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Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

June 21st 2017

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets...

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets...

Jackets - TailoringJune 21st 2017

Latest Posts

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

June 19th 2017

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes ...

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes ...

AccessoriesJune 19th 2017

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

June 16th 2017

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork.  I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Watc...

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork.  I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Watc...

Accessories - Belts and walletsJune 16th 2017

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

June 14th 2017

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting.  I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting.  I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 14th 2017

The Style Guide: accessories style, as more stockis...

June 12th 2017

This is an update on availability of our book The Style Guide - with the sweet sweetener of an extract from the Accessories chapter.  So far, The Style Guide has sold just over 1000 copies, out of a total run of 2000. ...

The Style Guide: accessories style, as more stockis...

This is an update on availability of our book The Style Guide - with the sweet sweetener of an extract from the Accessories chapter.  So far, The Style Guide has sold just over 1000 copies, out of a total run of 2000. ...

StyleJune 12th 2017

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

June 9th 2017

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.  Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and mo...

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.  Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and mo...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJune 9th 2017

Our Summer Top 10

June 7th 2017

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, the...

Our Summer Top 10

This feature is the first in what will become a series on Permanent Style, in which we analyse the seasonal offerings of all the top menswear brands, and pick out our favourite ten pieces. As ever on Permanent Style, the...

June 7th 2017

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

June 5th 2017

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it.  Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it.  Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 5th 2017

Clothing shows we care

June 2nd 2017

Friend and author Bruce Boyer recently penned a startlingly ambitious piece on the importance of clothing, for US Catholic journal First Things.  I have obtained permission to reproduce a section of it here.  It argu...

Clothing shows we care

Friend and author Bruce Boyer recently penned a startlingly ambitious piece on the importance of clothing, for US Catholic journal First Things.  I have obtained permission to reproduce a section of it here.  It argu...

June 2nd 2017

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while ev...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while ev...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

May 29th 2017

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about M...

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about M...

Jackets - SuitsMay 29th 2017

Featured Post

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 13th 2016

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar.The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who is...

September 13th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 26th 2017

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

May 24th 2017

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the...

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the...

Accessories - GlassesMay 24th 2017

The perfect wedding suit

May 22nd 2017

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. P...

The perfect wedding suit

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. P...

Style - TailoringMay 22nd 2017

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide

May 19th 2017

Tokyo is arguably the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experience in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche b...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide

Tokyo is arguably the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experience in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche b...

May 19th 2017

Short-sleeve Friday Polos are back!

May 17th 2017

*Please check the Shop page for stock. Some size/colour combinations now sold out* I'm pleased to say that the short-sleeved permutation of our highly popular Friday Polos are available again in the Permanent Style shop...

Short-sleeve Friday Polos are back!

*Please check the Shop page for stock. Some size/colour combinations now sold out* I'm pleased to say that the short-sleeved permutation of our highly popular Friday Polos are available again in the Permanent Style shop...

May 17th 2017

Shirting mills and brands explained

May 15th 2017

The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths tha...

Shirting mills and brands explained

The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths tha...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesMay 15th 2017

Featured Post

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

November 9th 2016

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Collaboration: Made-to-order Lavabre Cadet gloves

**Brown and cork peccary now sold out. All other peccary colours and the other leathers still available**French storied manufacturer Lavabre Cadet makes the finest gloves I’ve ever worn - but they don’t have many out...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 9th 2016

Latest Posts Continued

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

The guide to summer trouser cloths

May 10th 2017

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end o...

The guide to summer trouser cloths

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end o...

TrousersMay 10th 2017

No Symposium this summer. (Boooo!)

May 9th 2017

We'll be taking a break from the Symposium series of talks this summer, because frankly the Style Guide and the Savile Row pop-up have just been too much. And there's another dinner to come.  So I can finally enjoy a...

No Symposium this summer. (Boooo!)

We'll be taking a break from the Symposium series of talks this summer, because frankly the Style Guide and the Savile Row pop-up have just been too much. And there's another dinner to come.  So I can finally enjoy a...

May 9th 2017

Bigi ties – Milan workshop

May 8th 2017

Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a worksh...

Bigi ties – Milan workshop

Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a worksh...

Shirts and ties - TiesMay 8th 2017

Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from N...

May 7th 2017

As is now customary (after three seasons we can say that, right?) I picked out my favourite 10 pieces from No Man Walks Alone's stock last week.  I took advantage of being in New York to go through most things in person...

Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from N...

As is now customary (after three seasons we can say that, right?) I picked out my favourite 10 pieces from No Man Walks Alone's stock last week.  I took advantage of being in New York to go through most things in person...

Casual wearMay 7th 2017

Seven levels of formality

May 4th 2017

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes c...

Seven levels of formality

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes c...

StyleMay 4th 2017

Blamo!

May 2nd 2017

American podcast Blamo! recently featured an interview with me, which you might enjoy listening to. Founded by ex-Armoury man Jeremy Kirkland, it interviews both fashion and music innovators to talk about their experie...

Blamo!

American podcast Blamo! recently featured an interview with me, which you might enjoy listening to. Founded by ex-Armoury man Jeremy Kirkland, it interviews both fashion and music innovators to talk about their experie...

May 2nd 2017

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

May 1st 2017

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes.  Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested.  No,...

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes.  Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested.  No,...

Boot - DerbyMay 1st 2017

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

April 28th 2017

Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suff...

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suff...

Tailoring - TrousersApril 28th 2017

Battle Hymn

April 26th 2017

This is going to sound rather cheesy. Forgive me. I believe in Permanent Style. I believe in the value of investing in products made to last. And I believe in style that lasts decades, even centuries. (Though maybe not f...

Battle Hymn

This is going to sound rather cheesy. Forgive me. I believe in Permanent Style. I believe in the value of investing in products made to last. And I believe in style that lasts decades, even centuries. (Though maybe not f...

April 26th 2017

Denim

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 26th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this.  T...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket – from C...

April 7th 2017

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal through the use of casual cloths is attractive.  It retains th...

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket – from C...

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal through the use of casual cloths is attractive.  It retains th...

Casual wear - DenimApril 7th 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It also ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016