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Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue

August 16th 2019

In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...

Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue

In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...

Casual jacketsAugust 16th 2019

Latest Posts

Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)

August 14th 2019

I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...

Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)

I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...

StyleAugust 14th 2019

Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello

August 12th 2019

Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...

Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello

Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...

StyleAugust 12th 2019

Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired

August 9th 2019

How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...

Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired

How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...

Alterations and careAugust 9th 2019

Dressing for different walks of life

August 7th 2019

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...

Dressing for different walks of life

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...

Black tie - Casual jacketsAugust 7th 2019

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

August 5th 2019

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...

SuitsAugust 5th 2019

My glasses: A journey in eyewear

August 2nd 2019

I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...

My glasses: A journey in eyewear

I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...

Glasses and jewelleryAugust 2nd 2019

Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing

July 31st 2019

Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...

Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing

Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...

StyleJuly 31st 2019

Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks

July 29th 2019

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...

Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...

StyleJuly 29th 2019

Video: How to pack a suitcase

July 26th 2019

For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...

Video: How to pack a suitcase

For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...

July 26th 2019

What is authenticity?

July 24th 2019

I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...

What is authenticity?

I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...

July 24th 2019

Active Threads

Hi J. To be honest, not soon I'm afraid. We are planning a follow-up video but it has been slow.

How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine

Read the comments

Well, thanks for the interesting points Peter, less for the personal nature of some of them. I completely agree you shouldn't overthink these things. But you've been to restaurants and events before. You know the kind of thing people wear. And there is certainly a…

Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)

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Nice point - we did look at making it more fitted, but it started to look too much like a shirt fit, and perhaps lose some of the character of the garment, which is to be rather loose

Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue

Read the comments

There are some differences but they're small. English use a slightly thicker lining in the waistband; their finishing is consistently neat and good, but without lots of tacks or top stitching; and they do tend to cut a little higher in the rise and fuller…

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

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I know my odd comment on hopsack sounds...well, odd, but I was thinking about it, and thought that as I already had a hopsack suit, I should probably go with the cavalry gabardine, sorry if it sounded weird in the context of the written conversation!…

Five double-breasted styles compared

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That's quite a timely question actually Joseph. I'm just writing a post about my experiences since I quite my full-time job. Should be up in the next two weeks - do ask any questions there

Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello

Read the comments

Latest Posts Continued

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update

July 22nd 2019

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Ol...

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Ol...

July 22nd 2019

The pop-up shop is back, with six new brands

July 19th 2019

I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same...

The pop-up shop is back, with six new brands

I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same...

July 19th 2019

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

July 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...

SuitsJuly 17th 2019

The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...

July 15th 2019

When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...

The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...

When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...

July 15th 2019

Earthy, refined colours for summer

July 12th 2019

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...

Earthy, refined colours for summer

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...

Jackets - StyleJuly 12th 2019

Five casual suits: A capsule collection

July 10th 2019

I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...

Five casual suits: A capsule collection

I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...

SuitsJuly 10th 2019

Instagram Stories

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Latest Posts Continued

Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser

July 8th 2019

Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...

Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser

Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...

July 8th 2019

Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada

July 5th 2019

Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...

Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada

Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...

StyleJuly 5th 2019

The new Lightweight Friday Polo

July 3rd 2019

This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...

The new Lightweight Friday Polo

This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...

ShirtsJuly 3rd 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

June 28th 2019

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...

Style - SuitsJune 28th 2019

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

June 26th 2019

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...

June 26th 2019

A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review

June 24th 2019

Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...

A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review

Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...

BagsJune 24th 2019

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

June 21st 2019

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...

Casual jacketsJune 21st 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...

Bags - Casual jacketsJune 19th 2019

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

June 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

June 17th 2019

Denim

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Denim - ShirtsDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

DenimNovember 16th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Reader questions - ShoesAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018