Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

August 5th 2019

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known fo...

SuitsAugust 5th 2019

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

July 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual y...

SuitsJuly 17th 2019

If you only had five casual suits: A capsule collec...

July 10th 2019

  I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commonly used in recent d...

If you only had five casual suits: A capsule collec...

  I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually.  It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most co...

SuitsJuly 10th 2019

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

June 28th 2019

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know everyone is thinking about what ...

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know ev...

Style - SuitsJune 28th 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people ...

Bags - Casual jacketsJune 19th 2019

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That̵...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather lar...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieves ...

May 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieves ...

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it ...

SuitsMay 27th 2019

If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...

April 29th 2019

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here. &nbs...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule coll...

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its ow...

Style - SuitsApril 29th 2019

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

April 19th 2019

Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciar...

SuitsApril 19th 2019

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

April 3rd 2019

  This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct cloth choices, and how ...

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

  This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit.  Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct ...

SuitsApril 3rd 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply...

February 20th 2019

  Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed   @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approac...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply...

  Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed   @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biograph...

Style - SuitsFebruary 20th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

February 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diam...

SuitsFebruary 6th 2019

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael H...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit

November 9th 2018

The Campaign for Wool recently asked me to help them with a series of videos educating people on caring for wool products. Chaired by HRH Prince Charles, the Campaign is a charity that communicates how environmentally friendly and sustainable wool i...

Video: Maintaining and caring for your suit

The Campaign for Wool recently asked me to help them with a series of videos educating people on caring for wool products. Chaired by HRH Prince Charles, the Campaign is a charity that communicates how environmentally f...

SuitsNovember 9th 2018

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartoria ...

November 7th 2018

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...

White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartoria ...

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even...

Style - SuitsNovember 7th 2018

George the Presser

November 5th 2018

There are many unsung heroes of bespoke tailoring, but one of the biggest has to be the presser. Frankly, a jacket can look awful once a coatmaker has finished with it - dragged all over the place and wrinkled to hell. It’s the presser that gi...

George the Presser

There are many unsung heroes of bespoke tailoring, but one of the biggest has to be the presser. Frankly, a jacket can look awful once a coatmaker has finished with it - dragged all over the place and wrinkled to hell. ...

SuitsNovember 5th 2018

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

October 12th 2018

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. But they can be misleadi...

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. Bu...

SuitsOctober 12th 2018

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

September 17th 2018

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now...

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris – which is all close chests, roped shoulders...

SuitsSeptember 17th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

August 29th 2018

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)...

Hats - Socks and underwearAugust 29th 2018

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style brea...

August 24th 2018

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style brea...

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacke...

SuitsAugust 24th 2018

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

August 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. It will continue to be added to over the next few ...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the  Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue...

Cloth - SuitsAugust 10th 2018

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

August 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs her...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publi...

SuitsAugust 8th 2018

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

July 16th 2018

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Shaftesbury); we have tailors...

Prologue: China-made sartorial-style tailoring

One of the most interesting things about the growth in tailoring in recent years has been the way models have changed, split or evolved. We have bespoke suits being cut in London but made in India (eg Whitcomb & Sha...

SuitsJuly 16th 2018

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

July 6th 2018

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ritual, and does build relation...

The first fitting process – with Sartoria Pas...

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social r...

SuitsJuly 6th 2018