Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes

Read MoreMar 28th 2016

  Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been largely, but not entirely successf...

Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes

  Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been largely, but not entirely successf...

Mar 28th 2016

Davide Taub joins Gieves & Hawkes

Read MoreFeb 22nd 2012

Davide Taub left Maurice Sedwell a few weeks ago to become senior cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. He replaces Kathryn Sargent, who left at the beginning of the year to set up on her own with a board over at Meyer & Mortimer.I know Davide relatively well f...

Davide Taub joins Gieves & Hawkes

Davide Taub left Maurice Sedwell a few weeks ago to become senior cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. He replaces Kathryn Sargent, who left at the beginning of the year to set up on her own with a board over at Meyer & Mortimer.I know Davide relatively well f...

Feb 22nd 2012

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

Read MoreAug 28th 2015

  Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013, and the pea coat in 2014.?...

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

  Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013, and the pea coat in 2014.?...

Aug 28th 2015

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes

Read MoreMay 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...

May 27th 2019

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

Read MoreDec 5th 2012

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Dec 5th 2012

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Read MoreJun 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

The Young Tailors Symposium - filming on the roof

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We trie...

Jun 20th 2016

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

Read MoreJul 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

Jul 11th 2013

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreAug 19th 2020

Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades.  Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters.  Kathryn Sa...

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades.  Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters.  Kathryn Sa...

Aug 19th 2020

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Read MoreJun 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

The Young Tailors Symposium - discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion.The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields before...

Jun 21st 2016

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

Read MoreJul 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Jul 17th 2019

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

Read MoreApr 26th 2013

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-head cutter alongside Lee Webb....

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke

Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-head cutter alongside Lee Webb....

Apr 26th 2013

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

Read MoreFeb 21st 2018

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

Feb 21st 2018

Permanent Style dinner: The Gathering

Read MoreApr 16th 2015

 These are the first pictures from our first Permanent Style dinner, which was co-hosted with Essence Lifestyle on Monday at Club Cafe Royal - part of a series we are creating called The Gathering.It was a really lovely event, bringing together so...

Permanent Style dinner: The Gathering

 These are the first pictures from our first Permanent Style dinner, which was co-hosted with Essence Lifestyle on Monday at Club Cafe Royal - part of a series we are creating called The Gathering.It was a really lovely event, bringing together so...

Apr 16th 2015

How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket

Read MoreSep 28th 2015

   The 'How Great Things Age' series celebrates and examines how quality menswear ages over time. Often, it becomes more beautiful, though different materials from leather to cotton to board age in very different ways.  The last two we featured ...

How great things age: Bespoke leather jacket

   The 'How Great Things Age' series celebrates and examines how quality menswear ages over time. Often, it becomes more beautiful, though different materials from leather to cotton to board age in very different ways.  The last two we featured ...

Sep 28th 2015

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

Read MoreDec 2nd 2015

  A round-up of different notices today - three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter's lead journal story last week - featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in London. We gathered together...

Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London

  A round-up of different notices today - three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter's lead journal story last week - featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in London. We gathered together...

Dec 2nd 2015

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

Read MoreDec 9th 2019

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...

Dec 9th 2019

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Read MoreJul 13th 2020

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

Jul 13th 2020

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

Read MoreFeb 12th 2021

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan suit

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character....

Feb 12th 2021

The bespoke pea coat - Part 1

Read MoreNov 6th 2013

    A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August.   This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I liked the way our le...

The bespoke pea coat - Part 1

    A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August.   This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I liked the way our le...

Nov 6th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

Read MoreJul 19th 2013

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide has since altered that, so he was fa...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide has since altered that, so he was fa...

Jul 19th 2013

The bespoke pea coat - Part 3

Read MoreJul 24th 2014

 The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett) at...

The bespoke pea coat - Part 3

 The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett) at...

Jul 24th 2014

The bespoke pea coat - Part 4

Read MoreDec 1st 2014

 Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get them (such as the Stefano Bem...

The bespoke pea coat - Part 4

 Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get them (such as the Stefano Bem...

Dec 1st 2014

The BTBA summer party

Read MoreJul 8th 2013

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins.  Three Anderson & Sheppard employee...

The BTBA summer party

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins.  Three Anderson & Sheppard employee...

Jul 8th 2013

Denim and tailoring

Read MoreOct 31st 2014

 The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, howev...

Denim and tailoring

 The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, howev...

Oct 31st 2014