Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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Yes, or maybe 11 is fine. Basically, worsted flannels are often worsted to make them more Italian-y lightweight, which is normally 10oz and below. If it's above that, the reason for being worsted is not really just to ma...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covere...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
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Sorry if I misunderstood. I linked it to your comments regarding the fit of suits from Gieves and A&S....
The best German tailors working today
By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkmar Arnulf www.arnulf...
The best German tailors working today
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Dear Bernhardt, nice article. Sadly missing Sandro Dühnforth, Hamburg; Sven Krolczyck, Kassel; Eva Schönherr, Fulda; Egon Brandstetter, Berlin; Josef Rottensteiner, Kreuth; Corinna Bennecker, Frankfurt. The young Germa...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference pressing makes, and the ones w...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
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True, though people sometimes use the term to mean slightly different things, eg someone who designs tailored clothing. I don't know though no!...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at Graham Browne . However, even...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
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Hi Dimitris I really like some of the wool seersucker suits I’ve seen on friends lately 😊...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Thanks all for the recommendations. Any opinions on Cavour shirts (regurlar or premium) as some are on sale and look great...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
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Hey Joe - so apparently I was misinformed and they do offer MTM for Ring but usually for repeat customers, not first-time ones. I'll update the article to reflect that. Sorry for the confusion...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
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I think I'd always go with belt loops, primarily because you will wear it often without a tie - the belt is a really nice other point of interest in an outfit like that...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
This suit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a couple of times on PS. Once during the fitting process in Seoul , where it frankly looked impossibly clean. And once when I wore it for our summer drinks in the Burlington Arcade. No sui...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
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It would feel a little empty I feel, which is why a DB can be nice, or you want something else going on - texture in the suit, stripe in the shirt, belt, perhaps glasses in the top pocket. That kind of thing...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
I’ve regularly worn T-shirts or crewnecks under tailoring over the years. Not as frequently as a collared shirt, but when you’re always looking for more ways to wear suits and jackets, the more relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial app...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
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Cheers John...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
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Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
Husbands in Paris makes quality menswear - tailoring and related clothing - in a particular seventies-influenced style that has remained impressively consistent over the past dozen years. The suits aren’t usually my style, but the fabrics are ...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
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I have both pre-post change manufacture, the new factory is definitely fast...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
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I'm not sure actually Samuel, sorry...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
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Sure!...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
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Great interview, had time to watch it properly now. Lots of interesting history and also positivity, A&S is in safe hands....
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Depends how long it’s been since the last suit. Have you gained or lost weight, become more muscular etc. I’ve also found that different material drapes a little differently… but perhaps that could be adjusted in t...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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The Faloni ones don't, I've tried them, and I don't know about the Saman ones but I seem to recall they were better but still not great. It's a problem we tried to solve for a reason unfortunately. The only other ones I'...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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I have recently acquired a solaro suit, and while today I am wearing it with the combination Simon suggests above (light blue shirt and navy grenadine tie), I have also sort of copied another look I had seen on Instagram...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
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No, sorry. There is often a stitch there for strength, but it's usually very fine - not really that hard to do for a quality tailor. Other tailors that do it more obviously sometimes do to show off handwork, or to make i...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs. The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli ,...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
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I think he is a gentleman who is more comfortable with other people standing center stage....
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might l...
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
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I ended up selling my Suit Supply suit for about 1/4 of the purchase price on eBay. Not bad considering the condition of the pants (some ware). This is actually another plus about Suit Supply - there is a market for them...
Reader profile: Ian
Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...
Reader profile: Ian
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Amazing! I bet Ian must have loved that. Thanks for letting me know...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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Hey Josh - finally got confirmation, it's Holland & Sherry 2024002...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
By Manish Puri A few months ago I had the privilege of speaking with Alan Flusser about the history of New York bespoke tailoring . From the opening beats of our conversation it was clear that Alan wasn’t about to be constrained by the narrow ...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
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In response to Ned Brown. Surely you recall Shep Miller located on Jobs La, Southampton! He also had a shop in Palm Beach. He had a wonderful selection of very colorful mens resort wear. I was a frequent customer....
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. Bu...
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
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A delightful read.....brought a smile to my face and a nod of my head in every paragraph....
