Making shoes for King Charles: Tony Gaziano video

May 15th 2024

Forgive me for leading with the story of the shoes Gaziano & Girling made for His Majesty Charles III. It isn't the main thing we discussed in this interview with Tony Gaziano, but I know it will be the one that gets the most attention. That...

Making shoes for King Charles: Tony Gaziano video

Match in comments:
I second Simon here, I checked several UK and IT balance sheets, none are making more money that before, quite the opposite....

Shoes - VideoMay 15th 2024

How to pack for a week-long trip: Video

April 29th 2024

This is the second of two videos we made recently talking through what to pack for travel. The first suggested clothes for a three-day trip - basically wearing one outfit and packing another, but with every piece interchangeable. This second one exp...

How to pack for a week-long trip: Video

Match in comments:
Ah brilliant, thanks. And what about the light blue shirt in the video - is it denim or oxford (I can’t quite tell)?...

Bags - VideoApril 29th 2024

How to pack for a three-day trip: Video

March 4th 2024

The ' travel capsule' posts we've done are always popular - I think because they are useful for actual travel, but also for anyone looking to build a versatile wardrobe in general. In that way they're one more addition to the 'wardrobe building' ser...

How to pack for a three-day trip: Video

Match in comments:
I did one on travelling to Japan in the summer here that you might find useful. Also if you search for the 'holiday snaps' articles you'll find lots of actual holiday clothes....

Bags - VideoMarch 4th 2024

The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video

December 11th 2023

This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...

The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video

Match in comments:
Great interview, had time to watch it properly now. Lots of interesting history and also positivity, A&S is in safe hands....

Suits - VideoDecember 11th 2023

How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...

October 25th 2023

The main reason I wanted to bring designer Luke Walker onto our series of talks was his experience working at both fashion brands (Lanvin, McQueen) and classic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s). I love what he does at his own brand, LEJ, and we tal...

How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...

Match in comments:
What a breath of fresh air Luke is ... so many gems, anecdotes and wisdom (Oh ... and a dusting of luxuriant chest hair). Loved it all....

VideoOctober 25th 2023

Video: Carl and Oliver of Rubato, in conversation

April 21st 2023

One of the things I enjoy about this series is the way each conversation drifts onto grander topics. Even though many of the people are similar, and the questions don’t vary too much, we always end up discussing abstract, interesting ideas. W...

Video: Carl and Oliver of Rubato, in conversation

Match in comments:
I recently picked up the Rubato fireman’s jacket. Leaving a review here, since Google brought me here when I was looking for opinions. I was thinking about the jacket for months and had the good luck of trying Carl’s...

VideoApril 21st 2023

Video: Jamie Ferguson on photography and style

February 20th 2023

  This was really fun. I guess it’s always easier interviewing someone you know well, but there’s also a temptation there to just chat – to forget the perhaps more significant topics you had wanted to discuss. I think ...

Video: Jamie Ferguson on photography and style

Match in comments:
nice guys) cheers!...

VideoFebruary 20th 2023

How to hand wash knitwear: Video

December 28th 2022

  The clothing care I’ve always been worst at is washing knitwear. But I have got better in recent years, in part as I’ve become more used to the process and it’s felt more reliable, more predictable. Over time...

How to hand wash knitwear: Video

Match in comments:
Not really, I just wouldn't do that many at once. Make it something you do regularly but not in volume or frequently, and it will be more satisfying. Do a couple every two weeks, for example. The advantage is that the mo...

Alterations and care - KnitwearDecember 28th 2022

Video: Ethan Newton, his style and the evolution ...

November 14th 2022

It's easy to forget that when Bryceland's first started, the idea was just to do tailoring. Six and half years later, on the eve of opening his third shop in London, Ethan Newton reflects with me on how far he and the brand have come. Hear how he th...

Video: Ethan Newton, his style and the evolution ...

Match in comments:
Yes, I think we begin to be more interested in clothes over time, particularly when we see others wear them well. However, I wouldn't put these in the bracket of black trousers, as they'll fade quickly and basically beco...

Video - November 14th 2022

Video: Tony Sylvester, style and subcultures

September 19th 2022

Can subcultures ever exist in this century the way they did in the last? Why are logos better on some clothes than others? Why do French men dress like happy Englishmen? When I introduced this talk with Tony Sylvester I promised a wide ranging mens...

Video: Tony Sylvester, style and subcultures

Match in comments:
It is, but I don't know more than that....

Style - VideoSeptember 19th 2022

Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)

September 7th 2022

The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...

Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)

Match in comments:
Nice to hear Tamaki. We'll be doing more like it soon. I also like the deliberate misspelling - 'impressing'!...

Suits - VideoSeptember 7th 2022

Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring

November 16th 2020

This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd want to talk to a dry cleaner ...

Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring

Match in comments:
I'm not sure I can tell that much Jack to be honest. I'd take them to the dry cleaner if that didn't work...

Alterations and care - VideoNovember 16th 2020

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

October 21st 2020

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

Match in comments:
Thank you. From Jean-Manuel Moreau, reviewed here...

Alterations and care - TrousersOctober 21st 2020

How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor

August 7th 2020

Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects about caring for clothes, includi...

How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor

Match in comments:
Many thanks Lindsay...

Alterations and care - VideoAugust 7th 2020

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

July 17th 2020

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

Match in comments:
Mostly the style...

Shirts - SuitsJuly 17th 2020

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I spend?” It’s a popu...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

Match in comments:
Thank you, pleased we've been of help. Yes I think Whitcomb might be a better uniform and a good one for the budget. Anything else, just let me know...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I’m going to a tailor or shirt...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

Match in comments:
Yes, they usually do. Though I actually ask them not to sometimes, as I have too many and hate the waste! Same with cloth bags. Really pleased the video has been so useful....

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

May 6th 2020

  One of the things I enjoy most about Permanent Style is the comments from readers. It’s like each article is a new thread in a forum, with subject raised and then comments, experiences and questions all following, vastly enriching t...

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

Match in comments:
Hi Creceden, Thank you, that's very kind. If the jacket you're talking about is the one in the picture, it looks like a nice material and I like the combination with the roll neck. But it's more traditional and i think i...

Black tie - StyleMay 6th 2020

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

April 24th 2020

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Match in comments:
Hey Jack, I really don't know I'm afraid - I would have guessed the material, but if that's the same then I have no idea...

Suits - VideoApril 24th 2020

Video: How long should a jacket be?

March 30th 2020

This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...

Video: How long should a jacket be?

Match in comments:
Pleased you found it useful Ryan. Choosing between these measures is a question of personal preference - they all have a good rationale behind them. Personally I'd want the jacket to cover my seat still...

Suits - VideoMarch 30th 2020

Video: How a jacket should fit

March 9th 2020

This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...

Video: How a jacket should fit

Match in comments:
Ah, ok. One of the advantages of bespoke always, having that inlay...

Suits - VideoMarch 9th 2020

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

February 17th 2020

It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's view, men too often go fo...

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

Match in comments:
Hi Michael. Most sweaters will stretch a little if worn close and therefore pushed and stretched themselves. Wool particularly. It sounds like you might need a bigger size if you're wearing them over a shirt...

Knitwear - StyleFebruary 17th 2020

Video: What makes a quality hat?

January 17th 2020

In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking. I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spent most of their professional c...

Video: What makes a quality hat?

Match in comments:
Yes it could, though I'd probably start with a sisal one, or perhaps at least a brown band and slightly smaller shape...

Hats - VideoJanuary 17th 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

Match in comments:
They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

December 9th 2019

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

Match in comments:
Amazing, thanks for letting me know JP. Do shout if you have any other questions...

Alterations and care - VideoDecember 9th 2019

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

November 22nd 2019

This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

Match in comments:
There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...

Jackets - VideoNovember 22nd 2019

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

November 6th 2019

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

Match in comments:
Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....

Jackets - VideoNovember 6th 2019

Ivy Style today: The Symposium video, New York

October 30th 2019

Last week's Symposium in New York was hugely enjoyable. There were over 200 enthusiastic people in the audience (standing room only) and I think the speakers were perfect. Alan Flusser gave the historical background on Ivy style (having lived it him...

Ivy Style today: The Symposium video, New York

Match in comments:
By the way, if you want an explanation from Alan on why he dresses this way today, it can be found here: https://alanflusser.com/musings-from-alans-desk/alan-flusser-style...

Style - VideoOctober 30th 2019

Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...

September 27th 2019

The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a suit, but not in a polo either)...

Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...

Match in comments:
Thank you very much for immediate response!...

Style - VideoSeptember 27th 2019

Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired

August 9th 2019

How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame, because a benefit of the way...

Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired

Match in comments:
I see, thanks Dario. No, it is cloth rubbing against itself that usually causes it to wear through. My comment above at the end is in regards to jeans. I'm saying that you can patch on the inside there, because you don't...

Alterations and care - VideoAugust 9th 2019

Video: How to pack a suitcase

July 26th 2019

For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrapping jackets and trousers aro...

Video: How to pack a suitcase

Match in comments:
I'm afraid I don't know the brand Tim, they don't have one on them and I've had them for many years. Anything in plastic is good though, it just has to be light...

Video - July 26th 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

Match in comments:
I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

May 22nd 2019

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held in Carreducker's leather schoo...

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

Match in comments:
I've know Felix for some time. He has upscaled some rare beautiful vintage boots, multiple re-soles and re-finishes all to my rathater OCD requirements. He then made me a very beautiful pair of engineer boots with bespok...

Shoes - VideoMay 22nd 2019

England and Florence: Understated, rural style

May 13th 2019

  I always wondered why my friend Tommaso was such a fan of British style: he always wore tweed jackets, flannel trousers, Scottish knitwear. Even cotton Harrington jackets. His green tweed jacket from Loris Vestrucci was one reason I was i...

England and Florence: Understated, rural style

Match in comments:
I'm exaggerating, but there is a tendency among many Neapolitans to be a bit flamboyant and try to show off with their clothes - Neapolitans themselves tell me, so it must be true!...

Style - VideoMay 13th 2019

Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...

April 10th 2019

I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and hear the experiences, views ...

Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...

Match in comments:
Nice point. I have a shirt made by them so will plan to do that...

VideoApril 10th 2019

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

April 3rd 2019

  This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct cloth choices, and how ...

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

Match in comments:
Thanks so much for your guidance!...

Suits - VideoApril 3rd 2019

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

March 6th 2019

  Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it all: building a shi...

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

Match in comments:
Hey Jim, It's very hard to say from a single static picture, but I would expect that you would get less collapsing of the cloth at the sides of your chest and back, which probably comes from shoulders that are a little m...

Shirts - VideoMarch 6th 2019

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

February 13th 2019

  While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a first pair of bespo...

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

Match in comments:
That's very sad. I was quite looking forward to trying the new range at some point. Hopefully it's not a permanent closure but the above doesn't sound very auspicious....

Shoes - VideoFebruary 13th 2019

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

January 23rd 2019

  When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel guilty every few m...

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

Match in comments:
I haven't tried any of those methods I'm afraid Rich, and I'm not sure I'd recommend trying them unless you're happy for it to mess up the sweater. If it helps, I thought that at first but got used to the lambswool over ...

Knitwear - VideoJanuary 23rd 2019

Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit

November 9th 2018

The Campaign for Wool recently asked me to help them with a series of videos educating people on caring for wool products. Chaired by HRH Prince Charles, the Campaign is a charity that communicates how environmentally friendly and sustainable wool i...

Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit

Match in comments:
Interesting and thanks again. I would advise against built-in wardrobes, particularly if there is any susceptible risk of damp in the house. That needs proper installation and ventilation. I had to dismantle and dispose ...

Suits - VideoNovember 9th 2018

Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...

November 2nd 2018

'Dressing up in a Dress-Down World' felt like a very timely subject for this Symposium, our first in New York. And particularly relevant in the US, perhaps, where there has always been a cultural aversion to dressing too smartly - in the so-called '...

Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...

Match in comments:
It's a royal-blue flannel. I'm not sure it's available anymore I'm afraid, but that's what you're looking for....

Style - VideoNovember 2nd 2018

How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine

October 22nd 2018

  As with the first in our shoe polishing videos, this film is more discursive than most, with context and analysis around both the talk and the demonstration. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, and coming up ...

How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine

Match in comments:
Hi J. To be honest, not soon I'm afraid. We are planning a follow-up video but it has been slow....

Shoes - VideoOctober 22nd 2018

How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream

October 15th 2018

For the next in our series of practical videos, I wanted to tackle shoe polishing. But, also to present it in a way that was more discursive, and explained rather than just taught. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, an...

How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream

Match in comments:
Thanks, Simon! I’m on the same page as regards smells, didn’t know what ‘source’ to use so will surely check out the blocks....

Shoes - VideoOctober 15th 2018

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The audience was made up of largely ...

Media Symposium – The debate

Match in comments:
what's worse is the no socks look with those 'hidden' socks that everyone can see......

Style - VideoJune 20th 2018

Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief

June 6th 2018

This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-satin hanks. Hopefully this off...

Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief

Match in comments:
Hi Nik, is there a chance to get one of these white linen pocket squares? Best regards, Jens...

Hanks and scarves - VideoJune 6th 2018

Video: In conversation with Lorenzo

June 1st 2018

As promised a while back, here is some video coverage of the talk Lorenzo Cifonelli and I gave at Attire House in Hong Kong last month. We cover a pretty broad range of topics, from how annoyed Lorenzo looks when he's doing fittings, to the various ...

Video: In conversation with Lorenzo

Match in comments:
Yes, it's easier to get good fit in RTW shoes than in RTW tailoring...

Video - June 1st 2018

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

March 21st 2018

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the Ci...

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

Match in comments:
Very nice and pleasant video. Grazie mille)...

VideoMarch 21st 2018

How to look after suede jackets – Video

March 7th 2018

This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street. In this second instalment we turn our attention t...

How to look after suede jackets – Video

Match in comments:
I'm not sure actually...

Casual clothing - VideoMarch 7th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate

January 18th 2018

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate

Match in comments:
Awesome article Simon. Very informative. Your photography is perfect and this type of content is hard to find. You are right i found it interesting because of the video. Nice crowd and very well explained everything i al...

Shirts - VideoJanuary 18th 2018

How to look after your shoes

January 12th 2018

This is the first in a series of videos that we will be doing over the coming months, looking at caring for good clothes. They will be instructional, but not too technical, and we plan to build them up slowly over the year - so for example, not try...

How to look after your shoes

Match in comments:
Great Many thanks Lindsay...

Shoes - VideoJanuary 12th 2018