Home

Latest Post

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

May 25th 2018

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Black tie - OxfordMay 25th 2018

Latest Posts

The Finest Tailors series

May 24th 2018

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or mak...

The Finest Tailors series

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or mak...

Finding a tailor - StyleMay 24th 2018

The Media Symposium – please RSVP

May 23rd 2018

Details for our Media Symposium at Pitti. It's going to be such a laugh. Please do RSVP, as the places are a little limited by the theatre space and dinner. Thanks Related posts The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo Janu...

The Media Symposium – please RSVP

Details for our Media Symposium at Pitti. It's going to be such a laugh. Please do RSVP, as the places are a little limited by the theatre space and dinner. Thanks Related posts The Accessories Symposium, Pitti Uomo Janu...

May 23rd 2018

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

May 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me question...

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me question...

Belts and wallets - JacketsMay 21st 2018

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

May 18th 2018

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

Casual wear - DenimMay 18th 2018

The guide to business shirt fabrics

May 16th 2018

[This is part of a series that aims to produce a comprehensive guide to shirt fabrics, from the simplest points to the most technical. So far we have introduced the basics of selecting shirt fabric, and gone into depth o...

The guide to business shirt fabrics

[This is part of a series that aims to produce a comprehensive guide to shirt fabrics, from the simplest points to the most technical. So far we have introduced the basics of selecting shirt fabric, and gone into depth o...

ShirtsMay 16th 2018

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

May 14th 2018

Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its v...

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its v...

May 14th 2018

Vintage gold cuff

May 11th 2018

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not...

Vintage gold cuff

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not...

AccessoriesMay 11th 2018

Introducing: PS Oxford fabric

May 9th 2018

I’ve always found that an oxford shirt fills a very specific gap in my wardrobe. Smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - it is also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal ...

Introducing: PS Oxford fabric

I’ve always found that an oxford shirt fills a very specific gap in my wardrobe. Smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - it is also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal ...

ShirtsMay 9th 2018

Point collars – at Budd

May 7th 2018

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread...

Point collars – at Budd

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesMay 7th 2018

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

May 4th 2018

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp.   Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went w...

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp.   Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went w...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 4th 2018

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from disc...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from disc...

Accessories - BagsMay 2nd 2018

Trouser measurements, style and proportions

April 30th 2018

One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser ...

Trouser measurements, style and proportions

One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser ...

TrousersApril 30th 2018

The next Symposium: Menswear and modern media

April 28th 2018

In this instalment we're going to be debating how fashion media is changing, and how it's affecting brands and customers. Should be really interesting - and lively! Great speakers to be announced.  There will also be an...

The next Symposium: Menswear and modern media

In this instalment we're going to be debating how fashion media is changing, and how it's affecting brands and customers. Should be really interesting - and lively! Great speakers to be announced.  There will also be an...

April 28th 2018

Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive

April 26th 2018

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four ...

Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four ...

PolosApril 26th 2018

Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, and...

April 24th 2018

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th.  They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event...

Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, and...

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th.  They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event...

Casual jackets - Casual wearApril 24th 2018

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

April 23rd 2018

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be ...

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be ...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesApril 23rd 2018

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the...

Casual wear - GlassesApril 20th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘od...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘od...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

April 13th 2018

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about suc...

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about suc...

Alterations and maintenance - TailoringApril 13th 2018

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

April 11th 2018

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of t...

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of t...

ShirtsApril 11th 2018

Melbourne: A sartorial shopping guide

April 9th 2018

Australia might not be the first country anyone associates with tailoring and classic menswear, but Melbourne has a greater range than most of the rest of the country. This is partly due to the fact that it has clear sea...

Melbourne: A sartorial shopping guide

Australia might not be the first country anyone associates with tailoring and classic menswear, but Melbourne has a greater range than most of the rest of the country. This is partly due to the fact that it has clear sea...

April 9th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

April 6th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladia...

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladia...

TailorsApril 6th 2018

Wearing warm and cold colours

April 4th 2018

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things co...

Wearing warm and cold colours

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things co...

StyleApril 4th 2018

A Guide to Tweed

April 2nd 2018

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey wo...

A Guide to Tweed

In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey wo...

ClothApril 2nd 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

March 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Suits - TailorsMarch 30th 2018

Denim

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

May 18th 2018

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

Casual wear - DenimMay 18th 2018

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

February 14th 2018

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Casual wear - DenimFebruary 14th 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 21st 2017

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived two world ...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016