Home

Latest Post

How to dress pale colours for summer

July 27th 2016

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

How to dress pale colours for summer

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

Bags - HatsJuly 27th 201617 Comments

Latest Posts

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

July 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 25th 20169 Comments

Bennett Winch bags: Luxury canvas

July 22nd 2016

Most of the products we recommend on Permanent Style have a key appeal in their materials - the quality of it, the tactile pleasure of feeling it every day. The canvas used on Bennett Winch bags is one such material. T...

Bennett Winch bags: Luxury canvas

Most of the products we recommend on Permanent Style have a key appeal in their materials - the quality of it, the tactile pleasure of feeling it every day. The canvas used on Bennett Winch bags is one such material. T...

Accessories - BagsJuly 22nd 201614 Comments

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the ma...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the ma...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 201648 Comments

Combining smart and casual clothing

July 18th 2016

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Combining smart and casual clothing

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Casual wear - HandkerchiefsJuly 18th 201623 Comments

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

July 15th 2016

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 15th 201653 Comments

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

July 13th 2016

Stock left: 2 medium navy A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long...

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

Stock left: 2 medium navy A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long...

PolosJuly 13th 201644 Comments

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

July 11th 2016

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Casual wearJuly 11th 201614 Comments

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

July 8th 2016

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 8th 20167 Comments

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

July 6th 2016

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast wa...

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast wa...

Suits - TailoringJuly 6th 201651 Comments

The Permanent Style cufflinks

July 4th 2016

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations. In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everyth...

The Permanent Style cufflinks

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations. In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everyth...

AccessoriesJuly 4th 201612 Comments

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

September 16th 2015

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

TailoringSeptember 16th 20157 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

How to use the new website

July 1st 2016

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

How to use the new website

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

July 1st 201621 Comments

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

June 29th 2016

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

Loafer - ShoesJune 29th 201632 Comments

Suit style 3: The double breasted

June 27th 2016

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, bu...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, bu...

Suits - TailoringJune 27th 201638 Comments

Video: A hand-sewn wallet, from start to finish

June 26th 2016

A lovely video this, showing a lot of the detail of making a hand-sewn alligator wallet - from Charlie Trevor at Equus Leather. It was just released today. The music might be a bit much, but I think we can forgive it...

Video: A hand-sewn wallet, from start to finish

A lovely video this, showing a lot of the detail of making a hand-sewn alligator wallet - from Charlie Trevor at Equus Leather. It was just released today. The music might be a bit much, but I think we can forgive it...

Accessories - Belts and walletsJune 26th 20161 Comment

Video: Cycling and style

June 25th 2016

In case anyone's interested in my views on cycling and style - particularly the crossover between technical innovation and luxury - here's a video of an interview I did with Konrad Olsson during Pitti. Konrad is the edi...

Video: Cycling and style

In case anyone's interested in my views on cycling and style - particularly the crossover between technical innovation and luxury - here's a video of an interview I did with Konrad Olsson during Pitti. Konrad is the edi...

Casual wearJune 25th 20168 Comments

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Suits - TailoringJune 23rd 201665 Comments

How to use the new website

September 16th 2015

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

How to use the new website

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

September 16th 201521 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

June 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

TailoringJune 21st 20167 Comments

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on the ...

June 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what...

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on the ...

Davide Taub of Gieves & HawkesOne of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what...

TailoringJune 20th 201616 Comments

The Pitti of silly walks

June 17th 2016

The end of a conversation about people parading into Pitti. About its silliness. About therefore, naturally, the Ministry of Silly Walks. Fuller Pitti coverage next week - our Young Tailors Symposium on Wednesday, whi...

The Pitti of silly walks

The end of a conversation about people parading into Pitti. About its silliness. About therefore, naturally, the Ministry of Silly Walks. Fuller Pitti coverage next week - our Young Tailors Symposium on Wednesday, whi...

StyleJune 17th 201614 Comments

How to dress for summer – Reader question

June 15th 2016

Simon, Would you be willing to do a post on (casual) summer dressing? It’s the area of dress I struggle with the most. Every time I go on summer/spring holidays I find myself browsing through the internet looking ...

How to dress for summer – Reader question

Simon, Would you be willing to do a post on (casual) summer dressing? It’s the area of dress I struggle with the most. Every time I go on summer/spring holidays I find myself browsing through the internet looking ...

Casual wear - KnitwearJune 15th 201640 Comments

Charvet bespoke shirts, Paris

June 13th 2016

There are many reasons to commission a bespoke piece of clothing. I think the decision I made earlier in the year to order a bespoke shirt at Charvet, however, was the first time I have done so out of pure curiosity. I ...

Charvet bespoke shirts, Paris

There are many reasons to commission a bespoke piece of clothing. I think the decision I made earlier in the year to order a bespoke shirt at Charvet, however, was the first time I have done so out of pure curiosity. I ...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 13th 201635 Comments

Brand round-up: Inhedited, Coast Society, J Hopenst...

June 10th 2016

Our latest brand round-up includes some positive and some mixed reviews - reflecting both the quality of new things seen and tested by Permanent Style, and their originality. 1 Inhedited www.inhedited.com From £25...

Brand round-up: Inhedited, Coast Society, J Hopenst...

Our latest brand round-up includes some positive and some mixed reviews - reflecting both the quality of new things seen and tested by Permanent Style, and their originality. 1 Inhedited www.inhedited.com From £25...

Accessories - BagsJune 10th 201615 Comments

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan Bau...

June 8th 2016

I recently became involved with - and more importantly, started using - the best Belgian-style loafers I have ever worn. They are made by Allan Baudoin, a French bespoke shoemaker who now lives in England and has a work...

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan Bau...

I recently became involved with - and more importantly, started using - the best Belgian-style loafers I have ever worn. They are made by Allan Baudoin, a French bespoke shoemaker who now lives in England and has a work...

Loafer - ShoesJune 8th 201640 Comments

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 201628 Comments

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

June 3rd 2016

At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the...

The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known

At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the...

ClothJune 3rd 201654 Comments

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

June 1st 2016

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the secon...

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the secon...

SuitsJune 1st 201655 Comments

Denim

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 201628 Comments

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 201631 Comments

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

May 27th 2015

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Casual wear - DenimMay 27th 201539 Comments

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 201519 Comments

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 201551 Comments

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 201546 Comments

Factory Visits

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 20167 Comments

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 201530 Comments

Quality, embroidery and mechanisation – at Begg

February 13th 2015

The video above shows the key aspect of quality control at most weaving houses. Workers quickly scan the cloth for faults, then either snip off the stray end or – much more laboriously – manually re...

Quality, embroidery and mechanisation – at Begg

The video above shows the key aspect of quality control at most weaving houses. Workers quickly scan the cloth for faults, then either snip off the stray end or – much more laboriously – manually re...

Accessories - Factory visitsFebruary 13th 201525 Comments