Latest Post
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
September 20th 2019Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
Latest Posts
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung stingray
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung stingray
So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
September 16th 2019A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
September 9th 2019Last week Swedish friends Oliver Dannefalk and Carl Pers (below) launched a small collection - mostly knitwear - called Rubato. I t’s tasteful, well-made, and (like many new brands today) fills a particular niche o...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
Last week Swedish friends Oliver Dannefalk and Carl Pers (below) launched a small collection - mostly knitwear - called Rubato. I t’s tasteful, well-made, and (like many new brands today) fills a particular niche o...
If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection
September 6th 2019This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular – and now has its own dedicated Guide page here . I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to ...
If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection
This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular – and now has its own dedicated Guide page here . I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to ...
Is bespoke worth it?
September 4th 2019A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report. It made me realise that I rarely set out the case f...
Is bespoke worth it?
A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report. It made me realise that I rarely set out the case f...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby A...
September 2nd 2019I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) bu...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby A...
I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) bu...
The fully fashioned T-shirt
August 30th 2019When I travel, my default these days is a blouson over shirt and trousers. It makes a nice switch from tailoring during the working days - perhaps a little more comfortable, but more importantly just a change that feels...
The fully fashioned T-shirt
When I travel, my default these days is a blouson over shirt and trousers. It makes a nice switch from tailoring during the working days - perhaps a little more comfortable, but more importantly just a change that feels...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
August 28th 2019*Stock update: oatmeal and green are now sold out, brown is still available. Oatmeal is being rewoven and will be ready at the end of September. Please email [email protected] to get first access to the oatmeal....
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
*Stock update: oatmeal and green are now sold out, brown is still available. Oatmeal is being rewoven and will be ready at the end of September. Please email [email protected] to get first access to the oatmeal....
Latest Posts Continued
The dark shirt
August 26th 2019Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of sal...
The dark shirt
Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of sal...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
August 23rd 2019I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the m...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the m...
Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now
August 21st 2019The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. R...
Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now
The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. R...
The PS/Holland & Sherry opening party - and new brands
August 20th 2019The opening party for our Permanent Style Presents shop has gained a bit of a reputation in recent years. Certainly, it's one of the parties each season I enjoy most. This time the party will be co-hosted with Holland &a...
The PS/Holland & Sherry opening party - and new brands
The opening party for our Permanent Style Presents shop has gained a bit of a reputation in recent years. Certainly, it's one of the parties each season I enjoy most. This time the party will be co-hosted with Holland &a...
Fashion terms and what they mean - by G.Bruce Boyer
August 19th 2019Today on Permanent Style, we offer this little palette cleanser of a piece by Bruce Boyer. As ever there is truth in the humour, the sarcastic points highlighting the ever-pressing need of the industry to offer something...
Fashion terms and what they mean - by G.Bruce Boyer
Today on Permanent Style, we offer this little palette cleanser of a piece by Bruce Boyer. As ever there is truth in the humour, the sarcastic points highlighting the ever-pressing need of the industry to offer something...
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
August 16th 2019In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised the...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)
August 14th 2019I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...
Holiday snaps 2019 (Or, no shorts in the city)
I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers fi...
Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello
August 12th 2019Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...
Kindness, sexiness, materialism: Gauthier Borsarello
Gauthier Borsarello is one of the most refreshing people in menswear today. I hope that came across in o ur recent piece on his shops and projects in Paris - including Holiday, Le Vif and L’Etiquette magazine. Wha...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
August 9th 2019How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame,...
Dressing for different walks of life
August 7th 2019Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...
Dressing for different walks of life
Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as impor...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is b...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
August 2nd 2019I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. ...
Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing
July 31st 2019Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...
Interview: Gene Krell, a life in clothing
Gene Krell is a legend. Today the international fashion director for GQ and Vogue in Japan, he ran the seminal glam and dandyism shop Granny Takes a Trip from 1969 and later worked with Vivienne Westwood. He is a punk, a...
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
July 29th 2019Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more wo...
Video: How to pack a suitcase
July 26th 2019For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...
Video: How to pack a suitcase
For most people, the main problem with packing is fitting everything in. If you're carrying a suit, however, you're also faced with the trickier problem of avoiding creasing. I've long used a technique that involves wrap...
What is authenticity?
July 24th 2019I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...
What is authenticity?
I never used to like the word ‘authentic’ as applied to menswear. Back in the years following the 2008 financial crisis, when everyone was looking backwards and terms like ‘heritage’ and ‘c...
Denim
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
The Piccadilly isn't my favourite style of penny loafer - a little high in the vamp for example. I also like the tassels for adding a little extra character/being slightly more unusual
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from Edward Green
Read the commentsZegna will be lighter and finer. It's a different look, sleeker but perhaps more delicate too. And expensive
A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019
Read the commentsHow do they cost?
If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection
Read the commentsHi Chris, No, the Poole suit I had didn't fit better really. They were both very good fits. The price difference is largely the labour being in India for Whitcomb and then the location/rent at Poole.
Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown
Read the commentsMTO is slightly more expensive, yes, though not a big percentage jump. I know, prices have gone up across the board unfortunately, particularly with leather products. As to whether it's better than Real McCoys, it depends a lot on the leather and its cost, and…
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, Lof & Tung cordovan
Read the commentsYes
Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik
Read the comments