Latest Post
The basics of selecting cloth
September 28th 2016Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...
The basics of selecting cloth
Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...
Latest Posts
Introducing: The Guide to Cloth
September 26th 2016This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...
Introducing: The Guide to Cloth
This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...
Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...
September 23rd 2016The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...
Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...
The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...
Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples
September 21st 2016Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...
Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples
Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...
Serge Amoruso leather goods, Paris
September 19th 2016Of the four makers featuring in our Permanent Style trunk show in a few weeks, the one least likely to be familiar to readers is Serge Amoruso. So, some background. Serge is an award-winning leather worker and designer...
Serge Amoruso leather goods, Paris
Of the four makers featuring in our Permanent Style trunk show in a few weeks, the one least likely to be familiar to readers is Serge Amoruso. So, some background. Serge is an award-winning leather worker and designer...
Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years
September 16th 2016Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...
Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years
Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...
Introducing: The trunk show calendar
September 13th 2016Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...
Introducing: The trunk show calendar
Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...
How to talk to a tailor
September 12th 2016I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...
How to talk to a tailor
I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...
D’Avino in London
September 11th 2016The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely ever...
D’Avino in London
The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely ever...
The corduroy suit
September 9th 2016I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...
The corduroy suit
I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...
Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...
September 7th 2016I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as ...
Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...
I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as ...
Introducing: The trunk show calendar
September 16th 2015Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...
Introducing: The trunk show calendar
Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists, month by month, who i...
Latest Posts Continued
Summer dressing in Robb Report; tailors and SMN in ...
September 6th 2016In recent weeks there have been several pieces in magazines such as Robb Report UK and the Financial Times's luxury supplement, How To Spend It. Regular readers will be aware that I write a monthly column for How to Sp...
Summer dressing in Robb Report; tailors and SMN in ...
In recent weeks there have been several pieces in magazines such as Robb Report UK and the Financial Times's luxury supplement, How To Spend It. Regular readers will be aware that I write a monthly column for How to Sp...
Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris
September 5th 2016Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...
Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris
Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...
Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto
September 3rd 2016The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I m...
Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto
The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own shop in 2011. I m...
Five double-breasted styles compared
September 1st 2016Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...
Five double-breasted styles compared
Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...
The tailors I have known
August 30th 2016This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...
The tailors I have known
This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
August 29th 2016Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...
How to use the new website
September 16th 2015I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...
How to use the new website
I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation. People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however. So I ...
Latest Posts Continued
A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...
August 26th 2016One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...
A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...
One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...
Why I don’t wear braces
August 24th 2016Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...
Why I don’t wear braces
Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
August 20th 2016Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...
AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm
August 19th 2016I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...
AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm
I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...
How to respond to criticism
August 17th 2016Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...
How to respond to criticism
Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I received the finis...
Navy
Hi Simon, Your blog has been extremely useful as a body of knowledge, thank you for it. Would you mind commenting on navy and how it is worn? It seems to be over-used, or used in the wrong setting. I often see men weari...
Richard James bespoke tailoring
August 12th 2016Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...
Richard James bespoke tailoring
Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...
The suede blouson for travel
August 10th 2016Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...
The suede blouson for travel
Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...
Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit
August 8th 2016The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...
Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit
The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...
Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...
August 5th 2016The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...
Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...
The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...
Denim
Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...
June 6th 2016Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...
Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...
Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
May 31st 2016The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...
Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...
May 27th 2015Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...
Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...
Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you ...
Reader Qs
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
August 6th 2015As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...
Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...
As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
March 9th 2015Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...
The formality of trousers: Reader question
Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
February 11th 2015Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...
Factory Visits
Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit
August 8th 2016The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...
Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit
The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...
Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester
February 20th 2016This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...
Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester
This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with...
Barbour: Factory and repairs
March 4th 2015Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...
Barbour: Factory and repairs
Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...
