Latest Post
Video: A conversation of cordwainers
May 22nd 2019Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...
Video: A conversation of cordwainers
Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...
Latest Posts
PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb
May 21st 2019Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...
PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb
Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
May 20th 2019[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...
Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!
May 17th 2019Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor. It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley ...
Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!
Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor. It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley ...
The colours and combinations of Hermes
May 15th 2019The silk and leather headquarters of Hermes are in a pretty nondescript set of white buildings just outside Lyon. Here, there are the 100m and 150m-long silk printing tables that I described in our previous post. There i...
The colours and combinations of Hermes
The silk and leather headquarters of Hermes are in a pretty nondescript set of white buildings just outside Lyon. Here, there are the 100m and 150m-long silk printing tables that I described in our previous post. There i...
England and Florence: Understated, rural style
May 13th 2019I always wondered why my friend Tommaso was such a fan of British style: he always wore tweed jackets, flannel trousers, Scottish knitwear. Even cotton Harrington jackets. His green tweed jacket from Loris Vestrucci was...
England and Florence: Understated, rural style
I always wondered why my friend Tommaso was such a fan of British style: he always wore tweed jackets, flannel trousers, Scottish knitwear. Even cotton Harrington jackets. His green tweed jacket from Loris Vestrucci was...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
May 10th 2019Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their hou...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their hou...
How sustainable is luxury, bespoke clothing?
May 8th 2019Sustainability might be a hot topic at the moment, but it’s one I’ve always felt has particular relevance for the Permanent Style audience. As consumers, we care more than average about clothes. We know and w...
How sustainable is luxury, bespoke clothing?
Sustainability might be a hot topic at the moment, but it’s one I’ve always felt has particular relevance for the Permanent Style audience. As consumers, we care more than average about clothes. We know and w...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
May 6th 2019Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in tr...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in tr...
The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio
May 3rd 2019This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it w...
The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio
This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it w...
Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in T...
May 2nd 2019For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, S...
Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in T...
For all readers in Japan - or who happen to be travelling there next month - you are cordially invited to our first Symposium event in the country. The talk will take place on Wednesday, May 22nd in the Quartz Gallery, S...
Latest Posts Continued
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
May 1st 2019A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the sh...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the sh...
Working with craft companies – a talk with Do...
April 30th 2019This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we...
Working with craft companies – a talk with Do...
This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we...
If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...
April 29th 2019These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply o...
If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...
These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply o...
Men need a core casual wardrobe
April 26th 2019Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes – often called a ‘capsule collection’ – to add to those already published on ties, shirts ...
Men need a core casual wardrobe
Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes – often called a ‘capsule collection’ – to add to those already published on ties, shirts ...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived ...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived ...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
April 22nd 2019Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been sho...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been sho...
Featured Post
Media Symposium – The debate
June 20th 2018Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Media Symposium – The debate
Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Latest Posts Continued
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
April 17th 2019This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...
April 15th 2019Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...
Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
April 12th 2019The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium
April 10th 2019I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium
I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
April 8th 2019Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...
Three things that didn't quite work
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...
Three things that didn't quite work
This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
April 3rd 2019This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
April 1st 2019This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...
The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking
March 29th 2019Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...
The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking
Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...
Denim
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
Hi, If you dislike the sheen of satin (which I do too) then I would go with grosgrain. It's more traditional and has a nicer texture. I wouldn't go for self (the same material as the jacket) on a piece like that, personally. On tailors…
Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown
Read the commentsI'm not sure it's a rule, but no I wouldn't normally wear a waistcoat with a jacket like that. Sorry, but I would advise against adding one
Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short
Read the commentsNothing particular, just wash as you would any good knitwear - hand wash cold or on a woollen setting on a machine if you've tried it before and have confidence it is gentle enough. Then roll in a towel to remove most moisture, and dry…
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
Read the commentsI'd imagine they weren't able to make it bespoke, but I'll check.
England and Florence: Understated, rural style
Read the commentsIf you want to avoid crackly, loud synthetic outerwear for camping activities I can recommend Hilltrek clothing. They make in Ventile and various technical variations thereof, and also fleece. The garments are made on Deeside. They will alter the pattern for existing garments to allow…
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
Read the commentsDo you rate tustings or sage brown?
How to buy a leather bag on a budget
Read the comments