Home

Latest Post

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

April 19th 2019

Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ci...

SuitsApril 19th 2019

Latest Posts

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

April 17th 2019

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is g...

JacketsApril 17th 2019

My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...

April 15th 2019

Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...

My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ly...

Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project in 2011, which involved trying every major producer of luxury men’s underwear to see which I preferred. Zimmerli won that competition, and I’ve worn pretty...

Socks and underwearApril 15th 2019

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

April 12th 2019

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do ...

Casual jacketsApril 12th 2019

Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium

April 10th 2019

I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...

Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium

I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and...

April 10th 2019

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this ...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Three things that didn't quite work

April 5th 2019

This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...

Three things that didn't quite work

This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have ...

Casual jackets - KnitwearApril 5th 2019

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

April 3rd 2019

This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct clo...

SuitsApril 3rd 2019

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

April 1st 2019

This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, i...

StyleApril 1st 2019

The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking

March 29th 2019

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...

The shoe Super Trunk in London - and finest shoemaking

Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this ye...

ShoesMarch 29th 2019

Dressing for complexion: Should you care?

March 27th 2019

High contrast Readers regularly ask about whether they should wear certain colours, and why certain clothes might appear to ‘wash them out’. My opinion has always been that skin colour and complexion is less ...

Dressing for complexion: Should you care?

High contrast Readers regularly ask about whether they should wear certain colours, and why certain clothes might appear to ‘wash them out’. My opinion has always been that skin colour and complexion is less ...

StyleMarch 27th 2019

Latest Posts Continued

Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock

March 25th 2019

[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...

Everyday Denim and Lighter Denim shirts in stock

[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actua...

ShirtsMarch 25th 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the r...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit

March 20th 2019

I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...

Hermes silk printing, Lyon: Factory visit

I’ve been buying and wearing Hermes silk scarves for several years. (Indeed, a nice thing about the seasonal collections is, with a little work, you can date them all precisely). So it was a personal pleasure to vi...

Hanks and scarvesMarch 20th 2019

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

March 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (o...

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product ...

ShoesMarch 18th 2019

Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop

March 15th 2019

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...

Seeing the trees for the wood: The Rake shop

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so mu...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryMarch 15th 2019

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Featured Post

Media Symposium – The debate

June 20th 2018

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

Media Symposium – The debate

Our debate at the Media Symposium last week covered everything from influencers to Interview, story-telling to Supreme. It was one of the best discussions we've had, and probably the one with the broadest appeal. The aud...

StyleJune 20th 2018

Latest Posts Continued

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s

March 11th 2019

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...

Best lookbook 2019: Drake’s

Best lookbook: Drake's Runners-up: Stoffa, Saman Amel This was our first award on lookbooks, and I think it raised some interesting questions about how brands present themselves in their imagery. Certainly that was wha...

StyleMarch 11th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

March 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be...

JacketsMarch 8th 2019

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

March 6th 2019

Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...

Video: A bespoke shirt fitting

Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it ...

ShirtsMarch 6th 2019

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

March 4th 2019

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...

The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review

At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how depende...

ShoesMarch 4th 2019

The Guide to Performance Shirtings

March 1st 2019

Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...

The Guide to Performance Shirtings

Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because t...

Cloth - ShirtsMarch 1st 2019

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury

February 27th 2019

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not sur...

February 27th 2019

Introducing: The leather envelope folio

February 25th 2019

Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...

Introducing: The leather envelope folio

Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry ...

Bags - Belts and walletsFebruary 25th 2019

Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP

February 22nd 2019

Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...

Our first Hong Kong Symposium – please RSVP

Continuing our attempts to bring the Symposium format to more people around the world, we will be coming to Hong Kong at the end of next month - on March 26th. We plan to discuss the role of China in modern consumption a...

February 22nd 2019

The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party

February 21st 2019

Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...

The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party

Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations&rsq...

February 21st 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9

February 20th 2019

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such ...

Style - SuitsFebruary 20th 2019

Denim

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would norm...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and available...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Denim - ShirtsDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on ...

DenimNovember 16th 2018

Reader Qs

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

September 5th 2018

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair

One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...

Reader questionsSeptember 5th 2018

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Reader questions - ShoesAugust 6th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with tr...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Factory Visits

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...

Bags - Factory visitsJanuary 2nd 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the ...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018