Latest Post
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand ...
Latest Posts
Wax Walker in stock - and the fit of vintage knitwear
September 20th 2021During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat. The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ag...
Wax Walker in stock - and the fit of vintage knitwear
During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat. The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ag...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
September 17th 2021I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a ...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a ...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent Style
September 15th 2021Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainabil...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent Style
Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainabil...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
September 13th 2021*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently ...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently ...
Matching checks on a jacket
September 10th 2021Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our ...
Matching checks on a jacket
Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our ...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
September 8th 2021Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series . But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for c...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series . But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for c...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
September 6th 2021Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen ...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen ...
Be open minded. Or, what is style?
September 3rd 2021I believe that core to understanding clothes, and perhaps even to enjoying them, is appreciating styles that are not your own. If you can’t, it closes you off to dozens of ideas - something as simple as the shape ...
Be open minded. Or, what is style?
I believe that core to understanding clothes, and perhaps even to enjoying them, is appreciating styles that are not your own. If you can’t, it closes you off to dozens of ideas - something as simple as the shape ...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
August 30th 2021This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, ...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, ...
Latest Posts Continued
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
August 27th 2021As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
August 25th 2021Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, hou...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, hou...
Reader profile: Manish
August 23rd 2021Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. ...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. ...
Good Art Hlywd: Unexpected craft and beauty
August 20th 2021I was buzzing when I got off the phone with Josh Warner of Good Art (above) last week. It's been a while since I've talked to someone new that has that bright-eyed passion - the enthusiasm of an obsessive creator. He r...
Good Art Hlywd: Unexpected craft and beauty
I was buzzing when I got off the phone with Josh Warner of Good Art (above) last week. It's been a while since I've talked to someone new that has that bright-eyed passion - the enthusiasm of an obsessive creator. He r...
Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André
August 18th 2021André Larnyoh has enviably easy style. It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as...
Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André
André Larnyoh has enviably easy style. It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
August 16th 2021We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half ...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
Why has Italy been so influential?
August 13th 2021The reason Milan became the centre of Italian fashion was Florence and Rome couldn't sort out a fight. Italian clothing itself became successful abroad because people were tired of the 'haughty, arty' French. Spurred b...
Why has Italy been so influential?
The reason Milan became the centre of Italian fashion was Florence and Rome couldn't sort out a fight. Italian clothing itself became successful abroad because people were tired of the 'haughty, arty' French. Spurred b...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
August 11th 2021Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adr...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adr...
Are bespoke shoes worth it?
August 9th 2021Every time I do a review of bespoke shoes, the question comes up as to whether they're worth the money. Whether bespoke shoes in general can really be worth it, given the little issues I often report. My short answer is...
Are bespoke shoes worth it?
Every time I do a review of bespoke shoes, the question comes up as to whether they're worth the money. Whether bespoke shoes in general can really be worth it, given the little issues I often report. My short answer is...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
August 6th 2021By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from w...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from w...
Playing around with white bucks
August 4th 2021During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The s...
Playing around with white bucks
During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The s...
Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review
August 2nd 2021I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side. That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year. Whether it’s with WW Chan , Massura or Ferdinando Ca...
Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review
I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side. That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year. Whether it’s with WW Chan , Massura or Ferdinando Ca...
How to buy a quality rug
July 30th 2021Here's some information and a little story from a recent visit. The biggest factor in a rug's quality is being hand knotted. Familiar territory, really, for men used to thinking of hand-sewn shoes and hand-padded jackets...
How to buy a quality rug
Here's some information and a little story from a recent visit. The biggest factor in a rug's quality is being hand knotted. Familiar territory, really, for men used to thinking of hand-sewn shoes and hand-padded jackets...
The menswear merger: Sportswear and tailoring
July 28th 2021Sportswear brands are adding tailoring to their collections, perhaps as they feel a need to dress up after so many years of sneakers and sweatpants. Tailoring brands - from the opposite direction - are incorporating more...
The menswear merger: Sportswear and tailoring
Sportswear brands are adding tailoring to their collections, perhaps as they feel a need to dress up after so many years of sneakers and sweatpants. Tailoring brands - from the opposite direction - are incorporating more...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
July 26th 2021Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve ne...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve ne...
What are your primary and secondary interests?
July 23rd 2021Two weeks ago, I was looking to get a new storage trunk for our bedroom. So I phoned a friend who knows his antiques and asked his advice. He recommended a couple of dealers, said he was happy to look at any pictures an...
What are your primary and secondary interests?
Two weeks ago, I was looking to get a new storage trunk for our bedroom. So I phoned a friend who knows his antiques and asked his advice. He recommended a couple of dealers, said he was happy to look at any pictures an...
Denim
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
May 12th 2021About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Co...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Co...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
April 21st 2021There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or ...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or ...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
See all threads
Really good article which makes me understand the one thing that baffles me about Brioni …. why they cost so much . Their business model seems to be ‘bespoke RTW’. I suppose , Simon, most people are ‘average’ in dimension so something like this, with…
Brioni bespoke tailoring
Read the commentsVery slickly dressed gentleman. I went straight to his Instagram feed for tips for myself. Great article, keep up the good work. A.P
Reader profile: Manish
Read the commentsThanks Gab, and yes I see that. Most use when you want something that goes between the two (also dog walks etc - hence the name)
Wax Walker back in stock – and the fit of vintage knitwear
Read the commentsHey Vasilis, Black loafers will certainly look good, and if brown suede seems too close to the trousers, then try brown leather instead. Smart white canvas shoes might also be nice. On socks, yes all brown might be a bit too much. In that case…
The Guide to Linen
Read the commentsHi Hayden, That's the biggest issue, perhaps. But also note that it only recommends pressing some parts of the jacket yourself - others, such as the lapel or collar or shoulder, are much better done professionally.
Video: How to press a jacket
Read the commentsOvergrazing is something that is associated with cashmere. It is a well established fact that overgrazing leads to desertification and so adding to climate change. Millennials are more conscious about the environment / what is sustainable and what is not. So I think it is…
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent Style
Read the comments