Latest Post
How Florence changed with the pandemic
August 8th 2022“It was really eerie, Simon, with all the tourists gone." “I know that was the same everywhere," says Simone Abbarchi (above), "but seeing the Piazza della Signoria empty made it feel like we’d gone bac...
How Florence changed with the pandemic
“It was really eerie, Simon, with all the tourists gone." “I know that was the same everywhere," says Simone Abbarchi (above), "but seeing the Piazza della Signoria empty made it feel like we’d gone bac...
Latest Posts
Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock
August 5th 2022Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly p...
Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock
Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly p...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
August 3rd 2022Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Crist...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Crist...
Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out
August 1st 2022I ’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually t...
Rayon shirts, and tucking in or out
I ’ve been interested in rayon shirts recently, perhaps as I’ve been dressing a bit more casually and would like an alternative to linen. However, I’ve found it hard to find the perfect model. Usually t...
Coloured summer jackets: Final A&S commission
July 29th 2022How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but wh...
Coloured summer jackets: Final A&S commission
How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but wh...
What Ivy means to me
July 27th 2022When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I ...
What Ivy means to me
When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I ...
The appeal of a silk dressing gown
July 25th 2022As I wrote earlier this year , I’m usually quite conservative when it comes to gowns. They’re very practical for me, thrown on early in the morning to get up with one of my three daughters. They can still be...
The appeal of a silk dressing gown
As I wrote earlier this year , I’m usually quite conservative when it comes to gowns. They’re very practical for me, thrown on early in the morning to get up with one of my three daughters. They can still be...
What I pack when I travel – on holiday
July 22nd 2022A few years ago, I wrote a piece detailing what I packed when I travelled – focused on Naples in wam weather, but with application to colder weather too. However this was a ‘work’ trip for me. One...
What I pack when I travel – on holiday
A few years ago, I wrote a piece detailing what I packed when I travelled – focused on Naples in wam weather, but with application to colder weather too. However this was a ‘work’ trip for me. One...
Introducing: The striped short-sleeve shirt
July 20th 2022“A smarter short-sleeved shirt is not something I ever considered before, but I do actually like it.” I have to say I enjoyed the process of launching this shirt last year - i t’s fun to make something ...
Introducing: The striped short-sleeve shirt
“A smarter short-sleeved shirt is not something I ever considered before, but I do actually like it.” I have to say I enjoyed the process of launching this shirt last year - i t’s fun to make something ...
Hunter, Desii, Tartan: Florence's surprising vintage
July 18th 2022Florence is a surprisingly good city for shopping, quite apart from any menswear shows that happen to be going on. It’s always been a hub for craft, and even in the city centre you’ll often walk past a littl...
Hunter, Desii, Tartan: Florence's surprising vintage
Florence is a surprisingly good city for shopping, quite apart from any menswear shows that happen to be going on. It’s always been a hub for craft, and even in the city centre you’ll often walk past a littl...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit
July 15th 2022by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school&rsquo...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit
by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school&rsquo...
Latest Posts Continued
Aimé Leon Dore launches in the UK – worth a visit?
July 13th 2022There has been a fair amount of excitement in London at the opening of the new Aimé Leon Dore shop in Soho – their first outside the US. I can understand why. New menswear stores are rare at the moment, the ...
Aimé Leon Dore launches in the UK – worth a visit?
There has been a fair amount of excitement in London at the opening of the new Aimé Leon Dore shop in Soho – their first outside the US. I can understand why. New menswear stores are rare at the moment, the ...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
July 11th 2022The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often us...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often us...
La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade
July 8th 2022By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into...
La Manual Alpargatera: How espadrilles are handmade
By Manish Puri I’m sitting at a round wooden table in the back office of La Manual Alpargatera. The owner, Joan Carles Tasies, is holding a chilled bottle of ratafia in his thick right hand and pours a measure into...
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
July 6th 2022I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been ...
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been ...
If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers
July 4th 2022I began the companion piece to this one – looking at smart trousers – by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series . I was right. I thought this one would be ha...
If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers
I began the companion piece to this one – looking at smart trousers – by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series . I was right. I thought this one would be ha...
Some interesting Pitti picks
July 1st 2022It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...
Some interesting Pitti picks
It was nice to see Pitti back in some kind of working order recently, when I attended for the first time in two years. Attendance was still down, with many brands absent and indeed an entire building empty. That was a l...
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Latest Posts Continued
The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online
June 29th 2022I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...
The canvas chore coat – and buying vintage online
I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage. There are exceptions, of course. A Brycel...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
June 27th 2022By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket see...
Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review
June 24th 2022Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...
Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review
Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bes...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
June 22nd 2022This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Review
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can dire...
Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys
June 20th 2022By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...
Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit of Arnys
By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities b...
Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has ...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
June 15th 2022Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hy...
How to avoid getting burnt out
June 13th 2022It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...
How to avoid getting burnt out
It’s very easy to feel burnt out in fashion, and in menswear too. So much ‘new’ is thrown at you, all the time, that you get used to the stimulation. If at some point it stops hitting home, stops being...
The slouchy cardigan
June 10th 2022Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...
The slouchy cardigan
Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for ...
Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later
June 8th 2022Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...
Thoughts on my tattoo, three years later
Back in 2019 I had my first tattoo, and wrote a long and very personal article about it. As predicted it drew some very strong responses, but the curious, engaged PS reader came through - the knee jerks were a minority ...
Denim
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
May 25th 2022A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
What makes quality jeans – and should you care?
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass produc...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
January 19th 2022Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, someti...
Reader profile: Mattia
January 17th 2022I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
See all threads
No problem, happy to help
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
Read the commentsHave you seen the Milan shopping guide Robert? Have a look at readers' recommendations in the comments too. There is, by the way, a whole section of the site with shopping guides - look under 'Guides' in the menu.
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
Read the commentsAlways happy to help Jay. I hope those pieces are bringing you a lot of pleasure
Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Circle
Read the commentsThanks Andy. Yes, you're right the city itself was very busy - there was a big build-up of tourists that had wanted to travel for a long time, many people commented on having conversations along those lines. However, Pitti itself was no more than 60-70%…
How Florence changed with the pandemic: Abbarchi, Ugolini, Vestrucci
Read the commentsI'm not sure it is actually, though I'd have no qualms about wearing both together
Introducing: The new donegal coat
Read the commentsWonderful, thank you. Great story and illustration on the value placed on clothes
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Read the comments