Latest Post
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
August 10th 2020What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be go...
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be go...
Latest Posts
How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor
August 7th 2020Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects abou...
How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor
Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects abou...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
August 5th 2020A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
August 3rd 2020Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not a...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not a...
My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer
July 31st 2020Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of ...
My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer
Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo. Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of ...
My Summer shoes
July 29th 2020Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But...
My Summer shoes
Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But...
The guide to jacket pockets
July 27th 2020As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I ...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I ...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
July 24th 2020This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
July 22nd 2020Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise ...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise ...
Escorial Tweed is available again
July 20th 2020UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you ...
Escorial Tweed is available again
UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you ...
The Online Symposium: Luxury menswear in a digital age
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they...
The Online Symposium: Luxury menswear in a digital age
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they...
Latest Posts Continued
The Summer Top Five
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especial...
The Summer Top Five
With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especial...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way fo...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way fo...
Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing
July 10th 2020Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small num...
Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing
Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small num...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes
July 8th 2020Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes
Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
July 6th 2020One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that ...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that ...
Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands
July 3rd 2020UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, o...
Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands
UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, o...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
July 1st 2020Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable,...
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable,...
What are the best cheaper shoe brands?
June 29th 2020*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish sh...
What are the best cheaper shoe brands?
*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish sh...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
How to wear a cream jacket
June 24th 2020A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and...
How to wear a cream jacket
A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and...
Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing
June 22nd 2020A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly becam...
Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing
A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly becam...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
June 19th 2020Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combi...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combi...
A complete capsule wardrobe
June 17th 2020This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the c...
A complete capsule wardrobe
This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the c...
The accidental columnist: Robert Armstrong
June 15th 2020Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column. In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the rol...
The accidental columnist: Robert Armstrong
Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column. In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the rol...
Wearing red – with L’Etiquette
June 12th 2020The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website per...
Wearing red – with L’Etiquette
The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website per...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
June 10th 2020Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle o...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle o...
Denim
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
May 18th 2020The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
See all threads
It's Holland & Sherry tweed - see article on the whole suit here And the answer is, very versatile. It would be among my top 1 or 2 recommendations for a casual (non-business) jacket
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
Read the commentsI'm so pleased to hear. In terms of choosing a tailor, my first question would be, which of those two styles do you want? English or Neapolitan? And then I'd sub-categorise (all this based purely on style): drape or military English? older or newer Neapolitan?
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
Read the commentsNo, it was just part of their initial plans for the tailoring, but that later got dropped
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
Read the commentsNo particular reason, I just didn't necessarily feel it was worth the extra money. That's always a big part of it. I'm not going to pay twice as much for vicuna over cashmere, just because it's softer. The diminishing returns always come into play at…
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
Read the commentsYes I would Paul. For me, the key is that the suit looks casual - usually both colour and material. It also helps if it's hot, as there's a more obvious, practical reason for going without a tie.
Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review
Read the commentsClever!
How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor
Read the comments