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The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Vesu...

July 28th 2017

As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mou...

The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Vesu...

As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mou...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJuly 28th 2017

Latest Posts

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson.  There had been official launch events, a...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Last month, we organised a dinner at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel to celebrate The Style Guide - the book published earlier this year by myself and photographer Jamie Ferguson.  There had been official launch events, a...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

The guide to summer jacket cloths

July 24th 2017

In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang strai...

The guide to summer jacket cloths

In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang strai...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 24th 2017

Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshop

July 21st 2017

This is the first in what will be a series on artisanal workshops in Naples - following my trip there with Jamie a couple of weeks ago.  One of the loveliest we visited was the Cerrato atelier, which is on the first flo...

Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshop

This is the first in what will be a series on artisanal workshops in Naples - following my trip there with Jamie a couple of weeks ago.  One of the loveliest we visited was the Cerrato atelier, which is on the first flo...

Tailoring - TrousersJuly 21st 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of ...

What I pack when I travel

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of ...

Accessories - BagsJuly 19th 2017

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

July 17th 2017

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture.  The starting...

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture.  The starting...

Accessories - HatsJuly 17th 2017

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

July 14th 2017

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bran...

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bran...

Accessories - BagsJuly 14th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding ...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding ...

July 12th 2017

Special order for Friday Polos ends tomorrow

July 11th 2017

The two-week period for placing special orders of our Friday Polos ends tomorrow.  So if you are planning to take advantage of the opportunity to order one in any colour or size (including XS and XXL) please do so by m...

Special order for Friday Polos ends tomorrow

The two-week period for placing special orders of our Friday Polos ends tomorrow.  So if you are planning to take advantage of the opportunity to order one in any colour or size (including XS and XXL) please do so by m...

July 11th 2017

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

July 10th 2017

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo.  Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectivel...

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo.  Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectivel...

Suits - TailoringJuly 10th 2017

Baudoin & Lange sagans – my colour

July 7th 2017

For the past year - ever since they were first launched here on Permanent Style - I have been wearing Sagans by Baudoin & Lange regularly and consistently.  But it has only been in the past few weeks, as the temperature...

Baudoin & Lange sagans – my colour

For the past year - ever since they were first launched here on Permanent Style - I have been wearing Sagans by Baudoin & Lange regularly and consistently.  But it has only been in the past few weeks, as the temperature...

Loafer - ShoesJuly 7th 2017

Featured Post

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 13th 2016

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

September 13th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

My desk

July 5th 2017

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the mo...

My desk

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the mo...

Accessories - BootJuly 5th 2017

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

July 3rd 2017

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garment bag ...

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garment bag ...

Accessories - BagsJuly 3rd 2017

Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer a...

June 30th 2017

In some ways, this navy jacket and topcoat from Ettore de Cesare are the antithesis of the Disguisery tweed jacket we featured last week.  Ettore is a third-generation Neapolitan tailor known for his close-fitting, uns...

Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer a...

In some ways, this navy jacket and topcoat from Ettore de Cesare are the antithesis of the Disguisery tweed jacket we featured last week.  Ettore is a third-generation Neapolitan tailor known for his close-fitting, uns...

Finding a tailor - JacketsJune 30th 2017

Special order of Friday Polos – including XS ...

June 28th 2017

As promised during conversations around the last batch of Friday Polos, we are now offering special orders - for the next two weeks only, until July 12th.  This is primarily to give readers that require an XS or XXL th...

Special order of Friday Polos – including XS ...

As promised during conversations around the last batch of Friday Polos, we are now offering special orders - for the next two weeks only, until July 12th.  This is primarily to give readers that require an XS or XXL th...

June 28th 2017

Wearing black (in a sports jacket)

June 26th 2017

I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pret...

Wearing black (in a sports jacket)

I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pret...

Jackets - StyleJune 26th 2017

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

June 23rd 2017

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker ( stivaleria means bootmaker, and it was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to se...

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker ( stivaleria means bootmaker, and it was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to se...

Boot - ShoesJune 23rd 2017

Featured Post

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

November 9th 2016

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 9th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

June 21st 2017

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets...

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets...

Jackets - TailoringJune 21st 2017

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

June 19th 2017

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes ...

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes ...

AccessoriesJune 19th 2017

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

June 16th 2017

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork.  I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Watc...

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork.  I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Watc...

Accessories - Belts and walletsJune 16th 2017

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

June 14th 2017

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting.  I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting.  I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 14th 2017

The Style Guide: accessories style, as more stockis...

June 12th 2017

This is an update on availability of our book The Style Guide - with the sweet sweetener of an extract from the Accessories chapter.  So far, The Style Guide has sold just over 1000 copies, out of a total run of 2000. ...

The Style Guide: accessories style, as more stockis...

This is an update on availability of our book The Style Guide - with the sweet sweetener of an extract from the Accessories chapter.  So far, The Style Guide has sold just over 1000 copies, out of a total run of 2000. ...

StyleJune 12th 2017

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

June 9th 2017

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.  Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and mo...

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.  Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and mo...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJune 9th 2017

Our Summer Top 10

June 7th 2017

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, the...

Our Summer Top 10

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, the...

June 7th 2017

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

June 5th 2017

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it.  Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it.  Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 5th 2017

Clothing shows we care

June 2nd 2017

Friend and author Bruce Boyer recently penned a startlingly ambitious piece on the importance of clothing, for US Catholic journal First Things.  I have obtained permission to reproduce a section of it here.  It argu...

Clothing shows we care

Friend and author Bruce Boyer recently penned a startlingly ambitious piece on the importance of clothing, for US Catholic journal First Things.  I have obtained permission to reproduce a section of it here.  It argu...

June 2nd 2017

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while ev...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while ev...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Denim

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 26th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket – from C...

April 7th 2017

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal through the use of casual cloths is attractive.  It retains th...

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket – from C...

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal through the use of casual cloths is attractive.  It retains th...

Casual wear - DenimApril 7th 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016