Stoffa the designer Part 2: The clothes
Last week, I wrote about why Stoffa is my favourite designer brand. They're a designer to the extent that they create less-classic garments, and are design (particularly fabric) led. Yet they also have many of the characteristics that we value on Pe...
Stoffa the designer Part 2: The clothes
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No, I wouldn't say it was that similar, I'd say it was much more it's own thing. Slightly more exagerrated silhouette than the other two, and generally looser and more flowy. It's worth trying in person if you can...
If you only had five casual jackets – Summer
The Buck Mason belted-back chore coat Casual jackets and coats are one area we’ve yet to cover in our Wardrobe Building series . Mostly that’s because it’s such a huge topic – there are dozens of styles, from chores to blo...
If you only had five casual jackets – Summer
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Thanks Lawrence...
The design and quality of LEJ’s new outerwear
The brand LEJ has expanded rather in the past year, adding interesting outerwear and overall designs that are a little more sophisticated, a little more refined. And as a result, perhaps more suited to the PS reader. Luke Walker, the founder, is an...
The design and quality of LEJ’s new outerwear
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PS: Today's release email from LEJ reminded me that my quick release is of course in the cotton poplin cloqué fabric (not the HBT, which is the heavier cotton that they use for the Plage). Everything else that I said st...
Good things at Dunhill
I’ve always had a soft spot for Dunhill - in many ways it should be the flag-bearer for British luxury menswear, but there hasn't always been something there for me. Recently, however, things seem to have really improved. I was in the Bourdon ...
Good things at Dunhill
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Great article Simon - great to see recognition for both Dunhill and Holloway (in my opinion a fantastic designer). I loved what he did at Agnona and feel that in a short time, he is positioning Dunhill to become a very p...
The coach jacket: A practical weekend layer
A couple of years ago we had a big focus on casual jackets - talking about chores , overshirts and various other styles to round out the existing coverage of field jackets , blousons and other more sartorial pieces. One we missed out, however, was ...
The coach jacket: A practical weekend layer
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Hi Anthony - there are details about my sizing on this page. I'd suggest the best thing to do though, is compare the measurements of a jacket you have to those on the website, as the first step...
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
This is the first English overcoat I’ve ever had made - or a traditional one anyway. There was the topcoat from Michael Browne , but that was his own particular style and structure. And there was the wrap coat from Whitcomb & Shaftesbu...
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
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Oh good...
Why sartorialists should consider Stone Island
Stone Island is a brand that I think a lot of readers overlook - I certainly did for a long time. Yet the heritage of ‘form through function’ and reworking traditional clothing is similar to a lot of other brands we cover. You also find ...
Why sartorialists should consider Stone Island
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Another label with "certain" football culture associations is Lyle and Scott., Comedian Ronnie Corbett invariably wore their jumpers complete with logo when he performed his "Ronnie in the chair" pieces in numerous "Two ...
Introducing: The brown English Tweed
This might be my favourite material we’ve ever designed. A brown version of the English Tweed fabric first launched a couple of years ago, it’s dark and subtle, with great depths in the mix of brown and black, plus natural flecks of crea...
Introducing: The brown English Tweed
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Thanks Daniel, but I don't really think the style would work that well as an SB, sorry. There are a lot of very deliberate design decisions in there!...
Our favourite Ghiaia products – meeting in ...
Davide Baroncini of Ghiaia is one of the most stylish men I know, but we hadn’t met in person until this summer in Paris, where Davide was showing out of a top-floor appartment in the city. Meeting hadn’t necessarily been required becau...
Our favourite Ghiaia products – meeting in ...
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No worries, thanks for the reply....
Introducing: The Wool Walker
Our new coat this winter is a wool/cashmere version of the popular Wax Walker. It’s a versatile coat that I think is the perfect year-round piece for the city, but also great with a knit and jeans at the weekend. We’re calling it, perhap...
Introducing: The Wool Walker
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Great - thanks for the quick reply....
My first bespoke overcoat
By Manish Puri . Spring is well and truly here in London. I’ve just returned from a stroll through my local green which was fizzing with people enjoying cold beers and iced coffees. Through the window I can see my neighbour scraping last year...
My first bespoke overcoat
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This is a brilliant coat, Manish. What is the exact fabric? And what weight is it? Many thanks....
Spring/Summer Highlights 2025 – including b...
In this edition of our regular seasonal highlights we're doing things a little differently. First, I'm including bespoke commissions for the first time. This is in response to a few readers asking what, if anything, I’m having made, and it ma...
Spring/Summer Highlights 2025 – including b...
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I was not sure where to post this, but for those who want a more casual quarter zip than the Zagora that still fits a tailoring aesthetic, I can highly recommend the 18 East "Collan" zip collared sweatshirt. As with all ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at it ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
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I think it's nice, and indeed I've seen made up as a jacket, the texture is really good...
Loden: The cloth, the coat, the history
By Bernhard Roetzel. I was pretty convinced that Permanent Style readers wouldn’t need an explanation of the term ‘Loden’. Still, I wondered whether a very English retailer like Cordings felt the need to define the word, so I searc...
Loden: The cloth, the coat, the history
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It's quite thick and dense usually, so not so used for suits...
The versatility of the camel coat
The pre-order for the PS Donegal coats, including this one, will open on Monday. Details in an article then. Instinctively, you wouldn't think a camel-coloured coat (whether actual camelhair or not) would be that versatile. It's not the business s...
The versatility of the camel coat
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Fifthing Luke a whole year later! Every post a mini lookbook....
De Bonne Facture: More like themselves
I’ve known the brand De Bonne Facture for a long time, seeing them at stockists like Trunk and No Man Walks Alone over the years, and chatting to the founder Déborah Neuberg over dinner or at Pitti. I’ve also admired their philos...
De Bonne Facture: More like themselves
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Nice...
Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
Last year we did a series of articles analysing four of my overcoats from different traditions: Sartoria Ciardi , Cifonelli , Liverano and Edward Sexton . They were discussed, measured and picked apart in the ‘Style Breakdown’ format that...
Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
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Your C&M coat (which I believe is pictured) looks great. For comparative reference, roughly how much did you pay, if I may ask?...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
What is a ‘caban’ coat? Well, it's meant different things at different points in time, but it has a particular meaning as a sartorial version of a pea coat in Naples. The caban was originally something European sailors called a coat the...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
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Thanks Luis! I haven't seen examples from many other Neapolitans to be honest, and some of them (like the Ciardi one) can be rather different. Sorry that's not that helpful!...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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I may have been lucky, but the only time I bought a pair of second hand shoes I didn't have any problems with this....
Simon’s sizing advice (winter)
Every six months, I forget what it’s like to run the pop-up shops. They’re only four days each (London and New York) but they’re so intense, just talking to people non-stop for eight hours, giving advice and fetching sizes. I don&r...
Simon’s sizing advice (winter)
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I'm surprised it varies that much Mike, but I'd measure it without anything or with a thin tee...
Introducing: The Court Jacket
*Care update: The Court Jacket can be wiped down on the outside to deal with any dirt, dust etc. It can also be hand-washed to deal with any perspiration over time. Hand wash in warm water and hang to dry. For the new collaboration this Autumn, I w...
Introducing: The Court Jacket
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No George, there isn't. We did look at reds but they don't do so well in the Ventile I find...
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew making something that could be s...
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
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I agree that Private White’s marketing for ‘Spycraft’ is misplaced. The internal paradox apparent in their spy range is that spies don’t wear uniform. The exception to this rule, are authoritarian states where no...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
At the beginning of the year, I asked readers if they had a Wax Walker we could feature as part of our ‘Dry January’ project. We were focusing on how things age and become more beautiful with wear, and wax jackets are particularly nice i...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
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Hey, Nice! Don't baby it, certainly, it's meant to be worn in and will look better the more you do so. It will cope fine with a messenger bag - you might get fading where the strap goes but that's nice, it shows how it's...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will be in our old space at 20 Sav...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
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Yes, the dates for all upcoming shows will be announced next week, but ours is looking like April 23-25...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back, in new beige and re...
The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the best macs. Happy to help on ...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back, in new beige and re...
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No, sorry Will, we won't be restocking this this year. I would say it was versatile for that though, yes...
