Latest Post
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
February 18th 2019I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...
Latest Posts
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
February 15th 2019The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
February 13th 2019While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...
Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…
February 12th 2019The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...
Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…
The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
February 11th 2019They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
February 8th 2019The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...
One million readers on Permanent Style
February 5th 2019In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...
One million readers on Permanent Style
In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...
Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch
February 4th 2019Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...
Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch
Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...
Strong colour in accessories
February 1st 2019The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...
Strong colour in accessories
The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
January 30th 2019Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...
Latest Posts Continued
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
January 29th 2019This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...
Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn
January 28th 2019To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Step...
Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn
To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Step...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
January 25th 2019I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suite...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suite...
Video: How to care for wool knitwear
January 23rd 2019When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel...
Video: How to care for wool knitwear
When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel...
Pop-up brands announced: Adret, Prologue, Anthology
January 22nd 2019In the past week we have confirmed three new brands for the pop-up shop on Savile Row: Adret, Prologue and The Anthology. Hong Kong tailor and shop Prologue will be there in week 1 (February 19 to 23), while The Antholog...
Pop-up brands announced: Adret, Prologue, Anthology
In the past week we have confirmed three new brands for the pop-up shop on Savile Row: Adret, Prologue and The Anthology. Hong Kong tailor and shop Prologue will be there in week 1 (February 19 to 23), while The Antholog...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
January 21st 2019In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don&rsqu...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don&rsqu...
Featured Post
Media Symposium – The debate
June 20th 2018Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Media Symposium – The debate
Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Latest Posts Continued
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
January 16th 2019So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer...
Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer...
The Permanent Style Awards 2019
January 14th 2019What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus th...
The Permanent Style Awards 2019
What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus th...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...
January 11th 2019I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather p...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...
I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather p...
New pop-up shop – with Bryceland’s, Opt...
January 7th 2019I'm very happy to say that Permanent Style Presents will be back for another opening at the end of February. The pop-up shop, now its fourth incarnation, will be on Savile Row for two weeks from February 19th. We will be...
New pop-up shop – with Bryceland’s, Opt...
I'm very happy to say that Permanent Style Presents will be back for another opening at the end of February. The pop-up shop, now its fourth incarnation, will be on Savile Row for two weeks from February 19th. We will be...
How to layer knitwear
January 4th 2019Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt. And stylish because it looks so relaxed and casual, yet unusual.
How to layer knitwear
Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt. And stylish because it looks so relaxed and casual, yet unusual.
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Everyday Denim cloth back in stock
December 31st 2018On the Permanent Style shop we're gradually moving more things into constant stock, as the size of the audience supports it. One of the things that had been unavailable for a while was the Everyday Denim fabric, an exclu...
Everyday Denim cloth back in stock
On the Permanent Style shop we're gradually moving more things into constant stock, as the size of the audience supports it. One of the things that had been unavailable for a while was the Everyday Denim fabric, an exclu...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...
December 28th 2018You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admire...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...
You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admire...
Merry Christmas everyone
December 25th 2018Merry Christmas everybody. Here's hoping you're wrapped up in the warmth of family and friends. And not spending all day on Instagram. Normal service resumes on Friday. Photo: Christmassy colours, courtesy of Dunhill bag...
Merry Christmas everyone
Merry Christmas everybody. Here's hoping you're wrapped up in the warmth of family and friends. And not spending all day on Instagram. Normal service resumes on Friday. Photo: Christmassy colours, courtesy of Dunhill bag...
Denim
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
November 12th 2018Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots an...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots an...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...
September 26th 2018One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jack...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo de ...
One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jack...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
Wow. Ok, thank you that's really good to know. I'll get the development guys to look at it again
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
Read the commentsNot at all, an interesting one. Fortunately, covered at length in this post. You may also like the other posts in that Style Rules series.
Suit style 3: The double breasted
Read the commentsHey Jonny. From the point of the gorge (where the lapel and collar meet) to the shoulder seam
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
Read the commentsTo be honest I can't remember JB, but we might have been saying different things, eg I just meant notch lapels, but he means peaks as well, double breasted, shawl etc?
Response from P Johnson
Read the commentsHi Jason No, I wouldn't do anything differently, other than maybe pick a slightly lighter colour of flannel so it wasn't so formal. I'd put Sexton close to Chittleborough in terms of style. For a more standard style, pick between classic structured style like Richard…
Edward Sexton grey flannel suit
Read the commentsNot without rather a lot of work
Pommella bespoke trousers – Review
Read the comments