The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. ...
Reader profile: Andy
This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He is passionate about clothing, ...
Reader profile: Andy
This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He...
I have Gay Talese’s hat
Gay Talese. In a different hat By Tom Mastronardi "The story I’m about to relate is true; it really happened, just a few short years ago, before Covid upended the simple everyday pleasure of running into someone you know on the street and havi...
I have Gay Talese’s hat
Gay Talese. In a different hat By Tom Mastronardi "The story I’m about to relate is true; it really happened, just a few short years ago, before Covid upended the simple everyday pleasure of running into someone you k...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...
It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear into other beautiful, cra...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...
It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear...
The custom-block service, from Optimo
Over the past year or so, Optimo has been developing a unique bespoke hat programme, where a personal ‘block’ is made for each customer. Most Optimo hats are already made to order, so customers pick their felt, their crown style and the...
The custom-block service, from Optimo
Over the past year or so, Optimo has been developing a unique bespoke hat programme, where a personal ‘block’ is made for each customer. Most Optimo hats are already made to order, so customers pick their felt, th...
Hats with coats: A sliding scale
I’m often asked which hats work best with different types of coat. In fact, it often comes up at this time of year - I guess when unexpected showers are more of a hazard. The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora i...
Hats with coats: A sliding scale
I’m often asked which hats work best with different types of coat. In fact, it often comes up at this time of year - I guess when unexpected showers are more of a hazard. The sliding scale of formality with hats is pr...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...
The hats of author Ned Brown
In our recent article on Wellema , much of the conversation in the comments centred around the relevance and wearability of hats today. So I thought it would be interesting to look into the habits and collection of a reader, in this case author and...
The hats of author Ned Brown
In our recent article on Wellema , much of the conversation in the comments centred around the relevance and wearability of hats today. So I thought it would be interesting to look into the habits and collection of a ...
Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review
This is my first hat from Cody Wellema, the LA-based craftsman that we covered the background on a couple of weeks ago. A hat from Cody is an investment - something that is truly made to last for years, and to be cleaned, reblocked and looked after....
Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review
This is my first hat from Cody Wellema, the LA-based craftsman that we covered the background on a couple of weeks ago. A hat from Cody is an investment - something that is truly made to last for years, and to be cleane...
The quality and style of Wellema hats
Everyone you speak to about Cody Wellema (above) agrees on two things. That he’s a lovely, lovely man. And that his hats are top notch. I can certainly attest to the former - and the latter I’ll cover when I review the hat I’m hav...
The quality and style of Wellema hats
Everyone you speak to about Cody Wellema (above) agrees on two things. That he’s a lovely, lovely man. And that his hats are top notch. I can certainly attest to the former - and the latter I’ll cover when I revie...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs...
Video: What makes a quality hat?
In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking. I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spent most of their professional c...
Video: What makes a quality hat?
In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking. I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spe...
PS Watch Caps back in stock
The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colour of classic flannels - would ...
PS Watch Caps back in stock
The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colou...
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted countryside. Optimo is small an...
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted countrysi...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothin...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different from what I had seen at other...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suited to tailoring; and a cream t...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suit...
Optimo hats, Chicago
Optimo is everything you might want from a craft manufacturer. There was a passionate beginning; a long gestation; success and popularity; and now a beautiful new factory that supports transmission of the craft. Plus a product that is superlative ...
Optimo hats, Chicago
Optimo is everything you might want from a craft manufacturer. There was a passionate beginning; a long gestation; success and popularity; and now a beautiful new factory that supports transmission of the craft. Plus ...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the o...
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, high...
How a hat should fit (with Stephen Temkin fedora)
Every man thinks hats don't suit him. Yet every man, of every shape and size, used to wear a hat - and they looked good. Conclusion: men don't know how to pick a hat. I know I've run through that before, but it bears repeating in the name of re-pop...
How a hat should fit (with Stephen Temkin fedora)
Every man thinks hats don't suit him. Yet every man, of every shape and size, used to wear a hat - and they looked good. Conclusion: men don't know how to pick a hat. I know I've run through that before, but it bear...
Introducing: The Permanent Style watch cap
As promised last year, the Permanent Style watch cap is finally available - it’s on the PS store, price £69 plus VAT, in navy or grey. It’s a collaboration I’ve been building to for a long time. As far back as 2014, I bought ...
Introducing: The Permanent Style watch cap
As promised last year, the Permanent Style watch cap is finally available - it’s on the PS store, price £69 plus VAT, in navy or grey. It’s a collaboration I’ve been building to for a long time. As far back as 20...
High/low dressing
The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...
High/low dressing
The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the ot...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting point is the jacket, made for m...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The startin...