Latest Post
Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed
January 24th 2021We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...
Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed
We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...
Latest Posts
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring
January 22nd 2021I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring
I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
January 20th 2021This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
January 18th 2021At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...
The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style
At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...
Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things age
January 15th 2021When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...
Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things age
When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review
January 13th 2021Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...
Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review
Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...
Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes
January 11th 2021It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...
Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes
It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...
New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!
January 8th 2021Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...
New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!
Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...
Designing the Anthology polo coat
January 6th 2021Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...
Designing the Anthology polo coat
Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
January 4th 2021Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
January 1st 2021The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...
Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns
The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...
Latest Posts Continued
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
December 30th 2020We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it&rsquo...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it&rsquo...
New Friday Polos - black and green
December 28th 2020Shipping and production have not been entirely straightforward in recent weeks, as anyone following the chaotic clash of Covid and Brexit in the UK will be aware. But I’m glad to say we've been able to restock the...
New Friday Polos - black and green
Shipping and production have not been entirely straightforward in recent weeks, as anyone following the chaotic clash of Covid and Brexit in the UK will be aware. But I’m glad to say we've been able to restock the...
The Christmas Quiz!
December 25th 2020**UPDATE: The answers to the quiz are now listed at the bottom of this post. Don't peek if you want to try it out yourself first! The winner of the competition was Mathias Olsen. Well done to him.** This is a spot of fun...
The Christmas Quiz!
**UPDATE: The answers to the quiz are now listed at the bottom of this post. Don't peek if you want to try it out yourself first! The winner of the competition was Mathias Olsen. Well done to him.** This is a spot of fun...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps a...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps a...
The imagery that inspires me, by Oliver Dannefalk
December 21st 2020This is a guest article by Rubato designer Oliver Dannefalk, explaining what the hell he was looking at all the time on his phone. And then showing to everyone. It is a description of how he works, what inspires him, and...
The imagery that inspires me, by Oliver Dannefalk
This is a guest article by Rubato designer Oliver Dannefalk, explaining what the hell he was looking at all the time on his phone. And then showing to everyone. It is a description of how he works, what inspires him, and...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
December 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crew...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crew...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
December 16th 2020Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
December 14th 2020Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t. Implicitly, t...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t. Implicitly, t...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
December 11th 2020The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though,...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though,...
The cold-colour capsule
December 9th 2020I realised recently that an increasing number of my casual clothes fall into a narrow colour range. A good proportion of my favourite things - and certainly combinations - are a mix of brown, cream, black and grey. With...
The cold-colour capsule
I realised recently that an increasing number of my casual clothes fall into a narrow colour range. A good proportion of my favourite things - and certainly combinations - are a mix of brown, cream, black and grey. With...
The perspective of medieval menswear
December 7th 2020I recently saw a presentation by the cultural historical and writer Benjamin Wild (below), on the history of menswear. The talk covered everything from 1300 to the present day, but it was pre-20th Century that was the mo...
The perspective of medieval menswear
I recently saw a presentation by the cultural historical and writer Benjamin Wild (below), on the history of menswear. The talk covered everything from 1300 to the present day, but it was pre-20th Century that was the mo...
Shirt style: Structure and lining
December 4th 2020The next stage in our Guide to Shirts – after the recent pieces on collars and cuffs – is to compare different approaches brands take to the styles of their shirts. There are a few different aspects...
Shirt style: Structure and lining
The next stage in our Guide to Shirts – after the recent pieces on collars and cuffs – is to compare different approaches brands take to the styles of their shirts. There are a few different aspects...
Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review
December 2nd 2020Almost a year ago, back in January, I began the process of making a pair of bespoke shoes with a new outfit in Romania, Petru & Claymoor . Shoe fans might have seen some coverage of the brand over the intervening ye...
Petru & Claymoor bespoke shoes: Review
Almost a year ago, back in January, I began the process of making a pair of bespoke shoes with a new outfit in Romania, Petru & Claymoor . Shoe fans might have seen some coverage of the brand over the intervening ye...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
November 30th 2020In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...
The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
November 27th 2020I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...
The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...
Denim
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
May 18th 2020The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
See all threads
1) I don't wear mine with tailoring, no. I think the carrot-like cut can work with some tailoring, but it's not easy. 2) The mid-wash would work well in that respect yes, though to be honest I don't like the wash that much any more.…
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
Read the commentsI think it's just as good as a first commission. Much more important is that you're asking the tailor to do something that they've made before - and that you've seen the final result of, tried, and like. That wasn't the case here, and much…
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6
Read the commentsNo worries Matt, pleased you think so. Yes, Cad & The Dandy own a similar operation in India - very close to that run by Whitcomb. In fact, Cad not only uses this workshop for their own work, but provides the service to other tailors…
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring
Read the commentsYes, not an easy one. I don't have that colour myself, but I would suggest navy first, and then perhaps something with some vibrancy like the polo, eg a forest green? Those polos aren't really designed to go under tailoring, given the lower collar.
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
Read the commentsYes. An off-white T-shirt isn't very flattering worn on its own, without the knitwear over the top. The same goes for most undershirts that are designed not to be seen (bigger in the US). They tend to be off-whites, skin colours, etc. Yes, the shirt…
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath
Read the commentsIf you would consider this type of coat as an overcoat, then I'd go with this. The simple, raglan style makes it very well suited to casual clothing as well as tailoring. See article here too on the types of overcoats
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
Read the comments