The brand LEJ has expanded rather in the past year, adding interesting outerwear and overall designs that are a little more sophisticated, a little more refined. And as a result, perhaps more suited to the PS reader.
Luke Walker, the founder, is an experienced designer who has worked for both fashion brands (eg Lanvin) and more classic ones (eg Dunhill). That combination together with him being a real product person - obsessed with garment engineering and great materials - has always made him someone I’ve admired. He also just has great style.
However, the LEJ range hasn’t always felt like it’s for me. The aesthetic seemed more suited to André or Manish, who wrote on PS about their favourite LEJ pieces a few years ago.
In retrospect that was probably unfair, and I was being a little lazy. The LEJ products are all very well made, really good value, and I focused too much on the quick-release jackets and short trousers, at the expense of simpler chores and great blousons.
Not having a physical store didn’t help, always making me a little unsure about the slightly playful details. But I finally corrected that earlier this month, visiting Luke’s studio in Dalston and trying on everything he had. I loved the tailoring and the knits, and am happy to answer questions about either. But it was the outerwear that really got me excited.
One of the reasons I’ve always enjoyed talking to Luke is that he has a very considered view on everything he designs. It’s not just about recreating something from the past, or about what will sell the most. That might be a bit more standard at a fashion company, but classic-menswear brands, in my experience, have a tendency to:
- just reproduce an archive piece
- not see the need for any design view, or
- not have experience either way to design something well
Take the leather jacket of Luke’s shown above. The shape was inspired by old Ivy track jackets, which have a very clean front and panels that are cut on the bias, creating a very simple but functional design. The back, meanwhile, is taken from a Swiss ski jacket, which had lots of volume and a really tight cinch at the waist to keep all the heat in.
“These are very functional, mid-century designs,” says Luke, “but they create a silhouette I really love - an old Hollywood one in a way, with that big round back, nipped waist and tight booty below. Or like the dock worker’s, the Carhartt silhouette, with the roomy jacket and close-fitting jeans. Or a Wyoming cowboy in his waisted denim jacket.”
The more examples Luke gives, the more you see the links between these different references - and you see why the jacket has been built in this particular way, engineered from parts.
They also help you understand the product. You see why the back is big and the sleeves big. They’re part of a cohesive, complete design. Even the most quirky detail here - the strings that tighten the waist at the back - make more sense when you see it in the context of that Swiss jacket that needed to be tightened differently for each individual.
Interestingly, Luke always has a way he likes to wear these pieces - as you’d expect, given the design involved - but he shies away from saying how anything should be worn. “My nephew has this denim shirt I gave him and he never washes it,” he says. “He wears a T-shirt underneath and washes that instead, because he loves that sharp, flat indigo the denim starts with.
“That’s the complete opposite of me. I love clothes that are thrashed, nothing is more beautiful to me than an old piece of clothing. But it looks great on him and that’s his way.”
With the leather jacket, the corollary is perhaps someone loosening those ties on the back, so it’s not quite as cinched. “Or, the opposite - someone buying a size up and cinching it in even more, to exaggerate the effect,” says Luke.
The second reason I love talking to Luke is that we always get into materials - particularly, the best material for the look and functionality of the garment.
Luke’s biggest outerwear release this winter, for example, is a down-filled jacket with an outer shell in rip-stop nylon (above). “My default is natural fibres, and I love the old 60/40 materials the vintage down jackets were made of,” he says. “But for this jacket I wanted something big and round, puffed with down. The cotton mixes don’t expand like that.”
There’s that design intention - something shorter and rounded that most puffas, really sitting above the seat rather than halfway down it. And then there’s the functional side - “This is my cycling jacket, I take my daughter to school every day on my bike and then come into the showroom. It had to be something I could wear all through the winter doing that.”
I especially love it when Luke talks about personal references like this, because it brings the fun, fashion side of LEJ down to earth, and I immediately see myself wearing it.
The down jacket really is great - a slightly more exaggerated shape than the blouson, but in two great colours, with great details like the chevrons on the body, veg-tanned leather behind the snaps, and in both cases reversible to a darker, more under-the-radar colour.
Perhaps the most classic of the new outerwear pieces, though, is the other new release of the winter, the shearling jacket (above). This is based on the shape of a LEJ staple, the Plage Coat, which having tried on again I really must get a version of (probably black or brown) this summer.
What the shearling jacket most clearly illustrates for me is the quality of materials Luke uses - and the value for money in them. This is a lovely soft merino shearling, although the quality actually comes through most on the inside, which is unlined and just has the soft nappa leather. It’s a gorgeous piece, and from any designer brand would be much more.
“It’s a little like an Arnys garment,” says Luke. “It gives the impression of being simple and straightforward, all about the materials. But actually it’s hard being that simple - lots has to go into it. Because this doesn’t have a belt like the other Plages we brought the body in a bit, but only a touch because we still wanted the impression of a clean, straight silhouette.
“And we changed lots of things through sampling, like originally there was shearling on the inside of the collar and leather on the outside, but it looked too Tyrolean.”
Top of my hit list is the LEJ leather jacket, because it’s always been something I’ve wanted but found hard to wear. This seems like the perfect combination of quality and distinctive but subtle style. (My vintage one is these days, sadly, too small.)
But both the shearling and down jacket are probably the best examples I’ve seen, and if I don’t get either this year, I’ll certainly have them on my wish list for next. Any time I see Luke going forward, I’ll also talk to him about all the design and material decisions involved. For a product nerd like me, it really brings them alive.
Luke’s studio is open by appointment any time, by the way, and he has more public open days fairly regularly - the next one is Jan 30-31. I’d say the open days are easier, but a private appointment gives you more time. They’re also better for out-of-towners who can’t necessarily make a particular date.
Pieces shown and prices:
- Cinch Back Blouson in leather, £1495
- Doudoune + Out down jacket, £895
- Grizzly Plage shearling coat, £1595
I have three Officer’s shirts and find the quality and – more subjectiely – fit to be excellent. However, I’ve changed the buttons on the breast flap pockets from the standard black to MoP, to match the placket; the quirk of design wasn’t for me.
Finally, I’d note that each shirt came with a handwritten note, from Luke, thanking me for my initial custom / repeat business. Something that may be unsustainable as business grows, but that shows a focus on the customer and speaks to the character of the man.
The down jackets do seem like a unique design, which is also nice to see rather than a straight rehash.
What size works best for you on LEJ jackets, Simon?
Usually a 40, so pretty true to size
Lovely article, really enjoyed reading it.
I’ve also got my eye on the same pieces you mentioned, and yes, it definitely doesn’t help that they don’t have a store where you can try things on.
On the leather jacket: would you recommend sizing up, as Luke suggested some people might, or did you prefer sticking with your usual size when you tried it on? You’re a 40 these days, right?
Did you also try the puffers abnd shearlings in a 40?
I’m mainly trying to gauge whether you’d generally stick with your normal size across the pieces you tried shearling, leather jacket, puffer, etc so I can get a better understanding of what size to buy
Lastly, is the shearling material comparable to the one you did with Cromford?
Thanks!
Yes I’d generally stick to my normal size across them, which is a 40 now. Sizing up would be a little more dramatic, perhaps a little less classic. It works well on Luke and on others but on me more true to size
Hi Simon.
Did you also take a 40 in the plage coat?
Yes
Which colour of the down jacket would you go for?
I’m struggling to pick myself, such a difficult decision
I’d go for the beige, it’s probably the most versatile. But the red is great too and perhaps more fun
How would you style the jacket?
Well, I already have a vintage Eddie Bauer skyliner in a similar colour, which I wear all the time in winter – so at least from a general style point of view, and colour-wise, I have a good idea.
It’s basically a winter blouson, and beige is not a hard colour to combine in something like that (imagine a Harrington in a similar colour). I wear it with jeans of all colours, dark chinos and cords. Over a knit or a tucked-in casual shirt, with a boot or maybe a deck shoe. Could also be a trainer. That colour’s particularly nice with mid-blue, black and cream denim, and dark brown or olive in cords or chinos
Would you say the red is also good with jeans of all colours/dark chinos cords and colors like black cream etc.
I had a red Bauer one in the past which is not too far off in terms of colour I think. That was not quite as versatile but still pretty good. Bit harder with black and white jeans, not as good with some more rural chinos/cords like greens. But absolutely cracking with mid-blue jeans and greys
How do you wear the skyliner, Simon? On its own or also underneath another jacket?
Oh, definitely on its own. Some of them are more like liners and are thinner, but the skyliner with the elasticated waist (not falling straight) is definitely meant to be on its own
I’d go for the red one, ideal for the ski resort, but only without the logos. The red is great shade – and a welcome change to the boring and bland pallet of beige, black and brown. The price is reasonable but it would be useful to know how and where they can be cleaned plus an estimate of the cost.
I am genuinely impressed by these. All three look wonderful from the images shown. Three classic designs “with a twist”
The talk of materials and there importance had me worried re the price points but at the end of the article we see sensible pricing for once. I’m afraid that a lot of the brands you cover, have IMO, gone crazy with their pricing of late and it is so refreshing to see a small independent not fall into that trap.
Bravo Luke and L.E.J
Would agree that these prices seem more reasonable than some of the other brands. But they are still on the high end for most people on the average wage in the UK. Economists and the government keep telling us that the cost of goods has lowered but these are only for ultra fast fashion brands with clothing that isn’t built to last. If you want great value clothing your forced to look at brands from emerging economies and need a good tailor.
I think that’s fair Danny. I was just genuinely pleasantly surprised to see fair pricing for the level of quality and design.
Purchased my first few shirts from L.E.J two weeks ago and have been ever so impressed with the fit, design and quality. I’d become somewhat accustomed to what I purchased outside of a few core brands not being quite right in a number of ways and my excitement in the product shifting to frustration – not so with L.E.J!
I’ve got my eye on the leather jacket but also the camel hair blazer.
Great to hear your take on them Simon is also positive.
I’m a little surprised that you refer to Lanvin as a “fashion brand” and Dunhill as a “more classic one”.
Lanvin is the oldest Paris couture house still in existence. It is certainly a fashion house, but calling it a fashion brand rather cheapens it in my view.
The come up to the studio shorts look amazing – probably one of the few out there that looks great tucked and untucked. Finally caved and ordered one pre-Christmas (one size down). What are others’ experience with the CUTTS shirt?
I love the materials and colour selection – they really show how good Luke’s eye is and the focus on materials. I find the fit a bit too large for me to wear tucked in though. I’d be more likely to wear one just as an untucked/over shirt
I have been following LEJ for a while now, and purchased one CUTTS studio shirt. I love it but found the fit much too large, so I backed off for a while. But today, I saw the shearling jacket on instagram and immediately pulled the trigger (despite the price, which I know is reasonable for what it is, but is still quite a lot for me). I’ve rarely seen anything that evoked such lust in me! Now just waiting for it to arrive… and wondering how to explain it to my partner!
Simon, did you get a chance to try on the shearling? I’ve been intrigued by it, but am not sure how I feel about the stand collar. For some reason, I always feel less comfortable in garment that lacks a traditional collar. I’d be interested to hear any thoughts or feedback you have after experiencing the Grizzly.
No, I can’t comment on that I’m afraid Matt
Hi Simon, any chance you could expand on the tailoring and knits? I am interested in the camel blazer but unsure about the sharp angles on the pockets, on a jacket which seems (in many ways) super soft. Some sense of the references behind those design choices would be much appreciated, if your conversation included this.
As re the knits, would you describe them as mock necks or really crews with a slightly raised collar? Seems to me like they could be a really versatile middle ground under a tailored jacket but maybe I have got the wrong end of the stick. Would also be good to know where you reckon the cashmere sits on the luxe scale, if that makes sense. Cheers!
Sure Peter. With the Veste de Ville, the inspiration was around working jackets, for example worn by waiters or people in similar service roles. It’s that kind of easy, simple uniform. I think the square pockets perfectly align with that, although perhaps the inspiration is more clear in the cottons, and the black washed cotton Veste was my favourite among the tailoring.
On the knits, to me it was more a crewneck with a slightly higher collar – a good one for me actually given I don’t like most mock necks. The fit is quite roomy though, not sure how many tailored jackets it would go under easily. Have to be a fairly loose one – closer to a shetland kind of fit. The cashmere felt nice, though couldn’t say more on the quality scale.
Thanks! Much to ponder.
Interesting that you noted the cashmere fits roomy. I thought it actually looked a bit small from the measurement chart. 54 cm pit-to-pit for a size L sound rather slim
The price listed on th LEJ website for the shearling jacket appears to be considerably more expensive than the price you have listed in this article.
Really? It’s what I see – are you in the US and seeing a landed price there perhaps?
The USA price is listed as$2450 USD.
OK, so that’s including US duties, which were always there for things this expensive, but have also gone up this year.
Plus the item is shipped with duties and taxes included, so there is a cost for that, and probably a cost for serving in dollars. It looks like the page for details on this LEJ policy is here
Thanks for this piece. I’ve followed LEJ for some time now. I’ve got an Officer’s Shirts in indigo dungaree, a workshirt in a thick HBT, and a summery CUTTS that is so light it feels like wearing air. I love how these shirts function equally well tucked-in and blowing in the breeze. I also have a pair of trousers – white, same HBT as the shirt, though they somehow feel as if they have more flow and movement to them – and one of the older belted Overall jackets, which is robustly designed and now well-used. It is especially useful for traveling in, with all its pockets.
One thing I would like to add is about Luke’s approach to writing and the way he and the label describe their clothing. The playfulness, the levity, combined with a practical sense of how the fabric feels and acts, is such a tonic compared to so many menswear labels. I get the appeal of heritage narratives, or the tone of courteous reserve found with luxe and bespoke, but I can only read so many descriptions of how a reinforced pocket stitch is based on an original 1953 American zookeeper’s apron before my eyes start to glaze over. (The language of selling clothing is something I’d love to see a PS piece about.)
The personal touch, as someone else here has commented – the handwritten notes, Luke’s helpful answers to questions – is much appreciated. Especially for someone like me, who does not have a big budget and for whom buying anything from LEJ is a treat and something I take a lot of time and care thinking about. (I’ve missed out on one or two of the more popular items because of my deliberations!) Everything I’ve bought from them has brought me a great deal of pleasure and wear.
Really useful feedback, thank you Dan, and yes it’s an interesting subject. That kind of heritage and product-led detail is something I know some readers have said they would like to see more of on the website, but others like yourself clearly like the playful tone more. It’s a hard one to get right for every type of customer I think. Even something like authenticity, or personality, isn’t what some customers of luxury brands really want – they almost want to be kept at arm’s length
Thanks for putting me onto this brand, it’s right down my street. Outerwear that is serious yet playful, the details on the down styles are quite astonishing and I would argue the RRP favors the consumer; something that you don’t find often these days. And the leather jacket, my god its perfect, albeit a little out of budget, I have been looking for a little while now for something modern, that doesn’t make me look like I’m heading to a war reenactment, this one fits the bill, yet, i can’t front said bill. 2026 piggybank will have to start a couple weeks early.
first comment on here… I didn’t listen in school… forgive the punctuation… I tried…
Haha! No worries, still very much appreciated
I really love the down jacket’s design, and the fact that it’s suitable for cycling fits my daily life perfectly.
I am also riding my bike all seasons.
I’m just wondering whether it has been treated to be at least water-resistant. In my experience, down isn’t the best insulating material in climates where precipitation often comes as rain. That would mean I’d always have to carry a shell with me. Totally understand the charm of classic down though. Just think for most European countries it needs could be more practical.
I can’t decide on the LEJ down jacket or the Nigel Claiborne Everest. Would you say both occupy the same purpose in a wardrobe, or can serve different purposes? Would you agree the LEJ jacket is more versatile?
I think they are probably a little different. The Cabourn is bigger, longer, more of a deep-winter parka. I haven’t tried the LEJ one for any length of time, but going off my Skyliner, that’s less for deep winter, more between seasons too, and in that was more versatile yes. The LEJ is going to have a touch more unusual style as well, while the Cabourn is more of a straight, traditional reproduction
This article prompted me to finally write a thank you for introducing me to L.E.J and others like Rubato, Anglo Italian Tailors, Dick’s Edinburgh, Stewart Christie, and Mr Jamrozinski.
I was traveling to Dublin for work, then continued on to Edinburgh before heading to Warsaw, Poland, and finishing the trip in London. Over those two weeks, I made a point to visit and experience places I had first discovered through Permanent Style.
In Edinburgh, I started at Stewart Christie, where I picked up a few jumpers and Fair Isle pieces. I then visited Dick’s, which had an excellent curation and a fantastic team. They were deeply engaged, pulling items, discussing fabrics, and indulging my fairly deep analysis and scrutiny as I worked through what would genuinely add to my wardrobe.
From there I traveled on to Warsaw, where I visited Mr Jamrozinski. I had a colleague on speaker phone helping translate, but it was a great experience being measured, seeing the workspace, and spending time in such a small shop with so much history. I picked up a pair of unlined leather gloves and left with a real appreciation for the craft.
I finished the trip in London, where I reached out to Luke to ask where I could try L.E.J in person, and he very kindly invited me to the Hackney studio. It was a wonderful experience. I tried on the full range of shirts and plage coats and bought my first pieces. Working in tech and spending most of my time in corporate environments, it was refreshing to see their workspace and feel the level of intention behind the fabrics and design. Hackney itself was also a welcome change from my usual Westminster, Mayfair, and Borough Market routine.
While at the L.E.J studio, a couple of other gentlemen stopped by and we got chatting. They had just been at the Permanent Style space for a Rubato trunk show and encouraged me to go, which I did the next day. I finally tried on knitwear I would never have bought without seeing in person and am happy to say I will be purchasing one.
I also revisited Anglo Italian Tailors, which you introduced me to two years ago when I first started taking my wardrobe seriously and which helped set a strong foundation I still rely on.
At every stop I shared how I had discovered them, and there was a real sense of community across all these makers. Ending the trip in London and finally visiting and meeting places and people I had read about on Permanent Style made it an amazing experience, and I am very much looking forward to continuing to see and feel the clothes and craftsmanship you write about.
Incredible. Thank you for writing Om, it’s really such a pleasure to hear that
From a practical point of view, is there a difference in the warmth of a jacket that has the shearling on the outside, like this? Always felt one of the best parts of shearling is having the texture closer to the body.
Good point. I’m not sure – I would think it would make some difference, yes, but still be very functional. In the end, unlike say the deep winter parka discussed above, this is a great warm coat I’m sure but those kinds of decisions are not being driven entirely by function
I have been a fan of Luke and LEJ from the initial mention from Manish in one of his travel writings. I started with a summer Plage (black linen) which is a real staple for me now. Expanded to add two winter Plage (including an exploded houndstooth from a few years ago that is just stellar) and several shirts. Officers’s, CUTTS and a tomato red summer linen 3/4 sleeve camp collar. Every time I put one of these on I am reminded of everything I initially liked about them. I haven’t been actively shopping as much recently, so this article was a great way to catch up on his newer things that I have missed. To all, if you’re on the fence about trying something from LEJ, there is a very good chance that you’ll find your own way to wear just about anything he sells.
I wouldn’t buy any of these. However I have his plage coat which is superb especially the details on the back.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on these new products from LEJ.
Sorry for being off-topic, but would you happen to know when’s the shipping cut-off date for PS Shop products for international customers? I’ll be looking to grab some OCBDs while I still can, hopefully…
Hello Michael, Sorry we were due to make an announcement on shipping cut off for the shop and it escaped us as the Christmas madness kicked in. The dates are as follows:
United Kingdom: 22 December
Europe (EU and Non-EU): 18 December
USA, Canada and Mexico: 17 December
Rest of world: 17 December
Unfortunately some of these have already passed, I will say this doesn’t mean an item definitely won’t turn before Christmas but we cannot say confidently that it will.
Best Lucas
Hello Lucas,
Thank you for the reply. May I ask when shipping is to be resumed after Christmas for the rest of the world?
Best Michael
Hi Michael
The warehouse is open today and trying to get everything shipped out, obviously there will be a slight backlog, if it doesn’t go out today/tomorrow normal shipping will resume on the 2nd.
Great article on an amazing brand that keeps evolving in interesting ways! I am mainly commenting to add another enthusiastic endorsment of their products and especially their online customer service (which is quite important, since they lack a physical store). I have a washed black linen plage coat as well as a bitter brown HBT cotton plage coat (so exactly the two “cold” colours you mention in the article) and I agree with you that they are amazing products (though I think you might end up wanting both). They fit my tailoring aesthetic (quite ”drapey” and a bit longer than most chore coats) and slot perfectly into the role of “relaxed summer jacket to wear with a T-shirt and jeans” within the “cold-colour” wardrobe. But their elegant silhouette and rather refined appearance means that they can also easily be paired with a shirt and most tailored trousers, especially given the variety of different materials (and thus textures!) on offer. LEJ garments also look even better in person because the materials and washes are absolutely beautiful. I highly recommend anyone who’s interested to just get in touch with the lovely LEJ people to discuss sizing etc.! Both Luke and Alfie are very kind and helpful in offering things like sizing advice (Luke once even asked Manish to offer his advice on the Lazyman vs. plage coat sizing for me) or explaining the different washes of their garments (the colours of the HBTs have the chameleon-like quality of looking quite different in different lighting conditions). To me, this “personal touch” makes a brand like LEJ truly special and adds depth to the experience of wearing their garments in a way that is not unlike knowing about the particular house style and processes of a bespoke tailor.
Wonderful endorsement and experience Liam, thank you
Hi Simon, did you get a chance to handle their Winter Tweed Plages? They’re £695 this year. Up from £495 last year – a 40% price hike which makes it a bit of a different proposition and pushes well into Drakes territory. Sudden hike justified or not, how would you say it compares to Drakes’ offerings such as their Donkey chore?
I’d say it compares very well, and good value for money. That goes for Luke’s pieces generally and particularly compared to other brands like that
I own a Cat Posh Plage Coat in black cotton and am normally a 40/41 and sized up to a humangaloid 44 for a seriously louche look – it hangs beautifully and I have to say that I’ve thrashed the hell out of it and I love it even more now. It is perhaps the jacket that I wear most in spring / summer and it comes with a strong recommendation from me as it’s just so, so versatile and sits perfectly on the cusp of dressing up or dressing like a bum (trainers – yep; Aldens – yep; vintage 501’s – yep; vintage Polo shorts – yep; trackie bums – yep, yep!)
I have a sneaky feeling that the spirit of Luke’s clothing is to go louche and go large and would suggest size up!
I missed his most recent open studio which I think was last week as I could not get out of the office to make it but I will be there at the end of January with bells on.
PS as others have attested – Luke is a lovely, lovely guy and a thank you from me for the nudges of encouragement he gave me choosing that oversized fit.
Hi Simon,
Would you say their tweed plage coat is warm or does it need another garment atop during the British winter?
I’d say probably something else on top, it’s not an overcoat
I really quite like the red one, it would fill a gap in my wardrobe. I wish LEJ did more opportunities to try things on. Making appointments is a bit of a commitment, it has too much social obligation to it, in my experience.
Good to hear Matt. Perhaps try and make one of the open days in that case
i would love to know how many people have gone and bought one of these as a result of this article.
The power of Crompton.
simon
did you say the beige puffer is fine with white or off white jeans? I’m thinking chambray shirt underneath.
Or is it too similar?
I think it would be great with white jeans, yes
Simon, I was wondering whether you discussed with Luke at LEJ the branding on the front of the down jackets. This is a new step for them. As a loyal customer of LEJ, this is a worrying step, in my view. I would never buy, for example, a Lacoste shirt – because of the branding on the chest. For me, it smacks of insecurity in the brand.
I appreciate there are (possibly) multiple arguments for having such conspicuous branding – but it has put me off what looks like another excellent design from them.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Hey Philip,
Personally, I think the logos work well on a sportier piece like this – you can see the heritage in other sportswear, and it’s very different from, say, putting it on the leather jacket (where a brand like Ralph Lauren would just slap it on anything). But then, I wouldn’t have a problem with a logo on a Lacoste polo, because of the heritage there. Also why I prefer logos on caps. It’s part of the heritage and the design.
It’s a personal choice, but one thing you can always say with Luke is that it will be very considered and deliberate. I don’t think the point about insecurity in the brand is relevant.
Hey Simon,
Do you remember if that shade of shearling would be nice paired with black like black jeans etc?
Is that colour part of the cold colour capsule you write about?
Yes I would say so
Hi Simon – you say that in your visit you try everything and loved the tailoring. Did you, by any chance, try the new “suit” like jacket/trouser combo that LEJ has just launched? I’m curious about it but a bit worried that it may be too fun/fashion to be a functional casual suit alternative in a normal corporate environment.
You mean the Veste de Ville? Yes they’ve had that for a little bit, and the jacket is really nice (didn’t try the trousers). I do think it might be a little too unusual in a corporate environment though
Yes, I meant that one. I had never noticed it, just saw it with the matching trousers in a recent lookbook. Thanks for the prompt response, appreciated.
No worries at all Diego
Having seen Lucas wear the black Plage coat recently I took the plunge. It is the only thing I’ve worn recently that has had people stop me and ask me where it’s from. I love it and wear it so much, I’m fighting the urge to get a green one as modelled by Manish in the 2023 article. Sadly for me I misattributed Luke’s initial note to me to a ‘Lulu’… Next up will be some shirts, I’m curious to read that the CUTTS comes up large. I’m a bigger person, so coming up large is a nightmare scenario. I’m also an impatient person, so ordering and returning due to sizing is a different nightmare scenario.
Would any of the PS team comment on the sizing of the CUTTS or any of the other LEJ shirting options? I have a 44 in the Plage (fits a tad large, which is what I wanted) and a 44 in the Veste de Ville which is about right for me.
I’d say the CUTTS does come up large, but that is kind of the look. I find it too blousy for me, but you might like it
Given that summer is approaching, I wanted to comment about how I wear my LEJ quick release (I have the washed black cotton HBT version).
In short, as André also highlighted in the original article, it can be worn like a shirt that can also be used as an overshirt/lightweight plage coat. I also think it is worth highlighting to other readers that it actually looks quite “normal” when styled as an untucked shirt (André had mentioned that he often simply wears his untucked, but the way he styled it in the original article was more unusual).
I own two other plages (the washed black linen and the brown HBT cotton). My quick release works in exactly the same way on hot spring/summer days (mostly just worn over a t-shirt or an even more lightweight shirt). But it has the added advantage that it can also be used as a standalone shirt that adds a lot of interest to an otherwise simple shorts/trousers + shirt outfit.
The HBT fabric is really nice (it is also worth noting that the plages all wear quite differently depending on the fabrics). It is thick enough to work over a lightweight linen shirt, but it is still light enough for the real heat. The HBT texture also means that it works really well with both linen trousers and most cotton trousers (my summer staples).
My style probably leans slightly “younger” and a bit more playful than Simon’s, so I understand his hesitation about the quick release (I am also a bit younger and live in an urban environment that leans quite casual).
But I think many PS readers would be surprised how much wear they get out of the quick release if they give it a try… It may seem quite expensive for a “lightweight” summer item. But given how much time of the year I increasingly spend in lightweight summer items (global warming…), I’ve personally come to the realisation that they are worth it…
So TL;DR: The quick release is a lightweight plage coat that can also be worn as a standalone shirt that is great for adding interest to simple summer outfits. I get so many compliments on it from other people even though I wear it in a fairly conservative way…
PS: Today’s release email from LEJ reminded me that my quick release is of course in the cotton poplin cloqué fabric (not the HBT, which is the heavier cotton that they use for the Plage). Everything else that I said still stands though. The new Chiringuito Shirt in the same fabric also looks nice.
Help an old man out – I feel convinced that a while ago there was an article on PS that included an image of Luke Walker in a vintage Parisian waiter’s jacket. In ecru/off white. But I can’t now dig out the article for love nor money. Might you be kind enough to direct me to it? Many thanks
Hi Peter
You want this one: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024/11/how-to-do-double-denim-and-mixing-rough-and-smooth.html
Hi Simon, have you (or the rest of the team) ever tried out the nylon shell blouson (currently sold out) or the 2 pocket waister? I like the look, but I’m tall and worried they might be too cropped on me. Curious to hear any experiences
I haven’t Markus, but I’ll see if Manish has any advice to share