Loden: The cloth, the coat, the history
By Bernhard Roetzel. I was pretty convinced that Permanent Style readers wouldn’t need an explanation of the term ‘Loden’. Still, I wondered whether a very English retailer like Cordings felt the need to define the word, so I searc...
Loden: The cloth, the coat, the history
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Thanks, mr Roetzel, for this very informative essay. Loden coats, almost invariably in the Hubertus (patron saint of hunting) cut, are a true staple of classic menswear here in northen Italy, even among the not-so-much i...
The versatility of the camel coat
The pre-order for the PS Donegal coats, including this one, will open on Monday. Details in an article then. Instinctively, you wouldn't think a camel-coloured coat (whether actual camelhair or not) would be that versatile. It's not the business s...
The versatility of the camel coat
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My dream bespoke commission was always a DB camel polo coat since the 90s when it was last trending in the pages of GQ. I finally had one made 3 years ago in the perfect baby camelhair from Columbo. I live in a tropical ...
De Bonne Facture: More like themselves
I’ve known the brand De Bonne Facture for a long time, seeing them at stockists like Trunk and No Man Walks Alone over the years, and chatting to the founder Déborah Neuberg over dinner or at Pitti. I’ve also admired their philos...
De Bonne Facture: More like themselves
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Great review. And if i'm allowed to say, something i'd love to see more of. I'm 26 and was on boarded in my late teens / early twenties through the writing on more traditional clothes which was / still is new and excitin...
Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
Last year we did a series of articles analysing four of my overcoats from different traditions: Sartoria Ciardi , Cifonelli , Liverano and Edward Sexton . They were discussed, measured and picked apart in the ‘Style Breakdown’ ...
Michael Browne ‘Body coat’: Style breakdown
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Thanks Ryan...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
What is a ‘caban’ coat? Well, it's meant different things at different points in time, but it has a particular meaning as a sartorial version of a pea coat in Naples. The caban was originally something European sailors called a coat the...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
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Not with the same style points, no...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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Yes, it is the char brown. I'd say not as versatile as either of those, but still very useful...
Simon’s sizing advice (winter)
Every six months, I forget what it’s like to run the pop-up shops. They’re only four days each (London and New York) but they’re so intense, just talking to people non-stop for eight hours, giving advice and fetching sizes. I don&r...
Simon’s sizing advice (winter)
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Will do Alexander...
Introducing: The Court Jacket
*Care update: The Court Jacket can be wiped down on the outside to deal with any dirt, dust etc. It can also be hand-washed to deal with any perspiration over time. Hand wash in warm water and hang to dry. For the new collaboration this Autumn, I w...
Introducing: The Court Jacket
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Many thanks, Simon and Markus!...
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew making something that could be s...
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
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Thank you. Like I said, I have more pictures, like this one. I could take another, if you have a suggestion how it might be more visible?...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
At the beginning of the year, I asked readers if they had a Wax Walker we could feature as part of our ‘Dry January’ project. We were focusing on how things age and become more beautiful with wear, and wax jackets are particularly nice i...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age
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Yes, you can certainly wipe it down with water and soap if it gets dirty. It's great for that. I'd say a 4 probably rather than a 3, but I would also suggest looking at the measurements and comparing them to something yo...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will be in our old space at 20 Sav...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plu...
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Hey Dan - no photos this time I'm afraid, as we didn't do drinks and so on. Next time though definitely!...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back, in new beige and re...
The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the best macs. Happy to help on ...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back, in new beige and re...
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Thanks David. Not sure about that one myself, but still like the overall suggestion...
Beige, Paris: The best kind of multi-brand shop
A lot of music fans don’t see the point of covers albums. They want the originals, not a bunch of copies. But I’ve always liked them, whether it’s Johnny Cash’s American IV or Rage Against The Machine’s Renegades , beca...
Beige, Paris: The best kind of multi-brand shop
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We can certainly look to at some point, PF. It's hard to cover everyone and we would always focus on the ones we liked the style of particularly, but a round-up article or similar on great independent shops in Europe mig...
Reader profile: Niyi
By André Larnyoh I’ve known Niyi for three or four years and he’s always someone I’ve learnt from. His style is eclectic: classic menswear brands alongside contemporary fashion, bursts of colour with subdued tones. Yet someh...
Reader profile: Niyi
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A great example of someone not trying to be anything other than himself...and maybe that's the point of everything....
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
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Hi Manish, I realize that I’m late to the party with this comment, but thank you for this wonderful article! I will follow A. Marchesan’s Instagram page and eagerly await their website launch. I’ve had great luck f...
Yuketen, Crescent Down Works, Big Rock Candy Moun...
Last week I wrote about visiting the Paris trade shows for the first time, and being able to interview some new brands as a result. Today I’m going to highlight three that we found particularly interesting. The first is Yuketen, the craft-bas...
Yuketen, Crescent Down Works, Big Rock Candy Moun...
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The August Specials, definitely...
Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series , which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...
Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown
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I think it's fine, Jawahar, they are made by the tailor to work together after all. There's a chance you might find the two together a lot of padding going on, but that's more a personal call...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
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Thank you! Very helpful...
The Eddie Bauer ‘Skyliner’ and how to find one
With the growth of interest in outdoor clothing in recent years, there has been a predictable dive into the history of companies that produced it, of which one of the most prominent was Eddie Bauer. One reason I find this exploration interesting is...
The Eddie Bauer ‘Skyliner’ and how to find one
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I would, yes. I prefer some aspects of my Cabourn parka (see article) like the collar, but I also like the fact the Karakoram is slimmer. I wouldn't wear either with tailoring though...
Cifonelli cashmere overcoat: Style Breakdown
This cashmere coat from Cifonelli, which I’ve had now for nine years , is similar in many ways to the two coats we’ve covered previously in this series – from Ciardi and from Liverano . There are some technical di...
Cifonelli cashmere overcoat: Style Breakdown
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The dark brown from Tengri, yes. I still have both, but I wear the brown more...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost). It remains one of my abs...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Perhaps you should not be surprised anymore by comments on internet/social media, but why so negative, I can't understand. Can you please post your own great posture and your great style so we can all judge you Ben? :)...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Yes, that's what I meant. Thanks!...
The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction
Next week we’ll begin a series of articles that breaks down the style of my bespoke coats, building on the popular 2018 series that looked at suits and jackets. That turned into a book, Bespoke Style , which was a great illustration...
The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction
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Great, thank you Ian...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century America...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
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The only other differences are probably than Seiji's is cut looser and straighter, a little more like a pea coat, and that Ethan's has prominent swelled seams at the edges, done deliberately by machine. I like the cashme...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
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Simon: Thanks for the recommendation. Went to San Francisco Market today and bought couple pants (PT Torino) and shirts. I have been coming to Seoul for many years and never know that neighborhood existed! Some cool stor...
