Latest Post
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
March 22nd 2019This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...
Latest Posts
Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit
March 20th 2019I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...
Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit
I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...
March 18th 2019Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...
Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...
Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop
March 15th 2019A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...
Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop
A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s
March 11th 2019Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...
Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s
Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
March 8th 2019In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
March 6th 2019Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
March 4th 2019At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
March 1st 2019Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury
February 27th 2019Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury
Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...
Latest Posts Continued
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
February 25th 2019Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...
Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP
February 22nd 2019Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...
Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP
Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...
The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party
February 21st 2019Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...
The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party
Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9
February 20th 2019Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
February 18th 2019I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different ...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
February 15th 2019The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with...
Featured Post
Media Symposium – The debate
June 20th 2018Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Media Symposium – The debate
Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...
Latest Posts Continued
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
February 13th 2019While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a ...
Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…
February 12th 2019The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...
Pop-up number 4! Come to the opening party…
The opening party for our pop-up shop on Savile Row is next Wednesday, February 20th. All are welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands: in week 1 Optimo, Prologue and Joshua Ellis, and in week 2 B...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
February 11th 2019They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
February 8th 2019The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn....
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the d...
One million readers on Permanent Style
February 5th 2019In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...
One million readers on Permanent Style
In recent years, it's been lovely to see consistent popularity of Permanent Style's independent, long-form content. Despite new media and the volume of images, re-posting of images, and algorithms that pretend to be peop...
Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch
February 4th 2019Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...
Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch
Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them...
Strong colour in accessories
February 1st 2019The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...
Strong colour in accessories
The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong co...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
January 30th 2019Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
January 29th 2019This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is...
Denim
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...
Reader Qs
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...
Factory Visits
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...
Active Threads
Thanks
How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller
Read the commentsNormally these posts only include the Italian mills that make collections for a single season. Scabal and Dormeuil don't do that really, like the English. It was an exception this year to include Harrison's and Holland & Sherry because I happened to see some interesting…
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
Read the commentsNo, but there isn't that much difference between the Scots really - there might be in consistency, or minimum order, but the product is similar. Smedley is very different as it pretty much only makes fine-gauge stuff. And Peal is a brand not a maker.…
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
Read the commentsNo, but it's a fairly standard lightweight worsted. It will be a merino wool, in something like a super 120 or 150, around 9 ounce
Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men
Read the commentsAny navy should work really. The weave wont make much difference. Just make sure the navy is dark, not a mid-blue, and ideally have a little texture in it, like herringbone or a subtle check
Cavalry twill for trousers
Read the commentsI've found these cotton Cerrato trousers to be very useful, except that they're not quite as casual as a washed chino like Incotex etc. and therefore can't be worn with very casual things, eg trainers. That's not just these though, it's common to pretty much…
Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples
Read the comments