Coherence: Vintage-inspired Japanese outerwear

March 31st 2017

When I first heard about and tried Cohérence outerwear last year, I wasn't sure it would be for me. I tend to favour outerwear that flatters the figure and creates a straight-cut silhouette. So long in the body,...

Coherence: Vintage-inspired Japanese outerwear

When I first heard about and tried Cohérence outerwear last year, I wasn't sure it would be for me. I tend to favour outerwear that flatters the figure and creates a straight-cut silhouette. So long in the body,...

Overcoats - TailoringMarch 31st 2017

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

December 9th 2016

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 9th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

Bags - HatsNovember 14th 2016

Edward Sexton long overcoat – finished

April 18th 2016

This is the finished charcoal overcoat from Edward Sexton, and it’s hard to over-estimate how much pleasure it gives me. It’s a very different feeling from my navy Cifonelli coat. That is practical, every...

Edward Sexton long overcoat – finished

This is the finished charcoal overcoat from Edward Sexton, and it’s hard to over-estimate how much pleasure it gives me. It’s a very different feeling from my navy Cifonelli coat. That is practical, every...

OvercoatsApril 18th 2016

Edward Sexton long, grey overcoat

January 25th 2016

Last summer, Edward Sexton and I were sitting in the gardens of the Four Seasons hotel, Florence. It was a beautiful evening. Warm, with a light breeze, scattered groups sitting at the tables and wandering across the ...

Edward Sexton long, grey overcoat

Last summer, Edward Sexton and I were sitting in the gardens of the Four Seasons hotel, Florence. It was a beautiful evening. Warm, with a light breeze, scattered groups sitting at the tables and wandering across the ...

OvercoatsJanuary 25th 2016

Stile Latino grey double-breasted coat

December 30th 2015

For men who – for reasons of economy or laziness – want a coat that will go with everything, this might be the perfect candidate. But that doesn’t necessarily mean I’d recommend it. It was made...

Stile Latino grey double-breasted coat

For men who – for reasons of economy or laziness – want a coat that will go with everything, this might be the perfect candidate. But that doesn’t necessarily mean I’d recommend it. It was made...

OvercoatsDecember 30th 2015

Tips on buying an overcoat

October 16th 2015

One of these days I’ll put together an editorial calendar. It always comes as a surprise when people start asking for advice on overcoats as the weather turns cold, but it shouldn’t. The same people ask fo...

Tips on buying an overcoat

One of these days I’ll put together an editorial calendar. It always comes as a surprise when people start asking for advice on overcoats as the weather turns cold, but it shouldn’t. The same people ask fo...

Overcoats - TailoringOctober 16th 2015

Stile Latino – from Vincenzo Attolini

September 2nd 2015

I interviewed Vincenzo Attolini (above) back in January. This post is therefore a little late, although the advantage is the clothes will be dropping into shops now, unlike other pieces from trade shows where you have...

Stile Latino – from Vincenzo Attolini

I interviewed Vincenzo Attolini (above) back in January. This post is therefore a little late, although the advantage is the clothes will be dropping into shops now, unlike other pieces from trade shows where you have...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 2nd 2015

What is worth being made bespoke?

August 21st 2015

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

What is worth being made bespoke?

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

How to - OvercoatsAugust 21st 2015

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

January 26th 2015

For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over...

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 26th 2015

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

December 8th 2014

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable s...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 5

A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable s...

OvercoatsDecember 8th 2014

When we write about… E Tautz

December 3rd 2014

In our last post in this series on new London shops, we looked at how readers – with a natural affinity for fit and materials – could analyse the casual wear offered by Private White VC. In this post we shall...

When we write about… E Tautz

In our last post in this series on new London shops, we looked at how readers – with a natural affinity for fit and materials – could analyse the casual wear offered by Private White VC. In this post we shall...

Overcoats - StyleDecember 3rd 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

December 1st 2014

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get ...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 4

Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when I get ...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 1st 2014

How to dress for winter

November 12th 2014

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious...

How to dress for winter

I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious...

Accessories - GlovesNovember 12th 2014

Postcard from Mackintosh – drawing on the tables

November 4th 2014

Often the most charming aspect of a factory is the way its industrial environment has been altered by the employees. Usually that amounts to no more than photos of children on desks, or the scores of the five-a-side co...

Postcard from Mackintosh – drawing on the tables

Often the most charming aspect of a factory is the way its industrial environment has been altered by the employees. Usually that amounts to no more than photos of children on desks, or the scores of the five-a-side co...

Overcoats - TailoringNovember 4th 2014

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

September 5th 2014

A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would co...

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would co...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 5th 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

July 24th 2014

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 3

The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs...

OvercoatsJuly 24th 2014

Postcard from Paris

February 11th 2014

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from...

Postcard from Paris

I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from...

Overcoats - StyleFebruary 11th 2014

Loden top coat from Vergallo

January 23rd 2014

At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and a silk houndstoo...

Loden top coat from Vergallo

At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and a silk houndstoo...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 23rd 2014

The Capote – a Portuguese cape

January 1st 2014

Capes are extremely practical things. They cover all forms of clothing, from tailoring to the bulkiest knitwear, without any fussing with sleeves or fit about the waist. They are highly versatile, as well as being warm a...

The Capote – a Portuguese cape

Capes are extremely practical things. They cover all forms of clothing, from tailoring to the bulkiest knitwear, without any fussing with sleeves or fit about the waist. They are highly versatile, as well as being warm a...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 1st 2014

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

December 27th 2013

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how ...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 2

The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how ...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 27th 2013

Outerwear at Pitti Uomo 2013

January 9th 2013

The greatest pleasure at Pitti, of course, is discovering new things. But there are fewer than you might think. The majority of what’s on show is ready-to-wear suits, shirts and jackets, and if you have those made ...

Outerwear at Pitti Uomo 2013

The greatest pleasure at Pitti, of course, is discovering new things. But there are fewer than you might think. The majority of what’s on show is ready-to-wear suits, shirts and jackets, and if you have those made ...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 9th 2013

The Tailor & Cutter – overcoats

December 21st 2011

This extract from The Tailor & Cutter from 1935 should give some ample inspiration to those considering which of the winter coats to snap up in the sales after Christmas. An interesting point to note in the styling ...

The Tailor & Cutter – overcoats

This extract from The Tailor & Cutter from 1935 should give some ample inspiration to those considering which of the winter coats to snap up in the sales after Christmas. An interesting point to note in the styling ...

Overcoats - StyleDecember 21st 2011

It’s time for overcoats 2

December 8th 2010

The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finish...

It’s time for overcoats 2

The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finish...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 8th 2010

It’s time for overcoats

November 10th 2010

Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start...

It’s time for overcoats

Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start...

Overcoats - TailoringNovember 10th 2010

Of Homburgs, topcoats and fawn gloves

October 22nd 2010

Something we predicted a year ago Esquire, March 1935: “In the March issue for 1934, we introduced the black Homburg to this country. We said then that it was an established English tradition, having already enjoye...

Of Homburgs, topcoats and fawn gloves

Something we predicted a year ago Esquire, March 1935: “In the March issue for 1934, we introduced the black Homburg to this country. We said then that it was an established English tradition, having already enjoye...

Accessories - GlovesOctober 22nd 2010

Shetland and covert coats

April 16th 2010

The copy of Men in Style I bought recently is proving a daily inspiration to me, so I thought I’d share some images with you here. While some of them will be familiar, they are often reproduced without the accompan...

Shetland and covert coats

The copy of Men in Style I bought recently is proving a daily inspiration to me, so I thought I’d share some images with you here. While some of them will be familiar, they are often reproduced without the accompan...

Overcoats - TailoringApril 16th 2010

Fishy and polo: A photo update

March 12th 2010

I haven’t been good at posting pictures recently, so here’s an attempt to make up for it. Here we have images of the polo coat that has been documented in detail over the past few months, but of which I never...

Fishy and polo: A photo update

I haven’t been good at posting pictures recently, so here’s an attempt to make up for it. Here we have images of the polo coat that has been documented in detail over the past few months, but of which I never...

Overcoats - TailorsMarch 12th 2010

The coat project 5

November 27th 2009

We’re almost there with the camel polo coat. Since I covered it last we’ve had a second basted fitting, where it was ripped apart again and re-cut. Then it went away to be made-up and today I had the final fi...

The coat project 5

We’re almost there with the camel polo coat. Since I covered it last we’ve had a second basted fitting, where it was ripped apart again and re-cut. Then it went away to be made-up and today I had the final fi...

Overcoats - TailorsNovember 27th 2009

The coat project 4

October 1st 2009

I had the first fitting last week for my bespoke overcoat – a traditional polo coat in camel hair, with the addition of a full-length pleat in the back that can be adjusted depending on what is worn underneath. (Se...

The coat project 4

I had the first fitting last week for my bespoke overcoat – a traditional polo coat in camel hair, with the addition of a full-length pleat in the back that can be adjusted depending on what is worn underneath. (Se...

Overcoats - TailorsOctober 1st 2009

The coat project 3

September 11th 2009

Yes, that’s right. It’s a picture of me cutting the cloth for my polo coat. Russell at Graham Browne realised that I just have a natural tailor’s touch and decided I would cut the whole thing better tha...

The coat project 3

Yes, that’s right. It’s a picture of me cutting the cloth for my polo coat. Russell at Graham Browne realised that I just have a natural tailor’s touch and decided I would cut the whole thing better tha...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 11th 2009

The coat project 2

August 21st 2009

My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the cla...

The coat project 2

My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the cla...

Overcoats - TailorsAugust 21st 2009

The coat project

August 16th 2009

I used to buy overcoats too small. Because I didn’t wear a jacket all the time, I picked the size that fitted over a sweater, which was too small with a jacket. Now if anything I buy overcoats too big: to make sure...

The coat project

I used to buy overcoats too small. Because I didn’t wear a jacket all the time, I picked the size that fitted over a sweater, which was too small with a jacket. Now if anything I buy overcoats too big: to make sure...

Overcoats - TailorsAugust 16th 2009

Inspiration on mannequins 2: Cesare Attolini

February 2nd 2009

In my last post I got a little giddy over the colour combinations at Domenico Vacca. And with good reason. Whatever the value-for-money of his clothes, he is a master at combining the brights of menswear with background ...

Inspiration on mannequins 2: Cesare Attolini

In my last post I got a little giddy over the colour combinations at Domenico Vacca. And with good reason. Whatever the value-for-money of his clothes, he is a master at combining the brights of menswear with background ...

Overcoats - StyleFebruary 2nd 2009