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Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

October 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mus...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mus...

Suits - TailoringOctober 20th 2017

Latest Posts

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

October 18th 2017

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo ...

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo ...

Suits - TailoringOctober 18th 2017

Everyday Denim cloth available again

October 17th 2017

One of the lovely things about the Everyday Denim we launched a couple of weeks ago was how quickly the cloth sold.  It's always hard to know how well a new type of product will do, and I'd clearly underestimated the ap...

Everyday Denim cloth available again

One of the lovely things about the Everyday Denim we launched a couple of weeks ago was how quickly the cloth sold.  It's always hard to know how well a new type of product will do, and I'd clearly underestimated the ap...

Shirts and tiesOctober 17th 2017

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

October 16th 2017

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the...

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the...

Boot - ShoesOctober 16th 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

October 13th 2017

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on...

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on...

Casual wear - DenimOctober 13th 2017

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

October 11th 2017

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual...

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 11th 2017

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Review

October 9th 2017

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile th...

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Review

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 9th 2017

How to wear trainers: Part 2. Quality

October 6th 2017

In recent years, as premium trainers/sneakers have increasingly popular, readers have asked for my view on when they might be appropriate, and when they are, what they should buy. I covered that last point in the first p...

How to wear trainers: Part 2. Quality

In recent years, as premium trainers/sneakers have increasingly popular, readers have asked for my view on when they might be appropriate, and when they are, what they should buy. I covered that last point in the first p...

Casual wear - ShoesOctober 6th 2017

Introducing: Everyday Denim

October 4th 2017

*Cloth now sold out* Today I’m very proud to launch a new collaboration, produced jointly by myself, Albiate and Luca Avitabile: ‘ Everyday Denim’. We picked the name because it is a shirt a man in a modern office...

Introducing: Everyday Denim

*Cloth now sold out* Today I’m very proud to launch a new collaboration, produced jointly by myself, Albiate and Luca Avitabile: ‘ Everyday Denim’. We picked the name because it is a shirt a man in a modern office...

October 4th 2017

The future of Permanent Style products

October 3rd 2017

Tomorrow we launch the second of our new collaborations this Autumn/Winter: denim cloth and shirts.  I'm sure they'll do well. A lot of thought and work has gone into them, and I think they suit the Permanent Style read...

The future of Permanent Style products

Tomorrow we launch the second of our new collaborations this Autumn/Winter: denim cloth and shirts.  I'm sure they'll do well. A lot of thought and work has gone into them, and I think they suit the Permanent Style read...

October 3rd 2017

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milanese...

October 2nd 2017

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella (above), but I h...

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milanese...

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella (above), but I h...

Finding a tailor - TailoringOctober 2nd 2017

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Marol shirts – coming to London

September 29th 2017

In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang (below). Next month, readers in Londo...

Marol shirts – coming to London

In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang (below). Next month, readers in Londo...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesSeptember 29th 2017

Me, outside the blog: Reader questions

September 27th 2017

In this next instalment of posts responding to reader questions, I will try to answer those about my life outside Permanent Style. Now, some readers have asked why I answer these questions, and indeed why readers put the...

Me, outside the blog: Reader questions

In this next instalment of posts responding to reader questions, I will try to answer those about my life outside Permanent Style. Now, some readers have asked why I answer these questions, and indeed why readers put the...

September 27th 2017

Sartoria Formosa – bespoke-made RTW and MTM t...

September 25th 2017

Sartoria Formosa - led by Gennaro, above - is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years ...

Sartoria Formosa – bespoke-made RTW and MTM t...

Sartoria Formosa - led by Gennaro, above - is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years ...

Finding a tailor - JacketsSeptember 25th 2017

Saic: bespoke bag-maker Hiroyuki Murata

September 22nd 2017

There is no shortage of Japanese artisans in Florence. But one that hasn’t garnered much attention yet is Hiroyuki Murata, who goes by the brand name Saic Firenze. Hiroyuki-san and his wife have a small workshop outsid...

Saic: bespoke bag-maker Hiroyuki Murata

There is no shortage of Japanese artisans in Florence. But one that hasn’t garnered much attention yet is Hiroyuki Murata, who goes by the brand name Saic Firenze. Hiroyuki-san and his wife have a small workshop outsid...

September 22nd 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

Permanent Style trench coat: Alterations and waitin...

September 19th 2017

Many thanks to everyone that bought our trench coat last week. The response was wonderful, and as you will have been able to see, we have sold out.   We are now putting together a waiting list, which readers can be adde...

Permanent Style trench coat: Alterations and waitin...

Many thanks to everyone that bought our trench coat last week. The response was wonderful, and as you will have been able to see, we have sold out.   We are now putting together a waiting list, which readers can be adde...

September 19th 2017

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

September 18th 2017

I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. ...

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. ...

Tailoring - TrousersSeptember 18th 2017

The Permanent Style trench coat – new stock a...

September 14th 2017

*Check the Shop page for stock levels* So, I've been on the phone to the factory...  One of the great things about working with a brand with its factory - like Private White VC - is that it can be more responsive and f...

The Permanent Style trench coat – new stock a...

*Check the Shop page for stock levels* So, I've been on the phone to the factory...  One of the great things about working with a brand with its factory - like Private White VC - is that it can be more responsive and f...

September 14th 2017

Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat

September 13th 2017

*Check  the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop...

Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat

*Check  the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 13th 2017

You are the interviewer

September 12th 2017

A couple of weeks ago, readers expressed interest in seeing me interviewed, with suggested questions including 'where do you store everything', 'is a blog sustainable' and 'do you have any regrets about reviews'. I tho...

You are the interviewer

A couple of weeks ago, readers expressed interest in seeing me interviewed, with suggested questions including 'where do you store everything', 'is a blog sustainable' and 'do you have any regrets about reviews'. I tho...

September 12th 2017

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

September 11th 2017

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up mos...

Caccioppoli, cloth merchant of Naples

Caccioppoli, the Italian cloth merchant, was Jamie’s favourite place to photograph when we visited Naples over the summer. The aesthetic appeal is not immediately obvious. The Caccioppoli building is big, taking up mos...

Cloth - TailoringSeptember 11th 2017

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

September 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Li...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Li...

Accessories - GlassesSeptember 8th 2017

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

September 6th 2017

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are ...

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are ...

Casual wear - JacketsSeptember 6th 2017

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

September 4th 2017

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored ja...

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored ja...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 4th 2017

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

September 1st 2017

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring.  They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest ...

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring.  They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest ...

Alterations and maintenance - TailoringSeptember 1st 2017

Italian aristocracy: Black and white

August 30th 2017

Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie.  The  p...

Italian aristocracy: Black and white

Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie.  The  p...

StyleAugust 30th 2017

Denim

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

October 13th 2017

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on...

How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style

This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on...

Casual wear - DenimOctober 13th 2017

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

August 18th 2017

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write abo...

Casual wear - DenimAugust 18th 2017

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 26th 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016