The CVO canvas shoe: Part two, the brands
The author in his shoes By Tony Sylvester. Last week, I cracked out some books off the shelf and had a delve into the history of the canvas sneaker, and its place in the summer wardrobe. This was a little continuation of a broader look at Riviera st...
The CVO canvas shoe: Part two, the brands
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It's small things about the shape, even though the quality is lower. I love my Doeks, but the shape is a little long, which also means I have to size up. They're still great, and it's only a particular Superga I found I ...
The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack – ...
I wore this new hopsack jacket from Paolo Martorano quite a bit this summer, which surprised me. Although I’ve had navy jackets in the past, since I stopped working in an office I tend to wear more earthy colours, such as browns, taupes or tha...
The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack – ...
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I'm not sure I know of one I'm afraid, apart from wearing a shirt or a bandana or something else on the neck...
Seven boat shoes compared: Quoddy, Yuketen, Parab...
Boat shoes and their ilk (deck, moc, canoe etc) have become a bit of a trend in the past year. Miu Miu, Bally and Loro Piana launched styles in the fashion world, while the likes of Ghiaia, Crockett & Jones and Saman Amel have introduced mor...
Seven boat shoes compared: Quoddy, Yuketen, Parab...
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Hi Paul Good suggestion to break in Sebago's over the winter with socks on. I bought a pair of their made in USA dockside's (probably manufactured by Rancourt) in a very sturdy waxed leather. I learned the hard way not t...
How Loro Piana’s style has improved
I thought it would be interesting to discuss Loro Piana here on PS, given it's probably the luxury menswear brand that has grown most in prominence in recent years, and which has changed most in that time. My personal history with LP goes back a fa...
How Loro Piana’s style has improved
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What I didnt say is what concerns me is that being under LVMH there will be overproduction of items and that can already be seen in men's knitwear and pants, for example. It means that LP is losing that uniqueness it onc...
How is menswear protected by intellectual property?
When we talked about copying in menswear recently, there was some discussion about intellectual property (IP) protection. The main question was why there are so many copies around - do brands not want to sue each other? Or does the law not protect t...
How is menswear protected by intellectual property?
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This is fresh in the news in Denmark, so I apologize beforehand for posting links to articles in Danish, hope it's not a bother to run them through google translate. Danish brand Ganni just won a lawsuit in Denmark again...
Reader profile: James
James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi. James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...
Reader profile: James
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Nice to hear Ragnar...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
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No, not really GA...
On baseball caps – and logos in general
Baseball caps are, in many ways, the lazy option for headwear. They’re ubiquitous, they’re cheap and they go with everything. I completely understand those that fight the good fight for brimmed hats, and feel it necessary to attack ball ...
On baseball caps – and logos in general
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It is, thank you. Interesting how terms change, in that only a few years ago I think a dad cap was just a baseball cap. I guess the only issue with a taller, more structured cap is that the style is rather different, les...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
A few weeks ago, a reader asked my opinion on a pair of suede boots that were clearly a copy of the popular Open Walk from Loro Piana . That soft, unlaced chukka has become so widespread in a few short years that some don’t even recognise them...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
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Well I'd argue there's another point on top of this one to make. Quality. Recently, my wife needed a pair of new shoes. She previously had both a pair of Clark's, and a pair of "More expansive brand" (to respect anonymit...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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Only that it would usually have a drier handle and more matte surface, which might feel less business-y...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
My Brioni jacket in a cream beige wool/silk/linen Wool/silk/linen blends have been a favourite for summer jackets for many years, although in the UK they only started to be offered about 10 years ago. More recently, English mills have also started ...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
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No, I'd say that's best for warm weather to hot weather. The best year round would be a pure wool, maybe 9-11oz. But of course nothing is going to be good for the whole year Having a bit of cotton in there probably would...
To whisper with your clothes – or why I’m f...
By Andreas Weinas This headline might be one of the more confusing ones to have appeared on Permanent Style, but bear with me. Simon reached out to me at the beginning of the year, asking if I wanted to do a piece on PS about something I found parti...
To whisper with your clothes – or why I’m f...
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I think you might be reading too much into it to be honest Shem, these are very much few and far between. Certainly to the extent of endorsing and publicly saying who they are wearing...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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No worries, and yes cuffing might be ok on such a casual jacket...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
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Hello All, I recently found a cotton suit by Loro Piana in a lovely sky blue with interior jacket label identifying the fabric at Cotton Flower. Is anyone familiar with this fabric? I’m curious to its weight etc....
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
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With the collar, it will be because its not standing up as strongly as it could, but that could be down to a combination of things, including the cut, button position, structure and placket. Sorry, it's hard to pin down ...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise a point that’s often mi...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
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I appreciate your thoughts and I agree. The trousers are always too oversized for my taste, but the knits are lovely. Jackets are nice too but I often need to size down....
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
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Yes it's a good point Greyson, we can try and do that. We should have more of the cloths in the showroom going forward as well, so that will make it easier...
Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...
I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...
Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...
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I would LOVE to have you as a friend and have regular coffee dates with you, merely to exchange such intelligent views in a manner that is so refreshingly devoid of dogma! Thank you Wes....
The weekend capsule wardrobe
A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one en...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
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No worries, sorry I couldn't be more help...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
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I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
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Thanks!...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
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It's pretty much £1000 today, so it's gone up a lot...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
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It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
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Hey, Interesting question, I actually don't know. I still really like that look. It might be because I wear slightly heavier shirts these days, or because some of my tailoring has got a little tight so I don't have the r...
