My Favourite Madras Shirt: Original Madras Tradin...
By Manish Puri In 1973, Ranjit Shah left his hometown of Madras (now Chennai) carrying a suitcase full of cloth swatches and emigrated to New York City. Within a few years, he’d established Original Madras Trading Company (OMTC) on West 38th S...
My Favourite Madras Shirt: Original Madras Tradin...
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Great piece, Manish. I like Madras cloth, if for no other reason than that I spent part of my youth in Trivandrum, just 500 miles from Madras, before emigrating to the US! I do have a couple of questions about the MTC sh...
Friday Polos, Linen Overshirts and T-shirts: The ...
There are quite a few things to catch up on with regards to PS products, and it feels like readers have quite a few questions too, given the number that have come up in comments. So it might be good to have all of those answered in one place. First,...
Friday Polos, Linen Overshirts and T-shirts: The ...
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No I think it would be fine, the Alden isn't a strong shade which helps...
The Casual Style Guide back in stock
I swear, we didn't try to create any of this hype. The Casual Style Guide, the book Jamie Ferguson and I published in March, was just popular. Particularly with wholesale accounts - menswear shops around the world - who bought up much of the stock b...
The Casual Style Guide back in stock
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Ha! Lovely to hear Aaron, and feel free to carry on asking questions here....
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
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If you're familiar with Florentine style, that's what 15 is recreating. But if you're not, it's essentially a wider shoulder and sligtly more sharpness to the cut...
New York: A menswear shopping guide
New York is a strange town for menswear. It doesn’t have the same traditional shops as Europe and bespoke is substantially undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it’s for value and department stores: l...
New York: A menswear shopping guide
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Really appreciate having a list like this as a reference guide. Thank you, Simon. Another independent shop I would proffer for inclusion would be Fine and Dandy, in Hell's Kitchen. It's a small establishment, somewhat ec...
Book launches in Paris and New York
We're going to have launch parties for the new book, The Casual Style Guide, in both Paris and New York over the coming months. The Paris launch will be on April 18th at Beige, and New York on May 16th at The Armoury. I'm really excited about this. ...
Book launches in Paris and New York
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Great news. I can't wait to hear more about the book launches in Paris and New York. It's fantastic that there will be stock available at the launch events, even though the book sold out online so quickly....
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Shirtmaker probably. But you really want someone to do it that has already made something like that, at least if you want to make sure it is what you have in mind...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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That is helpful, as always. Thank you Simon....
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
By Manish Puri If my years of reading Permanent Style have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look better than a tailored jacket. If my years of having eyes have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look w...
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
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Probably, yes can't see any reason why they wouldn't...
This feels like me
I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
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I'd say it's usually just as subtle, yes. Maybe not quite as smart, but that only matters if you do want to be that smart...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
By Manish Puri Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer? It shouldn’t be difficult to answ...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
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That's fair, and yes the Colhays lambswool one is nice. Chunky and warm, though obviously not luxurious in the way these cashmere ones are...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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Simon or Manish, have either of you tried the Bryceland’s easy jacket? How might it compare to those discussed here?...
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
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Love the semi-casual....
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
I’ve always recommended Crockett & Jones to readers over the years, as a solid, good-value English shoe. But I’ve only briefly owned a pair. I had some when I was in my twenties, but bought the wrong size - so sold them within a ...
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
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Yes they are...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
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Probably matte-black linen, though silk varies a fair bit so it's hard to say much about it without seeing it in person...
Playing around with white bucks
During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The shoes were a recreation of a 1...
Playing around with white bucks
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I went to prep school in Cambridge, MA. I laughed when I read your comment about your headmaster wearing his white bucks all the time....
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
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Not particulary - it's hard as weave makes a difference as well. But if you see the cloth in person and put your fingers behind it, it's usually fairly easy to tell. And Irish always has less of that risk...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Hi Simon, I am interested in a brown three season MTM Neapolitan jacket to wear mostly casually with some ability to dress up (inspired by your Eduardo De Simone brown cashmere jacket). I was looking at a 320 gram or 11....
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
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Hey Dale - if you look up Vestrucci in the search you'll find a full article on the suit. However, it is bespoke from Florence and I doubt you necessarily need that, more just the style...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back of a cab on his way h...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
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Ah, nice to hear that Leo. I do it really just to keep myself entertained, so good to know when readers like it too!...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
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Hey Dani, Yes I know them well and have had some things over the years. The quality is good, I would only observe that they tend to push more the tough and heavyweight motorcycle clothing angle, which makes some of them ...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
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Suits you well, Simon…or conversely so. The jacket is well-styled and fits nicely; and while I agree that trousers could use a bit more fluidity, they work well nonetheless. My usual small point of contention goes to t...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
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Mostly the style...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
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It's hard sometimes to quantify precisely, because of the combination of gauge and ply - the gauge meaning it might be chunky hard but it's more loosely put together. Our shawl is a little like that....
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
Rubato The Permanent Style pop-up shop is coming back to 37 Savile Row, in the second half of March. Those following PS on Instagram stories might have seen the gradual announcements, but we have just confirmed the final two brands this week: Scott...
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
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Navy would be my first thought, then cream knitwear. Maybe black as well?...