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Update: the Trunk Show calendar

December 2nd 2016

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely ...

Update: the Trunk Show calendar

It’s been great to see the reaction to our Trunk Show calendar since it launched in September. You’d expect artisans to be keen, given it’s a free way to advertise their travels to Permanent Style readers (surely ...

December 2nd 2016

Latest Posts

The cap

November 30th 2016

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, ...

The cap

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, ...

Accessories - HatsNovember 30th 2016

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki S...

November 28th 2016

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the ho...

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki S...

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the ho...

ShoesNovember 28th 2016

Brand round-up: Alexander Kraft, Loic et Gil, Chris...

November 25th 2016

The next in our regular installment of small brands doing interesting things looks at some ties, handkerchiefs and knitwear. Viola Milano x Alexander Kraft First up is a collaboration between Alexander Kraft and online a...

Brand round-up: Alexander Kraft, Loic et Gil, Chris...

The next in our regular installment of small brands doing interesting things looks at some ties, handkerchiefs and knitwear. Viola Milano x Alexander Kraft First up is a collaboration between Alexander Kraft and online a...

Accessories - Casual wearNovember 25th 2016

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

November 23rd 2016

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a li...

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a li...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 23rd 2016

Sasuke: Master Japanese knife-maker, Sakai, Osaka

November 21st 2016

When we were in Japan last month, Jamie and I tried to see a sprinkling of traditional Japanese craftsmen alongside the usual tailors and shoemakers. This was both for general interest (always interesting to see how thi...

Sasuke: Master Japanese knife-maker, Sakai, Osaka

When we were in Japan last month, Jamie and I tried to see a sprinkling of traditional Japanese craftsmen alongside the usual tailors and shoemakers. This was both for general interest (always interesting to see how thi...

AccessoriesNovember 21st 2016

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

TailoringNovember 18th 2016

Stephen Temkin of Leon Drexler custom hats, Toronto

November 16th 2016

For a home studio and workshop, Stephen Temkin's set up is pretty cool.  He lives in a large house in downtown Toronto, Canada. The work is largely done in the basement (where the ironing and larger equipment is) and t...

Stephen Temkin of Leon Drexler custom hats, Toronto

For a home studio and workshop, Stephen Temkin's set up is pretty cool.  He lives in a large house in downtown Toronto, Canada. The work is largely done in the basement (where the ironing and larger equipment is) and t...

Accessories - HatsNovember 16th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy.  The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy.  The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

Bags - HatsNovember 14th 2016

The A-Z of cloth

November 11th 2016

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and fini...

The A-Z of cloth

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and fini...

ClothNovember 11th 2016

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

November 9th 2016

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available** French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many ou...

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available** French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many ou...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 9th 2016

Featured Post

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 13th 2016

||- Begin Content -||Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, m...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

||- Begin Content -||Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, m...

September 13th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

The style experience of George Wang

November 7th 2016

It’s been a while since we’ve included anyone in this series – which began with Bruce Boyer and Alan See – for which I apologise. The next to be included is George Wang, owner of the BRIO store in Beijing, China...

The style experience of George Wang

It’s been a while since we’ve included anyone in this series – which began with Bruce Boyer and Alan See – for which I apologise. The next to be included is George Wang, owner of the BRIO store in Beijing, China...

StyleNovember 7th 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

Interview: Brunello Cucinelli on formal/informal style

November 2nd 2016

A few weeks ago I was invited by Brunello Cucinelli to visit the HQ in Solomeo. Perhaps surprisingly, when I interviewed him Brunello was one of the most open and unpretentious people I’ve met. He was creative and hon...

Interview: Brunello Cucinelli on formal/informal style

A few weeks ago I was invited by Brunello Cucinelli to visit the HQ in Solomeo. Perhaps surprisingly, when I interviewed him Brunello was one of the most open and unpretentious people I’ve met. He was creative and hon...

StyleNovember 2nd 2016

The guide to worsted suitings

October 31st 2016

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar.  If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are ...

The guide to worsted suitings

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar.  If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are ...

Cloth - October 31st 2016

Brussels craft event

October 30th 2016

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as sever...

Brussels craft event

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as sever...

Accessories - GlassesOctober 30th 2016

Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues o...

October 28th 2016

A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks.  To break it down into bullets: I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban ...

Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues o...

A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks.  To break it down into bullets: I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban ...

StyleOctober 28th 2016

Featured Post

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

November 9th 2016

||- Begin Content -||**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they ...

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

||- Begin Content -||**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they ...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 9th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Ortus bespoke leather goods, Tokyo

October 26th 2016

Ortus leather goods are run by Naoyuki Komatsu (above) from a small leather workshop in Tokyo, just around the corner from Clematis shoes, where Komatsu was based until he set up his own company in 2012.  They are ...

Ortus bespoke leather goods, Tokyo

Ortus leather goods are run by Naoyuki Komatsu (above) from a small leather workshop in Tokyo, just around the corner from Clematis shoes, where Komatsu was based until he set up his own company in 2012.  They are ...

Accessories - BagsOctober 26th 2016

Luca Faloni knitwear – a high-quality staple

October 21st 2016

For the past four months I’ve been wearing and trying out the knitwear of Luca Faloni - an Italian with an online store based here in London. Luca offers quite a broad range of things, including leather goods, scarves ...

Luca Faloni knitwear – a high-quality staple

For the past four months I’ve been wearing and trying out the knitwear of Luca Faloni - an Italian with an online store based here in London. Luca offers quite a broad range of things, including leather goods, scarves ...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 21st 2016

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vic...

October 19th 2016

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers a...

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vic...

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers a...

Finding a tailor - JacketsOctober 19th 2016

The guide to jacketings

October 17th 2016

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what shoul...

The guide to jacketings

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what shoul...

Cloth - TailoringOctober 17th 2016

The Permanent Style trunk show

October 14th 2016

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

The Permanent Style trunk show

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

Bags - GlovesOctober 14th 2016

Friday Polos available again – with new brown...

October 12th 2016

*Many sizes are now sold out. For a breakdown of remaining stock, please see the shop page*   With excitement and not a little relief, given how many people have been asking, I'm glad to say the Friday Polos are now bac...

Friday Polos available again – with new brown...

*Many sizes are now sold out. For a breakdown of remaining stock, please see the shop page*   With excitement and not a little relief, given how many people have been asking, I'm glad to say the Friday Polos are now bac...

October 12th 2016

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

October 11th 2016

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory.  I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motio...

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory.  I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motio...

Oxford - ShoesOctober 11th 2016

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

October 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that...

Jackets - TailoringOctober 10th 2016

Repairing, darning and reviving cashmere: Love Cash...

October 7th 2016

Few things given me more pleasure than looking after good clothes, and being rewarded with a better-lasting and even better-looking wardrobe. This happens most obviously with leather products like shoes and bags, and arg...

Repairing, darning and reviving cashmere: Love Cash...

Few things given me more pleasure than looking after good clothes, and being rewarded with a better-lasting and even better-looking wardrobe. This happens most obviously with leather products like shoes and bags, and arg...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 7th 2016

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of fa...

October 5th 2016

During Alden’s recent trunk show at Trunk Clothiers in London, I chatted to John Happ (Alden’s Director of European Sales) about why he dislikes talking about heritage - and the penny loafers they didn’t make for E...

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of fa...

During Alden’s recent trunk show at Trunk Clothiers in London, I chatted to John Happ (Alden’s Director of European Sales) about why he dislikes talking about heritage - and the penny loafers they didn’t make for E...

Monk - ShoesOctober 5th 2016

Denim

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained cutter...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained cutter...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and thei...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and thei...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 2015