Latest Post
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
November 30th 2020In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new ...
Latest Posts
The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
November 27th 2020I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...
The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exc...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: ...
What is comfort?
November 23rd 2020Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently . Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As in,...
What is comfort?
Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently . Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As in,...
The mock neck
November 20th 2020I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of ...
The mock neck
I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of ...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
November 18th 2020This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the ...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the ...
Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring
November 16th 2020This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd w...
Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring
This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd w...
Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)
November 13th 2020A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful th...
Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)
A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful th...
Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Rubato
November 11th 2020While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used ...
Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Rubato
While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used ...
Carmina unlined chukka boots: Review
November 9th 2020There is one way in which this review is necessarily unfair. The vast majority of my shoes are at a higher quality level than these Carmina chukkas, and therefore my context will be different to many potential customers....
Carmina unlined chukka boots: Review
There is one way in which this review is necessarily unfair. The vast majority of my shoes are at a higher quality level than these Carmina chukkas, and therefore my context will be different to many potential customers....
The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)
November 6th 2020Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out th...
The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)
Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out th...
Latest Posts Continued
The Winter Top 5, 2020: End, GRP, Acronym...
November 4th 2020Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely tra...
The Winter Top 5, 2020: End, GRP, Acronym...
Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely tra...
The value we place on clothes: Philip Warkander
November 2nd 2020Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies. We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip cov...
The value we place on clothes: Philip Warkander
Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies. We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip cov...
The tucked-in T-shirt
October 30th 2020When I was a teenager, nothing seemed more sad or old than wearing a T-shirt tucked into trousers. Granted, the style of the day was loose, grunge-inspired clothing, with oversized flannel shirts and baggy knitwear. But...
The tucked-in T-shirt
When I was a teenager, nothing seemed more sad or old than wearing a T-shirt tucked into trousers. Granted, the style of the day was loose, grunge-inspired clothing, with oversized flannel shirts and baggy knitwear. But...
Introducing: The Wax Walker
October 28th 2020Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...
Introducing: The Wax Walker
Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
October 26th 2020In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...
Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat
October 23rd 2020My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...
Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat
My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...
Instagram Stories
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Latest Posts Continued
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
October 21st 2020Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...
New book: 'Bespoke Style'
October 19th 2020Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...
New book: 'Bespoke Style'
Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...
Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster
October 16th 2020A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...
Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster
A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...
Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future
October 14th 2020Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...
Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future
Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath
October 12th 2020Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath
Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...
Postcard from Stockholm
October 9th 2020So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...
Postcard from Stockholm
So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...
Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns
October 7th 2020With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...
Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns
With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
October 5th 2020I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...
Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau
October 2nd 2020I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...
Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau
I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...
My beard
It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I&rs...
Denim
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
May 18th 2020The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
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Anderson & Sheppard do some nice ones
Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 100 Hands, Norman Vilalta…)
Read the commentsWhile I am inclined to agree with your claim that quality bespoke lasts longer, I suspect that a well-kept piece of good ready to wear wouldn't look too different, assuming comparable initial fits (which is of course unlikely). The more important point is that we've…
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
Read the commentsI haven't tried their own-brand make I'm afraid
How to layer knitwear
Read the commentsNo, not at all. It was meant to be a joke - as in, some people take that division too seriously
The style and price of Berg & Berg
Read the commentsNot especially James, sorry. I would just say that shawls can vary quite a lot, in terms of width and shape. Personally I tend to prefer shapes which are wider at the bottom, as many RL ones area. I would suggest making sure you have…
The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)
Read the commentsIt depends so much on what you wear them with, your work environment, lifestyle and so on. And you basically have just one winter jacket and one summer one there. I would point you towards navy or dark green, based just on that description. But…
If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection
Read the comments