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Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

June 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

June 17th 2019

Latest Posts

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather l...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather l...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of ...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of ...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Ciardi jacket in gun-club from Lafayette Saltiel

June 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's ...

Ciardi jacket in gun-club from Lafayette Saltiel

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's ...

Cloth - JacketsJune 10th 2019

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

June 7th 2019

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a...

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a...

ShirtsJune 7th 2019

Which sports-jacket office are you?

June 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flann...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flann...

StyleJune 5th 2019

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

June 3rd 2019

Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But th...

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But th...

TrousersJune 3rd 2019

Giving clothes a new lease of life

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to inve...

Giving clothes a new lease of life

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to inve...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

May 29th 2019

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was ve...

The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was ve...

May 29th 2019

Green/black linen suit, with Gieves & Hawkes

May 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it f...

Green/black linen suit, with Gieves & Hawkes

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it f...

SuitsMay 27th 2019

Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability

May 24th 2019

We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we...

Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability

We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we...

May 24th 2019

Latest Posts Continued

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

May 22nd 2019

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...

ShoesMay 22nd 2019

PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb

May 21st 2019

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...

PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...

May 21st 2019

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

May 20th 2019

[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...

ClothMay 20th 2019

Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!

May 17th 2019

Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor. It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley ...

Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!

Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor. It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley ...

KnitwearMay 17th 2019

The colours and combinations of Hermes

May 15th 2019

The silk and leather headquarters of Hermes are in a pretty nondescript set of white buildings just outside Lyon. Here, there are the 100m and 150m-long silk printing tables that I described in our previous post. There i...

The colours and combinations of Hermes

The silk and leather headquarters of Hermes are in a pretty nondescript set of white buildings just outside Lyon. Here, there are the 100m and 150m-long silk printing tables that I described in our previous post. There i...

Hanks and scarvesMay 15th 2019

England and Florence: Understated, rural style

May 13th 2019

I always wondered why my friend Tommaso was such a fan of British style: he always wore tweed jackets, flannel trousers, Scottish knitwear. Even cotton Harrington jackets. His green tweed jacket from Loris Vestrucci was...

England and Florence: Understated, rural style

I always wondered why my friend Tommaso was such a fan of British style: he always wore tweed jackets, flannel trousers, Scottish knitwear. Even cotton Harrington jackets. His green tweed jacket from Loris Vestrucci was...

StyleMay 13th 2019

Featured Post

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

Media Symposium – The debate

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

StyleJune 20th 2018

Latest Posts Continued

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

May 10th 2019

Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their hou...

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their hou...

May 10th 2019

How sustainable is luxury, bespoke clothing?

May 8th 2019

Sustainability might be a hot topic at the moment, but it’s one I’ve always felt has particular relevance for the Permanent Style audience. As consumers, we care more than average about clothes. We know and w...

How sustainable is luxury, bespoke clothing?

Sustainability might be a hot topic at the moment, but it’s one I’ve always felt has particular relevance for the Permanent Style audience. As consumers, we care more than average about clothes. We know and w...

May 8th 2019

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

May 6th 2019

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in tr...

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in tr...

JacketsMay 6th 2019

The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio

May 3rd 2019

This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it w...

The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio

This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it w...

May 3rd 2019

Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in T...

May 2nd 2019

For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, S...

Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in T...

For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, S...

May 2nd 2019

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

May 1st 2019

A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the sh...

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the sh...

TrousersMay 1st 2019

Working with craft companies – a talk with Do...

April 30th 2019

This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we...

Working with craft companies – a talk with Do...

This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we...

April 30th 2019

If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...

April 29th 2019

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply o...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply o...

Style - SuitsApril 29th 2019

Men need a core casual wardrobe

April 26th 2019

Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes – often called a ‘capsule collection’ – to add to those already published on ties, shirts ...

Men need a core casual wardrobe

Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes – often called a ‘capsule collection’ – to add to those already published on ties, shirts ...

StyleApril 26th 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

April 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived ...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived ...

Bags - Casual jacketsApril 24th 2019

Denim

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Denim - ShirtsDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

DenimNovember 16th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Reader questions - ShoesAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018