The versatility of the camel coat
The pre-order for the PS Donegal coats, including this one, will open on Monday. Details in an article then.
Instinctively, you wouldn't think a camel-coloured coat (whether actual camelhair or not) would be that versatile.
It's not the business standard navy or grey, or the more rural brown or green. It's not even the black beloved of fashion, or the beige of a trench or covert coat.
Camel is a stronger colour than all of those, and it should be harder to wear. It's certainly less common than all of them.
But wearing the coat above - a camelhair version of our PS Donegal - and my Anthology polo coat below has made me realise quite how many things camel goes with.
Three years ago when we first talked about that Anthology polo coat, I showed it with both grey flannel (above) and blue jeans (below).
The grey flannel looked good against camel, but then mid-grey works with almost everything. The pink shirt and cream cardigan were more interesting, as they seemed to suit it very well, as did an alternative combination with a green cashmere scarf.
The blue jeans I knew were a good partner as someone like Ralph Lauren shows them so much with camel, and that ability to do both smart and casual was a big part of the polo coat's appeal.
But pops of colour were more effective than I'd anticipated, like the red watch cap.
A chance sighting of a woman in Mayfair wearing black jeans with her camel coat recently gave me the idea to try blacks and charcoal with our Donegal sample, and that proved surprisingly effective.
In the image below I'm wearing the new coat with black jeans (nineties 501s), a charcoal cashmere crewneck (Dalmo) and a grey watch cap. Black is great with the camel - these jeans are a little washed out, but I've also tried it with my black cords.
Charcoal is always going to be easier but black makes a very nice, perhaps more modern combination.
The second new outfit I did for that shoot, below, was intended to push the casual possibilities, with a sweatshirt instead of the cashmere crewneck worn with the Anthology coat.
But it was the Alden boots that I enjoyed most in the combination, as they showed how complementary snuff-suede was.
Trainers work in that kind of combination too, but I like boots with this kind of outfit myself, so everything isn't quite so casual. It suggests a little more thought going on, somehow.
I was starting to wonder what wouldn't work with camel. Perhaps navy, but actually Ralph Lauren also styles camel with its chalk stripe suits all the time (first image below).
Olive is a nice option too (second image below), as well as lots of bright colours like yellow and that red watch cap. I don't think purple or orange would be so good, but that's about it.
Then I remembered the guys from the The Anthology in Taipei. Some of them have the polo coat, and they’re always posting pictures of themselves in different combinations. Looking back through them (I’ve included a few below) I realised I should have seen a while ago how nice it was with black, as well as sportswear.
Of course, polo coats were originally sportswear, thrown over sweaty kit following a match or a chukka. But I didn't necessarily think it would work as well now.
I personally wouldn't wear sweats top and bottom with it, or Converse. But I can confirm that it is really nice with a hoodie in a lot of colours - this kind of cream, grey marl, black, faded navy, faded red etc.
A camel-coloured coat will always be showier than other options, and therefore not for everyone.
I remember convincing a lawyer friend to join me in buying a camel coat from an Italian discount shop on Cheapside, many years ago. Mine was this classic colour, his a touch richer. They were good coats and good value, but he always said he regretted the purchase - in a corporate law firm it stood out too much against everyone else’s navy and charcoal.
Maybe it would be easier today, given how casual things have become. Maybe it would be easier because he’s more senior and running his own team. But either way, that’s the only obvious downside of camel - that it will stand out, because it’s bright and because so few people have them.
Then again, maybe that’s changing too.
Below, a few other options culled from my inspiration board - there are so many!
Urgent need to buy a camel coat now, great pictures
I’ve been hankering for a camel chesterfield for a while, although many I found didn’t quite hit the mark. I particularly want it for casual to smart-casual wear as a chesterfield as my other coat options in that range are either much too heavy and warm when it’s around 8C or far too light.
Would love to see more posts like this with the extra photos, it’s one of the things I like about the Die Workwear articles.
Thanks Luke, sure we can add more in future posts
Seconding Luke, the photos are great
Thirding Luke, I like them too.
Interesting seeing camel applied not to the classic Polo coat but to a simpler single breasted design. I fear some elan is lost but I definitely see a greater versatility proposition.
Out of interest, between a Polo camel coat and your double breasted English tweed coat, which would you reckon the more versatile?
Good question. Perhaps the English Tweed, but there’s a good dollop of personal style in that consideration
It may depend on the rest of your wardrobe and the common colours in your city/town (we have pretty green/brown rather than grey winters here)- I have a very similar herringbone and it gets less wear than my camel coat. Thinking on it – I can’t tell why. Perhaps because the tweed is heavier, and only suitable for a couple months of winter here, while the camel hits its stride with the first oranges of autumn.
I found myself subconsciously looking for the lapels as soon as I saw the color of the coat, but I do think this style makes camelhair more accessible for me.
I’ve got a version (not as nice – slightly too short, and the finishing isn’t so good as the PS standard on the other donegal coats I’ve seen) in a similar cut from Mackintosh and it’s so versatile. Single breasted, it’s casual enough to go with almost anything.
Aaaggghhh – camel or dark navy?! Damn you.
I’ve got the brown donegal (sold the grey herringbone), olive trench and tweed coat, so either would be a good fit in terms of variety.
You don’t half make life complicated, especially with the other re-stocks coming!….
Hi Simon, are you wearing your usual size 4 in the camel? I ask because to my eyes, it looks more relaxed than when you wear the other versions…
Yes, normal size 4
My bank balance is now feeling extremely nervous.
(repeat to self: I do not need another Donegal coat, I do not need another Donegal coat, I do not need another Donegal coat…)
Hi Simon,
Certainly agree on the versatility. My wife has numerous styles of camel coats, with the ‘go to’ being a black cashmere roll neck and dark indigo jeans. A dark strip of colour under the lighter coat (but no too light that one gets too sharp a contrast) is both flattering and stylish. I personally prefer that to light or tonal which is simply a personal preference. I am a late convert! Your outfit with the grey crew neck looks good. And very nice looking coat addition to the PS range. Will you have samples in the pop up in March?
Thank you, and yes we will
Rookie question that I have no doubt you’ll be able to answer. Why is camel coloured cloth usually much more expensive than other wools? I understand the premium charged for cashmere, but Camel is a hardier and more wool like material, isn’t it?
So, if it’s just camel-coloured then it shouldn’t be any different. But if it’s actual camelhair, from an actual camel, as this is, then it is more expensive because, like cashmere, it’s just harder to get and farm, and it’s more luxurious.
Camelhair is a nice alternative to cashmere – almost as soft and rather stronger. Particularly if you use a densely woven one like this Harrison’s one we’ve used, which is the nicest I’ve ever felt
Hi Simon,
Do you have the book/bunch number for that Harrison’s camel hair? What oz is it and do you know if there’s a navy version?
Lastly, what’s the difference between this Harrison’s version vs anthology’s camel fabric?
It’s in the Overcoatings book, I don’t have the number to hand but I’ll get it. Someone else shout if they do! The weight was 640g I believe, which I was a little unsure about but this camelhair has a thick body to it that I really like and I find it as warm as the wool donegals. It doesn’t feel like that weight.
The Anthology one is from Standeven, which is still really nice but I think this is a nicer (and certainly more expensive)
How about using this fabric for a sports jacket?
It would be too thick I think
The camel coat is something I truely love, but do not know if I can really pull it of.
For Inspo I would always recommend going into the next Ralph Lauren Store during Fall/Winter and just look at the mannequins (that‘s basicly always a good idea)
Also have a look at Ghiaia. Davide has his own spin on the polo coat, very loose and relaxed. Also is the color a bit darker and more muted but still works great with a lot of stuff. His styling is always superb, highly recommend giving the website frequently visits and also see the PS-Article on him from a few years ago
Thanks Amon, yes good call and I was going to reference our article on him so glad you did so instead!
I’m a big fan of the King’s camel coats. He has a lovely old SB camel coat (the collar has been repaired at least once) in addition to the DB in the above photo. Unfortunately, the King’s new 8×3 DB overcoat (see recent attached photo) is his favourite for official engagements. It has two high buttons at the side of the collar and slanted pockets which, to me, look awful. It’s hard to understand why he would prefer it as his classic camel coats.
I have been looking for a RTW DB camel coat this winter but have not been able to get one in London. Drakes sold out in my size very quickly and Cordings did not have a polo coat in my size. I’m not keen on the football buttons on the British Warm so any suggestions would be very welcome.
If the buttons are the only problem, then you can easily switch them.
I would want to remove the top buttons rather than switch them. The slanted pockets don’t look right to me either. It’s surprising that the King would choose that style for a (presumably) bespoke overcoat. The cut looks inferior to his other coats so I’m wondering who made it.
What do you think of a camelhair sportcoat?
Harder to wear I think, not really something that can be easily worn in the sporty or much more casual ways the coat can. Perhaps partly because the material will be lighter weight and so looks a little more luxe and smarter?
Wonder if this is a UK and/or trend thing. 4 years ago it felt like you couldn’t open a subway door in NYC without seeing someone in a camel coat. I agree they’re showy in comparison to black/navy, but that tan shade goes with basically any color (I see it working with purple tbph)
I’ve always loved a camel coat, to me it is a classic and looks luxurious but I find that the tone of camel has got to be right for your skintone as some can make you look very sallow.
I love it over paler colours, cream, pale grey etc., which are great to wear in the winter if the weather is bright and sunny but still chilly and you want a lighter look to your outfit, and also find it goes really well over a rich burgundy – as you say, it does actually go with everything and is very versatile
Thanks Jude, interesting.
Yes shade makes a big difference, it’s was one thing I checked a lot with this shade against different things I owned before we went for it
In my humble opinion, camel overcoats go well with any contrasting colors like black, white, dark blue or dark gray. I don’t mind “standing out” as long as it’s for the right reason. And it’s a great alternative to the more traditional dark overcoats. One of each in your wardrobe and you’re set to take on the day no matter the outfit.
Hi Simon – beautiful coat. What’s the pricing going to be on this iteration?
Presuming the camel hair will make it more expensive than previous examples?
Yes, camelhair is a lot more expensive. This one from Harrison’s is the best I’ve seen though and feels really nice. The price will be around £2000 with VAT
I bought a vintage camel hair coat on eBay two years ago (or rather I bid on it, fell into a small bidding war and managed to win without crossing the £100 limit I set myself) and its been the best impulse purchase I have ever made. I have found it works just as easily with tailoring and casual clothes in a way that few other coats do, even more so than a classic Barbour. It still surprises me how versatile the colour is and how well it goes with cold colours, as any other garment in that colour would feel quite difficult to combine.
Since clothes often have an emotional connection for us, here’s a little anecdote. At the end of last year I was the most ill I have been since the first time I had COVID and needed to go to an out of hours doctors appointment. I threw on a sweatshirt, jeans and slip-on Vans over my pyjamas, along with the camel coat and a Tootal scarf. I still felt like s*** but the coat just made me feel that little bit more put together, like I could still be myself.
Apologies Simon – I’m probably being impatient on your Monday update, but will there be a possibility to try this on at either your new place or William Crabtree or elsewhere. I am tempted, but I would really want to see the shade in-person first.
No worries!
Yes the sample one you can see here will be in the pop-up, which will be at the end of the pre-order period
I think overcoats in general are easy to dress up or down. Frankly you can’t have too many.
Here is a photo I saved a while back which fits the theme. I don’t know who to credit it to.
Nice!
Yes easier when not in formal colours, particularly something like charcoal, or in finer, smoother materials
image search with Google Lens delivered 🙂
https://alanflusser.com/media/mtm-polo-coat
As much as I love seeing curated photos of camel coats, especially camel polo coats, I think my hesitance to bite the bullet on one is just the vast amount of men you’ll see in New York who just don’t do it right. The common pitfalls of bad fit (too big or too tight), way too short (above the knee) and the way that the rest of the outfit is worn. I’m guilty myself, having gotten one of those Uniqlo camel chesterfields in high school and wearing them with anything and everything. Maybe I just need to reevaluate my perception of a coat like this…
I actually had one as a young lawyer like your friend. There was another significant disadvantage – just keeping it clean. Mostly Tube/escalator/bus window grime, but this is something that doesn’t benefit from looking charmingly shabby like a wax jacket etc.
True. I’ve never had much of a problem, but it does depend how/where you commute.
I also find a little normal maintenance makes a big difference. Like, everyone used to brush down their jacket or suit when they took it off at home, taking off all the surface dirt and dust. People don’t do that any more, but then dry clean it which is bad for the cloth in the long term
Can you please recommend a brush? I’ve been saving up for something like this and would like it to last a few decades. Also, another advantage of camel hair is the tradition. St. John wore it 2,000 years ago. I only wish you had it in black. Camelhair is a wonderful material but the color flags the material and the cost of quality which I fear can flag unnecessary provocation in a judgmental age where people don’t understand that quality is always far less expensive in the end.
Hi Andrew I think I’ve seen it here and I use one myself, a brush for clothes from Kent their CC2 model, one version comes with a handle but I have the one without a handle but it makes no difference to use, it’s for cotton and wool suits and shirts and coats but I would be a bit careful around some knitwear. Certainly an option and without experiencing any other brushes, I would recommend, just saw its about 20 English on amazon
Another lawyer who had one as a young lawyer. I loved it but it did feel a bit showy for my age and stage. I’m now in-house and relatively quite a bit more senior. I wonder whether I could carry it better now. Might look at commissioning one in late summer for next winter.
Camel hair sport jackets have been very popular in the US for decades. A harder wearing less expensive winter alternative to cashmere. The one downside to camel colored overcoats is that they show more winter dirt and stains and need to be cleaned more frequently.
It’s interesting, there definitely is that potential but I’ve never noticed an issue with it on my polo coat here. I’ve had it for years without noticing any dirt. And it’s pretty rainy here too!
Although I know it might feel absurd to state this here, my main concern with camel overcoats (and to a lesser extent, jackets) is they IMHO instantly convey some sort of “I am somehow involved in menswear” message. I cannot help but feel this way – even after all these years. Just like cream or white pants in winter do.
I believe it is even more obvious once the original popular purpose as a literal sport coat has kind of been lost.
In the end I love the sport look with the grey hoodie and jersey cream pants the most ; it feels smoother, easier, comfortable. Then again I have this doubt : is it not too much for a sport outfit ? Would a track jacket or a slightly longer Court Jacket in Camel not be more contemporary ?
In all fairness I must confess my personnal interest in understated clothing, and a camel coat is anything but that. I respect the flare and those who will dare to pull it off though. Your “donegal” version is definitely interesting in its collar simplification – although I would fear the quite expensive cloth would sustain damage way faster than sturdy tweed.
Thanks for this article.
Have a nice week-end
I agree Simon, I would not expect this to look that good, with so many pieces. How do you think this color would be over time? With stains and snags etc, would it age gracefully, or take a little more maintenance to look good?
There are some comments and answers above on that Zak. Personlly I’ve found my Anthology one has been very good from that point of view, and it helps if you look after things a little better
Thank you! In general I’m not too hard on my stuff, so I dont think I would have similar problems as the folks above. But you have opened my eyes to this color for sure.
Nice to hear Zak
A camel polo coat is easy to wear as it is a neutral color. I have one and the only thing I dislike about it is that it does not have a breast pocket. However, I have seen several without so might have a historical basis.
I had your polo coat with The Anthology made up very soon after you first posted about it. I have almost always owned a camel coat of varying degrees of quality and The Anthology polo ticked all of the boxes for a replacement and upgrade. After three years, that coat remains an absolute favorite and I firmly agree that it looks good with just about anything. It has proven to be that elusive combination of luxury and workhorse. I also own two versions of your donegal and wear them regularly (especially the discontinued lighter weight version from earlier – it is the perfect weight for a good bit of the season where I live). I encourage anyone on the fence to consider this camel donegal when it is made available. A well made, thoughtfully styled camel overcoat is a great thing to own.
Thanks so lovely to hear Chris, thank you
Dear Simon, will or is there an article about camel as a cloth?
There hasn’t been one, no, but we can plan one
I would be interested in a full length piece. It’s been mentioned only briefly in some of the introductions to cloth series of articles, and then of course in the comments.
Noted, cheers Hugh
I always liked camelhair blazers and especially camelhair polo coats. I own both. I am blonde, so it is great with my complexion. I am not in the business world. I am a photographer living in the Midwest, USA. We certainly have winters here. The various Harvard/Yale football games were historic with raccoon coats and polo coats. Ralph Lauren has certainly showed us polo coats.
I went through a similar journey to the one you described with my first camel coat (from Mackintosh) a couple years ago. Almost exactly the same sequence of realizations 🙂
Love the details on your version!
Question: how hardy is it? I often have to wear a backpack but feel the need to baby my Mackintosh coat as it’s got a bunch of cashmere in it.
It’s pretty hardy, but I wouldn’t wear a backpack with any of the coats we do – even something tougher like the English Tweed
Do you ever sling a bag over your shoulder when wearing these coats? I do this a lot, and always wonder if it is wearing the material faster than I should, yet still cant quite help myself
I do, though not often – if you were commuting every day like that I would worry, but if less regularly I wouldn’t worry.
Camel feels confident and positive.
And your pictures prove it can bring welcome contrast to the menswear staple colours. The pop of red would suit a walk in the park or in nature. An exclamation point.
Nice topic. I’ve got a camel coloured wool topcoat that has an almost Solaro (but matte) herringbone pattern. It’s 60s vintage and English (from Selfridges), and looks as sharp today as ever (I mentioned it as my favourite repair for the reader poll). I get more compliments in it than any other coat I have, and yes, I’ve worn it with pretty much everything from suits to jeans. Showy but versatile; sometimes it feels good to stand out a bit.
Hi Simon,
Will the new camel hair version be offered in size 8? I have the gray herringbone donegal in size 8 and it is a perfect fit for me. Thanks!
Yes it will Ben (in the pre-order, which opens tomorrow)
Beautiful coat. Well done.
I used to own a SB camel coat. It was the most versatile coat I ever owned. I was indeed able to wear it with a navy or charcoal suit (and tie) as well as with a pair of jeans and sweater.
Would definitely recommend that iteration.
Do you think this version would work better with a suit & tie than the grey herringbone?
Best
Romain
I’d say they’d be pretty much the same with a suit and tie
All photos are feast for the eyes
Hi Simon, very interesting article and i also think its great to have more pictures (sure its a lot more time consuming).
Nevertheless a question poped up: “It’s not even the black beloved of fashion, or the beige of a trench or covert coat.” Regarding the beige trench and covert. Did you mean they would work as a drop in replacement? So the same versitile level? I ask because I thinking about a beige parka, I know a lot more casual.
No I don’t mean that Max, I just mean those are more common colours of coat, like the ones just listed before
Hi Simon what’s the size of your Reverso? I’ve been looking for the right size but can’t quite decide which one to get
24mm. Always try it on the wrist first though if you can. It’s absolute proportions not absolutes, and I have pretty slim wrists
Hello Simon,
I’ve always been under the impression that camel coat were very popular in recent year, and I’m not talking about on social media but on the street where I live (Grenoble, in the french Alps). Although the vast majority of coat are navy (and cut way too short to my tastes) camel is second, far far before any shades of grey.
Can I add that I think the contrast between the warm camel and the cold charcoal is particularly aesthetic? Although warmer combinations with merlot/burgundy also work very well, particularly in winter. I am very happy that camel coats are discussed on PS and am looking forward to seeing them worn by many more men now. It is a very attractive look
Thanks Susanne, and nice note
Hi Simon, very well done for choosing the Harrison’s camel hair. I have an Ulster made of the same and it is a wonderful fabric, without a doubt the nicest camel hair I’ve come across on the market today. I think there are very few makers out there who would invest in such a fine (and expensive) cloth for a RTW product.
Nice to hear Andrew, thank you
“The King.” “The other king.”
The best comments of the entire article.
Well done, Simon, on all fronts!
Cheers Brett
How does the Harrison’s camel hair compared to the Standeven‘s?
I prefer it, it has more body and is softer. But it’s also rather more expensive
Simon beautiful coat in future sir can you please provide this camel hair with your bridge coat or any other color option plz. Both option would be instant buy.
We can look at it AJ, yes, though I prefer it in this coat myself
Simon, apologies if you already gave the information but will the camel iteration of the PS donegal coat only be available on pre-order? Or is it possible to buy it later?
Only pre-order Charles. Those details are set out in the pre-order post here
My dream bespoke commission was always a DB camel polo coat since the 90s when it was last trending in the pages of GQ. I finally had one made 3 years ago in the perfect baby camelhair from Columbo. I live in a tropical climate so I’ve only gotten to wear it once but I can’t wait for the next time. Here it is in Kyoto in autumn worn very casually. I also have a RTW camel bomber that is also extremely versatile.