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Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review

February 18th 2019

I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...

Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review

I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...

Accessories - HatsFebruary 18th 2019

Latest Posts

The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit

February 15th 2019

The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...

The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit

The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...

ClothFebruary 15th 2019

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

February 13th 2019

While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...

ShoesFebruary 13th 2019

Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…

February 12th 2019

The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...

Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…

The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...

February 12th 2019

Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair

February 11th 2019

They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...

Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair

They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...

ClothFebruary 11th 2019

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

February 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....

Shirts - Shirts and tiesFebruary 8th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

February 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...

Suits - TailorsFebruary 6th 2019

One million readers on Permanent Style

February 5th 2019

In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...

One million readers on Permanent Style

In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...

February 5th 2019

Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

February 4th 2019

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...

Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...

Accessories - Belts and walletsFebruary 4th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...

Strong colour in accessories

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...

Overcoats - ScarvesFebruary 1st 2019

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

January 30th 2019

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJanuary 30th 2019

Latest Posts Continued

New York bespoke tailors – Updated

January 29th 2019

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...

New York bespoke tailors – Updated

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...

TailorsJanuary 29th 2019

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

January 28th 2019

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Step...

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Step...

AccessoriesJanuary 28th 2019

Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream

January 25th 2019

I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suite...

Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream

I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suite...

HatsJanuary 25th 2019

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

January 23rd 2019

When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel...

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel...

KnitwearJanuary 23rd 2019

Pop-up brands announced: Adret, Prologue, Anthology

January 22nd 2019

In the past week we have confirmed three new brands for the pop-up shop on Savile Row: Adret, Prologue and The Anthology. Hong Kong tailor and shop Prologue will be there in week 1 (February 19 to 23), while The Antholog...

Pop-up brands announced: Adret, Prologue, Anthology

In the past week we have confirmed three new brands for the pop-up shop on Savile Row: Adret, Prologue and The Anthology. Hong Kong tailor and shop Prologue will be there in week 1 (February 19 to 23), while The Antholog...

January 22nd 2019

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

January 21st 2019

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don&rsqu...

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don&rsqu...

January 21st 2019

Featured Post

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

Media Symposium – The debate

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

StyleJune 20th 2018

Latest Posts Continued

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Casual wear - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

January 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer...

OvercoatsJanuary 16th 2019

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

January 14th 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus th...

The Permanent Style Awards 2019

What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus th...

January 14th 2019

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...

January 11th 2019

I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather p...

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...

I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather p...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJanuary 11th 2019

New pop-up shop – with Bryceland’s, Opt...

January 7th 2019

I'm very happy to say that Permanent Style Presents will be back for another opening at the end of February. The pop-up shop, now its fourth incarnation, will be on Savile Row for two weeks from February 19th. We will be...

New pop-up shop – with Bryceland’s, Opt...

I'm very happy to say that Permanent Style Presents will be back for another opening at the end of February. The pop-up shop, now its fourth incarnation, will be on Savile Row for two weeks from February 19th. We will be...

January 7th 2019

How to layer knitwear

January 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt. And stylish because it looks so relaxed and casual, yet unusual.

How to layer knitwear

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt. And stylish because it looks so relaxed and casual, yet unusual.

Knitwear - StyleJanuary 4th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Accessories - BagsJanuary 2nd 2019

Everyday Denim cloth back in stock

December 31st 2018

On the Permanent Style shop we're gradually moving more things into constant stock, as the size of the audience supports it. One of the things that had been unavailable for a while was the Everyday Denim fabric, an exclu...

Everyday Denim cloth back in stock

On the Permanent Style shop we're gradually moving more things into constant stock, as the size of the audience supports it. One of the things that had been unavailable for a while was the Everyday Denim fabric, an exclu...

December 31st 2018

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admire...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admire...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

Merry Christmas everyone

December 25th 2018

Merry Christmas everybody. Here's hoping you're wrapped up in the warmth of family and friends. And not spending all day on Instagram. Normal service resumes on Friday. Photo: Christmassy colours, courtesy of Dunhill bag...

Merry Christmas everyone

Merry Christmas everybody. Here's hoping you're wrapped up in the warmth of family and friends. And not spending all day on Instagram. Normal service resumes on Friday. Photo: Christmassy colours, courtesy of Dunhill bag...

December 25th 2018

Denim

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Casual wear - DenimDecember 14th 2018

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots an...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots an...

Bags - BootNovember 12th 2018

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

September 26th 2018

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jack...

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jack...

Casual wear - DenimSeptember 26th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

How to - Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Casual wear - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Accessories - BagsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018