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The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

June 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now ...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now ...

June 3rd 2020

Latest Posts

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

June 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the ...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the ...

SuitsJune 1st 2020

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels

May 29th 2020

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe. This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks &...

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe. This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks &...

StyleMay 29th 2020

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

May 27th 2020

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for t...

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for t...

KnitwearMay 27th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

May 22nd 2020

Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for. Do they need specific colours, or m...

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for. Do they need specific colours, or m...

Socks and underwearMay 22nd 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

May 20th 2020

Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in q...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in q...

KnitwearMay 20th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

May 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores l...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores l...

Casual clothing - ShoesMay 15th 2020

The Coronavirus: We will survive because we care

May 13th 2020

These are dark and uncertain times for businesses everywhere, in particular fashion. Who will care about their clothes if they’re at home the whole time? Who will spend large amounts of money on clothing when the ...

The Coronavirus: We will survive because we care

These are dark and uncertain times for businesses everywhere, in particular fashion. Who will care about their clothes if they’re at home the whole time? Who will spend large amounts of money on clothing when the ...

May 13th 2020

The cream shirt

May 11th 2020

There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all...

The cream shirt

There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all...

ShirtsMay 11th 2020

Latest Posts Continued

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki

May 8th 2020

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in it...

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in it...

SuitsMay 8th 2020

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

May 6th 2020

One of the things I enjoy most about Permanent Style is the comments from readers. It’s like each article is a new thread in a forum, with subject raised and then comments, experiences and questions all following...

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

One of the things I enjoy most about Permanent Style is the comments from readers. It’s like each article is a new thread in a forum, with subject raised and then comments, experiences and questions all following...

Black tie - StyleMay 6th 2020

The unexpected inspiration of Ralph Lauren womenswear

May 4th 2020

Something that I find often surprises readers is how much the brands they admire are influenced by womenswear. It’s a topic we discussed briefly with Saman Amel last year, with Dag and Saman talking about old coll...

The unexpected inspiration of Ralph Lauren womenswear

Something that I find often surprises readers is how much the brands they admire are influenced by womenswear. It’s a topic we discussed briefly with Saman Amel last year, with Dag and Saman talking about old coll...

StyleMay 4th 2020

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

May 1st 2020

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the...

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the...

SuitsMay 1st 2020

Why I rarely wear a pocket square today

April 29th 2020

The pocket square, or handkerchief, is an interesting indicator of how dapper clothing has trended in the past 15 years. Broadly speaking, the late 1990s were all about business casual and the dotcom boom. Silicon Valle...

Why I rarely wear a pocket square today

The pocket square, or handkerchief, is an interesting indicator of how dapper clothing has trended in the past 15 years. Broadly speaking, the late 1990s were all about business casual and the dotcom boom. Silicon Valle...

Hanks and scarves - StyleApril 29th 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI’...

April 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perh...

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI’...

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perh...

Coats - SuitsApril 27th 2020

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

April 24th 2020

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a ...

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a ...

Suits - VideoApril 24th 2020

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 22nd 2020

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six m...

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six m...

JacketsApril 22nd 2020

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

April 20th 2020

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens. In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - bot...

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens. In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - bot...

ShoesApril 20th 2020

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

April 17th 2020

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo. However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting. Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be gettin...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo. However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting. Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be gettin...

ShoesApril 17th 2020

Don your highborn cloak: Ralph Lauren, saviour?

April 15th 2020

I recently finished reading In His Own Fashion , the official biography of Ralph Lauren, which Alan Flusser kindly gave me last year. I’d recommend it to anyone - it’s both interesting as a history of fashio...

Don your highborn cloak: Ralph Lauren, saviour?

I recently finished reading In His Own Fashion , the official biography of Ralph Lauren, which Alan Flusser kindly gave me last year. I’d recommend it to anyone - it’s both interesting as a history of fashio...

StyleApril 15th 2020

The hats of author Ned Brown

April 13th 2020

In our recent article on Wellema , much of the conversation in the comments centred around the relevance and wearability of hats today. So I thought it would be interesting to look into the habits and collection of a re...

The hats of author Ned Brown

In our recent article on Wellema , much of the conversation in the comments centred around the relevance and wearability of hats today. So I thought it would be interesting to look into the habits and collection of a re...

HatsApril 13th 2020

Three things I've bought on lockdown - and why

April 10th 2020

Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your cl...

Three things I've bought on lockdown - and why

Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your cl...

Casual clothing - KnitwearApril 10th 2020

Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style

April 8th 2020

OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps ...

Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style

OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps ...

StyleApril 8th 2020

Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review

April 6th 2020

This is my first hat from Cody Wellema, the LA-based craftsman that we covered the background on a couple of weeks ago. A hat from Cody is an investment - something that is truly made to last for years, and to be cleaned...

Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review

This is my first hat from Cody Wellema, the LA-based craftsman that we covered the background on a couple of weeks ago. A hat from Cody is an investment - something that is truly made to last for years, and to be cleaned...

HatsApril 6th 2020

How I store my clothes

April 3rd 2020

Being at home more has given me time to write about something readers frequently ask about: how I store my clothes. The short answer is, with difficulty, particularly given how much I care about looking after them. Tailo...

How I store my clothes

Being at home more has given me time to write about something readers frequently ask about: how I store my clothes. The short answer is, with difficulty, particularly given how much I care about looking after them. Tailo...

Alterations and careApril 3rd 2020

Denim

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

The Trench Coat with casual wear

September 13th 2019

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...

The Trench Coat with casual wear

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...

Denim - HatsSeptember 13th 2019

Reader Qs

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – Reader...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – Reader...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Reader questions - ShoesAugust 6th 2015

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019