The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

October 21st 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months.  The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and ask...

ClothOctober 21st 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the rang...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

October 19th 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably...

Cloth - October 19th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘o...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide woul...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy and...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy and...

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picke...

October 25th 2017

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

October 11th 2017

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual winter coats. As with th...

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casua...

KnitwearOctober 11th 2017

The cap

November 30th 2016

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...

The cap

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures,...

HatsNovember 30th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

   This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be gre...

Jackets - ShoesApril 13th 2016

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

December 23rd 2015

Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve worn their blousons, gilets...

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

  Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve worn...

KnitwearDecember 23rd 2015

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

October 30th 2015

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

   A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the...

StyleOctober 30th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

   Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in t...

July 17th 2015

The versatility of a gilet

April 10th 2015

The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable us to cope with cool morn...

The versatility of a gilet

  The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enab...

Casual jackets - StyleApril 10th 2015

The subtlety of a suede jacket

March 25th 2015

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but others ...

The subtlety of a suede jacket

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashme...

Casual jackets - JacketsMarch 25th 2015

How to stretch a sweater

March 5th 2014

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoes so much. One task...

How to stretch a sweater

  I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoe...

KnitwearMarch 5th 2014

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference).   Italian...

ClothJuly 29th 2013

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

April 17th 2013

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,000-35,000 metres a week (most f...

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,00...

ClothApril 17th 2013

Begg launches first collection at Pitti

January 29th 2013

One person it was nice to catch up with in Florence was Ann Ryley, who used to be sales and marketing director at Drake’s but left last year to help Scottish company Begg launch its first collection. Begg is an old name in Scottish weaving, g...

Begg launches first collection at Pitti

  One person it was nice to catch up with in Florence was Ann Ryley, who used to be sales and marketing director at Drake’s but left last year to help Scottish company Begg launch its first collection. Begg is an old ...

Hanks and scarvesJanuary 29th 2013

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well ...

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

Bresciani – factory visit

December 23rd 2011

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at Loro Piana, Zegna and others. B...

Bresciani – factory visit

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at Loro ...

Factory visits - Socks and underwearDecember 23rd 2011

Loro Piana: Quarona factory visit

December 14th 2011

My favourite room at the Loro Piana facilities was the first one they took us too: a vast warehouse, 50 metres or so high and stretching perhaps a hundred off into the distance. We stood on a metal viewing gallery about halfway up, watching a mechani...

Loro Piana: Quarona factory visit

My favourite room at the Loro Piana facilities was the first one they took us too: a vast warehouse, 50 metres or so high and stretching perhaps a hundred off into the distance. We stood on a metal viewing gallery about ...

Cloth - Factory visitsDecember 14th 2011

Postcard from Quarona

November 30th 2011

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Finest Menswear in the World....

Postcard from Quarona

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Fin...

Factory visitsNovember 30th 2011

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

October 26th 2011

I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I bel...

KnitwearOctober 26th 2011

Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit

September 21st 2011

Without a tie, men lose the biggest opportunity to express themselves easily in colour and pattern. But I don’t like wearing a tie every day either. The key if you’re not going to wear a tie is to add accents elsewhere, such as in a pocke...

Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit

Without a tie, men lose the biggest opportunity to express themselves easily in colour and pattern. But I don’t like wearing a tie every day either. The key if you’re not going to wear a tie is to add accents elsewhe...

Style - SuitsSeptember 21st 2011

A plain business suit from Timothy Everest

June 27th 2011

Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not have simple business suits made?...

A plain business suit from Timothy Everest

Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not ha...

SuitsJune 27th 2011