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Saic: bespoke bag-maker Hiroyuki Murata

September 22nd 2017

There is no shortage of Japanese artisans in Florence. But one that hasn’t garnered much attention yet is Hiroyuki Murata, who goes by the brand name Saic Firenze. Hiroyuki-san and his wife have a small workshop outsid...

Saic: bespoke bag-maker Hiroyuki Murata

There is no shortage of Japanese artisans in Florence. But one that hasn’t garnered much attention yet is Hiroyuki Murata, who goes by the brand name Saic Firenze. Hiroyuki-san and his wife have a small workshop outsid...

September 22nd 2017

Latest Posts

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

Permanent Style trench coat: Alterations and waitin...

September 19th 2017

Many thanks to everyone that bought our trench coat last week. The response was wonderful, and as you will have been able to see, we have sold out.   We are now putting together a waiting list, which readers can be adde...

Permanent Style trench coat: Alterations and waitin...

Many thanks to everyone that bought our trench coat last week. The response was wonderful, and as you will have been able to see, we have sold out.   We are now putting together a waiting list, which readers can be adde...

September 19th 2017

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

September 18th 2017

I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. ...

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. ...

Tailoring - TrousersSeptember 18th 2017

The Permanent Style trench coat – new stock a...

September 14th 2017

*Check the Shop page for stock levels* So, I've been on the phone to the factory...  One of the great things about working with a brand with its factory - like Private White VC - is that it can be more responsive and f...

The Permanent Style trench coat – new stock a...

*Check the Shop page for stock levels* So, I've been on the phone to the factory...  One of the great things about working with a brand with its factory - like Private White VC - is that it can be more responsive and f...

September 14th 2017

Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat

September 13th 2017

*Check  the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop...

Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat

*Check  the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 13th 2017

You are the interviewer

September 12th 2017

A couple of weeks ago, readers expressed interest in seeing me interviewed, with suggested questions including 'where do you store everything', 'is a blog sustainable' and 'do you have any regrets about reviews'. I tho...

You are the interviewer

A couple of weeks ago, readers expressed interest in seeing me interviewed, with suggested questions including 'where do you store everything', 'is a blog sustainable' and 'do you have any regrets about reviews'. I tho...

September 12th 2017

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

September 11th 2017

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up mos...

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up mos...

Cloth - TailoringSeptember 11th 2017

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

September 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Li...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Li...

Accessories - GlassesSeptember 8th 2017

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

September 6th 2017

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are ...

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are ...

Casual wear - JacketsSeptember 6th 2017

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

September 4th 2017

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored ja...

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored ja...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 4th 2017

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

September 1st 2017

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring.  They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest ...

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring.  They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest ...

Alterations and maintenance - TailoringSeptember 1st 2017

Italian aristocracy: Black and white

August 30th 2017

Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie.  The  p...

Italian aristocracy: Black and white

Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie.  The  p...

StyleAugust 30th 2017

Factory visit: Albini shirtings

August 28th 2017

Although we’ve covered several mills over the years on Permanent Style (such as Pennine, Loro Piana, Robert Noble and VBC), I’ve never visited a shirting mill. The fact that our first one was Albini was pure coincide...

Factory visit: Albini shirtings

Although we’ve covered several mills over the years on Permanent Style (such as Pennine, Loro Piana, Robert Noble and VBC), I’ve never visited a shirting mill. The fact that our first one was Albini was pure coincide...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesAugust 28th 2017

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

August 25th 2017

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little E...

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little E...

Jackets - SuitsAugust 25th 2017

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

August 23rd 2017

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with menswe...

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with menswe...

AccessoriesAugust 23rd 2017

A history of modern perfume

August 21st 2017

There is no such thing as masculine perfume, or feminine perfume. Men used to wear rose scents; women wore cologne. The idea that fragrance can be divided into male and female is purely a product of 50 years of marketing...

A history of modern perfume

There is no such thing as masculine perfume, or feminine perfume. Men used to wear rose scents; women wore cologne. The idea that fragrance can be divided into male and female is purely a product of 50 years of marketing...

PerfumeAugust 21st 2017

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

August 18th 2017

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Casual wear - DenimAugust 18th 2017

How to dress for very hot weather

August 16th 2017

As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at t...

How to dress for very hot weather

As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at t...

Jackets - LoaferAugust 16th 2017

Response from P Johnson

August 15th 2017

Patrick Johnson sent me this response yesterday, in reaction to the review last week and comments that followed.  I make no comment on it, and I don't think it's worth going into the questions or issues all over again....

Response from P Johnson

Patrick Johnson sent me this response yesterday, in reaction to the review last week and comments that followed.  I make no comment on it, and I don't think it's worth going into the questions or issues all over again....

August 15th 2017

Wear a jacket

August 14th 2017

Dressing well becomes a matter of habit, over the years. You get used to wearing long socks, or high trousers, or being draped in slightly heavier cloth. But these habits have to be instilled. One I find most powerful to...

Wear a jacket

Dressing well becomes a matter of habit, over the years. You get used to wearing long socks, or high trousers, or being draped in slightly heavier cloth. But these habits have to be instilled. One I find most powerful to...

JacketsAugust 14th 2017

Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer

August 11th 2017

Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative as...

Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer

Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative as...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 11th 2017

P Johnson tailoring – Review

August 9th 2017

As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have...

P Johnson tailoring – Review

As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have...

Jackets - TailoringAugust 9th 2017

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday...

Accessories - BagsAugust 7th 2017

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

August 4th 2017

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But h...

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But h...

Jackets - OvercoatsAugust 4th 2017

Interview: Isabel Ettedgui, Connolly

August 2nd 2017

*For the full article on Connolly, its designs and collections, click here* Permanent Style: Good to see you Izzy. It’s great to have Connolly open in London again - there are still so few independent shops offering th...

Interview: Isabel Ettedgui, Connolly

*For the full article on Connolly, its designs and collections, click here* Permanent Style: Good to see you Izzy. It’s great to have Connolly open in London again - there are still so few independent shops offering th...

August 2nd 2017

The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton

July 31st 2017

*UPDATE: Edward Sexton have just confirmed they will producing a ready-to-wear version this Autumn/Winter, probably in flannel, price around £600* One of the more unusual bespoke commissions I made over the past six mon...

The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton

*UPDATE: Edward Sexton have just confirmed they will producing a ready-to-wear version this Autumn/Winter, probably in flannel, price around £600* One of the more unusual bespoke commissions I made over the past six mon...

Tailoring - TrousersJuly 31st 2017

Denim

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

August 18th 2017

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Casual wear - DenimAugust 18th 2017

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 26th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016