones. But sinc...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth. That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 - featuring Anglo-Italian
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth. That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake [Gr...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Caccioppoli...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Caccioppoli...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to se...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to se...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale ...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale ...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granata, Marol, Baudoin & Lange
Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where yo...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granata, Marol, Baudoin & Lange
Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where yo...
Summer checked jacket - at the Dalcuore Rakishman day
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in time for Pi...
Summer checked jacket - at the Dalcuore Rakishman day
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in time for Pi...
The best shoes for summer
When the temperatures rise, one of the most uncomfortable things can be your shoes – particularly when dressing informally.The key to keeping cool is to have light, preferably unlined shoes, and wear them without full socks wherever possible.The ...
The best shoes for summer
When the temperatures rise, one of the most uncomfortable things can be your shoes – particularly when dressing informally.The key to keeping cool is to have light, preferably unlined shoes, and wear them without full socks wherever possible.The ...
How to dress pale colours for summer
A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits of style...
How to dress pale colours for summer
A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits of style...
The summer tie
I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...
The summer tie
I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds ...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. I'd suggest that of those brig...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. I'd suggest that of those brig...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Connolly and Luca
With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept t...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Connolly and Luca
With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept t...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
This is perhaps best seen as an exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers, both in colour and texture. The starting point is the...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
This is perhaps best seen as an exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers, both in colour and texture. The starting point is the...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...
Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018
“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially from Spain, Italy and German...
Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018
“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially from Spain, Italy and German...
Summer: Tan, white and cream
Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...
Summer: Tan, white and cream
Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK.Combining more than one white – or cream – t...
Sage green and tobacco brown - earthy summer
Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative aspects of dress. Particul...
Sage green and tobacco brown - earthy summer
Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative aspects of dress. Particul...
Variations on the summer dinner jacket
The Burma shade summer dinner jacketEsquire, August 1936: "The old summer formal combination of blue jacket and white flannels got the gong because of its obvious incongruity with summer evening dresses. "Hence the white dinner jacket was welcomed wi...
Variations on the summer dinner jacket
The Burma shade summer dinner jacketEsquire, August 1936: "The old summer formal combination of blue jacket and white flannels got the gong because of its obvious incongruity with summer evening dresses. "Hence the white dinner jacket was welcomed wi...
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s (or, what is heritage summer?)
Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was what I ended up talking about ...
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s (or, what is heritage summer?)
Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was what I ended up talking about ...
Monocle Summer Fayre and Trunk Labs
At the Monocle Summer Fayre this weekend. Monocle’s quirky and intelligent selection of partners and products was on display, as well as some rather fetching goats. It was also the opening day of Trunk Labs: a new branch of Trunk Clothiers a few do...
Monocle Summer Fayre and Trunk Labs
At the Monocle Summer Fayre this weekend. Monocle’s quirky and intelligent selection of partners and products was on display, as well as some rather fetching goats. It was also the opening day of Trunk Labs: a new branch of Trunk Clothiers a few do...
Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling Fresco
A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...
Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling Fresco
A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...
No Symposium this summer. (Boooo!)
We'll be taking a break from the Symposium series of talks this summer, because frankly the Style Guide and the Savile Row pop-up have just been too much. And there's another dinner to come. So I can finally enjoy an instalment of Pitti without hav...
No Symposium this summer. (Boooo!)
We'll be taking a break from the Symposium series of talks this summer, because frankly the Style Guide and the Savile Row pop-up have just been too much. And there's another dinner to come. So I can finally enjoy an instalment of Pitti without hav...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the difference, ...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the difference, ...