Latest Post
Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
March 1st 2021“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And w...
Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And w...
Latest Posts
Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lange Lunes
February 26th 2021Best stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan ...
Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lange Lunes
Best stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan ...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
February 24th 2021Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back o...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back o...
Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?
February 22nd 2021What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled wai...
Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?
What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled wai...
Outfits I got wrong
February 19th 2021Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wea...
Outfits I got wrong
Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wea...
Giving to charity: No Man Walks Alone
February 17th 2021Charitable giving: No Man Walks Alone Runners up: The Anthology, Private White VC I was a little surprised by the cynicism of around this award. Clearly, people are seeing more brands than me using charity (at least p...
Giving to charity: No Man Walks Alone
Charitable giving: No Man Walks Alone Runners up: The Anthology, Private White VC I was a little surprised by the cynicism of around this award. Clearly, people are seeing more brands than me using charity (at least p...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage sportswear
February 15th 2021The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. ...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage sportswear
The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. ...
Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan
February 12th 2021One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be s...
Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan
One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be s...
The future of Crockett & Jones
February 10th 2021Shoe brand of the year: Crockett & Jones Runners up: Edward Green, TLB Crockett & Jones has won our 2021 award for best shoe brand - an accolade intended to recognise a shoemaker that is adapting to this age of...
The future of Crockett & Jones
Shoe brand of the year: Crockett & Jones Runners up: Edward Green, TLB Crockett & Jones has won our 2021 award for best shoe brand - an accolade intended to recognise a shoemaker that is adapting to this age of...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
February 8th 2021When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Mens...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Mens...
Heritage brands at John Simons: Vetra, Dehen, FOB
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John champi...
Heritage brands at John Simons: Vetra, Dehen, FOB
Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John champi...
Latest Posts Continued
The joy of cordovan – and how to wear and maintain it
February 3rd 2021I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (sho...
The joy of cordovan – and how to wear and maintain it
I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (sho...
How clothing kept me sane
February 1st 2021Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind...
How clothing kept me sane
Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind...
How jeans can be altered
January 29th 2021One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...
How jeans can be altered
One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...
My shirt collars
January 27th 2021When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, par...
My shirt collars
When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, par...
John Simons – the shop, the history, the influence
January 25th 2021In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andove...
John Simons – the shop, the history, the influence
In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andove...
Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed
January 24th 2021We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...
Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed
We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring
January 22nd 2021I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring
I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
January 20th 2021This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
January 18th 2021At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...
Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things ageÂ
January 15th 2021When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...
Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things ageÂ
When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review
January 13th 2021Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review
Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...
Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes
January 11th 2021It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...
Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes
It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...
New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!
January 8th 2021Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...
New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!
Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...
Designing the Anthology polo coat
January 6th 2021Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...
Designing the Anthology polo coat
Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
January 4th 2021Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
January 1st 2021The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...
Denim
How jeans can be altered
January 29th 2021One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...
How jeans can be altered
One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
May 18th 2020The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
See all threads
When I first started ordering bespoke I didn't know any better and got matching linings. I suspect the choice can depend on whether one is ordering a suit or a sports jacket or an overcoat. I get mainly jackets, and I like to get a…
Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
Read the commentsI found the loafer most versatile of all, myself. The others are still very versatile, just for different levels of formality. An oxford in suede is not good with jeans, but covers a range of tailoring. A derby is good with jeans and more casual…
My Summer shoes
Read the commentsBeautiful! I really liked it. Thanks for the information
Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand
Read the commentsSome thoughts as a current grad student: Unless I am presenting a paper or attending a larger conference, I find a sports jacket a bit much. But a nice jumper or cardigan (or overshirt or shirt-jacket in the summer), a tailored trouser, and a well-fitting…
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure and sportswear
Read the commentsOne difference is that a previously returned or store-tried 50k watch will not show any signs of having lost its virginity. This is quite different for a leather shoe with leather soles; leather creases and scratches easily. Even with a perfect inventory system it would…
The future of Crockett & Jones
Read the commentsI don't know them well enough to comment really. Sorry Mike
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Read the comments