Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

June 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop...

SuitsJune 1st 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

May 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, ...

Casual clothing - ShoesMay 15th 2020

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...

May 8th 2020

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most t...

The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...

How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him?  Simple: never let him meet the customers.  I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cut...

SuitsMay 8th 2020

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

May 1st 2020

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.)     Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more tradit...

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.)     Sartoria Panico is known as ...

SuitsMay 1st 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

April 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop.  I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhap...

Coats - SuitsApril 27th 2020

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

April 24th 2020

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a...

Suits - VideoApril 24th 2020

Video: How long should a jacket be?

March 30th 2020

This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...

Video: How long should a jacket be?

This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kin...

Suits - VideoMarch 30th 2020

Video: How a jacket should fit

March 9th 2020

This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...

Video: How a jacket should fit

This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and ap...

Suits - VideoMarch 9th 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sl...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

November 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small an...

Knitwear - ShoesNovember 25th 2019

The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review

November 20th 2019

This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. Th...

The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review

This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology.  Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a ...

SuitsNovember 20th 2019

Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer

November 1st 2019

I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about his experiences. It's not a ...

Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer

I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about...

SuitsNovember 1st 2019

Suit style 6: Buttons

September 23rd 2019

This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here.     God, I love a good button. Some are ...

Suit style 6: Buttons

This is the sixth article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here.      God, I love ...

SuitsSeptember 23rd 2019

The dark shirt

August 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...

The dark shirt

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think.  It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of s...

SuitsAugust 26th 2019

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

August 5th 2019

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known fo...

SuitsAugust 5th 2019

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

July 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual y...

SuitsJuly 17th 2019

If you only had five casual suits: A capsule coll...

July 10th 2019

  I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually. It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most commonly used in recent d...

If you only had five casual suits: A capsule coll...

  I found it very interesting in our recent capsule suit collection article how many readers mentioned wearing suits casually.  It’s natural to assume that suits are for business. It is how they have been most co...

SuitsJuly 10th 2019

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

June 28th 2019

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know everyone is thinking about what ...

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know ev...

Style - SuitsJune 28th 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people ...

Bags - Casual clothingJune 19th 2019

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That̵...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather lar...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...

May 27th 2019

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it felt more immediate and person...

Green/black linen suit, with Davide Taub at Gieve...

Relief, and relaxation. Those are my abiding memories of this, my fitting at Gieves on a new suit. Readers commented on a previous post that it was nice to know what I was thinking and feeling during a fitting. That it ...

SuitsMay 27th 2019

If you only had five business suits: A capsule co...

April 29th 2019

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here. &nbs...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule co...

These ‘Building a Wardrobe’ pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its ow...

Style - SuitsApril 29th 2019

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

April 19th 2019

Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciar...

SuitsApril 19th 2019

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

April 3rd 2019

  This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit. Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct cloth choices, and how ...

Video: How to buy a bespoke suit

  This talk with Tommaso Capozzoli of Sartoria Vestrucci is a useful beginner’s guide for commissioning a suit.  Tommaso explains how he would work out what kind of suit a customer wants, how he would direct ...

Suits - VideoApril 3rd 2019