Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

January 30th 2017

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and...

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and...

Finding a tailor - SuitsJanuary 30th 2017

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

December 12th 2016

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this boo...

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this boo...

SuitsDecember 12th 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

Five double-breasted styles compared

September 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 1st 2016

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

August 3rd 2016

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Suits - TailoringAugust 3rd 2016

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Fit - SuitsJuly 29th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

July 6th 2016

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was im...

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was im...

Suits - TailoringJuly 6th 2016

Suit style 3: The double breasted

June 27th 2016

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but no...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner This is the third in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but no...

Suits - TailoringJune 27th 2016

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

June 23rd 2016

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the...

Suits - TailoringJune 23rd 2016

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

June 1st 2016

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fi...

Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit

Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fi...

SuitsJune 1st 2016

Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

How to - SuitsMay 27th 2016

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

May 11th 2016

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms un...

The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner

Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms un...

Suits - TailoringMay 11th 2016

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

May 9th 2016

Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, howe...

Suits through the decades: Bryan Manning on costume

Bryan Manning (above) is a cutter who trained at Kilgour French & Stanbury, before running his own workshop in various forms for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of his career, howe...

Suits - TailoringMay 9th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

April 25th 2016

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatm...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatm...

Suits - TailoringApril 25th 2016

I work in an office

April 1st 2016

A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a moder...

I work in an office

A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work in a moder...

Style - SuitsApril 1st 2016

Which house style suits your body shape?

March 7th 2016

So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one aspe...

Which house style suits your body shape?

So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body – accentuating one aspe...

Suits - TailoringMarch 7th 2016

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb & ...

February 24th 2016

Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued t...

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb & ...

Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued t...

Style - SuitsFebruary 24th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experi...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experi...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 10th 2016

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

February 8th 2016

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to p...

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to p...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 8th 2016

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

December 7th 2015

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the fo...

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the fo...

Style - SuitsDecember 7th 2015

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

November 23rd 2015

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs las...

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs las...

Suits - TailoringNovember 23rd 2015

Video: How to press suit trousers

November 20th 2015

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Video: How to press suit trousers

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Alterations and maintenance - How toNovember 20th 2015

Video: How to look after your suit

October 21st 2015

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it a...

Video: How to look after your suit

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it a...

Suits - TailoringOctober 21st 2015

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

October 2nd 2015

Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that few ...

Green flannel suit – from Brian Smith

Few readers will be surprised to hear that I like a nice green suit. Green is a wonderfully versatile colour, going with every autumnal colour you can think of, plus really strong browns, purples and oranges that few ...

Style - SuitsOctober 2nd 2015

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

September 9th 2015

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubi...

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubi...

Style - SuitsSeptember 9th 2015

Five tips on suit alterations

July 15th 2015

A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered o...

Five tips on suit alterations

A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered o...

Alterations and maintenance - SuitsJuly 15th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liver...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liver...

Suits - TailoringJune 12th 2015

How to make a cheap suit look good

June 10th 2015

Not everyone can afford a bespoke suit, or even a top-end ready-to-wear one. But there are many things you can do on any budget to improve the look of your tailoring. 1. Buy conservative If a suit isn’t of the gr...

How to make a cheap suit look good

Not everyone can afford a bespoke suit, or even a top-end ready-to-wear one. But there are many things you can do on any budget to improve the look of your tailoring. 1. Buy conservative If a suit isn’t of the gr...

Suits - TailoringJune 10th 2015

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

June 3rd 2015

My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way. I’ve always wanted a double-breasted mid...

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way. I’ve always wanted a double-breasted mid...

Suits - TailoringJune 3rd 2015

The 1-6 suit rating system

May 11th 2015

My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers – perhaps because he’s not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees a...

The 1-6 suit rating system

My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers – perhaps because he’s not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees a...

Suits - TailoringMay 11th 2015

Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch

May 5th 2015

Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, abou...

Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch

Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, abou...

Shirts - StyleMay 5th 2015

Interview: Jonathan Clay and the story of Italian s...

April 27th 2015

  Jonathan Clay runs a suit-making facility in Italy, supplying high-end English and foreign retailers. His father did too – d’Avenza – and here Jonathan explains that story: how Italians learnt ma...

Interview: Jonathan Clay and the story of Italian s...

  Jonathan Clay runs a suit-making facility in Italy, supplying high-end English and foreign retailers. His father did too – d’Avenza – and here Jonathan explains that story: how Italians learnt ma...

Suits - TailoringApril 27th 2015

A green cotton suit?

January 12th 2015

In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo’s cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make. Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth op...

A green cotton suit?

In my review of Spanish tailor Reillo’s cotton suit last week, there proved to be only room to analyse the fit and make. Yet a reader rightly pointed out that green cotton-gabardine is hardly an everyday cloth op...

Cloth - OxfordJanuary 12th 2015

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

January 5th 2015

This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment. The suit...

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment. The suit...

Style - SuitsJanuary 5th 2015

Linen suit from Langa: details

September 18th 2014

Some close-up details here on the linen suit from Sastreria Langa that we featured earlier in the week. You can see a few of the tailoring idiosyncrasies, as well as the cloth and work itself in more detail. Langa incl...

Linen suit from Langa: details

Some close-up details here on the linen suit from Sastreria Langa that we featured earlier in the week. You can see a few of the tailoring idiosyncrasies, as well as the cloth and work itself in more detail. Langa incl...

Oxford - ShoesSeptember 18th 2014

Linen suit from Langa, Madrid

September 16th 2014

Tobacco brown’s a nice colour, isn’t it? Definitely informal – due to its lightness and saturation – yet with a quiet sophistication. Colonial, particularly in linen, but without the baggage of ...

Linen suit from Langa, Madrid

Tobacco brown’s a nice colour, isn’t it? Definitely informal – due to its lightness and saturation – yet with a quiet sophistication. Colonial, particularly in linen, but without the baggage of ...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 16th 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

June 23rd 2014

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from mor...

Five tips on bespoke suits

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from mor...

Suits - TailoringJune 23rd 2014

Camps de Luca suit: fitting

June 2nd 2014

I’m getting pretty excited about this Camps de Luca suit now. Not only will it be one of the most beautifully made suits I own – coming from a Parisian tailor – but also one of the most versatile. In ...

Camps de Luca suit: fitting

I’m getting pretty excited about this Camps de Luca suit now. Not only will it be one of the most beautifully made suits I own – coming from a Parisian tailor – but also one of the most versatile. In ...

Suits - TailoringJune 2nd 2014

Camps de Luca suit, Paris

April 30th 2014

I’ve known the De Luca family for a while now – particularly since Julien rejoined the business a few years ago. Julien was English-educated and worked in the City before going back to join Camps de Luca, and...

Camps de Luca suit, Paris

I’ve known the De Luca family for a while now – particularly since Julien rejoined the business a few years ago. Julien was English-educated and worked in the City before going back to join Camps de Luca, and...

Suits - TailoringApril 30th 2014

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

February 21st 2014

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

Fit - SuitsFebruary 21st 2014

How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader que...

February 3rd 2014

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader...

How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader que...

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader...

Reader questions - ShoesFebruary 3rd 2014

How to buy a suit

December 9th 2013

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to buy a suit

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to - SuitsDecember 9th 2013

Cifonelli navy suit

December 6th 2013

Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since. He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed SB. I...

Cifonelli navy suit

Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since. He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed SB. I...

Suits - TailoringDecember 6th 2013

A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress

December 2nd 2013

In the search for decent sponge-and-press services, I recently tried Press2Dress, a dry cleaner based in south London and run by Michael Norman. Michael is developing an online service that specialises in cleaning and pr...

A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress

In the search for decent sponge-and-press services, I recently tried Press2Dress, a dry cleaner based in south London and run by Michael Norman. Michael is developing an online service that specialises in cleaning and pr...

Alterations and maintenance - SuitsDecember 2nd 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A&S

November 29th 2013

For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A&S

For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on...

Style - SuitsNovember 29th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

November 22nd 2013

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achiev...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achiev...

Suits - TailoringNovember 22nd 2013

In praise of the cotton suit

October 21st 2013

Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ag...

In praise of the cotton suit

Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ag...

Suits - TailoringOctober 21st 2013

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

October 4th 2013

The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here....

First Harrod’s video on suits and style

The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here....

Suits - TailoringOctober 4th 2013