Dunhill bespoke velvet blazer

Martin Nicholls
, the cutter at Dunhill in London, has had a fascinating career. Trained at Huntsman under Hammick and Hall, he worked at Gieves and Norton’s, headed up the bespoke department at Harrod’s, and launched Hackett’s bespoke offering on the Row. 

It’s hard today to imagine either of the last two having a bespoke department. Indeed, Martin’s career demonstrates what short memories we often have, and yet how quick we are to jump to conclusions about the death of the industry. 

Dunhill are investing a good deal more in bespoke tailoring – they’ve had an offering for a long time, but Martin only moved on site at Bourdon House a few months ago. It also follows the introduction of bespoke leather goods with our friend Tomasz, of course. 

You can read more about Martin and Dunhill in my most recent column for How to Spend It, which gave a little depth to the magazine’s charity auction of bespoke and made-to-measure suits. 

Above: model wearing Dunhill’s entry for the auction

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It’s a testament to quality (and the infectious English quality of stubborn-mindedness) that the industry has endured.

I think that’s what attracts the paying customer in these austere times. Value trumps cheapness.


Simon: not sure you knew this, but Dunhill in NYC used to have a highly regarded bespoke offering until just a few years ago. Bruno Cosentino was the head tailor there, and he retired in 2011.


Simon, is Martin Nicholls still the Cutter at Dunhill?



Can anyone give me an update on Dunhill bespoke and MTM in 2020 ? Is bespoke still onsite at Bourdon House ? Who is the cutter ?

Also, is their MTM of good quality ? Is it outsourced, if so to where ?

I’m a fan of Dunhill in general, and of Bourdon House, but have never met anyone who has had anything made there, bespoke or MTM, so would love to,hear feedback.

Thanks in advance