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Kimonos and their silk: Bespoke at Motoji, Tokyo

February 20th 2017

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fasci...

Kimonos and their silk: Bespoke at Motoji, Tokyo

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fasci...

Casual wearFebruary 20th 2017

Latest Posts

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

February 17th 2017

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel  For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmante...

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel  For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmante...

Finding a tailor - TailoringFebruary 17th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs...

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

Cromford: Leather jacket alterations and bespoke

February 13th 2017

At the end of last year I got to know the new owners of the General Leather Company on Chiltern Street - now renamed Cromford Leather. This was exciting because they not only make leather and suede jackets on the premise...

Cromford: Leather jacket alterations and bespoke

At the end of last year I got to know the new owners of the General Leather Company on Chiltern Street - now renamed Cromford Leather. This was exciting because they not only make leather and suede jackets on the premise...

Casual jackets - Casual wearFebruary 13th 2017

Pop-up shop: The brands and the opening party

February 9th 2017

Following last week's announcement of our pop-up shop on Savile Row - under the banner 'Permanent Style presents' - here are some details of the shop and the brands.  I also include an invitation, above, to any readers ...

Pop-up shop: The brands and the opening party

Following last week's announcement of our pop-up shop on Savile Row - under the banner 'Permanent Style presents' - here are some details of the shop and the brands.  I also include an invitation, above, to any readers ...

February 9th 2017

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

February 8th 2017

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct con...

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct con...

Finding a tailor - TailoringFebruary 8th 2017

The Friday Polos are back in stock

February 6th 2017

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey.  You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes ...

The Friday Polos are back in stock

Our ever-popular Friday Polos are back, in the four colours of navy, brown, green and light grey.  You can buy them on the shop page here. Please don't forget to include the size you want and the colour(s) in the notes ...

February 6th 2017

482,000 and counting

February 3rd 2017

Permanent Style has never been about the numbers.  It is about a highly engaged, (scarily) loyal, knowledgeable group of readers that want to dress well and understand quality clothing.  But it's always nice to see th...

482,000 and counting

Permanent Style has never been about the numbers.  It is about a highly engaged, (scarily) loyal, knowledgeable group of readers that want to dress well and understand quality clothing.  But it's always nice to see th...

Casual wearFebruary 3rd 2017

Well this is exciting

February 2nd 2017

After several months of planning (and stress) I'm pleased to say that we finally announce the launch of the first Permanent Style pop-up shop.  It will be held in a rather special location - numbers 34 and 35 Savile Row...

Well this is exciting

After several months of planning (and stress) I'm pleased to say that we finally announce the launch of the first Permanent Style pop-up shop.  It will be held in a rather special location - numbers 34 and 35 Savile Row...

February 2nd 2017

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

January 31st 2017

As requested by readers, here is the video coverage we took on the night at our Huntsman dinner a couple of weeks ago.  The sound quality isn't perfect (our fault) but you can certainly hear the short explanation I gave...

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

As requested by readers, here is the video coverage we took on the night at our Huntsman dinner a couple of weeks ago.  The sound quality isn't perfect (our fault) but you can certainly hear the short explanation I gave...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 31st 2017

Featured Post

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 13th 2016

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

September 13th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

January 30th 2017

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London.  Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache...

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London.  Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache...

Finding a tailor - SuitsJanuary 30th 2017

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

January 27th 2017

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about.  To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts an...

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about.  To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts an...

ClothJanuary 27th 2017

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

January 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today.  Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a sma...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today.  Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a sma...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 26th 2017

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

January 25th 2017

Meekal Hashmi Last week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going to be, it ...

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

Meekal Hashmi Last week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going to be, it ...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 25th 2017

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

January 23rd 2017

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When ...

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When ...

ClothJanuary 23rd 2017

Mark Cho of The Armoury on independent retail

January 20th 2017

Following on from Wednesday's post on the Symposium discussion, here are Mark Cho's specific responses to some of the questions. Mark wrote the below in preparation for the talk (bless him) and he makes some interesting ...

Mark Cho of The Armoury on independent retail

Following on from Wednesday's post on the Symposium discussion, here are Mark Cho's specific responses to some of the questions. Mark wrote the below in preparation for the talk (bless him) and he makes some interesting ...

January 20th 2017

Featured Post

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

November 9th 2016

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 9th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Retailers Symposium: The discussion

January 18th 2017

During my lifetime, there has been a steep fall in the quality and range of menswear retail around the world. Designer brands have expanded aggressively; independent multi-brand shops have closed; and department stores h...

Retailers Symposium: The discussion

During my lifetime, there has been a steep fall in the quality and range of menswear retail around the world. Designer brands have expanded aggressively; independent multi-brand shops have closed; and department stores h...

January 18th 2017

Retailers Symposium: The party pics

January 17th 2017

Plaza Uomo editor-in-chief Konrad Olsson with Alessandro SquarziHolding our Symposium with Plaza Uomo mixed up the crowd rather at our after-party.  Here are some of the dressed-up men (and women). Full piece on the Sym...

Retailers Symposium: The party pics

Plaza Uomo editor-in-chief Konrad Olsson with Alessandro SquarziHolding our Symposium with Plaza Uomo mixed up the crowd rather at our after-party.  Here are some of the dressed-up men (and women). Full piece on the Sym...

January 17th 2017

Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore

January 16th 2017

The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore. I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') an...

Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore

The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore. I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') an...

StyleJanuary 16th 2017

Retailers Symposium: The speakers

January 13th 2017

George Wang: Brio, BeijingAs with previous Symposia, here is a preview of next week's coverage of the Retailers Symposium, with portraits of our six speakers.  I have to say, they were the best six people yet in terms o...

Retailers Symposium: The speakers

George Wang: Brio, BeijingAs with previous Symposia, here is a preview of next week's coverage of the Retailers Symposium, with portraits of our six speakers.  I have to say, they were the best six people yet in terms o...

January 13th 2017

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the uni...

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer monks

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the uni...

Monk - ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

January 9th 2017

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying.  Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying.  Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Casual wear - TailoringJanuary 9th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy...

Finding a tailor - TailoringJanuary 6th 2017

The sweater over the shoulders

January 4th 2017

We took this picture of Patrick Johnson, founder of P Johnson, last month. It occurred to me at the time how hard it is to wear a sweater over the shoulders, as Patrick does. It's something I rarely do, and it's probably...

The sweater over the shoulders

We took this picture of Patrick Johnson, founder of P Johnson, last month. It occurred to me at the time how hard it is to wear a sweater over the shoulders, as Patrick does. It's something I rarely do, and it's probably...

Casual wear - KnitwearJanuary 4th 2017

The importance of fit

January 2nd 2017

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anymo...

The importance of fit

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anymo...

TailoringJanuary 2nd 2017

Private White VC – Factory visit

December 30th 2016

I don’t write about Private White anywhere near enough. I did a piece last year on their outerwear, which remains their best category, but frankly you could a separate post on almost every coat they sell. The Twin Trac...

Private White VC – Factory visit

I don’t write about Private White anywhere near enough. I did a piece last year on their outerwear, which remains their best category, but frankly you could a separate post on almost every coat they sell. The Twin Trac...

Casual wearDecember 30th 2016

Denim

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. ...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained cutter...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained cutter...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016