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The quality of 100 Hands shirts

August 15th 2018

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise o...

The quality of 100 Hands shirts

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise o...

ShirtsAugust 15th 2018

Latest Posts

The Permanent Style Guides

August 13th 2018

After 10 years, 2000 posts and 40,000 comments, there is a lot of content on Permanent Style. But readers tell me it can be daunting for a first-time visitor. So over the next few months I will be collecting together som...

The Permanent Style Guides

After 10 years, 2000 posts and 40,000 comments, there is a lot of content on Permanent Style. But readers tell me it can be daunting for a first-time visitor. So over the next few months I will be collecting together som...

August 13th 2018

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

August 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Cloth - SuitsAugust 10th 2018

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

August 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publis...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publis...

Suits - TailorsAugust 8th 2018

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

August 6th 2018

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and ...

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and ...

ShirtsAugust 6th 2018

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

August 3rd 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially...

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially...

Style - WeddingsAugust 3rd 2018

How I filter fashions

August 1st 2018

Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of...

How I filter fashions

Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of...

StyleAugust 1st 2018

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

July 27th 2018

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Ro...

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Ro...

Finding a tailor - JacketsJuly 27th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abov...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abov...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

July 23rd 2018

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory...

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory...

Bags - GlassesJuly 23rd 2018

Featured Post

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

April 10th 2017

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

How to buy ‘The Style Guide’

Our new book, The Style Guide is available to buy online through Permanent Style and in 3X specialist menswear stores around the world.  Copies will be arriving in the stores listed below on Thursday this week. Pleas...

StyleApril 10th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

Everyday Denim cloth – new batch!

July 20th 2018

The pop-up store opened last night at Fortnum & Mason, and several readers headed for the new batch of Everyday Denim fabric, which was nice to see. The one I have in it (pictured) remains my absolute favourite shirt. Th...

Everyday Denim cloth – new batch!

The pop-up store opened last night at Fortnum & Mason, and several readers headed for the new batch of Everyday Denim fabric, which was nice to see. The one I have in it (pictured) remains my absolute favourite shirt. Th...

July 20th 2018

How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

July 18th 2018

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation...

How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation...

Accessories - BagsJuly 18th 2018

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

July 16th 2018

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesb...

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesb...

TailoringJuly 16th 2018

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

July 13th 2018

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen,...

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen,...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 13th 2018

Come to the pop-up opening party!

July 11th 2018

The opening party for our pop-up shop in Fortnum & Mason is next Thursday, July 19th. All welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands that are being featured this time: Kirk Originals, Simpson London,...

Come to the pop-up opening party!

The opening party for our pop-up shop in Fortnum & Mason is next Thursday, July 19th. All welcome. Please do come along and support us and all the brands that are being featured this time: Kirk Originals, Simpson London,...

July 11th 2018

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

July 9th 2018

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having i...

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having i...

Jackets - StyleJuly 9th 2018

Featured Post

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

July 26th 2017

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

The ‘Style Guide’ dinner: What is the e...

Insert test Related posts The guide to summer jacket clothsJuly 24th 2017   -   0 CommentsRead More Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshopJuly 21st 2017   -   29 CommentsRead More What I p...

StyleJuly 26th 2017

Latest Posts Continued

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

July 6th 2018

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ri...

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ri...

Finding a tailor - SuitsJuly 6th 2018

Saman Amel knitwear: Review

July 4th 2018

Fit is the most important aspect of clothing. It’s something I’ve always believed and it bears repeating. Quality is perhaps next, and you need style in anything, but fit is criminally ignored by most men - usually i...

Saman Amel knitwear: Review

Fit is the most important aspect of clothing. It’s something I’ve always believed and it bears repeating. Quality is perhaps next, and you need style in anything, but fit is criminally ignored by most men - usually i...

KnitwearJuly 4th 2018

The next pop-up shop – in Fortnum & Mason!

July 2nd 2018

I'm proud to say that our next pop-up shop will be in Fortnum & Mason department store, over 10 days from July 20th-29th. Having been on Savile Row the past two occasions, it's great to be moving into a big department st...

The next pop-up shop – in Fortnum & Mason!

I'm proud to say that our next pop-up shop will be in Fortnum & Mason department store, over 10 days from July 20th-29th. Having been on Savile Row the past two occasions, it's great to be moving into a big department st...

July 2nd 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Da...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Da...

Glasses - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

June 27th 2018

Luxire is an Indian company based in Bangalore that launched in 2012 to offer made-to-measure shirts, trousers and jackets. There are many such companies, usually making entirely by machine and using a variety of online ...

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

Luxire is an Indian company based in Bangalore that launched in 2012 to offer made-to-measure shirts, trousers and jackets. There are many such companies, usually making entirely by machine and using a variety of online ...

Shirts - TrousersJune 27th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is...

Jackets - TailorsJune 25th 2018

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

June 22nd 2018

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard try...

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard try...

Casual wear - PolosJune 22nd 2018

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

George Wang, Calvin Zang and Gabriel Oberg Bustad, all (now) of Brio in Beijing Lorenzo Cifonelli Shaun Gordon Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling t...

Media Symposium – The debate

George Wang, Calvin Zang and Gabriel Oberg Bustad, all (now) of Brio in Beijing Lorenzo Cifonelli Shaun Gordon Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling t...

June 20th 2018

The Media Symposium – the dinner and party

June 19th 2018

Our Symposium on fashion and the media, held last week at Teatro del Sale in Florence, might have been our most enjoyable yet. Certainly, it ran the smoothest, with no logistics issues and a set of speakers that, frankly...

The Media Symposium – the dinner and party

Our Symposium on fashion and the media, held last week at Teatro del Sale in Florence, might have been our most enjoyable yet. Certainly, it ran the smoothest, with no logistics issues and a set of speakers that, frankly...

June 19th 2018

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

June 18th 2018

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same agai...

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same agai...

June 18th 2018

Denim

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlight...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

May 18th 2018

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans

Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, sh...

Casual wear - DenimMay 18th 2018

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

February 14th 2018

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to kn...

Casual wear - DenimFebruary 14th 2018

Reader Qs

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. ...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with trousers occas...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon,  Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Factory Visits

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 201...

Factory visits - TailoringJune 4th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan pr...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017