How my style has changed over 15 years
A few readers have asked recently how my style has changed in the time of writing PS. Here’s an attempt to summarise how I see it today, with a good many links to other articles to flesh out the points. First, there are a few different causes, wh...
How my style has changed over 15 years
A few readers have asked recently how my style has changed in the time of writing PS. Here’s an attempt to summarise how I see it today, with a good many links to other articles to flesh out the points. First, there are a few different causes, wh...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel ...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel ...
Reintroducing: The Finest Crewneck (and new Dartmoor)
This feels almost nostalgic. The 'finest knitwear' was one of the first proper collaborations we did, six years ago, with the amazing Umbria Verde in Italy. We discontinued it because I wanted to focus on collared knits and cardigans - the Dartmoor...
Reintroducing: The Finest Crewneck (and new Dartmoor)
This feels almost nostalgic. The 'finest knitwear' was one of the first proper collaborations we did, six years ago, with the amazing Umbria Verde in Italy. We discontinued it because I wanted to focus on collared knits and cardigans - the Dartmoor...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, of co...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, of co...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi. I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place; flannel...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi. I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place; flannel...
If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers
I began the companion piece to this one - looking at smart trousers - by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series. I was right. I thought this one would be harder, but it’s not. The problem with going fr...
If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers
I began the companion piece to this one - looking at smart trousers - by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series. I was right. I thought this one would be harder, but it’s not. The problem with going fr...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...
Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out
I’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually the collar is the issue - this is a retro ma...
Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out
I’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually the collar is the issue - this is a retro ma...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the difference, ...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the difference, ...
Reader Profile: Jeff
Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly me...
Reader Profile: Jeff
Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly me...
La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade
By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into a glass in front of me. “One da...
La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade
By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into a glass in front of me. “One da...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the knitwe...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the knitwe...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour: Review
There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour: Review
There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat
About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a really stylish but understated, ...
Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat
About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a really stylish but understated, ...
Rolling shirt sleeves
An area we rarely talk about in menswear is how we wear clothes, rather than which ones we choose. Buttoning shirts, wearing collars up, belting trench coats and so on. I know, it’s classic overthinking. No one needs to be told how to roll their sl...
Rolling shirt sleeves
An area we rarely talk about in menswear is how we wear clothes, rather than which ones we choose. Buttoning shirts, wearing collars up, belting trench coats and so on. I know, it’s classic overthinking. No one needs to be told how to roll their sl...
Reader profile: David E
David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...
Reader profile: David E
David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...
My new watch: Why I bought a seventies Speedmaster
Back in August, I wrote an article with some reflections on my watch collection, and mentioned that I was thinking of replacing my IWC Portugieser with a steel sports watch. I also asked horologically minded readers what their suggestions might be. ...
My new watch: Why I bought a seventies Speedmaster
Back in August, I wrote an article with some reflections on my watch collection, and mentioned that I was thinking of replacing my IWC Portugieser with a steel sports watch. I also asked horologically minded readers what their suggestions might be. ...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry pick...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry pick...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020. It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020. It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...
How to avoid getting burnt out
It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being refreshing and exciting, the reaction is...
How to avoid getting burnt out
It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being refreshing and exciting, the reaction is...
Talon zips and velvet chandeliers: The Real McCoy's headquarters in Kobe, Japan
The Real McCoy's headquarters in Kobe, Japan is extraordinary. I had been warned it would be, but it really didn't prepare me for the scale of the operation or for the mix of craft and eccentricity. The company owns four warehouses in the port of...
Talon zips and velvet chandeliers: The Real McCoy's headquarters in Kobe, Japan
The Real McCoy's headquarters in Kobe, Japan is extraordinary. I had been warned it would be, but it really didn't prepare me for the scale of the operation or for the mix of craft and eccentricity. The company owns four warehouses in the port of...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and the end of the Spanis...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and the end of the Spanis...
The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street, outside Florence
I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made. It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morning a...
The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street, outside Florence
I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made. It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morning a...