Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - first fitting

Read MoreDec 11th 2015

    I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me two suits - one put together in Che...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - first fitting

    I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me two suits - one put together in Che...

Dec 11th 2015

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Read MoreJan 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Jan 16th 2019

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Read MoreJun 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jun 10th 2020

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - foreign bespoke

Read MoreOct 19th 2015

If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. An interesting option is to have the bespoke cu...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury - foreign bespoke

If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. An interesting option is to have the bespoke cu...

Oct 19th 2015

The perfect wedding suit

Read MoreMay 22nd 2017

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. Pale grey is suitably serious...

The perfect wedding suit

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. Pale grey is suitably serious...

May 22nd 2017

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

Read MoreMar 29th 2016

  Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks - in New York for three days and then Los Angeles for one. The details are:N...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

  Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks - in New York for three days and then Los Angeles for one. The details are:N...

Mar 29th 2016

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Read MoreMar 3rd 2021

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels ...

Mar 3rd 2021

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

Read MoreJul 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Jul 17th 2019

Reader profile: Sebastian

Read MoreNov 24th 2023

Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar to t...

Reader profile: Sebastian

Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar to t...

Nov 24th 2023

How my jacket style has changed

Read MoreNov 12th 2021

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

How my jacket style has changed

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

Nov 12th 2021

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and proportions

Read MoreApr 30th 2018

  One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser openin...

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and proportions

  One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser openin...

Apr 30th 2018

The guide to worsted suitings

Read MoreOct 31st 2016

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar.  If we leave aside the more aesthetic - and subjective areas - of colour and pattern, we are left with dozens of similar-looking suiti...

The guide to worsted suitings

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar.  If we leave aside the more aesthetic - and subjective areas - of colour and pattern, we are left with dozens of similar-looking suiti...

Oct 31st 2016

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

Read MoreApr 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Apr 18th 2018

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

Read MoreJul 12th 2021

*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gi...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gi...

Jul 12th 2021

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

Read MoreJan 22nd 2021

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Edward Sexton 'offshore bespoke' tailoring

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being offere...

Jan 22nd 2021

Hopsack and linen trousers - in humid Hong Kong

Read MoreMay 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and t...

Hopsack and linen trousers - in humid Hong Kong

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and t...

May 21st 2018

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

Read MoreMar 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

Mar 9th 2022

Wearing navy trousers as separates

Read MoreDec 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons.  First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have trousers fr...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons.  First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have trousers fr...

Dec 20th 2019

Why I'm wearing more belts

Read MoreJan 5th 2022

In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all.  I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors.  And I didn’t even wear them with ...

Why I'm wearing more belts

In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all.  I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors.  And I didn’t even wear them with ...

Jan 5th 2022

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

Read MoreJan 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smarter, more important and more f...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smarter, more important and more f...

Jan 26th 2017

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

Read MoreFeb 9th 2018

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean outfit B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end result isn’t too bad (just a cou...

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean outfit B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end result isn’t too bad (just a cou...

Feb 9th 2018

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

Read MoreJan 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age.  The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age.  The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Jan 13th 2020

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

Read MoreAug 25th 2021

Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive.  As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive.  As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...

Aug 25th 2021

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

Read MoreJul 16th 2018

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesbury); we have tailors set...

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesbury); we have tailors set...

Jul 16th 2018

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

Read MoreFeb 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and blue strip...

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and blue strip...

Feb 8th 2019