The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
Match in comments:
Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
Match in comments:
Thanks, Garry, and glad to see Simon and you both agree on this. A modernised take on the safari, which would mean minus the epaulets and at least a minimised or de-ephasised belt (half belt, internal cinch instead, or n...
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
By Manish Puri If my years of reading Permanent Style have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look better than a tailored jacket. If my years of having eyes have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look w...
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
Match in comments:
How hard it is to fit pleats depends rather on the person - how big they are in the hips and seat. The brands offer it because it's a smarter, more tailored style I assume...
This feels like me
I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
Match in comments:
No worries...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
By Manish Puri Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer? It shouldn’t be difficult to answ...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
Match in comments:
Nice...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
Match in comments:
Either would be fine, but a 3-roll-2 might suit the casual nature of it a bit more...
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben
Match in comments:
Love the semi-casual....
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
I’ve always recommended Crockett & Jones to readers over the years, as a solid, good-value English shoe. But I’ve only briefly owned a pair. I had some when I was in my twenties, but bought the wrong size - so sold them within a ...
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
Match in comments:
It's really a question of how much you will appreciate the differences in terms of fineness of materials, Boris, and any preferences in style. With English makers you can largely see you're getting more for more money, b...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Match in comments:
Blimey. Yes I think you're right Markus, and it's very interesting to hear that journey. It's why I think what I've called ' casual chic' is so practical a lot of the time - it's less about whether you wear chinos or not...
Playing around with white bucks
During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The shoes were a recreation of a 1...
Playing around with white bucks
Match in comments:
I called Alden in Massachusetts on 16 February 2022. The woman stated that they are not making the white bucks because they cannot find the leather. I got an email from Crockett & Jones who stated that they will have...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Match in comments:
Great feedback, thanks Craig...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Match in comments:
great thanks a lot!...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
Match in comments:
Thanks Simon, much appreciated....
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back of a cab on his way h...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
Match in comments:
Ah, nice to hear that Leo. I do it really just to keep myself entertained, so good to know when readers like it too!...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
Match in comments:
Just in case you weren't aware Mike, the current Army chinos aren't the same as the ones I've covered here - different material, cut and maker...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
Match in comments:
The shape of the one in this article Taewoo? Yes I do, I presume you've read those comments on it in the article?...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Match in comments:
It's hard sometimes to quantify precisely, because of the combination of gauge and ply - the gauge meaning it might be chunky hard but it's more loosely put together. Our shawl is a little like that....
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
Rubato The Permanent Style pop-up shop is coming back to 37 Savile Row, in the second half of March. Those following PS on Instagram stories might have seen the gradual announcements, but we have just confirmed the final two brands this week: Scott...
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
Match in comments:
Navy would be my first thought, then cream knitwear. Maybe black as well?...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
Match in comments:
I would certainly he hesitant about playing with the proportions too much, MK, at least until you've worn it a fair bit. Also, if it's a straight cut like that, don't ever just taper the waist. If you want it more shaped...
The polo shirt under knitwear
I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
Match in comments:
Spread. I find it sits better myself...
Holiday snaps 2019: No shorts in the city
I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers find it interesting h...
Holiday snaps 2019: No shorts in the city
Match in comments:
'It's possible to be overdressed in this way, too'. If such an outfit which you are wearing or for example an outfit like a shirt/polo with linen trouser and espadrilles can seem overdressed then what does the average cr...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...
I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and hear the experiences, views ...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...
Match in comments:
Nice point. I have a shirt made by them so will plan to do that...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Match in comments:
It depends on your body shape, how you find things fit, and how much you value superior fit as well. There are some thoughts here if you're interested...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury (or, how to break ...
Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not surprising. I...
Best US shop 2019: The Armoury (or, how to break ...
Match in comments:
Thanks Dennis. So aside from the quality, do you mean someone is not being honest? Sorry I didn’t quite understand...
