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How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

November 30th 2020

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...

JacketsNovember 30th 2020

Latest Posts

The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

November 27th 2020

I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...

The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...

November 27th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

What is comfort?

November 23rd 2020

Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently . Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As in,...

What is comfort?

Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently . Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As in,...

November 23rd 2020

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of ...

The mock neck

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of ...

KnitwearNovember 20th 2020

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

November 18th 2020

This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the ...

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the ...

SuitsNovember 18th 2020

Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring

November 16th 2020

This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd w...

Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring

This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd w...

Alterations and care - VideoNovember 16th 2020

Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)

November 13th 2020

A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful th...

Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)

A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful th...

ShirtsNovember 13th 2020

Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Rubato

November 11th 2020

While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used ...

Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Rubato

While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used ...

November 11th 2020

Carmina unlined chukka boots: Review

November 9th 2020

There is one way in which this review is necessarily unfair. The vast majority of my shoes are at a higher quality level than these Carmina chukkas, and therefore my context will be different to many potential customers....

Carmina unlined chukka boots: Review

There is one way in which this review is necessarily unfair. The vast majority of my shoes are at a higher quality level than these Carmina chukkas, and therefore my context will be different to many potential customers....

ShoesNovember 9th 2020

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

November 6th 2020

Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out th...

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out th...

CoatsNovember 6th 2020

Latest Posts Continued

The Winter Top 5, 2020: End, GRP, Acronym...

November 4th 2020

Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely tra...

The Winter Top 5, 2020: End, GRP, Acronym...

Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely tra...

Casual clothing - ShoesNovember 4th 2020

The value we place on clothes: Philip Warkander

November 2nd 2020

Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies. We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip cov...

The value we place on clothes: Philip Warkander

Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies. We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip cov...

November 2nd 2020

The tucked-in T-shirt

October 30th 2020

When I was a teenager, nothing seemed more sad or old than wearing a T-shirt tucked into trousers. Granted, the style of the day was loose, grunge-inspired clothing, with oversized flannel shirts and baggy knitwear. But...

The tucked-in T-shirt

When I was a teenager, nothing seemed more sad or old than wearing a T-shirt tucked into trousers. Granted, the style of the day was loose, grunge-inspired clothing, with oversized flannel shirts and baggy knitwear. But...

Casual clothingOctober 30th 2020

Introducing: The Wax Walker

October 28th 2020

Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...

Introducing: The Wax Walker

Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...

CoatsOctober 28th 2020

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

October 26th 2020

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...

JacketsOctober 26th 2020

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat

October 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...

CoatsOctober 23rd 2020

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

October 21st 2020

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...

Alterations and care - TrousersOctober 21st 2020

New book: 'Bespoke Style'

October 19th 2020

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...

New book: 'Bespoke Style'

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...

SuitsOctober 19th 2020

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

October 16th 2020

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...

October 16th 2020

Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future

October 14th 2020

Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...

Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future

Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...

Umbrellas and glovesOctober 14th 2020

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath

October 12th 2020

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...

KnitwearOctober 12th 2020

Postcard from Stockholm

October 9th 2020

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...

Postcard from Stockholm

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...

October 9th 2020

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

October 7th 2020

With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...

ShirtsOctober 7th 2020

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

October 5th 2020

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...

Knitwear - TiesOctober 5th 2020

Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau

October 2nd 2020

I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...

Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau

I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...

StyleOctober 2nd 2020

My beard

September 30th 2020

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I&rs...

My beard

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I&rs...

September 30th 2020

Denim

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

Reader Qs

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019