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The basics of selecting cloth

September 28th 2016

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...

The basics of selecting cloth

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...

ClothSeptember 28th 201612 Comments

Latest Posts

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

September 26th 2016

This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...

ClothSeptember 26th 201625 Comments

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

September 23rd 2016

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Loafer - ShoesSeptember 23rd 201633 Comments

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

September 21st 2016

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Tailoring - TrousersSeptember 21st 201667 Comments

Serge Amoruso leather goods, Paris

September 19th 2016

Of the four makers featuring in our Permanent Style trunk show in a few weeks, the one least likely to be familiar to readers is Serge Amoruso. So, some background. Serge is an award-winning leather worker and designer...

Serge Amoruso leather goods, Paris

Of the four makers featuring in our Permanent Style trunk show in a few weeks, the one least likely to be familiar to readers is Serge Amoruso. So, some background. Serge is an award-winning leather worker and designer...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 201610 Comments

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

September 16th 2016

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

ShoesSeptember 16th 20162 Comments

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 13th 2016

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...

September 13th 201628 Comments

How to talk to a tailor

September 12th 2016

I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...

How to talk to a tailor

I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...

Finding a tailor - TailoringSeptember 12th 201622 Comments

D’Avino in London

September 11th 2016

The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely ever...

D’Avino in London

The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely ever...

ShirtsSeptember 11th 201622 Comments

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 201660 Comments

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

September 7th 2016

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as ...

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as ...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 7th 201619 Comments

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

September 16th 2015

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...

Introducing: The trunk show calendar

Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...

September 16th 201528 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

Summer dressing in Robb Report; tailors and SMN in ...

September 6th 2016

In recent weeks there have been several pieces in magazines such as Robb Report UK and the Financial Times's luxury supplement, How To Spend It. Regular readers will be aware that I write a monthly column for How to Sp...

Summer dressing in Robb Report; tailors and SMN in ...

In recent weeks there have been several pieces in magazines such as Robb Report UK and the Financial Times's luxury supplement, How To Spend It. Regular readers will be aware that I write a monthly column for How to Sp...

Bags - PerfumeSeptember 6th 20166 Comments

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

September 5th 2016

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 5th 201621 Comments

Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto

September 3rd 2016

The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I m...

Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto

The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I m...

September 3rd 20165 Comments

Five double-breasted styles compared

September 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 1st 201645 Comments

The tailors I have known

August 30th 2016

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

The tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

TailorsAugust 30th 201684 Comments

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 201637 Comments

How to use the new website

September 16th 2015

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

How to use the new website

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...

September 16th 201521 Comments

Latest Posts Continued

A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...

August 26th 2016

One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...

A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...

One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...

Finding a tailor - TailoringAugust 26th 201617 Comments

Why I don’t wear braces

August 24th 2016

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Why I don’t wear braces

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Style - TailoringAugust 24th 201652 Comments

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

August 20th 2016

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

Cloth - JacketsAugust 20th 201670 Comments

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

August 19th 2016

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

TailoringAugust 19th 201618 Comments

How to respond to criticism

August 17th 2016

Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...

How to respond to criticism

Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...

August 17th 201660 Comments

Navy

August 15th 2016

Hi Simon, Your blog has been extremely useful as a body of knowledge, thank you for it. Would you mind commenting on navy and how it is worn? It seems to be over-used, or used in the wrong setting. I often see men weari...

Navy

Hi Simon, Your blog has been extremely useful as a body of knowledge, thank you for it. Would you mind commenting on navy and how it is worn? It seems to be over-used, or used in the wrong setting. I often see men weari...

StyleAugust 15th 201630 Comments

Richard James bespoke tailoring

August 12th 2016

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Richard James bespoke tailoring

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Jackets - TailoringAugust 12th 201636 Comments

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 10th 201647 Comments

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 20166 Comments

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

August 5th 2016

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Finding a tailor - Shirts and tiesAugust 5th 201637 Comments

Denim

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 201630 Comments

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 201631 Comments

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

May 27th 2015

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...

Casual wear - DenimMay 27th 201539 Comments

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 201519 Comments

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 201553 Comments

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 201546 Comments

Factory Visits

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 20166 Comments

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 20167 Comments

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 201530 Comments