Maximilian Mogg made-to-measure black tie: Review

June 1st 2026

I recently had this tuxedo made by the German tailoring brand Maximilian Mogg, while Max was visiting London for the appointments he runs at Richard Gelding on North Audley Street. I was interested in having something from Max both because I know r...

Maximilian Mogg made-to-measure black tie: Review

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I think unlikely re waiters, though it's hard to predict because that uniform is worn some places, and if no one else is wearing a white jacket it could be an issue On the wedding, really hard to tell as it depends what ...

Black tieJune 1st 2026

Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review

January 29th 2025

I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year - in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure. The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all it...

Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review

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I'd understand your concerns HM, but I think Mattia would be good. Hard to tell for sure as I've never been fitted by him etc, and it would be ideal to know from a friend or similar about how the experience went, but I c...

Black tie - SuitsJanuary 29th 2025

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

December 6th 2023

In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...

The Guide to Tweed: Bunches

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No, not really GA...

ClothDecember 6th 2023

A guide to linen bunches

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches

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Good morning, summer is almost here!! To my taste, Ariston Napoli makes the beautiest delave linen. Both, color and texture. And only 9 to 10 oz, very practical for warmer climates. They also drape fine....

ClothJune 15th 2018

Dugdale Towers

April 29th 2013

The Dugdale Brothers building in the centre of Huddersfield (scale model, above) is exactly what you’d hope the headquarters of an old cloth merchant would be like. Four and a half floors of old furniture, worn wooden floorboards and the occasi...

Dugdale Towers

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I want to go there! LM...

ClothApril 29th 2013

WT Johnsons – finishers, Huddersfield

April 24th 2013

When suiting cloth comes off the looms and is washed, it feels surprisingly rough, like thin cotton khakis. It is the finishing of the cloth that gives it the touch and the handle we expect. It reveals the potential of the cloth, first, and can the...

WT Johnsons – finishers, Huddersfield

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On green tweed, I had a suit made at A Suit That Fits ages ago, but I wouldn't really recommend that. There was also a pale green jacket from Cifonelli and a green jacket my wife was having made at Kathryn Sargent. I'll ...

ClothApril 24th 2013

The Dugdale Brothers archives

April 19th 2013

One of the most interesting things about visiting Dugdale Brothers last week was their archives of order books, advertising and old products. The company goes back to 1896 and they still have the nicest premises of any merchant, going back to the 192...

The Dugdale Brothers archives

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I second the cuff adjuster! Perhaps this could be your next little entrepreneurial endeavor?...

April 19th 2013

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

April 17th 2013

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,000-35,000 metres a week (most f...

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

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excellent well presented thank you...

ClothApril 17th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, and even Sa...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

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I don't know I'm afraid John...

ClothApril 15th 2013