The guide to overcoating cloths

December 17th 2018

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As...

The guide to overcoating cloths

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are n...

Cloth - OvercoatsDecember 17th 2018

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

October 19th 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably...

Cloth - October 19th 2018

The guide to cashmere and precious fibres

October 1st 2018

Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Eduardo de Simone) and it’...

The guide to cashmere and precious fibres

Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Ed...

Cloth - JacketsOctober 1st 2018

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

August 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. It will continue to be added to over the next few ...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Cloth - SuitsAugust 10th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers ...

ClothJune 15th 2018

The Guide to Linen

May 28th 2018

Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal feels cool for the same re...

The Guide to Linen

Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal ...

ClothMay 28th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide woul...

ClothApril 16th 2018

The Guide to Tweed

April 2nd 2018

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey worsted trousers and button-dow...

The Guide to Tweed

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey w...

ClothApril 2nd 2018

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

February 12th 2018

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill.   ...

Cloth - TrousersFebruary 12th 2018

The Guide to Flannel

December 18th 2017

A couple of years ago, a friend asked me for advice on dressing down his normal suit-and-tie wardrobe. Like many men, he wore suits (in worsted wool) to the office, and jeans or chinos at the weekend. The office was becoming more casual, however, and...

The Guide to Flannel

A couple of years ago, a friend asked me for advice on dressing down his normal suit-and-tie wardrobe. Like many men, he wore suits (in worsted wool) to the office, and jeans or chinos at the weekend. The office was beco...

ClothDecember 18th 2017

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

September 11th 2017

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up most of the city block and c...

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up mo...

Cloth - TailoringSeptember 11th 2017

The guide to summer jacket cloths

July 24th 2017

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are les...

The guide to summer jacket cloths

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 24th 2017

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while everyday suits and jackets are ma...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while e...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai ...

April 21st 2017

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well. Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of that, but there were also three ...

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai ...

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well. Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of th...

Accessories - ClothApril 21st 2017

Superfines: The story of refining wool

March 9th 2017

Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti – director of the ‘O Mast’ film among other things   There was a ti...

Superfines: The story of refining wool

Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti – director of the ‘O Mast’ film among other things   ...

Cloth - TailoringMarch 9th 2017

Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in the...

March 3rd 2017

Shop update: Sartoria Solito and Luca Avitabile shirts will be in the shop today and tomorrow for a trunk show. They're pretty full already, but if you want to try and make an appointment, please contact l.a.shirtmaker@gmail.com or luigisolito@yaho...

Fox Brothers vintage cloth – available in the...

Shop update: Sartoria Solito and Luca Avitabile shirts will be in the shop today and tomorrow for a trunk show.  They're pretty full already, but if you want to try and make an appointment, please contact l.a.shirtmake...

Cloth - TailoringMarch 3rd 2017

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

January 27th 2017

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about. To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts and counting) it's nice to work on...

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about.  To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts a...

ClothJanuary 27th 2017

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

January 23rd 2017

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When we describe the benefits of ga...

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When ...

ClothJanuary 23rd 2017

The A-Z of cloth

November 11th 2016

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing. This took a lot of wor...

The A-Z of cloth

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and fini...

ClothNovember 11th 2016

The guide to worsted suitings

October 31st 2016

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar. If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are left with dozens of sim...

The guide to worsted suitings

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar.  If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are ...

Cloth - October 31st 2016

The guide to jacketings

October 17th 2016

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what should a man wear? Why doesn’...

The guide to jacketings

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what shoul...

Cloth - TailoringOctober 17th 2016

Sartoria Pirozzi at E Marinella, and the ‘thr...

October 3rd 2016

The amount of good soft-tailoring in London seems to increase by the month. And not just because people decide to start travelling: sometimes I just miss them. Nunzio Pirozzi has been travelling to the E Marinella store on Maddox Street for several ...

Sartoria Pirozzi at E Marinella, and the ‘thr...

The amount of good soft-tailoring in London seems to increase by the month. And not just because people decide to start travelling: sometimes I just miss them. Nunzio Pirozzi has been travelling to the E Marinella stor...

Cloth - Finding a tailorOctober 3rd 2016

The basics of selecting cloth

September 28th 2016

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of cloth and tried to imagine what i...

The basics of selecting cloth

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of cloth a...

ClothSeptember 28th 2016