Latest Post
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...
Latest Posts
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
April 17th 2019This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...
April 15th 2019Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...
Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
April 12th 2019The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium
April 10th 2019I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium
I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
April 8th 2019Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...
Three things that didn't quite work
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...
Three things that didn't quite work
This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
April 3rd 2019This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
April 1st 2019This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...
The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking
March 29th 2019Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...
The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking
Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...
Dressing for complexion: Should you care?
March 27th 2019High contrast Readers regularly ask about whether they should wear certain colours, and why certain clothes might appear to ‘wash them out’. My opinion has always been that skin colour and complexion is less ...
Dressing for complexion: Should you care?
High contrast Readers regularly ask about whether they should wear certain colours, and why certain clothes might appear to ‘wash them out’. My opinion has always been that skin colour and complexion is less ...
Latest Posts Continued
Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock
March 25th 2019[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...
Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock
[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
March 22nd 2019This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...
Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit
March 20th 2019I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...
Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit
I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...
March 18th 2019Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...
Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...
Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop
March 15th 2019A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...
Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop
A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Featured Post
Media Symposium – The debate
June 20th 2018Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Media Symposium – The debate
Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Latest Posts Continued
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s
March 11th 2019Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s
Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
March 8th 2019In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
March 6th 2019Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
March 4th 2019At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
March 1st 2019Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury
February 27th 2019Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury
Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
February 25th 2019Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...
Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP
February 22nd 2019Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...
Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP
Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...
The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party
February 21st 2019Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...
The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party
Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9
February 20th 2019Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...
Denim
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
I agree, that is a big difference, and it would be good to do once. However, these posts are not intended to demonstrate fit, both because that would require the same amount of text all over again, and because it's almost impossible to do well…
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Read the commentsStyle is obviously quite personal, but they definitely have a sense of style - an awareness of it, and a real expression of it in their clothes. If you ask them about style, for example, they will reply at length about what they like and…
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
Read the commentsNo, I'd say Caliendo is a touch better
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
Read the commentsSuggestion: an updated version of this post comparing London City, Northampton, variants of Italian shoes, Japanese, and continental European shoes would be quite interesting.
The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling
Read the commentsA great video. That indeed covers many aspects from the tailors and clients side. Akshat and his family are by far our greatest competitor and reference for shirt tailoring. Keep on the great work.
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
Read the commentsx15 I guess
Ortus bespoke leather goods, Tokyo
Read the comments