On baseball caps – and logos in general

September 18th 2023

Baseball caps are, in many ways, the lazy option for headwear. They’re ubiquitous, they’re cheap and they go with everything. I completely understand those that fight the good fight for brimmed hats, and feel it necessary to attack ball ...

On baseball caps – and logos in general

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Where I live the baseball cap is so derivative (here baseball is a sport), so overworked, and so trite that it’s impossible to take seriously a guy who wears one with tailoring. Trying much too hard for my liking....

HatsSeptember 18th 2023

Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?

September 13th 2023

A few weeks ago, a reader asked my opinion on a pair of suede boots that were clearly a copy of the popular Open Walk from Loro Piana . That soft, unlaced chukka has become so widespread in a few short years that some don’t even recognise them...

Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?

Match in comments:
It's an interesting discussion. Couple of points: 1. A lot of designs are identical, or nearly so, even the V-neck sweater only varies in minor details. 2. We think of copying as a situation of a less innovative company ...

September 13th 2023

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

July 7th 2023

Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...

The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...

Match in comments:
Hey Jonathan, Thank you, that's very helpful. To be honest there are a few things like this that I could do more if I had a bigger team, but as it's just me it's hard to do all of them. The captions is a good point, thou...

ClothJuly 7th 2023

A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches

May 10th 2023

My Brioni jacket in a cream beige wool/silk/linen Wool/silk/linen blends have been a favourite for summer jackets for many years, although in the UK they only started to be offered about 10 years ago. More recently, English mills have also started ...

A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches

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I'd look at the seasonal jacketing books from the Italian mills - so Loro Piana, Solbiati, Drapers, Caccioppoli etc...

ClothMay 10th 2023

To whisper with your clothes – or why I’m f...

March 13th 2023

By Andreas Weinas This headline might be one of the more confusing ones to have appeared on Permanent Style, but bear with me. Simon reached out to me at the beginning of the year, asking if I wanted to do a piece on PS about something I found parti...

To whisper with your clothes – or why I’m f...

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It's a nuanced question, it would require a full post at some point if it's worth discussing...

Style - WatchesMarch 13th 2023

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

February 7th 2022

By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...

A guide to brands of unstructured jacket

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I don't think so Andrew, but you could check. Bear in mind that, as with a shirt, you'd still have to press it well afterwards, and that pressing a jacket well is a lot harder...

JacketsFebruary 7th 2022

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

February 8th 2021

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

Match in comments:
Nothing's manufactured in Mongolia, that's where the cashmere is sourced from. As with everyone - except Loro Piana are pretty much the only one to do the sourcing themselves...

KnitwearFebruary 8th 2021

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

December 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

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I don't think the two are that comparable because the PS Rugby is that much thicker. I'd still take a 40 most of the time in the Colhays...

KnitwearDecember 18th 2020

Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit

July 22nd 2020

Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise a point that’s often mi...

Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit

Match in comments:
It's certainly a touch unusual, but I don't think it really looks that affected, no. If you're concerned, try it in a very normal colour, and wear it in a average outfit too...

Casual clothingJuly 22nd 2020

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

March 16th 2020

The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

Match in comments:
Probably not Dennis to be honest, the reception of them generally wasn't that great, and 90% of the questions I get are about classic cloths rather than seasonal ones, or new unusual bunches. There's probably a better ar...

ClothMarch 16th 2020

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...

December 2nd 2019

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...

Match in comments:
Hi. If someone wants to flaneur, let him flaneur away. I agree that Mr. Barnes is ever seeking his perfect imperfection. All power to him. Everyone has to have their passion or quest. Mine is finding the perfect thifted ...

StyleDecember 2nd 2019

The weekend capsule wardrobe

November 13th 2019

  A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

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It makes a big difference to how long you have to dry them for, yes. See our video here...

StyleNovember 13th 2019

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

October 21st 2019

This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019

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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...

ClothOctober 21st 2019

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

Match in comments:
I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

October 19th 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

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Thanks!...

Cloth - October 19th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

Match in comments:
Many thanks Lindsay McKee...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

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It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

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It is the case, and I'm afraid we aren't planning any, no...

October 25th 2017

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

October 11th 2017

The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual winter coats. As with th...

Our Autumn knitwear Top 10

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Hi Sebastian, Bear in mind that Scott & Charters was unusual in selling direct to retail as a mill, and I think over time they've proven why, as it's a hard model for a factory to do if they don't invest in the retail si...

KnitwearOctober 11th 2017

The cap

November 30th 2016

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...

The cap

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No worries Jay, no post is ever too old! It depends a bit on what else you wear, but I guess a dark-grey or mid-grey herringbone perhaps? Something with a little pattern but not too much, in a conservative colour, and pr...

HatsNovember 30th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

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I think that could like nice Wes, yes, in the right cut/style of jacket....

Jackets - ShoesApril 13th 2016

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

December 23rd 2015

Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve worn their blousons, gilets...

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

Match in comments:
It's always a pleasure...

KnitwearDecember 23rd 2015

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

October 30th 2015

A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...

Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers

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Thank you, most helpful...

StyleOctober 30th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

Match in comments:
Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...

July 17th 2015

The versatility of a gilet

April 10th 2015

The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable us to cope with cool morn...

The versatility of a gilet

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Yes I do, but I struggle to find good ones. They're often much chunkier - which is fine, but a different look...

Casual clothing - StyleApril 10th 2015