Home

Latest Post

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

April 23rd 2018

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be ...

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be ...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesApril 23rd 2018

Latest Posts

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doec, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doec, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the...

Casual wear - GlassesApril 20th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘od...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘od...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

April 13th 2018

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about suc...

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about suc...

Alterations and maintenance - TailoringApril 13th 2018

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

April 11th 2018

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of t...

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of t...

ShirtsApril 11th 2018

Melbourne: A sartorial shopping guide

April 9th 2018

Australia might not be the first country anyone associates with tailoring and classic menswear, but Melbourne has a greater range than most of the rest of the country. This is partly due to the fact that it has clear sea...

Melbourne: A sartorial shopping guide

Australia might not be the first country anyone associates with tailoring and classic menswear, but Melbourne has a greater range than most of the rest of the country. This is partly due to the fact that it has clear sea...

April 9th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

April 6th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladia...

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladia...

TailorsApril 6th 2018

Wearing warm and cold colours

April 4th 2018

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things co...

Wearing warm and cold colours

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things co...

StyleApril 4th 2018

A Guide to Tweed

April 2nd 2018

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey wo...

A Guide to Tweed

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey wo...

ClothApril 2nd 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

March 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Suits - TailorsMarch 30th 2018

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

March 28th 2018

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry  charcoal flannel...

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry  charcoal flannel...

Suits - TailoringMarch 28th 2018

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like A...

March 26th 2018

This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bru...

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like A...

This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bru...

StyleMarch 26th 2018

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

March 23rd 2018

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each...

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each...

Oxford - ShoesMarch 23rd 2018

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

March 21st 2018

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London.  We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, ...

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London.  We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, ...

TailorsMarch 21st 2018

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

March 19th 2018

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic mensw...

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic mensw...

Jackets - ShirtsMarch 19th 2018

The fashions of classic menswear

March 16th 2018

Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it's important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we shun band T-shirts or 'ugly' trainers, we are still strongly i...

The fashions of classic menswear

Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it's important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we shun band T-shirts or 'ugly' trainers, we are still strongly i...

March 16th 2018

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Everyday Denim shirts available

March 14th 2018

I know I'm biased, but  this shirt made in the Everyday Denim cloth we developed with Albiate/Albini last year is now easily my favourite.  It has faded slowly and nicely, while stopping short of bleaching completely...

Everyday Denim shirts available

I know I'm biased, but  this shirt made in the Everyday Denim cloth we developed with Albiate/Albini last year is now easily my favourite.  It has faded slowly and nicely, while stopping short of bleaching completely...

March 14th 2018

The Style Lookbook

March 12th 2018

This was an idea that a reader suggested to me a few months ago. (Readers are the best...) It's called  The Lookbook, and it's a collection of all of my outfits from the past 10 years of Permanent Style.  One hundred a...

The Style Lookbook

This was an idea that a reader suggested to me a few months ago. (Readers are the best...) It's called  The Lookbook, and it's a collection of all of my outfits from the past 10 years of Permanent Style.  One hundred a...

StyleMarch 12th 2018

The duffle coat

March 9th 2018

It was freezing in London last week. Temperatures below zero consistently; more snow than we’ve had in a decade. Of course, it’s nothing compared to the US east coast - or Scandinavia - but it was rather a shock. I h...

The duffle coat

It was freezing in London last week. Temperatures below zero consistently; more snow than we’ve had in a decade. Of course, it’s nothing compared to the US east coast - or Scandinavia - but it was rather a shock. I h...

Casual wear - OvercoatsMarch 9th 2018

How to look after suede jackets

March 7th 2018

This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street.  In this second inst...

How to look after suede jackets

This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street.  In this second inst...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 7th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal and...

March 1st 2018

Although I love rich, natural colours (particularly in Autumn) I've always been fascinated by the subtleties of monochrome dressing.  It has such strong style, and yet there is so little too it. It's striking and unus...

Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal and...

Although I love rich, natural colours (particularly in Autumn) I've always been fascinated by the subtleties of monochrome dressing.  It has such strong style, and yet there is so little too it. It's striking and unus...

StyleMarch 1st 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their ro...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their ro...

Casual wear - StyleFebruary 28th 2018

Watch caps back in stock

February 26th 2018

I'm pleased to say we've managed to get another batch of watch caps through, just before the end of winter.  We made 200 this time, so hopefully they won't all go in a day, like last time. Colours are the same - navy an...

Watch caps back in stock

I'm pleased to say we've managed to get another batch of watch caps through, just before the end of winter.  We made 200 this time, so hopefully they won't all go in a day, like last time. Colours are the same - navy an...

February 26th 2018

An evening with Ciardi

February 24th 2018

In a couple of weeks (Wednesday, March 7) Sartoria Ciardi will be coming to London for the first time.  They will be holding a trunk show all day on Thursday 8th, but we thought it would also be nice to have an event th...

An evening with Ciardi

In a couple of weeks (Wednesday, March 7) Sartoria Ciardi will be coming to London for the first time.  They will be holding a trunk show all day on Thursday 8th, but we thought it would also be nice to have an event th...

February 24th 2018

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

February 23rd 2018

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance ...

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance ...

Finding a tailor - SuitsFebruary 23rd 2018

Denim

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

February 14th 2018

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Casual wear - DenimFebruary 14th 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 21st 2017

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

December 14th 2017

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining...

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining...

Accessories - Casual jacketsDecember 14th 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016