I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often.
It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket.
It has the distinctive lapel shape of the Teba, where the collar is extended to meet the lapel in a point, but it's a little longer and slimmer.
The chest pocket is also lengthened to fit (some) smart phones, the hip pockets have had their flaps removed, and there are some tailoring details like hand-sewn buttonholes.
It's an elevated but also easier to wear version, for me, and would make a good first foray into the style for any PS reader that normally wears tailored jackets.
I'm writing about it now, of course, in the context of last week's article breaking down all the casual alternatives to a sports jacket.
This probably sits at the smarter end of that spectrum, just below an unstructured but tailored jacket. It’s also quite accessible for a Teba, given The Armoury's multiple stores and ability to do both MTM and MTO.
I know plenty of readers who work in offices where a tailored jacket is now a rarity, but still want something they can wear over a shirt - to smarten things up, to be flattering, to avoid having to carry things in their trouser pockets, and simply to provide a little bit of interest ( for themselves or for others).
If a normal Teba is a little big or boxy for any of them, too close to a chore coat perhaps, then interpretations like this can be good.
(Some other houses do offer MTM, such as Burgos in Madrid, though they are less accessible for many.)
The material of this Armoury one is a nice mid-weight wool - around 11oz, the kind of weight you can wear indoors all the time - and of course it's a colour I've made into a bespoke jacket as well.
If I had my way, I'd make the flap on that chest pocket a tiny bit bigger, and perhaps remove the snap, but these are small things.
More important is the balance of the shape - the pattern cutting - which is one reason bespoke makers can struggle to make a jacket like this if they've never done it before. Although all physiques are different, it's impressive how well this RTW garment sits on my shoulders - how clean it is across the top of the chest.
Tebas can be worn with the collar up (above) or down (above that).
Up is perhaps more casual, and starts to recall a Mao or Nehru suit. I prefer it to having the collar down with this model, however, as the lapel that’s formed is quite slim. Some other Tebas have a larger front edge, and create a bigger lapel.
The choice could also depend on physique. With my relatively long neck and face, it looks better to wear a collared shirt if the collar is down. A crewneck knit, as here, is better framed by the raised collar.
The knit is the dark-olive cashmere from Colhay's, which I find makes a nice alternative to greys with a relatively cold-colour outfit like this.
The scarf is an Aran from Begg & Co, as per usual, which again is great in that kind of wardrobe. The jeans are Drake's and the boots are Galways from Edward Green.
There's a Rubato suede belt on the jeans, largely hidden, which adds another little point of interest. The hat is a PS Watch Cap.
It’s nice to show the Saman Amel coat again, because I haven’t done so much - only previously here.
Interestingly (at least for me) I like the collar of this coat worn down now, which is really how it is designed to sit - it's arguably a little small when worn up.
I remember discussing this with Dag and Saman when I had the coat made, and swearing I'd always wear it up. I think I've softened a little on that when it suits the style.
One of the reasons I like a popped collar is the shape it creates around the face. With the collar down, wearing a scarf just inside helps create a lot of the same effect.
The Armoury’s City Hunter 2 ranges in price from $695 for a jersey version to $1025 for this model. The price reflects the unique model, but also a higher level of make with the handsewn buttonholes, and techniques like edge-to-edge seams on the jersey.
Well-known Spanish makers include Bel & Cia in Barcelona and Burgos in Madrid. The most widely sold though is Justo Gimeno, who is sold at Fox Brothers, Beige, Michael Jondral and others.
There is a range to try on at the Fox pop-up on Savile Row at the moment - at 20 Savile Row, just this week. And Oliver Brown has a handful in London too.
Photography: Alex Natt
I can’t shake the feeling that when the collar’s up it looks like it should be down and when it’s down it looks like it should be up.
Yeah I know what you mean Ray – I think it takes a bit of getting used to if you’re more used to normal fold-down collars, and it’s the thing that won’t be for everyone from a style point of view
Collar turned up and it looks like a Nehru jacket or one of those Bavarian/ Alpine jackets that often have either silver or stag horn buttons. In any event, this one you wear here is very nice.
I think the jacket works well with the Colhays jumper, I would like to buy from them but their basic cashmere crew neck is £370 , and they never seem to have even small promotions ie 10 % where as lockies can be £100 less , so hard to justify , do you have any plans to reissue the loro piana merino navy crewneck you did a few years back btw ?
Actually yes Ian… Hopefully should be coming back in the Spring. We’ll start building a waiting list soon
Hi Simon, any chance of a V neck revival?
No, sorry Michael. The crew was always much more popular, and easier to wear on its own too
If I may, the Bel y Cia one is absolutely amazing (fit, cloth selection, advice on style etc); trouble is you now kind of need to go to Barcelona to get it made / fitted given all the Brexit nonsense. It’s worth it though – Simon, I know you’ve alluded to the customer experience in numerous shops / tailors and having traveled a fair bit I’d say Bel is right up there with the best. They also send you a rather fine bottle of Spanish red at Christmas…
Thank you JL, I’ll certainly do that at some point
Fully agree JL – Bel y Cia is a wonderful place/experience & have the best Tebas. Also, they have a shop in Geneva, last time I checked.
Would you say that it is slim fitting for a Teba? Both of mine are tighter over the shoulders and chest. I much prefer the styling of yours.
one think that I have never got used to is the tightness of the sleeve and cuff. Again, the looser fit seems more contemporary .
I think I would wear both collars up.
I think it is a little through the body, yes, though of course Tebas themselves vary a little between makers as well
Nice casual jacket.Good to see a change from a conventional jacket.
I’m thinking about purchasing a wool or cashmere crew neck from Colhays or maybe John Smedley.I’ll wear it with a shirt under an odd jacket or suit.Any thoughts on which brand you would choose?I prefer a slim,shorter sweater in most instances.
Well, the biggest difference there is Colhays is a fluffier woollen knit, Smedley is a finer merino, smoother with a drier handle. Different beasts from a style point of view.
The latter is easier to wear under most jackets, but it depends on how closely the jacket fits
Thanks Simon.I read above that you are going to reissue the LP navy merino crew neck…I might wait for that on PS.
IIRC Oliver Brown’s Tebas were introduced by a Spanish Head Cutter who appears to have left. They have been discounted substantially in the sales over the last few years and the website suggests there are not many left.
RTW Tebas can be found at much lower prices in menswear stores throughout Spain. The locals have to survive on low wages and genuine bargains can be found in cities such as Sevilla and Girona.
Thank you Gary, useful if going to Spain. If you actually hear that the Oliver Brown ones are being discontinued, let me know
What is the quality of the OBs Teba,Simon? There are big reductions on their website?
I’ve only tried them once, but the quality seemed fine. None of the additions the Armoury have added to theirs, but the normal straightforward make.
The Oliver Brown website says that the Tebas are now sold out. Given their heavy discounting in the sales, it would be a surprise if Kristian brought them back. His focus is now very much on formal wear and tailoring. The sizing (RTW suits are now drop 4!) and cut have changed for the worse in recent years so I’ve given up on the brand.
Thank you
The OB Tebas I tried had lovely cloth but were not well thought out. For a start, they were unlined. The two RTW Spanish ones I bought were lined in the sleeve and shoulders, which makes slipping them on and off easy.
I wonder where (or if) Simon’s Armory number is lined, or what the Classic Criteria are meant to be
Mine is lined Anton, yes, but again it’s The Armoury’s one so not typical
I dimly recall Mark Cho saying they were mulling over the prospects of opening The Armoury in London – do you know if that’s on the cards at all, Simon?
No it isn’t unfortunately
There is something about that uninterrupted collar shape that reminds me of very cheap top coats with a similar design. they look just bad for me. I guess design is so much about culture and perception which can’t be evaluated in a vacuum.
Yes I get the association and I think you’re right Fernando. It makes a big difference when you’ve seen a few people wearing them in ways you like, and that feel relatable, and then also perhaps tried one on yourself
This is the sort of jacket I struggle to see any place for, at least in my wardrobe.
Seems like a bit of a halfway house to me. In fact, most of the jackets in your previous article demonstrating a range of casual jacket fall into what I’d consider an awkward no mans land.
Tailored jackets and unstructured tailored jackets make sense to me. Chore jackets, trucker jackets do too. But they dressy casual jackets to me seem to look like a try-hard attempt to be chic and dressy whilst trying to conform to some casualised approach to dressing. The material looks lovely. The cut for me doesn’t seem to work.
On the other hand, the outfit with the SA coat looks awesome. Love the use of cool colours there. Are those jeans drakes?
Thanks, yes they are.
It’s interesting Jackson, this seems to split readers, as so many say they love that style of more casual jacket that still allows them to dress up. Perhaps it’s driven by being a type of person, or in a type of environment, where a tailored jacket just doesn’t fit. In that case it’s wonderful to wear something more under the radar, as it were. Not a tailored jacket, but still with all the advantages of pockets, colour, and more flattering shape than just a shirt and trousers.
I think my response to the situation is to alter how I’d wear a tailored jacket. Jeans, t-shirt, perhaps a scarf. Etc etc. However, I appreciate that also isn’t for everyone!
If I were to enter a situation in which a tailored jacket was just simply going to be totally over dressed, I’d probably go the other way and lean into streetwear or chunky knits. To my eyes, anywhere I could wear a jacket like that, I’d also be able to wear a tailored jacket with a few outfit decisions made to casualise it.
One thing I have found rarely resonates with me in the comment section here at PS, is the conviction many people seem to have that a sports jacket has become so overly formal in this day and age that it is often incongruous. Maybe a pinstripe double breasted english structured suit might look a bit mad now, but just a jacket? Certainly might have been the case for about a year over the covid era, but things seem to have returned to a more pre-pandemic state mens style wise as far as I can tell. Maybe with a slight lean towards the casual, rather than that work from home chic that we had imposed on us by brands tryiing to remain relevant during a very weird and difficult time. Then again, maybe living in central london and finding environments to wear a tailored jacket is easier than many other places.
Yes I think you might be right Jackson. Also, it often depends on the office someone works in. If no one else is wearing a tailored jacket, and wearing one gets a ‘have you got a meeting’ inquiry every time, there’s not much you can do.
Maybe a longer waistcoat with a roomier cut that doesn’t need a jacket on top?
A waistcoat style would be much more unusual and not a jacket substitute in some ways (eg in an office). It can work, eg you see some people wearing hunting styles with knits or hoodies sometimes and that works well. But it’s a different look
I don’t mind the “halfway” position, I’d just feel free to dress it up or down. I always wanted a casual lapelled jacket to wear with a camp collar as a runaway collar, and I feel like tebas are really ideal for that purpose.
Looks good. Bit of a Chairman Mao look.
Hey Simon, is the Begg scarf in dark grey? Thanks
Yes
I love them .
It’s the next ‘new’ thing following the pandemic after Overshirts.
Much better than a traditional jacket in weather .
It’s casual and smart .
It has real utility
It’s 21st century clothing .
They always look like they have the comfort of a Boglioli unstructured jkt.
Now I just need to get hold of one at a reasonable price !
I note you wear it with white trousers . For those less ‘brave’ what other colour trousers would work with that outfit .
P.S.
you should also look into Bavarian Jkts .
Although a ‘cultural’ jkt I think it can work really well like the teba.
Thanks Robin, yes those Bavarian styles were discussed on our general piece on this type of jacket last week. A little too specific for me I think.
These are off-white jeans, easier than trousers. But with this outfit I’d wear a mid-grey or dark grey (you can see how nice that is with the scarf). I’d also wear shades of beige, possibly a really dark brown too. I’d wear dark olive if I swapped the knit to something else – a grey or a cream perhaps
In the German speaking world, at least in Austria/Vienna, Bavarian / Tyrolian jackets come with a bit of historical baggage. It generally shows that you are politically on the right, sometimes even on the very far right, especially when you wear them in larger cities like Vienna. A little bit like very classical Safari jackets or old fashioned tweed jackets in England, I suppose from Simon’s view on them.
Interesting observation, as the classic teba comes with a similar bit of historical baggage in Spain. That aside, I personally like the Armoury’s elongated take on it.
I mean the suit comes with that baggage as well.
I think the difference is that the suit today is generally a required workplace uniform (though, yes, a minority such as some PS followers wear it where it is not frowned upon). One wears it irrespective of political affiliation.
The Teba is one of many less formal jacket options and tends to signal a right-wing political affiliation (at least in its native Spain).
Nicely styled. Somehow my favourite looks from you always have a scarf included in the ensemble, whether it’s orange, olive or this slate (?). That extra contrasting colour and texture really elevates outfit, like a tie with a suit.
Out of all these alternatives to sport coat, City Hunter I find the only one to be genuinely attractive. That’s probably because, in appearance, it comes closest to actual structured jacket. Impression that if further enhanced by the choice of wool in the one you’re wearing.
While wearing my everyday clothes I can just grab the City Hunter and go, no further thought needed, it will work. This I find comforting, while with chore and safari jackets not so much.
Nice observation on the scarf, yes I think it makes a big difference when there’s no tie or handkerchief
Agreed! Might you consider doing a piece on a capsule scarf collection / ‘if you only had five scarfs’?
Sure
I note reference to Fox and having just looked at their website note that they have a teba in a very heavy overcoating material (900g+).
I should be grateful for your thoughts (or maybe Douglas’ thoughts, as he is presumably within shouting distance) on how that could work practically. My concern is that it is too heavy to wear indoors and as outside wear, may start to look a bit “Michael Foot”.
I don’t think you’d get that outside Rob, but yes it certainly is heavy and would be more outerwear.
To be clear, Fox are running the pop-up on their own at the moment, so I’m not in the shop! I’m only there when my clothes are – so with the first Permanent Style week, and next week for a bit when my pre-owned stuff is in with Marrkt
Hi Simon, great outfit, any ID on the Begg scarf colour? Looks like the dark grey but I can’t be certain. Thanks.
Yes, it’s the dark grey
Interesting article Simon, though it seems to split opinion I can see how a Teba would fit into someone’s wardrobe given the modern office/professional etc. circumstances. Frankly you make everything look good, but I still think this style of jacket would flatter the majority of guys too.
I have to say though, the highlight is the second outfit with the Saman Amel coat, beautiful. The grey watch cap, the charcoal scarf and the dark olive crewneck, trifecta, perfection. Texture heaven going on there.
Also I agree on the collar being down since you point it out, which is interesting because I wear the collar up on just about everything I can get away with. As you point out with the scarf filling in the gap, plus the design of the open front lapels, just looks nice and relaxed this way. To contrast, the PS raglan for example, with it’s straight front closure it’s asking to be worn up (always).
Completely agree CK, good point
You made this piece look very nice and last week i was taking a look at this on the armoury and i was thinking tha it was a middle aged boring mans piece. I quess thats one of the pieces that fit in every wardrobe but if someone has many other jackets it will maybe not see much use to justify the money. The boots are great and make me ask something. Do you wear theese or the angloitalian more ? Also whats your oponion on the alden 986 as an everyday cordovan loafer ?
Thank you Georgios. It’s interesting, I do think the more casual clothes are the more style can depend on how you wear them and what you wear them with. This jacket is a little of a case in point.
I wear these boots a lot more than the Anglo. I like the latter, but these are much more my style and a finer make. The Alden 986 is a great, classic loafer, though I prefer slimmer-looking models usually (as with the boots) and so wear the full strap on the Aberdeen last instead
It seems like this teba is significantly shorter than a tailored jacket? Is that correct? If so, doesn’t it have the same problem a short tailored jacket has ?
The back length is 30 inches, so pretty close to my shorter tailored jackets. But I don’t think it really suffers from the same problem in terms of not covering the seat, for example, because the style is obviously different. The straight hem and lack of lapel push it a little towards the look of a chore, which would nearly always be shorter.
Thank Simon. It looks like it’s longer than it appears in your pictures or indeed the Armoury’s.
Nonetheless, the question was more about the ideal length for the style which you’ve answered. It makes sense then a more casual garment, closer to a chore, doesn’t need to cover the west necessarily.
Yes, I’d say a chore you probably want to be somewhere between halfway down your seat, and the bottom of your seat
Sastreria Langa also makes their own Teba, which I got in a fresco wool. Having tried one at Burgos a few hours previously, the Langa one seemed to fit a bit more roomy.
Interesting. Although I do not see a need for a Teba-jacket for me. The unstructured K-Jackets of Boglioli, of which I own too many, are simply too close in style to justify an investment in a Teba jacket. Further, while a third of even fourth button with a jacket like collar looks great on you, it would probably not look as good on a shorter person like me.
This post and the previous one on the “new casual jacket” is timely for me. It’s an area I find myself thinking about quite seriously at the moment. Having worked as a senior manager in the university sector for quite some time, I wore suits five days a week, which seemed to be the accepted, indeed expected, mode of dress. I’m now semi-retired, though highly active as a non-executive member of various boards and consultant. Whilst there has been a noticeable relaxation of dress code following the relaxation of pandemic restrictions, I’ve noticed that there has been something of a bounce-back for tailoring in most of the boards with which I am involved. However, these are no longer daily activities for me and I definitely don’t need to be in suits more than a few days a month.
Having spent so long with suits as my daily workwear, I’m enjoying having good quality knitwear as my daily wear. However, I find that I miss tailoring and I’m not entirely comfortable without some version of it, which has prompted my search for a suitable, more casual alternative. The Teba definitely isn’t for me. It just looks odd to my eyes, and I echo the comments of another reader in that the collar looks wrong whether down or up. Of course that’s a matter of personal taste. I find myself looking at alternatives, like William Crabtree’s Lowgill jacket, which seems to be similar in some respects, but with a more conventional-looking collar and lapel, that can still be worn up or down. With the collar and lapel down, it looks a little more, at least superficially, like a conventional sports jacket. I’m still a little undecided and find myself in agreement with another reader who commented that his preference was simply for a softer version of a sports jacket. To that end, I’ve also been looking at the unstructured tweed jackets and Games Blazer from Drakes and other similar offerings. I quite like some of their sports jackets which remind me a little of some of the ones often offered by Ralph Lauren, but seem a little more authentic to me. I’ve often felt that Lauren’s take on the tweed jacket to have something of pastiche about them. Incidentally, I’m a fan of the chore jacket and have three, but they’re in cotton materials like denim and corduroy. I’ve thought about versions in tweed or other wool cloths, but somehow they don’t look right to me. I’d like to see, in person, the ones that Fox are currently offering, but unfortunately, I won’t be able to make it to London while they’re at the PS pop-up.
So, my options seem to be the Crabtree Lowgill, the Drakes Games or their soft-tailored sports jackets, which seem to be a little expensive for what they are, especially as they’re only half-canvased. Perhaps that matters less for something so casual, though. Any other suggestions gratefully received!
I have tried, but I can’t get into these completely deconstructed versions of tailored jackets, which this Teba is an example of. It’s neither fish nor fowl. It looks good on you here, especially unbuttoned, and I *really* like the fabric and color, but I can’t help but think it would be better as either a Neapolitan tailored jacket, or a blouson/Harrington type casual jacket, or an overshirt (which is deconstructed but isn’t trying to look like a tailored jacket), or even a safari jacket – especially when it gets buttoned. And it’s a lot less flattering on the person on the Armoury website. To be clear, I feel this way about just about every deconstructed tailored jacket I’ve tried, so if that’s a style someone likes, this would probably serve them well.
Simon, this material would be a nice choice for another iteration of the PS Overshirt or PS Harrington.
Thanks Craig. I wouldn’t want it in a Harrington myself, but I can see it as an overshirt
Hi Simon,
I seem to recall that you are planning an article on the Drakes Games Blazer’s.
I have a summer version (the MK4) in a cotton and linen mix. I find the complete range (MK1-4), nicely bridge the gap especially in the more casual materials such a cord, linen etc.
Thanks Stephen, good to know. Yes I am, it will be up next week. Interested to hear your thoughts on yours in the comments there too
I did really really consider one. especially during last sale. but thankfully I saw it’s ventless before buying.
I really like the look of the jacket – colour, shape and texture. I also like a ticket pocket which this appears to have – I put lavender in mine, every jacket and even coats I own: rustling around in the pocket in the middle of darkest Winter it reminds me of the Summer coming again, can be thrown into an open fire to give an instant fragrance to any room – and keeps the moths away(!).
What a lovely touch Tony
I’m Spanish, and the only Teba I own is… Burberry’s!!! That’s life…
Nice to see real smartness.Simplistic but sartorial .
Dear Simon,
I like the Galways boots from Edward Green, but they are above my price limit. I would appreciate, if you or one of the readers have an alternative recommendation.
Best regards
Christopher
Hi Christopher,
I like the design more than any other English maker, myself, but there are lots of other boot options at lower prices, and with those Northampton brands you largely get what you pay for in that regard. Look to Crocketts next, Trickers, then Barker/Loake etc towards the lower end.
Hi Simon, do your Drake’s jeans have a similar fit to the jeans which Drake’s currently offer? If so, how different do you find them to Rubato’s jeans in terms of fit? Are they roomier around the hips and thighs?
Many thanks,
Jack
I haven’t tried the current Drake’s ones, but as far as I know they are the same. And yes, they are roomier in the hips and thighs, and then taper more
Thanks, Simon.
I’ve been a fan of tebas for quite a while. I think they clicked for me when I saw @g_tandre wear a Justo Jimeno model. And then I found the Armoury’s City Hunter in jersey, and The Anthology’s Lazyman (which Buzz says is not actually inspired by Teba jackets, but they hit the same notes for me). Yeah, they’re a cool option.
Nice reference Dan, thanks.
Yeah the Lazyman is strictly more of a chore, given the lapels and cut, but these are small differences
Hello Simon,
Is it current model of Drake’s ecru jeans, which you are wearing on the photographs? If so, does it have a leg twist or seams are rather straight?
It’s not the current season, no, so I don’t know how it compares precisely
Hi Simon, do you think the teba jacket in flannel cloth could be versatile? Or is it too fine for the casual jacket?
Many thanks,
Jack
It depends on the flannel really. A heavier, hairier Fox one would be great (as some of theirs are), but a finer flannel used for most tailoring would be a little smooth. If in doubt I’d go for something else
I see. Do you think this flannel from Fox would work, then?
https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/coats-jackets/products/fox-char-brown-classic-teba-jacket
Yes I think so. Mostly because I simply trust Fox on such decisions, because of their taste level. One more thing you get from a well-designed brand
Hi Simon, would 33oz overcoating cloth be too heavy for the teba jacket? As the heaviest weight I tried for the jacket or coat was 18oz, I can not imagine what 33oz would be like.
Many thanks,
Jack
Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy