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Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

September 26th 2018

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers.   I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket ...

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers.   I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket ...

Casual wear - DenimSeptember 26th 2018

Latest Posts

The New York Symposium – please RSVP!

September 24th 2018

This is going to be exciting. Our first Symposium event outside Florence - and in New York alongside Budd and Anderson & Sheppard. The speakers are big names from across the range of menswear. We're all familiar with Sco...

The New York Symposium – please RSVP!

This is going to be exciting. Our first Symposium event outside Florence - and in New York alongside Budd and Anderson & Sheppard. The speakers are big names from across the range of menswear. We're all familiar with Sco...

September 24th 2018

The guide to casual shirt fabrics

September 23rd 2018

As work environments become increasingly casual, men are more in need of less formal shirts – usually worn without a tie, often with flannels or chinos. It’s fairly easy to see which styles of shirt are more cas...

The guide to casual shirt fabrics

As work environments become increasingly casual, men are more in need of less formal shirts – usually worn without a tie, often with flannels or chinos. It’s fairly easy to see which styles of shirt are more cas...

ShirtsSeptember 23rd 2018

Should your belt match your shoes? (Or bag)

September 21st 2018

This question might seem like an easy one, but I do get a lot of comments and emails about it, so I thought I’d lay it out in a post. No, in short, a leather belt and leather shoes do not have to match. But they should...

Should your belt match your shoes? (Or bag)

This question might seem like an easy one, but I do get a lot of comments and emails about it, so I thought I’d lay it out in a post. No, in short, a leather belt and leather shoes do not have to match. But they should...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 21st 2018

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

September 17th 2018

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders...

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders...

SuitsSeptember 17th 2018

How to hold trunk shows

September 14th 2018

Last week a reader stopped me on the street. He asked me why a certain tailor, who will remain nameless, hadn’t yet returned to London for his next fitting – and wasn’t answering emails. I understand why he asked m...

How to hold trunk shows

Last week a reader stopped me on the street. He asked me why a certain tailor, who will remain nameless, hadn’t yet returned to London for his next fitting – and wasn’t answering emails. I understand why he asked m...

Finding a tailorSeptember 14th 2018

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

September 12th 2018

Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experi...

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experi...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 12th 2018

How to buy quality: The Guide

September 10th 2018

“Most guys just want to buy a few things, but buy the best.” That was a friend’s reaction to our shirts capsule collection last week. Basic though it was, capsule posts like that give guys a solid, straightforward ...

How to buy quality: The Guide

“Most guys just want to buy a few things, but buy the best.” That was a friend’s reaction to our shirts capsule collection last week. Basic though it was, capsule posts like that give guys a solid, straightforward ...

September 10th 2018

Bespoke pyjamas – at Burgos, Madrid

September 7th 2018

I don’t wear pyjamas to sleep in. I’ve always found them too constricting, and prefer underwear. However, ever since I had children (mine are now 10 and 7) I’ve put on pyjamas when I get up. With kids you’re more...

Bespoke pyjamas – at Burgos, Madrid

I don’t wear pyjamas to sleep in. I’ve always found them too constricting, and prefer underwear. However, ever since I had children (mine are now 10 and 7) I’ve put on pyjamas when I get up. With kids you’re more...

ShirtsSeptember 7th 2018

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recomme...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recomme...

How to - Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling F...

September 3rd 2018

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will alwa...

Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling F...

A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will alwa...

Loafer - ShoesSeptember 3rd 2018

If you only had five shirts: A capsule collection

August 31st 2018

Readers have asked for a while for this post: something recommending a core, versatile shirt collection. The idea of suggesting such ‘capsule’ collections is that they help a newcomer build a wardrobe, prioritising t...

If you only had five shirts: A capsule collection

Readers have asked for a while for this post: something recommending a core, versatile shirt collection. The idea of suggesting such ‘capsule’ collections is that they help a newcomer build a wardrobe, prioritising t...

ShirtsAugust 31st 2018

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

August 29th 2018

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)....

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)....

Hats - MonkAugust 29th 2018

The Finest Knitwear back in stock

August 27th 2018

The Finest Knitwear is back as of today, in V- and crew-neck, deep green and navy blue. Thanks to all those that have waited patiently for the new batch. It was interesting seeing readers trying the knitwear during the ...

The Finest Knitwear back in stock

The Finest Knitwear is back as of today, in V- and crew-neck, deep green and navy blue. Thanks to all those that have waited patiently for the new batch. It was interesting seeing readers trying the knitwear during the ...

August 27th 2018

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style brea...

August 24th 2018

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacke...

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style brea...

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacke...

Finding a tailor - SuitsAugust 24th 2018

The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB

August 22nd 2018

This is the latest in a nice series of posts called ‘ The Rules and How to Break Them‘. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here.  You can navigate to that page ...

The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB

This is the latest in a nice series of posts called ‘ The Rules and How to Break Them‘. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here.  You can navigate to that page ...

Jackets - StyleAugust 22nd 2018

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

August 20th 2018

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better ...

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better ...

GlassesAugust 20th 2018

The summer tie

August 17th 2018

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather tha...

The summer tie

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather tha...

Style - TiesAugust 17th 2018

The quality of 100 Hands shirts

August 15th 2018

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise o...

The quality of 100 Hands shirts

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise o...

ShirtsAugust 15th 2018

The Permanent Style Guides

August 13th 2018

After 10 years, 2000 posts and 40,000 comments, there is a lot of content on Permanent Style. But readers tell me it can be daunting for a first-time visitor. So over the next few months I will be collecting together som...

The Permanent Style Guides

After 10 years, 2000 posts and 40,000 comments, there is a lot of content on Permanent Style. But readers tell me it can be daunting for a first-time visitor. So over the next few months I will be collecting together som...

August 13th 2018

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

August 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Cloth - SuitsAugust 10th 2018

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

August 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publis...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publis...

Suits - TailorsAugust 8th 2018

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

August 6th 2018

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and ...

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and ...

ShirtsAugust 6th 2018

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

August 3rd 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially...

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially...

Style - WeddingsAugust 3rd 2018

How I filter fashions

August 1st 2018

Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of...

How I filter fashions

Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of...

StyleAugust 1st 2018

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

Denim

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

September 26th 2018

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers.   I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket ...

Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...

One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers.   I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket ...

Casual wear - DenimSeptember 26th 2018

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

May 18th 2018

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

Casual wear - DenimMay 18th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recomme...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recomme...

How to - Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Factory visits - TailoringJune 4th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018