Home

Latest Post

Pink PS Oxford shirts available

August 10th 2020

What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be go...

Pink PS Oxford shirts available

What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be go...

ShirtsAugust 10th 2020

Latest Posts

How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor

August 7th 2020

Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects abou...

How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor

Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects abou...

Alterations and care - VideoAugust 7th 2020

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

August 5th 2020

A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made...

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made...

StyleAugust 5th 2020

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

August 3rd 2020

Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not a...

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not a...

TrousersAugust 3rd 2020

My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer

July 31st 2020

Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of ...

My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer

Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of ...

ShoesJuly 31st 2020

My Summer shoes

July 29th 2020

Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But...

My Summer shoes

Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But...

ShoesJuly 29th 2020

The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I ...

The guide to jacket pockets

As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I ...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit

July 22nd 2020

Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise ...

Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit

Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise ...

Casual clothingJuly 22nd 2020

Escorial Tweed is available again

July 20th 2020

UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you ...

Escorial Tweed is available again

UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you ...

ClothJuly 20th 2020

The Online Symposium: Luxury menswear in a digital age

July 17th 2020

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they...

The Online Symposium: Luxury menswear in a digital age

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they...

Shirts - SuitsJuly 17th 2020

Latest Posts Continued

The Summer Top Five

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especial...

The Summer Top Five

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especial...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way fo...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way fo...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

July 10th 2020

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small num...

Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small num...

July 10th 2020

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes

July 8th 2020

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought...

ShoesJuly 8th 2020

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

July 6th 2020

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that ...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that ...

ClothJuly 6th 2020

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

July 3rd 2020

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, o...

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, o...

ShoesJuly 3rd 2020

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

July 1st 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable,...

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable,...

SuitsJuly 1st 2020

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

June 29th 2020

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish sh...

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish sh...

ShoesJune 29th 2020

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

How to wear a cream jacket

June 24th 2020

A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and...

How to wear a cream jacket

A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and...

StyleJune 24th 2020

Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing

June 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly becam...

Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly becam...

June 22nd 2020

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

June 19th 2020

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combi...

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combi...

StyleJune 19th 2020

A complete capsule wardrobe

June 17th 2020

This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the c...

A complete capsule wardrobe

This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the c...

June 17th 2020

The accidental columnist: Robert Armstrong

June 15th 2020

Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column. In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the rol...

The accidental columnist: Robert Armstrong

Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column. In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the rol...

StyleJune 15th 2020

Wearing red – with L’Etiquette

June 12th 2020

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website per...

Wearing red – with L’Etiquette

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website per...

StyleJune 12th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

June 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle o...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle o...

SuitsJune 10th 2020

Denim

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

The Trench Coat with casual wear

September 13th 2019

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...

The Trench Coat with casual wear

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...

Denim - HatsSeptember 13th 2019

Reader Qs

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019