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Introducing: The Wax Walker

October 28th 2020

Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...

Introducing: The Wax Walker

Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often w...

CoatsOctober 28th 2020

Latest Posts

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

October 26th 2020

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork...

JacketsOctober 26th 2020

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat

October 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a besp...

CoatsOctober 23rd 2020

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

October 21st 2020

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk t...

Alterations and care - TrousersOctober 21st 2020

New book: 'Bespoke Style'

October 19th 2020

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...

New book: 'Bespoke Style'

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of tryi...

SuitsOctober 19th 2020

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

October 16th 2020

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it a...

October 16th 2020

Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future

October 14th 2020

Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...

Francesco Maglia umbrellas: Past, present and future

Francesco Maglia makes some of the finest umbrellas in the world. Indeed, it might make most of the fine umbrellas, given how many it makes for other brands as well as for itself. Yet (as is often the way with luxury me...

Umbrellas and glovesOctober 14th 2020

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath

October 12th 2020

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear underneath

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and ...

KnitwearOctober 12th 2020

Postcard from Stockholm

October 9th 2020

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...

Postcard from Stockholm

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do saniti...

October 9th 2020

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

October 7th 2020

With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly tho...

ShirtsOctober 7th 2020

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

October 5th 2020

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measu...

Knitwear - TiesOctober 5th 2020

Latest Posts Continued

Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau

October 2nd 2020

I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...

Colour in the city: Dress like Jean-Manuel Moreau

I asked Jean-Manuel Moreau to be the next chapter in our ‘ How to dress like’ series specifically because of the way he wears colour. Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations that feel new and intere...

StyleOctober 2nd 2020

My beard

September 30th 2020

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I&rs...

My beard

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I&rs...

September 30th 2020

The formal tieless jacket - with Steven Hitchcock

September 28th 2020

How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, wi...

The formal tieless jacket - with Steven Hitchcock

How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, wi...

Jackets - StyleSeptember 28th 2020

Postcard from Milan

September 25th 2020

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, th...

Postcard from Milan

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, th...

September 25th 2020

Introducing: The new donegal coat

September 23rd 2020

This is the new Donegal Overcoat - the update on the raglan coat released last year. The only change on that version is the colour and the weight of the cloth. We decided to go with a heavier tweed this year, to make it...

Introducing: The new donegal coat

This is the new Donegal Overcoat - the update on the raglan coat released last year. The only change on that version is the colour and the weight of the cloth. We decided to go with a heavier tweed this year, to make it...

CoatsSeptember 23rd 2020

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

September 21st 2020

Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little u...

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little u...

JacketsSeptember 21st 2020

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tailoring

September 18th 2020

Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in Walthamstow, north-east London. Their look is unusual and dramatic. It’s not something I...

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke tailoring

Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in Walthamstow, north-east London. Their look is unusual and dramatic. It’s not something I...

SuitsSeptember 18th 2020

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

September 16th 2020

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My...

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My...

JacketsSeptember 16th 2020

The Guide to Shirt Cuffs

September 14th 2020

This is the second in our series looking at style aspects of shirts. As with the previous one – on shirt collars – it will focus on sensible advice, rather than illustrating the myriad gimmicks with ...

The Guide to Shirt Cuffs

This is the second in our series looking at style aspects of shirts. As with the previous one – on shirt collars – it will focus on sensible advice, rather than illustrating the myriad gimmicks with ...

ShirtsSeptember 14th 2020

Workwear and tailoring: How to dress like Willy Wang

September 11th 2020

I first spent time with Willy Wang ( @wwc.willy) last year during our pop-up shop on Savile Row, when he was here with The Anthology. (He works in the company’s Taipei store, which is also a Bryceland’s reta...

Workwear and tailoring: How to dress like Willy Wang

I first spent time with Willy Wang ( @wwc.willy) last year during our pop-up shop on Savile Row, when he was here with The Anthology. (He works in the company’s Taipei store, which is also a Bryceland’s reta...

StyleSeptember 11th 2020

Introducing: The nubuck tote

September 9th 2020

*North American customers: Please purchase through the Frank Clegg website. They are holding stock too, and you will save shipping and duties* The idea behind the PS Shop is to produce occasional pieces of menswear that...

Introducing: The nubuck tote

*North American customers: Please purchase through the Frank Clegg website. They are holding stock too, and you will save shipping and duties* The idea behind the PS Shop is to produce occasional pieces of menswear that...

BagsSeptember 9th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)

September 4th 2020

My Cifonelli velvet jacket The cloth that you select for a tuxedo (or black tie) probably won’t get as much thought as the design, the shirt or indeed your bow tie. The options are fairly limited, and all those oth...

The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)

My Cifonelli velvet jacket The cloth that you select for a tuxedo (or black tie) probably won’t get as much thought as the design, the shirt or indeed your bow tie. The options are fairly limited, and all those oth...

Black tie - ClothSeptember 4th 2020

How Permanent Style works as a business

September 2nd 2020

Fashion media has had a hard time of it in recent years, with near constant disruption - which Covid-19 has only made worse. So why am I confident that Permanent Style can survive this turmoil? What revenue streams supp...

How Permanent Style works as a business

Fashion media has had a hard time of it in recent years, with near constant disruption - which Covid-19 has only made worse. So why am I confident that Permanent Style can survive this turmoil? What revenue streams supp...

September 2nd 2020

The guide to shirt collars – and what suits you

August 31st 2020

With the slow disappearance of the tie from the male wardrobe, the shirt collar has become increasingly important. It now bears almost sole responsibility for framing and flattering the face. However, guides to shirt c...

The guide to shirt collars – and what suits you

With the slow disappearance of the tie from the male wardrobe, the shirt collar has become increasingly important. It now bears almost sole responsibility for framing and flattering the face. However, guides to shirt c...

ShirtsAugust 31st 2020

The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review

August 28th 2020

With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong ...

The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review

With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong ...

SuitsAugust 28th 2020

Denim

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the ...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

Reader Qs

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019