Latest Post
Some interesting Pitti picks
July 1st 2022It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...
Some interesting Pitti picks
It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...
Latest Posts
The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online
June 29th 2022I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...
The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online
I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
June 27th 2022By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...
Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review
June 24th 2022Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...
Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review
Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
June 22nd 2022This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...
Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys
June 20th 2022By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...
Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys
By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...
Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
June 15th 2022Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...
How to avoid getting burnt out
June 13th 2022It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...
How to avoid getting burnt out
It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...
The slouchy cardigan
June 10th 2022Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...
The slouchy cardigan
Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...
Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later
June 8th 2022Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...
Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later
Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...
Latest Posts Continued
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
June 6th 2022By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in tradition...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in tradition...
Filson briefcase: How great things age
June 3rd 2022Of all the things we cover in the ‘How great things age’ series , a bag such as this probably has the most potential – because it is made of canvas, leather and brass. All those three materials ag...
Filson briefcase: How great things age
Of all the things we cover in the ‘How great things age’ series , a bag such as this probably has the most potential – because it is made of canvas, leather and brass. All those three materials ag...
Fitting a bespoke jacket - in stone-washed linen
June 1st 2022The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle ...
Fitting a bespoke jacket - in stone-washed linen
The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle ...
Brut Archives, Paris: Evolving vintage
May 30th 2022Brut is an interesting French brand, and store. Since it was founded by Paul Ben Chemhoun (below) in 2012, it has evolved from a vintage shop, into a home for rescued and reworked clothing, and now its own brand. When I...
Brut Archives, Paris: Evolving vintage
Brut is an interesting French brand, and store. Since it was founded by Paul Ben Chemhoun (below) in 2012, it has evolved from a vintage shop, into a home for rescued and reworked clothing, and now its own brand. When I...
The guayabera shirt: A report from our man in Mexico
May 27th 2022By Manish Puri If the average PS reader is anything like me (and after nearly a decade of reading I’ve no reason to believe they’re not) then the standard holiday wish list might read something like: good foo...
The guayabera shirt: A report from our man in Mexico
By Manish Puri If the average PS reader is anything like me (and after nearly a decade of reading I’ve no reason to believe they’re not) then the standard holiday wish list might read something like: good foo...
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
May 25th 2022A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
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Latest Posts Continued
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
May 23rd 2022This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about...
Can you look good in cheap clothes?
May 20th 2022Is it possible to look good in cheaper clothes? Absolutely. But that doesn’t mean you can’t look better (in some ways) with better quality ones, or that there aren’t other reasons for choosing them. Th...
Can you look good in cheap clothes?
Is it possible to look good in cheaper clothes? Absolutely. But that doesn’t mean you can’t look better (in some ways) with better quality ones, or that there aren’t other reasons for choosing them. Th...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: ReviewÂ
May 18th 2022This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Ma...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: ReviewÂ
This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Ma...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dr...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dr...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer restocks)
May 13th 2022This is the new colour of the PS Linen Overshirt - a pale olive green. I love it, but it is a touch unusual so I thought it was worth shooting with different colours, just to illustrate how I think it can work particular...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer restocks)
This is the new colour of the PS Linen Overshirt - a pale olive green. I love it, but it is a touch unusual so I thought it was worth shooting with different colours, just to illustrate how I think it can work particular...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at A&S
May 11th 2022When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rathe...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at A&S
When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rathe...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
May 9th 2022This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account fo...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account fo...
The English Country House Look
May 6th 2022I like the way my tattered old baseball cap makes an overcoat look, not just look less formal, but more human. I like the varied hues of my old Oundles not just because they’re beautiful, but because they speak of ...
The English Country House Look
I like the way my tattered old baseball cap makes an overcoat look, not just look less formal, but more human. I like the varied hues of my old Oundles not just because they’re beautiful, but because they speak of ...
Reader profile: Patrick
May 4th 2022Patrick Dawson is a retired news correspondent, now living in London. During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC corresponden...
Reader profile: Patrick
Patrick Dawson is a retired news correspondent, now living in London. During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC corresponden...
This feels like me
May 2nd 2022I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not e...
This feels like me
I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not e...
Denim
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
May 25th 2022A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
January 19th 2022Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...
Reader profile: Mattia
January 17th 2022I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
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It doesn't stretch that much, no, because of the density, but I wouldn't call it stiff either. It has a lot of body, because it is made very slowly. You can stretch it a little quite naturally as a result, but it won't stretch a…
Introducing: The tapered T-shirt
Read the commentsI don't, though it does look nice from what I've seen (in other colours)
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
Read the commentsIf you mean the point of Pitti, John, it's about a wide range of styles, including more casual clothing and streetwear, and not just things more normally featured on PS.
Some interesting Pitti picks
Read the commentsTrue! That would be fun
How to avoid getting burnt out
Read the commentsIf they know the fabric, they should do, and Luca does know this oxford well. Still, worth checking with him just in case
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
Read the commentsI have heard of them, but I haven't tried them. Pony leather is often a name for just hair-on-hide cow leather.
Why I’m wearing more belts
Read the comments