Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad.  They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in ...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especia...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

June 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to rece...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 8th 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

April 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop.  I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhap...

Coats - SuitsApril 27th 2020

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

February 26th 2020

I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York , where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph, and reading In His Own Fa...

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York , where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph,...

CoatsFebruary 26th 2020

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

February 21st 2020

Best investment product: Private White VC Runners up: Alden, Edward Green   What makes one machine-made product better than another? At Permanent Style, the fact we cover mostly smart clothing, and mostly high-end, means handwork is often a...

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

Best investment product: Private White VC Runners up: Alden, Edward Green   What makes one machine-made product better than another? At Permanent Style, the fact we cover mostly smart clothing, and mostly high-end,...

CoatsFebruary 21st 2020

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

January 27th 2020

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat.  As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility.  I began the experiment of ...

CoatsJanuary 27th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounce...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

January 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing. Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just h...

CoatsJanuary 8th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them.  Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

December 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur spec...

CoatsDecember 27th 2019

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

November 11th 2019

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the...

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS.  He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he final...

CoatsNovember 11th 2019

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

October 14th 2019

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on ...

CoatsOctober 14th 2019

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

October 2nd 2019

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any other last winter. Despite the...

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any o...

CoatsOctober 2nd 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people ...

Bags - Casual clothingJune 19th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...

Strong colour in accessories

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours j...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesFebruary 1st 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the world. Based in Paris, it makes c...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the wor...

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

January 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on th...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside laye...

CoatsJanuary 16th 2019

The guide to overcoating cloths

December 17th 2018

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As...

The guide to overcoating cloths

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are n...

Cloth - CoatsDecember 17th 2018

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

October 31st 2018

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites onli...

Casual clothing - CoatsOctober 29th 2018

The duffle coat

March 9th 2018

It was freezing in London last week. Temperatures below zero consistently; more snow than we’ve had in a decade. Of course, it’s nothing compared to the US east coast - or Scandinavia - but it was rather a shock. I had an odd feeling on ...

The duffle coat

It was freezing in London last week. Temperatures below zero consistently; more snow than we’ve had in a decade. Of course, it’s nothing compared to the US east coast - or Scandinavia - but it was rather a shock. I ...

CoatsMarch 9th 2018

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespok...

February 21st 2018

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat , how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespok...

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat , how it has held up and - more specificall...

CoatsFebruary 21st 2018

Suit-carrier holdalls and Trench coats back in stock

January 30th 2018

Two of the best collaborations we did last year are back in stock this week. The Suit-Carrier Holdall (below), which combines a suit carrier and a holdall into a single lightweight bag, is available again on the Bennett Winch website. The Holdall w...

Suit-carrier holdalls and Trench coats back in stock

Two of the best collaborations we did last year are back in stock this week.  The Suit-Carrier Holdall (below), which combines a suit carrier and a holdall into a single lightweight bag, is available again on the Ben...

Bags - CoatsJanuary 30th 2018