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Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings

March 1st 2021

“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And w...

Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings

“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And w...

March 1st 2021

Latest Posts

Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lange Lunes

February 26th 2021

Best stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan ...

Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lange Lunes

Best stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan ...

Casual clothing - ShoesFebruary 26th 2021

Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury

February 24th 2021

Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back o...

Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury

Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back o...

February 24th 2021

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

February 22nd 2021

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled wai...

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled wai...

ShoesFebruary 22nd 2021

Outfits I got wrong

February 19th 2021

Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wea...

Outfits I got wrong

Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wea...

Casual clothing - ShoesFebruary 19th 2021

Giving to charity: No Man Walks Alone

February 17th 2021

Charitable giving: No Man Walks Alone Runners up: The Anthology, Private White VC I was a little surprised by the cynicism of around this award. Clearly, people are seeing more brands than me using charity (at least p...

Giving to charity: No Man Walks Alone

Charitable giving: No Man Walks Alone Runners up: The Anthology, Private White VC I was a little surprised by the cynicism of around this award. Clearly, people are seeing more brands than me using charity (at least p...

February 17th 2021

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage sportswear

February 15th 2021

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. ...

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage sportswear

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. ...

Casual clothing - KnitwearFebruary 15th 2021

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan

February 12th 2021

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be s...

Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough & Morgan

One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be s...

Alterations and careFebruary 12th 2021

The future of Crockett & Jones

February 10th 2021

Shoe brand of the year: Crockett & Jones Runners up: Edward Green, TLB Crockett & Jones has won our 2021 award for best shoe brand - an accolade intended to recognise a shoemaker that is adapting to this age of...

The future of Crockett & Jones

Shoe brand of the year: Crockett & Jones Runners up: Edward Green, TLB Crockett & Jones has won our 2021 award for best shoe brand - an accolade intended to recognise a shoemaker that is adapting to this age of...

ShoesFebruary 10th 2021

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

February 8th 2021

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Mens...

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Mens...

KnitwearFebruary 8th 2021

Heritage brands at John Simons: Vetra, Dehen, FOB

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John champi...

Heritage brands at John Simons: Vetra, Dehen, FOB

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John champi...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

Latest Posts Continued

The joy of cordovan – and how to wear and maintain it

February 3rd 2021

I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (sho...

The joy of cordovan – and how to wear and maintain it

I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (sho...

February 3rd 2021

How clothing kept me sane

February 1st 2021

Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind...

How clothing kept me sane

Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind...

February 1st 2021

How jeans can be altered

January 29th 2021

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...

How jeans can be altered

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...

DenimJanuary 29th 2021

My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, par...

My shirt collars

When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, par...

ShirtsJanuary 27th 2021

John Simons – the shop, the history, the influence

January 25th 2021

In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andove...

John Simons – the shop, the history, the influence

In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andove...

January 25th 2021

Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed

January 24th 2021

We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...

Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed

We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wha...

January 24th 2021

Instagram Stories

Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon

Latest Posts Continued

Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring

January 22nd 2021

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...

Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tailoring

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to...

SuitsJanuary 22nd 2021

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

January 20th 2021

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2021

The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style

January 18th 2021

At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...

The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style

At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually t...

ShirtsJanuary 18th 2021

Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things age 

January 15th 2021

When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...

Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great things age 

When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better...

January 15th 2021

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review

January 13th 2021

Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Review

Bespoke shoes are a luxury for me, rather than the norm. Unlike bespoke tailoring - which I will always buy over RTW as long as I can afford to - I’m quite happy with a shoe wardrobe which is mostly ready-made. T...

ShoesJanuary 13th 2021

Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

January 11th 2021

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...

Awards 2021: Charity, e-commerce, and best shoes

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from i...

January 11th 2021

New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!

January 8th 2021

Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...

New daily email, plus 1.2 million and counting!

Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them h...

January 8th 2021

Designing the Anthology polo coat

January 6th 2021

Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...

Designing the Anthology polo coat

Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear...

CoatsJanuary 6th 2021

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

January 4th 2021

Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be awa...

TrousersJanuary 4th 2021

Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns

January 1st 2021

The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...

Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns

The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term &...

ShirtsJanuary 1st 2021

Denim

How jeans can be altered

January 29th 2021

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...

How jeans can be altered

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their lo...

DenimJanuary 29th 2021

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in th...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear o...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Reader Qs

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Factory Visits

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019