Latest Post
The vintage industry today: An interview with Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers
October 18th 2019Brian Davis runs the Brooklyn-based men’s vintage store Wooden Sleepers. As part of this week’s look at vintage clothing, I spoke to him about the industry side of vintage – how he got started in it, th...
The vintage industry today: An interview with Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers
Brian Davis runs the Brooklyn-based men’s vintage store Wooden Sleepers. As part of this week’s look at vintage clothing, I spoke to him about the industry side of vintage – how he got started in it, th...
Latest Posts
How to buy vintage clothing
October 16th 2019Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade. Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it&rsq...
How to buy vintage clothing
Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade. Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it&rsq...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
October 14th 2019This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on F...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on F...
Marrkt sale: Finding a good home for my second-hand
October 11th 2019Few things annoy me more than waste. I know there are more important reasons to support the selling or donation of second-hand clothes: sustainability, accessibility, the environment and so on. But it's waste that irrit...
Marrkt sale: Finding a good home for my second-hand
Few things annoy me more than waste. I know there are more important reasons to support the selling or donation of second-hand clothes: sustainability, accessibility, the environment and so on. But it's waste that irrit...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
October 9th 2019Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recent...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recent...
The demise of the influencer?
October 7th 2019There have been some signs recently that the era of the influencer has peaked. In a recent Business of Fashion article , brands and PR agencies talked about how expensive Instagram has become. “If Instagram launch...
The demise of the influencer?
There have been some signs recently that the era of the influencer has peaked. In a recent Business of Fashion article , brands and PR agencies talked about how expensive Instagram has become. “If Instagram launch...
New York Symposium, with Alan Flusser and Sid Mashburn
October 5th 2019I'm delighted to say that the next New York Symposium will be held in just under three weeks - with Alan Flusser, Sid Mashburn, Todd Snyder and Nick Sullivan. It is on Thursday October 24th, at Town Stages in Tribeca fro...
New York Symposium, with Alan Flusser and Sid Mashburn
I'm delighted to say that the next New York Symposium will be held in just under three weeks - with Alan Flusser, Sid Mashburn, Todd Snyder and Nick Sullivan. It is on Thursday October 24th, at Town Stages in Tribeca fro...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
October 4th 2019These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive,...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive,...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
October 2nd 2019This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any ot...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any ot...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
September 30th 2019This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other clot...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other clot...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman Amel
September 27th 2019The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a su...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman Amel
The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a su...
Latest Posts Continued
My tattoo
This should be a fun one. I doubt anyone will have strong feelings about it at all. A few weeks ago I got a tattoo on my forearm, and I thought readers might be interested in hearing why. It is something I took extremely...
Suit style 6: Buttons
September 23rd 2019This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good butto...
Suit style 6: Buttons
This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good butto...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
September 20th 2019Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung cordovan
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung cordovan
So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
September 16th 2019A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
September 9th 2019Last week Swedish friends Oliver Dannefalk and Carl Pers (below) launched a small collection - mostly knitwear - called Rubato. I t’s tasteful, well-made, and (like many new brands today) fills a particular niche o...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
Last week Swedish friends Oliver Dannefalk and Carl Pers (below) launched a small collection - mostly knitwear - called Rubato. I t’s tasteful, well-made, and (like many new brands today) fills a particular niche o...
If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection
September 6th 2019This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular – and now has its own dedicated Guide page here . I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to ...
If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection
This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular – and now has its own dedicated Guide page here . I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to ...
Is bespoke worth it?
September 4th 2019A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report. It made me realise that I rarely set out the case f...
Is bespoke worth it?
A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report. It made me realise that I rarely set out the case f...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby A...
September 2nd 2019I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) bu...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby A...
I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) bu...
The fully fashioned T-shirt
August 30th 2019When I travel, my default these days is a blouson over shirt and trousers. It makes a nice switch from tailoring during the working days - perhaps a little more comfortable, but more importantly just a change that feels...
The fully fashioned T-shirt
When I travel, my default these days is a blouson over shirt and trousers. It makes a nice switch from tailoring during the working days - perhaps a little more comfortable, but more importantly just a change that feels...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
August 28th 2019*Stock update: oatmeal and green are now sold out, brown is still available. Oatmeal is being rewoven and will be ready at the end of September. Please email [email protected] to get first access to the oatmeal....
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
*Stock update: oatmeal and green are now sold out, brown is still available. Oatmeal is being rewoven and will be ready at the end of September. Please email [email protected] to get first access to the oatmeal....
The dark shirt
August 26th 2019Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of sal...
The dark shirt
Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of sal...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
August 23rd 2019I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the m...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the m...
Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now
August 21st 2019The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. R...
Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now
The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. R...
Denim
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
I think it can often seem like that, but it's also often less narrow in its combinations because it's not aiming for elegance - it's the quietness and subtlety behind elegant dressing that leads to a lot of the rules or guidelines we normally talk…
The vintage industry: Interview with Wooden Sleepers
Read the commentsIt would certainly help, yes, but you're basically trying to make the best of a bad deal. A jacket in another woollen that wasn't finished in the same way as a flannel would always look better.
The Guide to Tweed
Read the commentsI did too. Just another reason to be impressed with a company like Loro Piana that has its own facilities for research, design, and production. LP is simply at a different level, but that’s not cheap.
Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana
Read the commentsIt's an interesting area. I think the biggest issue is that there's a huge range of quality, and often an assumption that it's all better than today when it's often not. But some things, particularly materials, are often better in terms of being hardier and…
How to buy vintage clothing: Three experts give their tips
Read the commentsI really prefer non-branding (labels mostly kill the product in my opinion). Please don't start labeling!
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
Read the commentsPerhaps I’m missing something, but having had a look at the website, I cannot see any explanation as to how our unwanted secondhand clothes are to be delivered, whether there are any brands that the site does not want, and what the commission rate is.…
Marrkt sale: Finding a good home for my second-hand clothes
Read the comments