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Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

July 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unus...

SuitsJuly 17th 2019

Latest Posts

The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...

July 15th 2019

When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...

The inside of a London factory – by Paul of S...

When we covered SEH Kelly last year and talked about the writing of its founder, Paul, some readers commented that they'd like to read more by him. So I asked if he'd write a little piece about the world of London's garm...

July 15th 2019

Earthy, refined colours for summer

July 12th 2019

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...

Earthy, refined colours for summer

Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind o...

Jackets - StyleJuly 12th 2019

Five casual suits: A capsule collection

July 10th 2019

I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...

Five casual suits: A capsule collection

I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commo...

SuitsJuly 10th 2019

Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser

July 8th 2019

Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...

Journalism: Couture and bespoke, the linen trouser

Back in the day, a feature of mine in the Financial Times or similar was enough to justify a full post on Permanent Style. Today, they rarely get a mention. So I thought readers might be interested in being directed to s...

July 8th 2019

Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada

July 5th 2019

Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...

Interview: Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada

Tatsuya Nakamura Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most ...

StyleJuly 5th 2019

The new Lightweight Friday Polo

July 3rd 2019

This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...

The new Lightweight Friday Polo

This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little to...

ShirtsJuly 3rd 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if thei...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

June 28th 2019

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know eve...

Style - SuitsJune 28th 2019

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

June 26th 2019

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS...

June 26th 2019

A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review

June 24th 2019

Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...

A/MARELLI x Chapman camera bag: Review

Adam Marelli, a New York-based friend and photographer (and Leica ambassador among other things) recently designed his perfect camera bag in collaboration with Chapman, here in the UK. The reasons why he did so - and wha...

BagsJune 24th 2019

Latest Posts Continued

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

June 21st 2019

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having...

Casual jacketsJune 21st 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most peop...

Bags - Casual jacketsJune 19th 2019

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

June 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list. It’s a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quie...

June 17th 2019

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather l...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather l...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of ...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of ...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Ciardi jacket in gun-club from Lafayette Saltiel

June 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's ...

Ciardi jacket in gun-club from Lafayette Saltiel

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's ...

Cloth - JacketsJune 10th 2019

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

June 7th 2019

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a...

The guide to summer shirt fabrics

The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a...

ShirtsJune 7th 2019

Which sports-jacket office are you?

June 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flann...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flann...

StyleJune 5th 2019

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

June 3rd 2019

Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But th...

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But th...

TrousersJune 3rd 2019

Giving clothes a new lease of life

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to inve...

Giving clothes a new lease of life

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to inve...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

May 29th 2019

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was ve...

The Japanese Bespoke Symposium, Tokyo

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was ve...

May 29th 2019

Green/black linen suit, with Gieves & Hawkes

May 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it f...

Green/black linen suit, with Gieves & Hawkes

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it f...

SuitsMay 27th 2019

Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability

May 24th 2019

We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we...

Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability

We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we...

May 24th 2019

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

May 22nd 2019

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...

Video: A conversation of cordwainers

Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held i...

ShoesMay 22nd 2019

PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb

May 21st 2019

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...

PS shirts to try in Prologue, Bemer and Whitcomb

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts a...

May 21st 2019

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

May 20th 2019

[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...

The guide to synthetic and performance cloth

[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowne...

ClothMay 20th 2019

Denim

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Denim - ShirtsDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

DenimNovember 16th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Reader questions - ShoesAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018