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Why I don’t wear braces

August 24th 2016

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Why I don’t wear braces

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Style - TailoringAugust 24th 201621 Comments

Latest Posts

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

August 20th 2016

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

Cloth - JacketsAugust 20th 201653 Comments

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

August 19th 2016

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

TailoringAugust 19th 201616 Comments

How to respond to criticism

August 17th 2016

Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...

How to respond to criticism

Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...

August 17th 201660 Comments

Navy

August 15th 2016

Hi Simon, Your blog has been extremely useful as a body of knowledge, thank you for it. Would you mind commenting on navy and how it is worn? It seems to be over-used, or used in the wrong setting. I often see men weari...

Navy

Hi Simon, Your blog has been extremely useful as a body of knowledge, thank you for it. Would you mind commenting on navy and how it is worn? It seems to be over-used, or used in the wrong setting. I often see men weari...

StyleAugust 15th 201627 Comments

Richard James bespoke tailoring

August 12th 2016

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Richard James bespoke tailoring

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Jackets - TailoringAugust 12th 201634 Comments

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 10th 201645 Comments

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 20166 Comments

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

August 5th 2016

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Finding a tailor - Shirts and tiesAugust 5th 201637 Comments

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

August 3rd 2016

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Suits - TailoringAugust 3rd 201617 Comments

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 201631 Comments

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

September 16th 2015

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in co...

TailoringSeptember 16th 20157 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Fit - SuitsJuly 29th 201624 Comments

How to dress pale colours for summer

July 27th 2016

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

How to dress pale colours for summer

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

Bags - HatsJuly 27th 201635 Comments

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

July 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 25th 201611 Comments

Bennett Winch bags: Luxury canvas

July 22nd 2016

Most of the products we recommend on Permanent Style have a key appeal in their materials - the quality of it, the tactile pleasure of feeling it every day. The canvas used on Bennett Winch bags is one such material. T...

Bennett Winch bags: Luxury canvas

Most of the products we recommend on Permanent Style have a key appeal in their materials - the quality of it, the tactile pleasure of feeling it every day. The canvas used on Bennett Winch bags is one such material. T...

Accessories - BagsJuly 22nd 201617 Comments

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the ma...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the ma...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 201650 Comments

Combining smart and casual clothing

July 18th 2016

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Combining smart and casual clothing

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Casual wear - HandkerchiefsJuly 18th 201625 Comments

How to use the new website

September 16th 2015

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

How to use the new website

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

September 16th 201521 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

July 15th 2016

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk abou...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 15th 201654 Comments

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

July 13th 2016

* Sold Out * A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long-sleeved polo...

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

* Sold Out * A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long-sleeved polo...

PolosJuly 13th 201646 Comments

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

July 11th 2016

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Casual wearJuly 11th 201614 Comments

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

July 8th 2016

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 8th 20167 Comments

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

July 6th 2016

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast wa...

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast wa...

Suits - TailoringJuly 6th 201651 Comments

The Permanent Style cufflinks

July 4th 2016

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations. In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everyth...

The Permanent Style cufflinks

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations. In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everyth...

AccessoriesJuly 4th 201612 Comments

How to use the new website

July 1st 2016

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

How to use the new website

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

July 1st 201621 Comments

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

June 29th 2016

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & Lange

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-or...

Loafer - ShoesJune 29th 201632 Comments

Suit style 3: The double breasted

June 27th 2016

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, bu...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, bu...

Suits - TailoringJune 27th 201640 Comments

Video: A hand-sewn wallet, from start to finish

June 26th 2016

A lovely video this, showing a lot of the detail of making a hand-sewn alligator wallet - from Charlie Trevor at Equus Leather. It was just released today. The music might be a bit much, but I think we can forgive it...

Video: A hand-sewn wallet, from start to finish

A lovely video this, showing a lot of the detail of making a hand-sewn alligator wallet - from Charlie Trevor at Equus Leather. It was just released today. The music might be a bit much, but I think we can forgive it...

Accessories - Belts and walletsJune 26th 20161 Comment

Denim

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 201630 Comments

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 201631 Comments

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

May 27th 2015

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Casual wear - DenimMay 27th 201539 Comments

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 201519 Comments

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 201553 Comments

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 201546 Comments

Factory Visits

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 20166 Comments

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 20167 Comments

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 201530 Comments