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The jackets I picked for winter
October 20th 2021A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds st...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds st...
Latest Posts
The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and cotton
October 18th 2021One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In ...
The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and cotton
One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In ...
Combray: Vintage, high-end menswear
October 15th 2021I find I’m particularly interested in vintage clothes at the moment. That may be because of their inherent character, or the fact it seems more sustainable, or just that I’ve had a lot of clothes over the ye...
Combray: Vintage, high-end menswear
I find I’m particularly interested in vintage clothes at the moment. That may be because of their inherent character, or the fact it seems more sustainable, or just that I’ve had a lot of clothes over the ye...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
October 13th 2021This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made ...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
October 11th 2021This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily b...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily b...
The pop-up is back! With Bryceland’s and more
October 8th 2021*UPDATE: Just to clarify, anything that is not available as stock in the shop, and so has to be shipped to a visiting reader from either PS or Bryceland's, will have free shipping. So no extra charge there. Thanks* Some ...
The pop-up is back! With Bryceland’s and more
*UPDATE: Just to clarify, anything that is not available as stock in the shop, and so has to be shipped to a visiting reader from either PS or Bryceland's, will have free shipping. So no extra charge there. Thanks* Some ...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
October 6th 2021*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk ab...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk ab...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
October 4th 2021Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will...
A hoarder reformed: Downsizing my wardrobe
October 1st 2021By Tony Sylvester For the first time in a long time, I find myself in a particular clothing predicament: having spent the past few years in the same home, a move is imminent. While the change is welcome for many reasons,...
A hoarder reformed: Downsizing my wardrobe
By Tony Sylvester For the first time in a long time, I find myself in a particular clothing predicament: having spent the past few years in the same home, a move is imminent. While the change is welcome for many reasons,...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
September 29th 2021Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good dra...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good dra...
Introducing: The PS Arran scarf
September 27th 2021My favourite ever scarf is the Arran model from Begg. Over the years you will have seen me wear it with everything, from a Western hat to a baseball cap, a polo coat to a tweed jacket (examples at those links). Outside ...
Introducing: The PS Arran scarf
My favourite ever scarf is the Arran model from Begg. Over the years you will have seen me wear it with everything, from a Western hat to a baseball cap, a polo coat to a tweed jacket (examples at those links). Outside ...
Latest Posts Continued
Reader profile: David
September 24th 2021This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe ...
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a ...
Wax Walker in stock - and the fit of vintage knitwear
September 20th 2021During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat. The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ag...
Wax Walker in stock - and the fit of vintage knitwear
During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat. The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ag...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
September 17th 2021I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a ...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a ...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent Style
September 15th 2021Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainabil...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent Style
Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainabil...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
September 13th 2021*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently ...
Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown
*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently ...
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Latest Posts Continued
Matching checks on a jacket
September 10th 2021Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our ...
Matching checks on a jacket
Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our ...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
September 8th 2021Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series . But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for c...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series . But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for c...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
September 6th 2021Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen ...
The case for the Summer Suit. With tie
Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen ...
Be open minded. Or, what is style?
September 3rd 2021I believe that core to understanding clothes, and perhaps even to enjoying them, is appreciating styles that are not your own. If you can’t, it closes you off to dozens of ideas - something as simple as the shape ...
Be open minded. Or, what is style?
I believe that core to understanding clothes, and perhaps even to enjoying them, is appreciating styles that are not your own. If you can’t, it closes you off to dozens of ideas - something as simple as the shape ...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
August 30th 2021This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, ...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, ...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
August 27th 2021As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
August 25th 2021Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, hou...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, hou...
Reader profile: Manish
August 23rd 2021Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. ...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. ...
Good Art Hlywd: Unexpected craft and beauty
August 20th 2021I was buzzing when I got off the phone with Josh Warner of Good Art (above) last week. It's been a while since I've talked to someone new that has that bright-eyed passion - the enthusiasm of an obsessive creator. He r...
Good Art Hlywd: Unexpected craft and beauty
I was buzzing when I got off the phone with Josh Warner of Good Art (above) last week. It's been a while since I've talked to someone new that has that bright-eyed passion - the enthusiasm of an obsessive creator. He r...
Denim
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
October 11th 2021This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily b...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily b...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
May 12th 2021About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Co...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Co...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
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I think that's my point with your last item there Robi - I'm editing more for what I actually wear. Even if some things are always worth having because they're special when they are are worn (eg black tie or a purple wool jacket!) I…
The jackets I picked for winter
Read the commentsRegards tailoring. Full price I’d rather pay more and get something much nicer. However lately tk maxx has been quite flooded with their jackets, and honestly, for under 30£, there was about 3 jackets I would grab if I could only get my size. One…
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
Read the commentsThat's a big change Paul - I'd think it unlikely. It's easier if you think about the specific things that need to be altered. It's easy to slim the body, for example, but very hard to alter the shoulder width, particularly if it's not a…
Combray: Vintage, high-end menswear
Read the commentsIf you haven't changed that much, then I don't think there's anything wrong with suggesting a baste to bring over. However, I'd also go with what the tailor feels comfortable with, if they would rather not do so.
Video: How to buy a bespoke suit
Read the commentsTo be honest it's not a style I'd wear, so I've never thought about it much.
Suit style 3: The double breasted
Read the commentsFrom what I know of Reigning Champ, they are not at the same quality level as Merz or Real McCoys. And that's pretty clear from the price too. If you don't want the McCoy's aesthetic, then there's nothing wrong with RC, but it's not the…
The weekend capsule wardrobe
Read the comments