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How Florence changed with the pandemic

August 8th 2022

“It was really eerie, Simon, with all the tourists gone." “I know that was the same everywhere," says Simone Abbarchi (above), "but seeing the Piazza della Signoria empty made it feel like we’d gone bac...

How Florence changed with the pandemic

“It was really eerie, Simon, with all the tourists gone." “I know that was the same everywhere," says Simone Abbarchi (above), "but seeing the Piazza della Signoria empty made it feel like we’d gone bac...

Shirts - ShoesAugust 8th 2022

Latest Posts

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

August 5th 2022

Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly p...

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly p...

Socks and underwearAugust 5th 2022

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

August 3rd 2022

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Crist...

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Crist...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 3rd 2022

Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out 

August 1st 2022

I ’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually t...

Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out 

I ’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually t...

ShirtsAugust 1st 2022

Coloured summer jackets: Final A&S commission

July 29th 2022

How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but wh...

Coloured summer jackets: Final A&S commission

How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but wh...

JacketsJuly 29th 2022

What Ivy means to me

July 27th 2022

When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I ...

What Ivy means to me

When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I ...

July 27th 2022

The appeal of a silk dressing gown

July 25th 2022

As I wrote earlier this year , I’m usually quite conservative when it comes to gowns. They’re very practical for me, thrown on early in the morning to get up with one of my three daughters. They can still be...

The appeal of a silk dressing gown

As I wrote earlier this year , I’m usually quite conservative when it comes to gowns. They’re very practical for me, thrown on early in the morning to get up with one of my three daughters. They can still be...

July 25th 2022

What I pack when I travel – on holiday

July 22nd 2022

A few years ago, I wrote a piece detailing what I packed when I travelled – focused on Naples in wam weather, but with application to colder weather too. However this was a ‘work’ trip for me. One...

What I pack when I travel – on holiday

A few years ago, I wrote a piece detailing what I packed when I travelled – focused on Naples in wam weather, but with application to colder weather too. However this was a ‘work’ trip for me. One...

July 22nd 2022

Introducing: The striped short-sleeve shirt

July 20th 2022

“A smarter short-sleeved shirt is not something I ever considered before, but I do actually like it.” I have to say I enjoyed the process of launching this shirt last year - i t’s fun to make something ...

Introducing: The striped short-sleeve shirt

“A smarter short-sleeved shirt is not something I ever considered before, but I do actually like it.” I have to say I enjoyed the process of launching this shirt last year - i t’s fun to make something ...

ShirtsJuly 20th 2022

Hunter, Desii, Tartan: Florence's surprising vintage

July 18th 2022

Florence is a surprisingly good city for shopping, quite apart from any menswear shows that happen to be going on. It’s always been a hub for craft, and even in the city centre you’ll often walk past a littl...

Hunter, Desii, Tartan: Florence's surprising vintage

Florence is a surprisingly good city for shopping, quite apart from any menswear shows that happen to be going on. It’s always been a hub for craft, and even in the city centre you’ll often walk past a littl...

July 18th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit

July 15th 2022

by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school&rsquo...

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit

by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school&rsquo...

SuitsJuly 15th 2022

Latest Posts Continued

Aimé Leon Dore launches in the UK – worth a visit?

July 13th 2022

There has been a fair amount of excitement in London at the opening of the new Aimé Leon Dore shop in Soho – their first outside the US. I can understand why. New menswear stores are rare at the moment, the ...

Aimé Leon Dore launches in the UK – worth a visit?

There has been a fair amount of excitement in London at the opening of the new Aimé Leon Dore shop in Soho – their first outside the US. I can understand why. New menswear stores are rare at the moment, the ...

Casual clothing - ShirtsJuly 13th 2022

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

July 11th 2022

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often us...

Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why

The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often us...

JacketsJuly 11th 2022

La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade

July 8th 2022

By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into...

La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade

By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into...

ShoesJuly 8th 2022

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

July 6th 2022

I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been ...

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been ...

Casual clothing - ShoesJuly 6th 2022

If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers

July 4th 2022

I began the companion piece to this one – looking at smart trousers – by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series . I was right. I thought this one would be ha...

If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers

I began the companion piece to this one – looking at smart trousers – by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series . I was right. I thought this one would be ha...

TrousersJuly 4th 2022

Some interesting Pitti picks

July 1st 2022

It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...

Some interesting Pitti picks

It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...

StyleJuly 1st 2022

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online

June 29th 2022

I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...

The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online

I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 29th 2022

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

June 27th 2022

By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...

My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend

By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 27th 2022

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review

June 24th 2022

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...

BagsJune 24th 2022

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys

June 20th 2022

By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...

Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys

By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...

Hanks and scarves - JacketsJune 20th 2022

Reader profile: Cedric

June 17th 2022

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...

Reader profile: Cedric

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...

Casual clothing - JacketsJune 17th 2022

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

June 15th 2022

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...

ShoesJune 15th 2022

How to avoid getting burnt out

June 13th 2022

It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...

How to avoid getting burnt out

It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...

June 13th 2022

The slouchy cardigan

June 10th 2022

Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...

The slouchy cardigan

Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...

Belts and wallets - KnitwearJune 10th 2022

Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later

June 8th 2022

Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...

Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later

Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...

June 8th 2022

Denim

What makes quality jeans – and should you care?

May 25th 2022

A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...

What makes quality jeans – and should you care?

A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...

DenimMay 25th 2022

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

January 19th 2022

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 19th 2022

Reader profile: Mattia

January 17th 2022

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...

Reader profile: Mattia

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 17th 2022

Reader Qs

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019