I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year - in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure.
The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all its performance virtues (sharp, strong, breathable) discussed in the recent mohair article. In particular, I was interested in its potential for evening wear - not black tie, but something with a similar touch of glamour.
In many ways a black suit should be able to do this on its own of course, given its clearly not the navy or grey of business attire. But black suits have been a little tarnished by cheap versions worn by bouncers and the like. The sharpness and sheen of mohair elevates it above that I think.
Still, when I wore the suit to host our pop-up party in New York last year (the images show us wandering the West Village a couple of hours before) I deliberately dressed it down, using accessories like a sliver buckle, sunglasses, and an old work shirt to give it a more relaxed feel. A slightly Western feel too.
This type of combination was something Jake and I had talked about when we initially discussed the suit.
We wanted to make it clear that this wasn’t a dinner suit - not a poor version of one, not an attempt to pretend a black suit was a tux - and an easy way to do that was to make things like the belt prominent, given how much a belt is anathema to the silky style of black tie.
I think that works here. This look feels more rock ‘n’ roll, a little sexy even. (Uncomfortable though it always makes me saying that, given the straight-laced middle-aged father-of-three Englishman that I am).
A more conservative combination would be something like a charcoal roll neck and sharp oxfords - though I’d personally prefer a collared knit like our Dartmoor instead of the roll neck, perhaps buttoned to the throat. In that case the belt would be more discreet and partially hidden by the knit; a pocket square or lapel pin could add interest.
The mohair is from Standeven, a 55/45 split wool/mohair and so firmly in the traditional English category from our mohair guide. The mohair here is not just for a little performance boost - it’s there to get the look.
As I said in the guide, that’s what I prefer if I am going to have mohair, as it’s a deliberate aesthetic choice. In this suit I do like the effect - a definite sharpness and crispness to the cloth and that slightly evening feel.
I haven’t had the suit long enough to know how many outfits I’ll like it with, or how often I’ll wear it. So it’s hard to say how much I’d recommend it to readers. I have tried it with smart knits and denim shirts, as well as some silk shirts, but not multiple times and not always out in the wild.
In fact this is something we should do more - writing about tailoring commissions a year or two later, rather than a week. I did do this a few years ago and there are some earlier ones called ‘Reflections on bespoke’ but this should be a regular thing, not an occasional one.
As to Jake’s bespoke service, and style, I found it interesting. J Mueser use the service to offer existing customers something more traditional - more structured, more fine handwork - and you definitely notice that.
The jacket has a 3D shape, something you feel as soon as you put it on. It’s not heavy or stiff, but there is a sense of a sculpted shell, very different to most modern (usually Italian) tailoring. I can see how an existing Mueser client would feel they were getting something different.
The fit was good, though there are a couple of minor things I might still tweak after two fittings. The handwork is really nice - again it has that bespoke fineness and handmade feel, which is a rarity among brands in New York.
I was a little unsure during the fittings about the shape of the notch in the lapel, which slopes slightly downward. But having worn it a few times, I actually really like it. Again, Jake said he wanted something that felt different to his made to measure, and it certainly does this. The notch is lower, the lapels a little wider and they have more belly.
One thing I think really made a difference was making the suit with Jake in attendance, giving his advice. It’s so rare, as we always say, to have a bespoke tailor with strong style, and several times Jake’s taste made a difference. The belt loops was one, but there were a few others, such as having very dark brown horn buttons rather than black. It’s one more thing that makes it clear this isn’t a dinner suit.
Like many in New York, Jake uses a freelance tailor to do the cutting and making - there are several of these in the city, leftovers from the days when bespoke was a proper domestic business. (Manish did a great series of articles on that, beginning here.)
I don’t think the fact he's not an in-house tailor matters, particularly with a brand that uses separate factories for its other tailoring anyway. And as I said, it was clear what extra Jake was adding to the process.
A bespoke two-piece suit starts at $4950, which my suit fell within. The bespoke service normally takes 8-10 weeks and involves two or three fittings. It is usually only available in New York. This is known as their 'Mayfair' line
The cloth is a three-ply plain-weave wool/mohair mix from Standeven. Code 6029, 55/45 split, in the Cape Town bunch.
The other clothes shown are:
- Vintage white workshirt
- Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren loafers
- Belt by Ludens with vintage engine-turned buckle
- Jaeger LeCoultre watch, Reverso in yellow gold
My question on a black suit is what colour shirt, polo shirt, woollen etc do you wear underneath ?
The palette is limited as blue ( the go to shirt colour for men ) is out .
I can only think of a ‘strong’ colours like red or purple etc which then makes the suit a more fun night time party wear .
Blue in denim can work nicely Robin – see my black cord suit here. Also darker denims.
Then there are neutrals, as discussed here – black, grey, charcoal, cream etc
And among other colours, actually I find more muted versions of things like olive and pink work well. See my black tweed jacket here
And then there’s ties ……
I’m not sure I like the cut of this jacket (it is the same feeling I have towards Taillour or your recent Brycelands suit), they are too short, snug and with seemingly too a high button stance. They don’t look bespoke at all in my opinion (Brycelands is not bespoke).
Your reference to your Jean-Manuel Moreau black tweed jacket is very useful in this case: J-M M’s jacket is cut fuller, longer, looking very much more like a bespoke jacket, a true jacket.
I’m not sure I like this new trend of shortish, stockyish looking jackets.
It’s funny J, someone above has commented that the button stance here is especially low!
The cut of my Taillour and Brycelands jackets is also much more roomy than the JMM
Very cool look! Interesting to see your silver belt buckle with gold watch…I’d be anxious about clashing metals but is that over-fussy do you think? I’ve held off getting a steel sports watch because my wedding ring is gold!
Such a common topic! We need a post on this.
Watches and rings are a little different, as the two are so close to each other. You see them in the same view all the time.
Belt buckles and watches are easier. I’d still more commonly match, but much more relaxed about them not being the same
Many of the «luxury» steel sports watches come with (yellow/rose) gold hands. I wear an IWC Ingenieur myself, with that setup, and find it subtly matches the ring, maybe even better than a full on yellow/rose gold watch would.
Nice point
I don’t stress over a gold wedding band worn alongside a steel sports watch. My gold band goes with a PP when I’m working and a Submariner when I’m not.
I’d be far more conscious of a brown belt with black shoes or a black belt with brown ones.
Looks beautiful.
Personally I think the workshirt looks a little odd with this suit, but only when the jacket is buttoned. When unbuttoned it feels more relaxed and more intentional when you can see the pockets.
Thanks Aaron
Looks great, I would love it if we could break the black suit stigma .. I believe it has its place, and not just funerals – on that note, how do you think an elegant yet rugged black flannel suit / sportscoat would turn out? T.
I think a flannel suit would be a little hard in the way this is – but something more casual like corduroy is easier
I can see myself wearing black flannel trousers more
I quite like this getup with a black cashmere blazer and tonal greys. Would work in most modern offices, and a great evening/event outfit where a full suit and tie is not needed.
True, that’s nice. Better with a collar on the knit for most people, but a soft and textured evening look
The suit looks pretty good but is it a lark or could it serve a practical function? I completely agree with your point that black suits call up images of bouncers, doormen, and drivers (and cheesy celebrities). As a New Yorker who wears the requisite amount of black, I typically limit it to sweaters, jeans and leather jackets. The fact that you felt the need to dress down the suit with, in my view, a very casual shirt and less formal belt and shoes kind of highlights the incongruousness of it. While I try to dress in a non-stuffy way, I don’t really know what business situation it would feel right in or how practical it would be to a person with a less than unlimited clothing budget. Maybe I’m being overly rigid. To that point, what is your view on a black well tailored blazer with grey trousers for business wear in today’s financial industry (where some guys dress like they just stepped off the golf course)?
So, I dressed it down here but that doesn’t mean it couldn’t work smarter – eg with a rollneck, a buttonen-up knit, a cream silk shirt. Mentioned some of those things.
But, this is not a business thing, it’s a suit for evening and for events, or for work that is non-corporate and other people aren’t in navy or grey.
I don’t think a black blazer with grey trousers works that well in that context either, but see articles on my black cord and my black hopsack for more thoughts and suggestions there
Thanks for the feedback and referral to the articles. Issue with mine is that it’s a pretty typical Corneliani blazer, so more of a crepe. Unlike the hopsack or cord, I’m not sure the fabric texture works well with (most) dark jeans or corduroy. I may have to go with Paolo’s advice that black is just as versatile as navy and dress it accordingly. I won’t drag you down the rabbit hole of my sartorial choices but in this upside down world of NYC business dress, I tend to wear suits without a tie and blazers with one. So I feel like finer material trousers are required.
Thanks Mark, yes that makes sense. I’d try a grey trouser perhaps, and with a pink stripe shirt perhaps as an easy starter
I see you went with no cuffs on the trousers. What made you go with that decision?
Because it was meant to be a more formal piece
I have very little black in my wardrobe, so interesting to see this option brought forward. To my eye, this black seems rather chameleon-like. I’m seeing dark brown, deep navy, dark grey/charcoal and some black when paging through the pictures. I realize photos and differing light can render colors in materially different ways. That said, do you feel the mohair, and its at times sheen, has amplified the color variation in this case? Further, and if that’s the case, do you think that affords this suit some flexibility with color pairings that a black without a mohair blend would not?
It’s a good point Paul, and in some ways the fact the lighting varied for the different shots is helpful.
I don’t think it does make it more wearable with different colours though unfortunately, at least not in my experience so far.
I was thinking the same, in many photos it looks like a very deep navy suit that I have, and I could really mistake this one for a navy if I ran into Simon on the street.
As an evening out/event piece this is right up my alley. A more versatile alternative to the brown chalkstripe and navy seersucker suits, whether more or less pleasurable is subjective. I really like the framing with those loafers and silver buckled belt, has this sexy vibe to it as you put it. Not the biggest issue but I’m not entirely sure on mixing of metals in this case (maybe it’s time for a wg/steel/platinum dress watch?). Also at first glance I’d consider a different shirt, I see how this one works with loafers and belt but not so well with suit itself, although this could be the issue that only presents itself in photography and not in real world.
Is that a lower buttoning point than you normally go for? I note the top of the pockets don’t align with the top of the second button as they normally do? I guess another question is, does that matter?
It is pretty much what I go for these days, and I really like that proportion.
But yes, as you go lower it’s no longer possible for the buttons and pockets to line up, but no that doesn’t matter. It only make sense as a rule of thumb when buttoning points are higher. Buttoning position is much more influenced by style than pockets
Simon- Great suit. I have had a few things made at JM. What a nice group of folks. Question: what’s your decision making these days on trouser cuffs? I typically get them on any any formal trouser, but I’ve liked the aesthetic of no cuff on suits I’ve seen from Saman Amel, Stoffa, etc. A little more modern, a little cleaner, maybe more formal.
Broadly, is your thinking you match belt loops + no cuff and side adjusters + cuffs? Thanks.
No I wouldn’t say the relationship between belt loops and cuffs is that important. I can see the formality connection, but unless it was something smarter and more corporate where I would wear a tie quite a lot with it, I’d usually have belt loops these days.
On cuffs, I usually have them but not on smarter things like this or like my Luca Museo suit. It is very much a personal style thing though, and I do see the appeal of that Saman look
Suit looks great but I’m not so sure about the shirt pairing. I think it would look great with a tencel western-style shirt though
Simon, it seems the pick stitching on the lapels is rather prominent. Is that typical of the Meuser bespoke product? Thank you.
I think it’s mostly the light and the hard fabric making them more visible, they’re not that much more heavily done than any bespoke product.
While I understand the attempt to use a rural/western shirt/belt to confound the black suit’s formal connotation, I find the pieces incongruous with mohair. (I prefer congruity over deliberate contrast in this instance.) In addition, the primary problem with black suits is not the conceptual one (black only for black tie and funerals, etc.) but the flatness of lots of black fabrics. Especially shot under daylight, even this sheeny mohair looks lifeless, and the little bits of shirt fabric and loafer that’s used to provide *conceptual* contrast do little *visually* to enliven the outfit. This is especially apparent in the straight-on shot, sixth down from the top. Simon’s black cord suit works so much better in comparison. Husbands Paris recently put out a velvet suit that I also like. Tom Ford regularly does great sleek, all black looks with interesting fabrics. (TF excels at using synthetic materials in a way that achieves an aesthetic without cheapening the product.) The conceptual objection to black suits does not seem remotely relevant in any of these latter instances.
With regard to the quality of the tailoring, the fit of this suit is good but not great, and certainly achievable at a lower price. I don’t like the drape and how the shoulders look from the back (too narrow with poorly contouring taper).
And why is one pocket jetted and the other flapped? Or is the flap on the right pocket tucked in for some reason?
Thanks for the thoughts Ben.
Yes the flaps are normally tucked in, one must have gone astray
This is a really nice suit and I like the slightly louche way you have worn it here. I have toyed with the idea of a black suit for years but never gone for it in case I don’t get enough wear out of it, although every time you publish an article about black clothing I get more tempted.
I’m curious which you find easier to wear: this suit or your black corduroy suit? I think I would personally find black cord easier (not least since it can be split into separates) but reading both articles I get the impression that you feel more comfortable with this suit.
You’re right, I do find this one easier. I think it’s because it is designed for a particular use, and fits well in that context. The black cord I wear more outside of an evening context, and there it is a little more unusual
This look feels more rock ‘n’ roll – I can see Bryan Ferry wearing this suit, certainly in his heyday. I didnt expect to like it, but I do.
Great combination with the work shirt. I’m wondering whether you’ve had any particular thoughts on the slightly low button stance of that shirt with the top two buttons undone? A bit pernickerty but I’ve been having this dilemma with a couple of old early 80s Brooks Brothers Makers shirts I got on eBay a while ago – some days I don’t mind it but on others at certain ‘angles’ I get a bit more self conscious, and I’ve never liked just having the top button undone! I wonder if that second button did tend to hang a bit lower back then… Of course this might never have crossed your mind!
You’re right Simon, if this was a bespoke shirt of mine the button placement would be a little higher and the chest would be a little more open. I don’t mind it with a more evening-type suit like this fortunately. Sometimes when I wear this shirt more casually I wear a T-shirt underneath, or vest
Really striking suit; do you find that high a proportion of mohair gets a bit scratchy with long wear?
I’ve only worn in a few times, but I didn’t ever during the course of a day, no
It might just be the photos, but to be entirely honest, it looks charcoal. If you hadn’t said it’s black, I would not have noticed.
I’m not sure what idea is gonna take me longer to get used to: a black suit outside a funeral, or a work shirt with a suit xD fit looks great as usual, but if I may borrow an overused anglicism for a second: not my cuppa.
What was the thinking in not having cuffs on the trousers? Trying to keep a sleeker profile?
Yes exactly, that being the vibe of the whole suit
Considering the mohair/wool combo you chose, do you think you would wear the jacket separately?
No I don’t think so
It’s been real fun seeing you wear more black these past few years. Especially when you’re really investing into these bespoke tailored garments in black, it shows that you’re committed to making it work. The more I’ve gotten into menswear the less I’ve found myself wearing true black. It sometimes feels like I’m betraying myself in a way, considering I grew up wearing all black, and I still do so in my more casual wear (conditions of being a lifelong metalhead, you knew it was coming). Even before reading PS I knew that I always unconsciously felt something wrong with the cheap, shiny, mall brand black suits that guys get and it always looks like the suit is wearing them rather than the opposite. The simple concept of using such a traditionally formal color and utilizing them in non-traditional, sometimes casual ways, did a lot to bring me back to the roots of wearing black. I’ve commissioned a pair of black corduroy trousers for the remained of winter, and plan on getting a pair in linen for the summer months. Trying to bridge the gap between being somewhat “conventionally appropriate” with the idea of tailoring, and putting my own personal spin on things that might be off the beaten path. Great work again Simon, suit looks fantastic. I might need to stop by the JM house when it’s time to get my first jacket…
Did you have a discussion around leg opening? My experience with Mueser style is that the trouser can be significantly tapered, showing more shoe. I like how yours is wider at the bottom.
Yes, that is something I picked Ben. I would expect any tailor to give you the choice there and ask what you preferred
i wonder if the ‘patina’ of the western shirt drags down the whole look of quality of the suit.
i think the ‘caution’ of whether black is appropriate is completely blown out of proportion. a black suit or any other suit distinguishes it self by the make, cut, accessories and of course the cloth. if anyone is confusing this piece with what limo drivers or bouncers wear, then that’s no loss.
I think a reread of your cocktail attire piece before stylistic choices made would’ve helped, I think you’ve missed a trick by not making the suit a bit more… glamourous. still, I like it all the same. thanks for the read
Thanks Hamish, yes as mentioned in the article here I could have worn it much more in that fashion, with a roll neck for instance. It just wasn’t what I was going for here
Not the same IMHO without a decent shirt and tie. It’d be good, Simon, if your future suit reviews could include demos of what it looks like in both casual and formal modes.
Thanks Russ. Yes, often pieces are worn in different ways in future articles. It can be hard to include everything in one piece in terms of reviewing the experience, the make, the price, and the style. I guess there could be two different articles there
A bit loose fit. which I think is typical for US. In contrast to the English or London cut which fits closer to the body and which I personally prefer
Interesting! I wouldn’t have said it was loose at all, perhaps perspectives are splitting on these kinds of things
Perhaps it is the cut?
Perhaps, yes
Hi Simon, what’s the necklace your wearing in these pictures? Thanks.
It’s a vintage gold one that was a present from my wife. I am planning on doing a piece on it at some point
I don’t pretend to the kind of expertise, or experience of bespoke, that many of your readers have. All I can say is that, at first glance, this suit fits perfectly, which is not always the case with your bespoke commissions (no names mentioned).
Perhaps my phrasing was a bit awkward. I didn’t mean that your other commissions were ill-fitting, just that you seem frequently to have had adjustments made to others.
Hi Simon,
Is this different from their Mayfair tier? Or is it a different offering?
Thanks
I’m pretty sure this is Mayfair, but let me double check
Yes, checked and it is what they call Mayfair
I thought they used Orazio Luciano?
They have used different places, but you’re probably thinking of the MTM, this is a different offering, just bespoke, which is done in NY
Nice, I like that you wear more black in recent times and don’t only wear the menswear classics. Interesting though, black seems like a “trend” among menswear enthusiasts in last 2 years. I saw a lot of black linnen suits last year and even among people who have said “I would never wear black” 5 years ago, now are wearing it. I come from more fashion/trend clothes 10-15 years ago before my way into classic tailoring so I have always liked black. Of course it doesn’t look good everywhere but I have never understand the disgust against black in the menswear community. All classic menswear stores have persuaded me not going for black cloths in 10 years….but at the same time, the same people always say “the tuxedo is the most elegant thing you could wear”….ok, its a black suit with white shirt basically…if you feel very elegant in that, why would you look so bad in a black suit with a white shirt during evening if the suit is made of good cloth?
I have a similar take on your suit but I chose a black wool/cashmere blend in my jacket together with black twill pants (Saman Amel). I think it looks very good together for evening wear (not black tie).
What has surprised me is everytime I see you in videos (on Youtube) I think your suits looks much more flattering than they do on photos here on PS. I don’t mean that they look bad here, not at all, but more flattering on videos.
That’s an interesting last point Stefan. Yes I think a lot of the time when you stand stock still in a suit it doesn’t look great. The shape comes across in movement
Hi Simon,
First of all, I think its very cool that you so actively respond to all the readers. Second, I see you are mixing metals with your gold reverso and the steel buckle. I always wear steel watches, but love the warmth of gold and many buckles are gold or brass these days. I have hesitated to do this, but it looks great here. Am I overthinking this and should be mixing my metals?
Thanks Andrew.
That’s addressed above in the comments actually. Have a search for ‘metals’
Hi Simon,
Your page is truly a gem.
I plan to have a tux made for my upcoming wedding in 5 months. I was considering 3 options in NYC: 1) Bespoke with J. Mueser; 2) Bespoke with Thom Sweeney; 3) MTM with Joseph Genaurdi.
I will also have an accompanying waistcoat made with a low horseshoe/U cut style. I have broader shoulders and some bulk on my biceps/delts so historically have had some MTM challenges with smaller arm-holes, shoulders not being extended out enough, and needing more room for my back/lats etc.
Which of the 3 options would you lean towards? Any guidance you could offer would be greatly appreciated.<
Probably bespoke with J Mueser, unless there’s something about the comparative styles of the houses that really strikes you. This experience of mine with Jake was good and he’s good value for money too
Simon, it’s great to hear about your positive experience with Jake. Many thanks for your invaluable feedback. I was actually also considering Cad & The Dandy, but given my prior shoulder issues with MTM was frankly intimidated by the prospect of a classic Savile Row suit, with its characteristic high armhole and close fitting silhouette. Do you think that concern is legit or that it may be worthwhile to consider a house such as C&D?
I think that would be less of an issue with bespoke, but yes I can see the concern certainly