Latest Post
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
October 4th 2024For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew mak...
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew mak...
Latest Posts
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
October 2nd 2024At the beginning of the year, I asked readers if they had a Wax Walker we could feature as part of our ‘Dry January’ project. We were focusing on how things age and become more beautiful with wear, and wax ja...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
At the beginning of the year, I asked readers if they had a Wax Walker we could feature as part of our ‘Dry January’ project. We were focusing on how things age and become more beautiful with wear, and wax ja...
Belt capsule guide: The basics
September 30th 2024There’s been a lot more interest in belts with smarter clothing in recent years - something I highlighted and explained my reasoning for in this article . But we’ve never done a ‘wardrobe building&rsqu...
Belt capsule guide: The basics
There’s been a lot more interest in belts with smarter clothing in recent years - something I highlighted and explained my reasoning for in this article . But we’ve never done a ‘wardrobe building&rsqu...
London pop-up(s)! Details, New York and product update
September 27th 2024It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will ...
London pop-up(s)! Details, New York and product update
It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will ...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
September 25th 2024One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dra...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dra...
Cheyul: Traditional Korean lacquer craft
September 23rd 2024Every time we go on a trip to a new country, we try to cover a bit of the local non-menswear craft alongside the usual tailoring, shirtmaking and shoemaking. When we were in Japan a couple of years ago, we visited the m...
Cheyul: Traditional Korean lacquer craft
Every time we go on a trip to a new country, we try to cover a bit of the local non-menswear craft alongside the usual tailoring, shirtmaking and shoemaking. When we were in Japan a couple of years ago, we visited the m...
Bryceland’s made-to-measure jacket: Review
September 20th 2024Hello! This is my made-to-measure jacket from Bryceland’s in London, in the Fox/Permanent Style tweed . It’s rather good - not the absolute best MTM fit I've had but solid, with more importantly great st...
Bryceland’s made-to-measure jacket: Review
Hello! This is my made-to-measure jacket from Bryceland’s in London, in the Fox/Permanent Style tweed . It’s rather good - not the absolute best MTM fit I've had but solid, with more importantly great st...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back
September 18th 2024The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the ...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back
The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the ...
Lorenzi, Milan: The rebirth of a menswear jewel
September 16th 2024One of my favourite shops in Milan used to be a little hole in the wall on Via Montenapoleone. Squeezed between big luxury boutiques, it was a real jewel of a place, tiny but perfect, selling equally tiny but perfect acc...
Lorenzi, Milan: The rebirth of a menswear jewel
One of my favourite shops in Milan used to be a little hole in the wall on Via Montenapoleone. Squeezed between big luxury boutiques, it was a real jewel of a place, tiny but perfect, selling equally tiny but perfect acc...
What I’m looking forward to wearing this winter
September 13th 2024By Jamie Ferguson. Hey there Permanent Stylers. Longtime contributor, first time writer so go easy on me. Now I may be in the minority here but I LOVE summer dressing. I enjoy the feeling of a cool breeze betwixt my neth...
What I’m looking forward to wearing this winter
By Jamie Ferguson. Hey there Permanent Stylers. Longtime contributor, first time writer so go easy on me. Now I may be in the minority here but I LOVE summer dressing. I enjoy the feeling of a cool breeze betwixt my neth...
The enlarged, filterable Lookbook
September 11th 2024The Lookbook page on PS has long been a hidden jewel. A lot of readers find it useful but others don’t know it’s there. I blame the way people (including me) use websites today, searching and asking before re...
The enlarged, filterable Lookbook
The Lookbook page on PS has long been a hidden jewel. A lot of readers find it useful but others don’t know it’s there. I blame the way people (including me) use websites today, searching and asking before re...
Latest Posts Continued
Broadway & Sons: A sunny afternoon in Stockholm
September 9th 2024“Shit. Look at that Simon, it was all shit.” David Asseraf is scrolling through his WhatsApp messages, showing me various deliveries of clothing. “This one they said it was all dungarees - US-made, 300...
Broadway & Sons: A sunny afternoon in Stockholm
“Shit. Look at that Simon, it was all shit.” David Asseraf is scrolling through his WhatsApp messages, showing me various deliveries of clothing. “This one they said it was all dungarees - US-made, 300...
Maison Hellard: Tasteful, experimental linen
September 6th 2024By Manish Puri. I’m in a car with Nathan Hellard - the founder of French linen merchant Maison Hellard - and we’re kindly being chauffeured by Nathan’s father, Philippe, from Pau to the commune of Assat...
Maison Hellard: Tasteful, experimental linen
By Manish Puri. I’m in a car with Nathan Hellard - the founder of French linen merchant Maison Hellard - and we’re kindly being chauffeured by Nathan’s father, Philippe, from Pau to the commune of Assat...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit
September 4th 2024In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
September 2nd 2024In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of...
How my shirt fit has changed in the past 15 years
August 30th 2024I know, a graph! Given the nerdery that’s often included on these pages, I’m surprised it’s taken so long for us to lead with a graph. (Mobile users: try opening the image in a new tab.) Let me tell you...
How my shirt fit has changed in the past 15 years
I know, a graph! Given the nerdery that’s often included on these pages, I’m surprised it’s taken so long for us to lead with a graph. (Mobile users: try opening the image in a new tab.) Let me tell you...
London: A menswear shopping guide
August 28th 2024In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write – I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. S...
London: A menswear shopping guide
In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write – I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. S...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
The best German tailors working today
August 26th 2024By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkm...
The best German tailors working today
By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkm...
Autumn/Winter 2024 on the PS Shop
August 23rd 2024Hello lovely readers, Here’s our regular update on what’s coming into the PS Shop over the next few months. We’ve included the information we have, but feel free to ask questions if you have them, as c...
Autumn/Winter 2024 on the PS Shop
Hello lovely readers, Here’s our regular update on what’s coming into the PS Shop over the next few months. We’ve included the information we have, but feel free to ask questions if you have them, as c...
The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack
August 21st 2024I wore this new hopsack jacket from Paolo Martorano quite a bit this summer, which surprised me. Although I’ve had navy jackets in the past, since I stopped working in an office I tend to wear more earthy colours, ...
The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack
I wore this new hopsack jacket from Paolo Martorano quite a bit this summer, which surprised me. Although I’ve had navy jackets in the past, since I stopped working in an office I tend to wear more earthy colours, ...
How I learned to love shorts
August 19th 2024By André Larnyoh. Recently I’ve been pining for the summer of 2022. Remember that one? Temperatures got to around 40 degrees and everyone was encouraged to stay indoors - something I did not do because Tooti...
How I learned to love shorts
By André Larnyoh. Recently I’ve been pining for the summer of 2022. Remember that one? Temperatures got to around 40 degrees and everyone was encouraged to stay indoors - something I did not do because Tooti...
The ultra-service at Saman Amel
August 16th 2024I’ve been really interested to see how Saman Amel have changed their business model in recent years. They’ve made a conscious decision to offer a far more involved service to customers, which is then reflecte...
The ultra-service at Saman Amel
I’ve been really interested to see how Saman Amel have changed their business model in recent years. They’ve made a conscious decision to offer a far more involved service to customers, which is then reflecte...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
August 14th 2024When I visited T&G Caraceni in Rome last year, a particular bolt of vintage cloth caught my eye. It was a brown-and-black houndstooth tweed, mid-weight but densely woven (as a lot of that vintage tweed tends to be). ...
Introducing: The Permanent Style collection at Fox
When I visited T&G Caraceni in Rome last year, a particular bolt of vintage cloth caught my eye. It was a brown-and-black houndstooth tweed, mid-weight but densely woven (as a lot of that vintage tweed tends to be). ...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 1
August 12th 2024One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference press...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 1
One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference press...
My Favourite Madras Shirt: Original Madras Trading Company
August 9th 2024By Manish Puri In 1973, Ranjit Shah left his hometown of Madras (now Chennai) carrying a suitcase full of cloth swatches and emigrated to New York City. Within a few years, he’d established Original Madras Trading ...
My Favourite Madras Shirt: Original Madras Trading Company
By Manish Puri In 1973, Ranjit Shah left his hometown of Madras (now Chennai) carrying a suitcase full of cloth swatches and emigrated to New York City. Within a few years, he’d established Original Madras Trading ...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
August 7th 2024By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at ...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at ...
London Invisible Mending: Preserving a Dying Art
August 5th 2024By Manish Puri As the seasons change, it’s become something of a Sunday ritual for me to be paid a visit at home by Michael Norman (below). Long-time readers may recall that Michael runs a dry cleaning business sp...
London Invisible Mending: Preserving a Dying Art
By Manish Puri As the seasons change, it’s become something of a Sunday ritual for me to be paid a visit at home by Michael Norman (below). Long-time readers may recall that Michael runs a dry cleaning business sp...
Denim
Buck Mason: Good value staples
July 17th 2024A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower inc...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower inc...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
June 7th 2024A couple of years ago, we discontinued the denim shirts sold on PS largely because of issues with producing and storing the cloth. Since then we’ve been working on alternatives, and finally settled on a Japanese-wo...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
A couple of years ago, we discontinued the denim shirts sold on PS largely because of issues with producing and storing the cloth. Since then we’ve been working on alternatives, and finally settled on a Japanese-wo...
My favourite jeans
May 1st 2024My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear b...
My favourite jeans
My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear b...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
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I'd go to The Valet - see page here with resources like that listed
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
Read the commentsLooking at the brand, Fran, there are some nice buckle shapes there and nice to have that width. I don't think the leather and metal will be at the same quality level though as others we've mentioned, given they're prices are lower than the cost…
Belt capsule guide: The basics
Read the commentsGood point on the Donegal - it is what makes the yarn distinctive, but you can request it without as well. Here we're really doing it just for consistency with the other products. I think we'll be fine for NY. We're a week away and…
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
Read the comments1. Both would go well 2. Either. Serge would be a little smarter, that's all
If you only had five (smart) trousers
Read the commentsIt's a big topic, but it's usually the difference between a craftsman and a designer. Craftspeople tend to be better at precision, and that kind of skill, rather than more creative things like style. I'd be a terrible craftsperson
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part one)
Read the commentsI think they're great, yes - I actually covered them more recently and in more detail, focusing on backpacks. Here The only other brand I'd suggest would be Bennett Winch, which is less technical but still good and in a lovely leather
Troubadour leather goods – in HTSI
Read the comments