Latest Post
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
August 16th 2019In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...
Latest Posts
Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)
August 14th 2019I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...
Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)
I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...
Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello
August 12th 2019Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...
Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello
Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
August 9th 2019How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...
Dressing for different walks of life
August 7th 2019Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...
Dressing for different walks of life
Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
August 2nd 2019I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...
Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing
July 31st 2019Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...
Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing
Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
July 29th 2019Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...
Video: How to pack a suitcase
July 26th 2019For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...
Video: How to pack a suitcase
For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...
What is authenticity?
July 24th 2019I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...
What is authenticity?
I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...
Latest Posts Continued
Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update
July 22nd 2019There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Ol...
Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update
There are some interesting things going on in French menswear. Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Ol...
The pop-up shop is back, with six new brands
July 19th 2019I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same...
The pop-up shop is back, with six new brands
I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
July 17th 2019This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...
The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...
July 15th 2019When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...
The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...
When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...
Earthy, refined colours for summer
July 12th 2019Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...
Earthy, refined colours for summer
Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...
Five casual suits: A capsule collection
July 10th 2019I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...
Five casual suits: A capsule collection
I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...
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Latest Posts Continued
Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser
July 8th 2019Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...
Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser
Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...
Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada
July 5th 2019Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...
Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada
Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...
The new Lightweight Friday Polo
July 3rd 2019This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...
The new Lightweight Friday Polo
This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...
A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019
July 1st 2019This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...
A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019
This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...
The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you
June 28th 2019One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...
The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you
One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...
Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide
June 26th 2019UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...
Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide
UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...
A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review
June 24th 2019Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...
A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review
Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
June 21st 2019I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties
Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update
June 17th 2019Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update
Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...
Denim
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
Hi J. To be honest, not soon I'm afraid. We are planning a follow-up video but it has been slow.
How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine
Read the commentsWell, thanks for the interesting points Peter, less for the personal nature of some of them. I completely agree you shouldn't overthink these things. But you've been to restaurants and events before. You know the kind of thing people wear. And there is certainly a…
Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)
Read the commentsNice point - we did look at making it more fitted, but it started to look too much like a shirt fit, and perhaps lose some of the character of the garment, which is to be rather loose
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
Read the commentsThere are some differences but they're small. English use a slightly thicker lining in the waistband; their finishing is consistently neat and good, but without lots of tacks or top stitching; and they do tend to cut a little higher in the rise and fuller…
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
Read the commentsI know my odd comment on hopsack sounds...well, odd, but I was thinking about it, and thought that as I already had a hopsack suit, I should probably go with the cavalry gabardine, sorry if it sounded weird in the context of the written conversation!…
Five double-breasted styles compared
Read the commentsThat's quite a timely question actually Joseph. I'm just writing a post about my experiences since I quite my full-time job. Should be up in the next two weeks - do ask any questions there
Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello
Read the comments