Better than Simon’s? My Luca Museo tweed suit
By Manish Puri. Although it arrived a little late in the season, that hasn’t stopped me from wearing my new Luca Museo Donegal Tweed suit every chance I’ve gotten. It’s quickly established itself as a favourite and attracts complim...
Better than Simon’s? My Luca Museo tweed suit
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Hi Greyson It’s one of my collection of Sekonda Raketas on a lizard strap. Pretty cheap and plentiful on eBay 😊...
Rome: A sartorial city guide
The ancient forum, at the heart of Rome By Andrew Borda. Rome is often a first port of call for visitors to Italy, due to its history, beauty and climate. I’ve had the great fortune of spending a lot of time there over the past three years, an...
Rome: A sartorial city guide
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Thanks Andrew. I am conscious that Rome is very big. To give you some context, I love Italy and have been there almost every year for the last 20 years. I am now visiting it several times a year (Naples, Palermo and a bi...
Trunk made-to-measure suit by Ring Jacket: Review
Trunk have recently started offering Ring Jacket for made-to-measure tailoring alongside their existing made-in-Italy lines. The Japanese make from Ring is a step higher in terms of quality and at £2010 for a suit means they offer something in...
Trunk made-to-measure suit by Ring Jacket: Review
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Cheers CDBP, and no worries at all. It is a good point to make, I'd say in general that bespoke is a better fit on average in my experience, which is why I think it's fair to say that, but there are always exceptions. On...
My experience with Florentine tailors
My first Liverano suit By Max Papier. I used to think the satisfaction of bespoke tailoring came from the finished garment. Over time, I’ve learned it comes from something quieter: memory, repetition, and the way pieces begin to mark periods o...
My experience with Florentine tailors
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That looks great. I am visiting the Assisi trunk show at the PS showroom early April. They seemed to be at ease with me bringing fabric, so they probably just cram it in like you suggest. but loved the insights my naive ...
Suits like cities: One way to understand Italian ...
By Max Papier. Italian tailoring is a wide term, and it encompasses far more than most people initially expect. Over the course of my career, I’ve been fortunate enough to try tailoring from across Italy in an attempt to understand which style...
Suits like cities: One way to understand Italian ...
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My company has offices all over Italy including Milan, Rome and Naples (but not Florence) which gives an interesting insight on how people dress differently across the country. As Petronio said, in Milan one sees almost ...
Double-breasted suit from The Anthology: Review
This recent suit from The Anthology was something I wanted as a casual, easy piece to wear with knits and chambray as much as a shirt and tie. It’s a look I find particularly pleasing in double-breasted styles but casual materials, such as cor...
Double-breasted suit from The Anthology: Review
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I think it's about 150cm...
The European tour: Bernhard’s sartorial jou...
In this second installment of his bespoke journey over the past 37 years, the author of Gentleman tells us how he gave up on Savile Row, but sampled tailors in Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Ukraine, Poland, Spain and Italy. By Bernhard Roet...
The European tour: Bernhard’s sartorial jou...
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Great article, Simon and Bernhard. I would add that Kathrin Emmer worked on a blazer for me this year, and I was extremely impressed with the quality of her work....
‘Deliberately unsexy’: Bernhard’...
At our request, today t he author of the famous ‘Gentleman’ book takes us back to his first forays into bespoke tailoring - working with an English and a German tailor in parallel. By Bernhard Roetzel. The first time I consciously saw ha...
‘Deliberately unsexy’: Bernhard’...
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I could not agree more. Keep it up, Herr Roetzel!...
Assisi handmade-to-measure suit: Review
It’s fair to say that since we first covered the Korean tailors Assisi here on Permanent Style, they’ve become extremely popular. They are now travelling to more destinations around the world, for longer, and we’ve seen many reader...
Assisi handmade-to-measure suit: Review
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Hi Michael, Can I ask whether you have read my articles on both Japanese and Korean tailors already? There is a dedicated article on Japanese ones here and then a separate one on Ciccio. For Korea, there is a general art...
The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
By Aleks Cvetkovic The low double-breasted jacket is arguably one of the most romantic expressions of tailoring. There’s something about the proportions, the poise and its cinematic past that combine to make it unique. It’s also a silho...
The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
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Understood. I think you might find this similar in use to a hopsack to be honest, but it would be a touch different...
Rock, paper, scissors: Nina Penlington Bespoke
By Manish Puri . Sat by the window of The Red Lion just off Jermyn Street, Nina Penlington tells me what first led her to Savile Row: “My plan was to learn some tailoring skills and move into designing menswear. After about six weeks I realise...
Rock, paper, scissors: Nina Penlington Bespoke
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I think it varies quite a lot with the cut John. Astaire used Anderson & Sheppard and they would provide the greatest freedom among English tailors, whereas Nina's is one of the more structured and would be less, whereas...
Andrew: My journey in bespoke tailoring
Our regular reader Andrew has contributed to many PS discussions over the years about bespoke, and given valuable advice to readers on both cloth and tailors. So I asked him to rewind a little and describe his whole experience from start to finish, ...
Andrew: My journey in bespoke tailoring
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This article explains the bespoke tailoring process very clearly. The emphasis on proper consultation, accurate measurements, and multiple fittings is important and often overlooked. Highlighting craftsmanship and long-t...
The bespoke style of Atelier Arena
By Aleks Cvetkovic. In bespoke tailoring terms, Tom Arena (above) has pulled off a clever trick. From his chic St James’s studio, he’s created a brand that is quietly enigmatic, sought after by all manner of high-powered creatives includ...
The bespoke style of Atelier Arena
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thank you for the encouraging news. keeping fingers crossed i get a couple wears when it finishes in October, but either way, the excuses to put it on 2027 can't come fast enough....
Who are my favourite made-to-measure tailors?
A few readers asked for this piece after I did my article on my favourite bespoke tailors of all time last year. I haven’t tried as many made-to-measure as bespoke - 20 rather than 60 - but it’s still a good number in terms of pricing, s...
Who are my favourite made-to-measure tailors?
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No, he just uses Instagram or phoning the shop...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
Over time, I am certainly dressing better - more tastefully, more expressively and more personally - but there are ups and downs. The trend might be upwards, but it’s still a scatter diagram. My history with tobacco-linen suits is a good exam...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
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It's a style decision and a personal thing, Martins. Tailors will disagree a lot about what's right. The break in won't make a big difference to that...
Spring/Summer Highlights 2025 – including b...
In this edition of our regular seasonal highlights we're doing things a little differently. First, I'm including bespoke commissions for the first time. This is in response to a few readers asking what, if anything, I’m having made, and it ma...
Spring/Summer Highlights 2025 – including b...
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I was not sure where to post this, but for those who want a more casual quarter zip than the Zagora that still fits a tailoring aesthetic, I can highly recommend the 18 East "Collan" zip collared sweatshirt. As with all ...
Look at me! The white suit on screen
By Robbie Collin. Robbie is the chief film critic for The Telegraph, a PS reader and a menswear enthusiast. On February 2nd 1660, Samuel Pepys passed the evening with half a dozen friends at Harper’s, a tavern by the King Street gate of Whiteh...
Look at me! The white suit on screen
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I came here to mention Queer. Craig's (linen blend?) suit absolutely sold the character. Is the costume guy implying in this interview that it's literally the same suit, only dirtier, throughout the movie? Because I can'...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdash...
A&S Haberdashery introduces ready-made tailo...
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Generally, yes...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni bespoke tailoring: R...
Last year, I wrote about how one of my favourite tailors in Milan - Ferdinando Caraceni - was closing. It was an interesting article about the challenges of running a bespoke tailor today, but sad for all the customers that had built up a relationsh...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni bespoke tailoring: R...
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hi Tom, yes. Yellow gold with blue dial....
Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review
I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year - in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure. The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all it...
Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review
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I'd understand your concerns HM, but I think Mattia would be good. Hard to tell for sure as I've never been fitted by him etc, and it would be ideal to know from a friend or similar about how the experience went, but I c...
Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
Linen : Linen We haven’t done one of these in a while, but a reader requested one in a comment on the ‘ How to pick shirt fabric ’ article, and it reminded me how useful people find the sliding scales. The idea is we break down tw...
Suits and shirts: A sliding scale of formality
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Thanks Simon, that's helpful....
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
By Manish Puri. The first dinner suit I ever purchased was from the online vintage shop Savvy Row : a nineties bespoke Anderson & Sheppard double-breasted. And, after some alterations - which, out of a sense of custodianship of the suit, I c...
La Bowtique made-to-measure: Review
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Personally, I think it would be a hard one to pull off. But then I'm inherently pretty conservative...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
By Manish Puri. For my money it’s the most beautiful building in New York. And yet, despite being lucky enough to have been to the Big Apple on more than a dozen occasions, I’ve never actually been inside the Chrysler. But today, after l...
Ralph Fitzgerald: The Chrysler Tailor
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Thanks for your reply Manish! I definitely look forward to reading your review once the suit is ready...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
By Manish Puri. I’ve had my eye on a dark green suit for a long time. So when Simon very kindly offered me a length of the olive flannel that he’d collaborated on with Fox Brothers, I jumped at the chance. To give me an idea of what I wa...
The versatility of olive: Anthology MTM in PS/Fox...
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Thanks so much - that’s incredibly useful....
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or Suit...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring
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I think at the moment the competition for this mid-level market (at least that's what I'd call it) is between SuitSupply (I think they have improved in style massively with the new cuts), Natalino, Berg&Berg and Cavo...
