Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in ...
Red Rabbit silver jewellery, New Mexico
One of the nicest things about our last ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up was getting to know Mike and Cody, from Red Rabbit and Wellema Hats respectively. At a show like this you basically spend five full days together, talking about m...
Red Rabbit silver jewellery, New Mexico
One of the nicest things about our last ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up was getting to know Mike and Cody, from Red Rabbit and Wellema Hats respectively. At a show like this you basically spend five full days to...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive, ready-made, bespoke and made...
Maison Bonnet glasses: Review
These glasses I had made at Maison Bonnet recently are absolutely superb. As I wrote in the recent post ‘My glasses’ I’ve tried several different makers over the years, including cheaper and expensive, ready-mad...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. Once you start to become inte...
My glasses: A journey in eyewear
I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. On...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-sighted from a young age, ...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product recently that it&r...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product ...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...
Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for g...
The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better online than others, such ...
Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for g...
The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better...
Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and th...
The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory back in November, I&...
Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and th...
The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factor...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from D...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes...
Vintage gold cuff
My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...
Vintage gold cuff
My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. No...
Holiday snaps 2018: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake...
Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory ...
Holiday snaps 2018: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake...
Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to vi...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining up his ties with his...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, linin...
The growth of bespoke and customised glasses
The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Lindberg and discussing future d...
The growth of bespoke and customised glasses
The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like L...
Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery
As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with menswear. It is best known for cuff...
Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery
As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with mensw...
Accessories for holiday
Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...
Accessories for holiday
Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...
My desk
Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...
My desk
Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the m...
A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit
I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes me from an aesthetic point of ...
A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit
I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes...
Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels
During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the only bespoke glasses-maker in...
Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels
During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is th...
Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear...
Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab of coloured plastic, an...
Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear...
Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab ...
General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, ...
Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. But as it has starting selling...
General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, ...
Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. ...
Codis Maya enamel cufflinks and jewellery
Pop-up Shop update: Lavabre Cadet gloves are in the shop today and tomorrow (Tuesday and Wednesday) for a trunk show. And on Wednesday, Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo will also be in the shop for a one-day show. Please do come along, and feel free...
Codis Maya enamel cufflinks and jewellery
Pop-up Shop update: Lavabre Cadet gloves are in the shop today and tomorrow (Tuesday and Wednesday) for a trunk show. And on Wednesday, Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo will also be in the shop for a one-day show. Plea...
The Dunhill archive
As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest often have the least to shout...
The Dunhill archive
As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardes...