Latest Post
Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor
November 11th 2019Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he fin...
Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor
Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he fin...
Latest Posts
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
November 8th 2019Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted cou...
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted cou...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
November 6th 2019At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdow...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdow...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo, A&S
November 4th 2019Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drak...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo, A&S
Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drak...
Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
November 1st 2019I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about ...
Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about ...
Ivy Style today: The Symposium video, New York
October 30th 2019Last week's Symposium in New York was hugely enjoyable. There were over 200 enthusiastic people in the audience (standing room only) and I think the speakers were perfect. Alan Flusser gave the historical background on I...
Ivy Style today: The Symposium video, New York
Last week's Symposium in New York was hugely enjoyable. There were over 200 enthusiastic people in the audience (standing room only) and I think the speakers were perfect. Alan Flusser gave the historical background on I...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
October 29th 2019I have been trying to get Seraphin, the superlative French maker of leather and suede jackets, to London for some time. I first met them in 2013 and have been a customer ever since, visiting the workshop to cover it in ...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
I have been trying to get Seraphin, the superlative French maker of leather and suede jackets, to London for some time. I first met them in 2013 and have been a customer ever since, visiting the workshop to cover it in ...
Red Rabbit silver jewellery, New Mexico
October 28th 2019One of the nicest things about our last ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up was getting to know Mike and Cody, from Red Rabbit and Wellema Hats respectively. At a show like this you basically spend five full d...
Red Rabbit silver jewellery, New Mexico
One of the nicest things about our last ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up was getting to know Mike and Cody, from Red Rabbit and Wellema Hats respectively. At a show like this you basically spend five full d...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
October 25th 2019Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the dra...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the dra...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
October 23rd 2019Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and ...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
October 21st 2019This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked...
Latest Posts Continued
The vintage industry today: An interview with Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers
October 18th 2019Brian Davis runs the Brooklyn-based men’s vintage store Wooden Sleepers. As part of this week’s look at vintage clothing, I spoke to him about the industry side of vintage – how he got started in it, th...
The vintage industry today: An interview with Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers
Brian Davis runs the Brooklyn-based men’s vintage store Wooden Sleepers. As part of this week’s look at vintage clothing, I spoke to him about the industry side of vintage – how he got started in it, th...
How to buy vintage clothing
October 16th 2019Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade. Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it&rsq...
How to buy vintage clothing
Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade. Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it&rsq...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
October 14th 2019This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on F...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on F...
Marrkt sale: Finding a good home for my second-hand
October 11th 2019Few things annoy me more than waste. I know there are more important reasons to support the selling or donation of second-hand clothes: sustainability, accessibility, the environment and so on. But it's waste that irrit...
Marrkt sale: Finding a good home for my second-hand
Few things annoy me more than waste. I know there are more important reasons to support the selling or donation of second-hand clothes: sustainability, accessibility, the environment and so on. But it's waste that irrit...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
October 9th 2019Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recent...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recent...
The demise of the influencer?
October 7th 2019There have been some signs recently that the era of the influencer has peaked. In a recent Business of Fashion article , brands and PR agencies talked about how expensive Instagram has become. “If Instagram launch...
The demise of the influencer?
There have been some signs recently that the era of the influencer has peaked. In a recent Business of Fashion article , brands and PR agencies talked about how expensive Instagram has become. “If Instagram launch...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
New York Symposium, with Alan Flusser and Sid Mashburn
October 5th 2019I'm delighted to say that the next New York Symposium will be held in just under three weeks - with Alan Flusser, Sid Mashburn, Todd Snyder and Nick Sullivan. It is on Thursday October 24th, at Town Stages in Tribeca fro...
New York Symposium, with Alan Flusser and Sid Mashburn
I'm delighted to say that the next New York Symposium will be held in just under three weeks - with Alan Flusser, Sid Mashburn, Todd Snyder and Nick Sullivan. It is on Thursday October 24th, at Town Stages in Tribeca fro...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
October 4th 2019These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive,...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive,...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
October 2nd 2019This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any ot...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any ot...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
September 30th 2019This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other clot...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other clot...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman Amel
September 27th 2019The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a su...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman Amel
The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a su...
My tattoo
This should be a fun one. I doubt anyone will have strong feelings about it at all. A few weeks ago I got a tattoo on my forearm, and I thought readers might be interested in hearing why. It is something I took extremely...
Suit style 6: Buttons
September 23rd 2019This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good butto...
Suit style 6: Buttons
This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good butto...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
September 20th 2019Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer
Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out - and wears quicker when ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung cordovan
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill and Lof & Tung cordovan
So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each ti...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
September 16th 2019A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and...
Denim
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
The pop-up Week 1: Chats and coffee runs
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
Beaver is certainly better in the long term. It's so much stronger, and can be reblocked better too. You can even turn the whole thing inside out later on and reblock that. As to rollable hats, I know you can make them out of beaver…
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
Read the commentsHi Lars. Thanks, I'm pleased you like them. We worked off two shapes in the shop - which you refer to - and then made adjustments. I don't think they had any particular name, but I'll check.
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
Read the commentsThank you!
The roll neck
Read the commentsIt is slightly more casual, yes. But only slightly. Something more akin to choosing patch pockets or not.
Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor
Read the commentsNo, sorry Grant
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Italian, Anderson & Sheppard
Read the commentsHi Jacob, I would ignore Dream Bespoke and Raja Fashion. On the other two, WW Chan is a great tailor, with history and a good pedigree. The Anthology is a younger outfit, but also high quality. I'd recommend both
New pop-up brands announced: Adret, Prologue, Anthology
Read the comments