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How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

July 18th 2018

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation...

How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation...

Accessories - BagsJuly 18th 2018

Latest Posts

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

July 16th 2018

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesb...

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesb...

TailoringJuly 16th 2018

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

July 13th 2018

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen,...

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen,...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 13th 2018

Come to the pop-up opening party!

July 11th 2018

The opening party for our pop-up shop in Fortnum & Mason is next Thursday, July 19th. All welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands that are being featured this time: Kirk Originals, Simpson London,...

Come to the pop-up opening party!

The opening party for our pop-up shop in Fortnum & Mason is next Thursday, July 19th. All welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands that are being featured this time: Kirk Originals, Simpson London,...

July 11th 2018

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

July 9th 2018

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having i...

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having i...

Jackets - StyleJuly 9th 2018

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

July 6th 2018

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ri...

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ri...

Finding a tailor - SuitsJuly 6th 2018

Saman Amel knitwear: Review

July 4th 2018

Fit is the most important aspect of clothing. It’s something I’ve always believed and it bears repeating. Quality is perhaps next, and you need style in anything, but fit is criminally ignored by most men - usually i...

Saman Amel knitwear: Review

Fit is the most important aspect of clothing. It’s something I’ve always believed and it bears repeating. Quality is perhaps next, and you need style in anything, but fit is criminally ignored by most men - usually i...

KnitwearJuly 4th 2018

The next pop-up shop – in Fortnum & Mason!

July 2nd 2018

I'm proud to say that our next pop-up shop will be in Fortnum & Mason department store, over 10 days from July 20th-29th. Having been on Savile Row the past two occasions, it's great to be moving into a big department st...

The next pop-up shop – in Fortnum & Mason!

I'm proud to say that our next pop-up shop will be in Fortnum & Mason department store, over 10 days from July 20th-29th. Having been on Savile Row the past two occasions, it's great to be moving into a big department st...

July 2nd 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Da...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Da...

Glasses - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

June 27th 2018

Luxire is an Indian company based in Bangalore that launched in 2012 to offer made-to-measure shirts, trousers and jackets. There are many such companies, usually making entirely by machine and using a variety of online ...

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

Luxire is an Indian company based in Bangalore that launched in 2012 to offer made-to-measure shirts, trousers and jackets. There are many such companies, usually making entirely by machine and using a variety of online ...

Shirts - TrousersJune 27th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is...

Jackets - TailorsJune 25th 2018

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

June 22nd 2018

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard try...

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard try...

Casual wear - PolosJune 22nd 2018

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

George Wang, Calvin Zang and Gabriel Oberg Bustad, all (now) of Brio in Beijing Lorenzo Cifonelli Shaun Gordon Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling t...

Media Symposium – The debate

George Wang, Calvin Zang and Gabriel Oberg Bustad, all (now) of Brio in Beijing Lorenzo Cifonelli Shaun Gordon Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling t...

June 20th 2018

The Media Symposium – the dinner and party

June 19th 2018

Our Symposium on fashion and the media, held last week at Teatro del Sale in Florence, might have been our most enjoyable yet. Certainly, it ran the smoothest, with no logistics issues and a set of speakers that, frankly...

The Media Symposium – the dinner and party

Our Symposium on fashion and the media, held last week at Teatro del Sale in Florence, might have been our most enjoyable yet. Certainly, it ran the smoothest, with no logistics issues and a set of speakers that, frankly...

June 19th 2018

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

June 18th 2018

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same agai...

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same agai...

June 18th 2018

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers n...

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers n...

ClothJune 15th 2018

Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visit,...

June 13th 2018

Getting out of Naples early in the morning is not easy. Traffic is intense: bumper to bumper around the mountain roads leading out of the city, and through long, dark tunnels. By far the best way to get out is by scooter...

Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visit,...

Getting out of Naples early in the morning is not easy. Traffic is intense: bumper to bumper around the mountain roads leading out of the city, and through long, dark tunnels. By far the best way to get out is by scooter...

ShoesJune 13th 2018

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top ha...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top ha...

Accessories - GlassesJune 11th 2018

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

June 8th 2018

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Ri...

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Ri...

Suits - TailorsJune 8th 2018

How to wear a pocket handkerchief – Video

June 6th 2018

This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-sa...

How to wear a pocket handkerchief – Video

This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-sa...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsJune 6th 2018

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Factory visits - TailoringJune 4th 2018

Video: In conversation with Lorenzo

June 1st 2018

As promised a while back, here is some video coverage of the talk Lorenzo Cifonelli and I gave at Attire House in Hong Kong last month. We cover a pretty broad range of topics, from how annoyed Lorenzo looks when he's do...

Video: In conversation with Lorenzo

As promised a while back, here is some video coverage of the talk Lorenzo Cifonelli and I gave at Attire House in Hong Kong last month. We cover a pretty broad range of topics, from how annoyed Lorenzo looks when he's do...

June 1st 2018

Introducing: The PS Shorts

May 30th 2018

Today our long-awaited shorts (by me, anyway) go on sale. They are available in two styles: a clean, smart navy and a casual, garment-washed green. Although some PS projects have been more involved, this has probably bee...

Introducing: The PS Shorts

Today our long-awaited shorts (by me, anyway) go on sale. They are available in two styles: a clean, smart navy and a casual, garment-washed green. Although some PS projects have been more involved, this has probably bee...

Casual wearMay 30th 2018

A Guide to Linen

May 28th 2018

Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal ...

A Guide to Linen

Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal ...

ClothMay 28th 2018

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

May 25th 2018

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Black tie - OxfordMay 25th 2018

The Finest Tailors series

May 24th 2018

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or mak...

The Finest Tailors series

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or mak...

Finding a tailor - StyleMay 24th 2018

The Media Symposium – please RSVP

May 23rd 2018

Details for our Media Symposium at Pitti. It's going to be such a laugh. Please do RSVP, as the places are a little limited by the theatre space and dinner. Thanks Related posts The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo Janu...

The Media Symposium – please RSVP

Details for our Media Symposium at Pitti. It's going to be such a laugh. Please do RSVP, as the places are a little limited by the theatre space and dinner. Thanks Related posts The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo Janu...

May 23rd 2018

Denim

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

May 18th 2018

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

Casual wear - DenimMay 18th 2018

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

February 14th 2018

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Casual wear - DenimFebruary 14th 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 21st 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Factory visits - TailoringJune 4th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017