Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Bags - Casual jacketsMay 2nd 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their r...

Casual jackets - DenimFebruary 28th 2018

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will...

JacketsJanuary 22nd 2018

Brands need to talk about product

December 29th 2017

There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should be more in my opini...

Brands need to talk about product

There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, ...

December 29th 2017

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

October 11th 2017

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual winter coats. As with th...

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casua...

KnitwearOctober 11th 2017

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

August 18th 2017

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather. But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write about something that's actually in...

Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan

Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather.  But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write ab...

Denim - KnitwearAugust 18th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

  Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this....

Casual jackets - DenimMay 12th 2017

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. ...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar.  Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alt...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 10th 2016

New York: A sartorial city guide

October 14th 2015

New York is a strange town for menswear. It’s a bit of a Wild West, without the same traditions of Europe and with bespoke largely undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it is for value: low-priced sack suits that a...

New York: A sartorial city guide

   New York is a strange town for menswear. It’s a bit of a Wild West, without the same traditions of Europe and with bespoke largely undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it is for value: ...

October 14th 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci cashmere jacket. The corn...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

    In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci ...

Casual jackets - JacketsAugust 17th 2015

The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan

September 29th 2014

If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter. No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts or polos, for everyone. Some m...

The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan

  If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter. No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts or polo...

Knitwear - StyleSeptember 29th 2014

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

January 12th 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such as this goes well with lot...

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief.  Tweed such...

StyleJanuary 12th 2014

RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit

November 27th 2013

If I have an addiction outside of tailoring, it is not shoes or ties but outerwear. Leather jackets, suede blousons, trench coats: I love the ability of such big pieces to radically change a look and a silhouette. Leather, cotton and their derivative...

RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit

If I have an addiction outside of tailoring, it is not shoes or ties but outerwear. Leather jackets, suede blousons, trench coats: I love the ability of such big pieces to radically change a look and a silhouette. Leathe...

Casual jacketsNovember 27th 2013

A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters

September 9th 2013

I’m not great at looking after anything apart from shoes. Suits I brush down occasionally, but certainly not after every use, and knitwear rarely gets much of a look-in. In an effort to change this I recently picked up a few of the garment care...

A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters

I’m not great at looking after anything apart from shoes. Suits I brush down occasionally, but certainly not after every use, and knitwear rarely gets much of a look-in. In an effort to change this I recently picked up...

KnitwearSeptember 9th 2013

How to buy a quality suit

February 12th 2013

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture i...

How to buy a quality suit

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid,...

SuitsFebruary 12th 2013

Ralph Lauren: The enduring appeal

May 28th 2012

This has been said many times before in more abstract ways, but it deserves to be stated distinctly. It is astounding how effective Ralph Lauren has been at selling a very particular dream over the past 45 years. This was my dominant thought during a...

Ralph Lauren: The enduring appeal

This has been said many times before in more abstract ways, but it deserves to be stated distinctly. It is astounding how effective Ralph Lauren has been at selling a very particular dream over the past 45 years. This wa...

StyleMay 28th 2012

Stuff on eBay

February 2nd 2012

In case anyone’s interested, I’m selling a few lovely things on eBay over the next few weeks – essentially ready-to-wear jackets or suits from Kilgour, Ralph Lauren Purple Label or others that have had to make way for be...

Stuff on eBay

In case anyone’s interested, I’m selling a few lovely things on eBay over the next few weeks – essentially ready-to-wear jackets or suits from Kilgour, Ralph Lauren Purple Label or others that have had ...

February 2nd 2012

The window dressing of Hackett

October 14th 2011

One of the main reasons that I (and I assume most other men) read blogs is to get inspiration for things to wear. Or to buy in order to wear. I know I should write more posts on the former. Ideally, every shop window should provide such inspiration o...

The window dressing of Hackett

One of the main reasons that I (and I assume most other men) read blogs is to get inspiration for things to wear. Or to buy in order to wear. I know I should write more posts on the former. Ideally, every shop window sho...

StyleOctober 14th 2011

English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure

September 27th 2011

During a recent conversation with Thomas Mahon of English Cut, I was interested to hear about the made-to-measure service that he is launching in India. The tailors he has hired and trained are among those that suffered from the tsunami in south Asia...

English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure

During a recent conversation with Thomas Mahon of English Cut, I was interested to hear about the made-to-measure service that he is launching in India. The tailors he has hired and trained are among those that suffered ...

September 27th 2011

Rugby Ralph Lauren and the Tweed Run NYC

September 13th 2011

Apparently I’m now a pin-up for Ralph Lauren Rugby, and its sponsorship of the Tweed Run in New York. Click on the site here and scroll down to the photos from past events at the bottom.

Rugby Ralph Lauren and the Tweed Run NYC

Apparently I’m now a pin-up for Ralph Lauren Rugby, and its sponsorship of the Tweed Run in New York. Click on the site here and scroll down to the photos from past events at the bottom....

StyleSeptember 13th 2011

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

August 24th 2011

One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, from Neapolitan maker Isaia, is ...

Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green

One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, fr...

Shirts - StyleAugust 24th 2011

The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan

December 17th 2010

I’ve always liked shawl-collar cardigans. One reason is that I have a long neck, which benefits from a collar. T-shirts and round-neck sweaters tend to make me look scrawny. Shirts, polo shirts and polo-collared sweaters provide more support. T...

The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan

I’ve always liked shawl-collar cardigans. One reason is that I have a long neck, which benefits from a collar. T-shirts and round-neck sweaters tend to make me look scrawny. Shirts, polo shirts and polo-collared sweate...

KnitwearDecember 17th 2010

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

October 20th 2010

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the insole does too; and the leather...

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the in...

KnitwearOctober 20th 2010

Wear charcoal with black

September 17th 2010

There are very few suits with which I would not naturally wear brown shoes – a deep, burnished chocolate looks better with everything from navy herringbone to grey check. But charcoal is an exception. The only other is probably black, which...

Wear charcoal with black

There are very few suits with which I would not naturally wear brown shoes – a deep, burnished chocolate looks better with everything from navy herringbone to grey check. But charcoal is an exception. The only othe...

StyleSeptember 17th 2010

Rescuing shoes

August 9th 2010

A lesson today in the damage caused by not treating your shoes right; but how they can be repaired if you don’t. My friend John is very fond of shoes. But he can be a little bit careless when it comes to their maintenance. My three golden rules...

Rescuing shoes

A lesson today in the damage caused by not treating your shoes right; but how they can be repaired if you don’t. My friend John is very fond of shoes. But he can be a little bit careless when it comes to their maintena...

ShoesAugust 9th 2010