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Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock

March 25th 2019

[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...

Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock

[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...

ShirtsMarch 25th 2019

Latest Posts

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit

March 20th 2019

I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...

Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit

I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...

ScarvesMarch 20th 2019

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

March 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...

Loafer - ShoesMarch 18th 2019

Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop

March 15th 2019

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...

Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...

Accessories - Casual jacketsMarch 15th 2019

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Casual wear - DenimMarch 13th 2019

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s

March 11th 2019

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...

StyleMarch 11th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

March 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...

Jackets - TailorsMarch 8th 2019

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

March 6th 2019

Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...

ShirtsMarch 6th 2019

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

March 4th 2019

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...

Loafer - ShoesMarch 4th 2019

The Guide to Performance Shirtings

March 1st 2019

Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...

The Guide to Performance Shirtings

Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...

Cloth - ShirtsMarch 1st 2019

Active Threads

No, Anderson & Sheppard had wider shoulders.

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Read the comments

No they're cotton I'm afraid - if you look up the post on P Johnson you can find details there. Personally I think white looks a little stark and cheap in white - your might be better off with cream, such as the cream flannel…

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

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Valstar should certainly be the starting point. Purple Label like most designers will be rather hit and miss. Dunhill should have some, also Thom Sweeney, Anderson & Sheppard and Anglo-Italian. Anglo does an MTM, but if you like the style then the best there is…

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

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Hobbler Not sure if you get to read this, but it sounds like you have hallux rigidus. If it hasn’t progressed too far, you can have a cheilectomy. I’ve had the procedure and it made a massive difference. If it has progressed very far, you…

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

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Hi Alexander. Personally I like a 2 inch cuff, and I wouldn't be afraid of going for that. The only argument against it would be if you are rather short, but even then I think it's mostly a question of style rather than proportions

The rules and how to break them 1: Trouser length

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I think fawn would be as versatile to be honest. The piece is fairly unusual as it is, so the colour won't make a huge difference by comparison

Introducing: The leather envelope folio

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Latest Posts Continued

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury

February 27th 2019

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...

February 27th 2019

Introducing: The leather envelope folio

February 25th 2019

Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...

Introducing: The leather envelope folio

Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...

Accessories - BagsFebruary 25th 2019

Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP

February 22nd 2019

Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...

Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP

Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...

February 22nd 2019

The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party

February 21st 2019

Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...

The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party

Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...

February 21st 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9

February 20th 2019

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...

Style - SuitsFebruary 20th 2019

Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review

February 18th 2019

I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...

Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review

I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...

Accessories - HatsFebruary 18th 2019

Featured Post

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

Media Symposium – The debate

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

StyleJune 20th 2018

Latest Posts Continued

The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit

February 15th 2019

The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...

The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit

The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...

ClothFebruary 15th 2019

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

February 13th 2019

While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...

Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes

While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...

ShoesFebruary 13th 2019

Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…

February 12th 2019

The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...

Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…

The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...

February 12th 2019

Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair

February 11th 2019

They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...

Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair

They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...

ClothFebruary 11th 2019

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

February 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....

Shirts - Shirts and tiesFebruary 8th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

February 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...

Suits - TailorsFebruary 6th 2019

One million readers on Permanent Style

February 5th 2019

In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...

One million readers on Permanent Style

In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...

February 5th 2019

Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

February 4th 2019

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...

Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...

Accessories - Belts and walletsFebruary 4th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...

Strong colour in accessories

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...

Overcoats - ScarvesFebruary 1st 2019

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

January 30th 2019

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJanuary 30th 2019

Denim

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Casual wear - DenimMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Casual wear - DenimDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

DenimNovember 16th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Derby - OxfordAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Casual wear - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Accessories - BagsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018