Introducing: The Linen Harrington
I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes. It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer.
Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny collar, no pockets, and a slightly A-line body shape.
Then, last year, I picked up a vintage Harrington-style jacket from Levison’s. From what I can tell, this was made in the 1940s or 50s - not a G9, but English and with a wonderful roomy cut.
I wore it quite a bit last summer, but the cotton made it much more of a casual piece. So the thought occurred: what would a version be like in linen, like that old Hermes bomber? Would it be just as versatile, and pleasing if it had that classic blouson shape?
This led the team at Private White VC and myself down a rabbit hole of linens, zippers and back yokes, and eventually to the piece we’re launching today: the PS Linen Harrington. I have to say I’m very happy with it. I prefer it to both the vintage Harrington and the Hermes, and I think it’s more useful than both.
The linen is light - 270g - and so air passes through easily. On the couple of recent days when the temperature touched 20 degrees in London, I tried it and hardly felt like I was wearing an outer layer at all. I’m looking forward to wearing it when the heat is closer to 30.
On the back of the jacket, I was keen to keep the large, shaped back yoke of a traditional Harrington. It’s a nice detail, and rather flattering too - emphasising the width across the shoulders.
Of course, on those originals, the point of the yoke was the provide a double layer against the rain, when you were out on the fairway and caught in a downpour.
As this jacket was meant to be cool, we didn’t want two layers of linen there. So instead, we decided to leave a gap between the two parts of the back, held together at the points of the yoke.
This means not only that there is just a single layer of linen on the back, but that there are three small vents that can let a little air through, cooling the back even further.
This practicality had to be the most important thing of the design: it is made for the heat, and had to be effective.
But the aspect of the jacket I love most is the silhouette.
It is deliberately cut close at the waist. So when you try it on for the first time you may have to pull the two sides together slightly, to zip it up.
This is easy to do, because there are two panels of elastic at the back of the jacket (not all the way round - rather more elegant); and when it’s fastened, the tightness means that the waistband stays fixed on the hips, allowing the blouson-shape of the body to bloom above.
This is looks good to my eye, creating a larger upper body, and I love particularly how that looks with a pair of sharp trousers running straight down below.
But it’s also surprisingly cool. The closed waistband means you’re getting less airflow, but the blousy body moves and billows, pushing air around and through the linen.
That was one of the things that surprised me about that Hermes jacket, the first time I wore it.
This body shape is complimented, I think, by the zip and collar.
These were made deliberately so that front edge doesn’t collapse, but runs in a nice bow up the chest, and is held at the top by the double-layered collar.
This shape is what I always loved about a Harrington-style jacket, zipped perhaps a third of the way up. You can see how nice that is in suede too with the Purple Label jacket shown in the recent T-shirt shoot.
Of course, if it is too hot to keep the jacket closed, then you can leave it open, and even here I find the firm zip line helps the front look good.
The sleeves are also easy to fold back, so if you want to be even cooler and don’t mind that more casual look, you can wear it as I am below, with them rolled.
In summer, at least half the point of wearing a jacket like this is to have pockets, so we put two simple patches on either side of the chest.
They’re 11cm by 13cm, so will fit quite a lot of mobile phones and certainly a card wallet or similar. Anything bigger would have required not just the more material for the pocket, but also the facing, sacrificing the coolness a little too much. The contents also become disproportionately heavy.
The jacket has two hip pockets, but they’re made with the welt facing downwards, so they stay sharp and closed if not in use. This was originally done on golf jackets against the rain too, but I like the fact that the front looks that much cleaner - particularly on a jacket as dark and simple as this one.
Elsewhere there are details you’d expect on a PS piece, such as the two-hole, unpolished horn buttons used on the other PWVC collab coats. The RiRi zip is also deliberately small and elegant.
In order to demonstrate the versatility I mentioned earlier, I’ve shown the jacket with three different outfits, and different levels of smartness.
First with jeans, simple and casual. A white T-shirt, vintage seventies light-wash jeans, and black espadrilles.
The second still has a T-shirt, but it’s a knit from The Anthology, and the trousers are tailored brown linen, from Edward Sexton. The shoes are Sagans from Baudoin & Lange.
That second outfit is smarter but the colour palette, tonal and dark, is also perhaps more modern.
The last outfit (below) is more tailored: a blue linen shirt, high-twist trousers and still black shoes but with a welt to them. Here the Harrington is more a substitute for a navy blazer - and indeed would be a good travelling companion alongside a hopsack jacket.
If I could have shot one more, I would have shown the Harrington with shorts, as I used to wear the Hermes blouson - I’ve included an old picture of that lower down. I especially like that combination with a shirt, rather than a T-shirt.
I know some readers will ask how this jacket compares to the Linen Overshirt. I think, actually, they have pretty similar uses but just different styles.
The Harrington is arguably a touch more casual, because of its shape, and a better fit for jeans. But I think the overshirt is nice with jeans too. The overshirt is perhaps cooler because you’ll more likely wear it open; but actually its made with slightly heavier linen than the bomber, beause it needs it to retain shape.
The difference is more one of style. And just like you might have both a field jacket and a suede blouson for autumn, so both of these can work in the summer.
The Linen Harrington costs £495 plus VAT and is available on the PS shop here, now. Product details and sizing information below. Any questions, please do ask in the comments.
- Harrington-style jacket with zip front and button collar and cuffs
- 270g dark-navy linen
- Unpolished two-hole horn buttons, as preferred by me on Savile Row tailoring
- Slim RiRi zip made in Switzerland
- Jacket made in Manchester by Private White VC
- Two reverse-welt hip pockets and two internal, patch breast pockets
- Vents to allow air movement between back body and yoke
- Cost £495 plus VAT, ships from outside London
- In these images I am wearing a 4, which in Private White’s sizing system is equivalent to a medium
- I am six foot tall, with a 39-inch chest, 33-inch waist, and usually wear a size 40 jacket
- The jacket is intended to fit closely at the waist. When wearing, you will likely need to pull the elastic panels on the back to close the front. This is intentional, to keep the jacket in place
- Chest width is from 2.5cm below underarm
- Hem width is without using elastic - elastic adds up to 8cm
- Back length is from bottom of collar at back, down to hem
- Sleeve length is along top of whole raglan sleeve, plus cuff
|X-Small (2)||Small (3)||Medium (4)||Large (5)||X-Large (6)||XX-Large (7)|
Order placed! This looks great Simon; an elegant summer jacket.
Can i ask what options there are for casual summer trousers? Jeans and chinos tend to be abit heavier, while linen is a little smarter. I guess it’s a case of finding lighter-wight jeans/chinos? Many thanks.
Yes, lighter weight chinos are a good option. Also some linens will be rather more casual – lighter, often Italian ones. And linen/cotton mixes can be nice too, eg Casatlantic does a mix there that’s nice. Though it has a bit of a sheen that not everyone will like
Hi Simon, would you wear your Informale olive linen trousers with this jacket?
I find your look here quite subtle/sophisticated (navy and brown) and am thinking of pairing this jacket with the PS tapered t-shirt in navy and Informale’s chocolate linen trousers: https://informale.com.au/collections/trouser/products/t005-irish-linen-drawstring-trouser-chocolate
I suspect it would be touch more casual than what you show here, but do you think it would work? Many thanks.
I think that would be nice John, yes
Hi Simon, what would you think of wearing the Harrington with Rubatos brown chinos?
I think that would be nice Matt
Anglo-Italian’s twisted (low maintenance) Italian linen trousers should be ideal.
Looks a great piece Simon. Congratulations. I’m similar size to you in terms of height and waist but a 41in chest. I’ve got your wind walker in a PW 5 which is a tad roomy but fine with a layers. What size would you recommend?
I think you’d find something similar to the wax walker – the 4 will be a little tight on the chest, but the 5 will be good just a bit roomier. You might prefer the extra room for hotter weather so you get some nice airflow etc
Take note of the length of the sleeve which is much shorter by design than on the Wax Walker or other PS/PW outerwear. I’m a size 5 in all Private White and these sleeves come up an inch short on me. Not sure if that’s an issue for you but worth mentioning. I’d need at least a size 7 to get the sleeves to work for me but the waist is already too loose on the 5… it is a great piece, but not for me.
Interesting, thanks Lane. Yes, the sleeve is always going to be shorter because it is not designed to cover and protect a jacket or shirt underneath from the elements. Sorry if that means it doesn’t work on you
Thanks Simon. Was the intent to show a little shirt cuff then?
Not necessarily, but there was no need to have the sleeve so long that the cuff would not be exposed when you extended your arm. That’s often a factor with sleeve length on a coat – you want to be able to hold an umbrella, for example
Nice. What was the the rationale behind not using a two-way zip? I think a Harrington can look chic when it’s zipped at the middle, and is practical too allowing air in etc.
Personally I’m not so keen, as it’s a cut that’s so designed to be rooted at the bottom, on the waistband and sitting on the waist. I’d rather wear it zipped lower or undone. I like a two-way zip on something that is cut straight, like the wax walker or a trucker jacket style
I have several Harringtons from Baracuta (vintage), Grenfell, PWVC (ventile), Orvis (waxed cotton) and Anglo Italian (wool). A linen addition for the summer is therefore very appealing.
I’m concerned, however, about creases (especially getting them out) and cleaning. They are not discussed in the article or mentioned on the shop page.
Another possible issue is the navy linen fading, especially if worn on holiday in Southern Europe. Do you have plans to offer a lighter option, e.g. in natural or tan?
Thanks, pleased you like it.
It can be dry cleaned, and a steam would remove creases pretty easily. Though of course, being linen, some creasing is part of the charm too.
It shouldn’t fade, unlike cotton.
Very nice release Simon, I love it. This is much more appealing to me personally than recently trendy workwear and safari jackets. Unfortunately there is a similar navy jacket of good condition in my wardrobe already and I have too many navy bottoms at the moment to justify another. I second Gary, we need lighter colour option!
Hi Simon – an excellent entry into the list of jackets that answer ‘how can I look we’ll dressed and casual at the same time?’
I am interested in why you chose the stand collar rather than a point one – I assume it’s to nudge the jacket overall slightly more casual?
Yes exactly. I think it fits well with the overall blouson style which is that much sportier
I was disappointed to learn recently that Private White has closed it’s London shop. It’s particularly disappointing now you’ve got a new release, as I’m usually the sort of person who insists on trying on things before I buy them.
I will be coming to the pop-up in a few weeks, will this Harrington be there in all (the larger) sizes?
Yes it will Matt, in all sizes
Thanks Simon, good to know.
I couldn’t help but notice that the zip you’ve used in this Harrington isn’t PWVC’s usual bright brass(?) zip. I’m a little bit glad for that. I’ve been umm-ing and ah-ing over their usual bomber jackets because the zip is a little too prominent. I feel it undermines the versatility of them.
In fact I was wondering if you had an opinion on which of their bombers (including the button ones) would be the most versatile? Excluding your own of course.
I like the ventile, though obviously the cut is different to this and ideally I’d use this body shape and collar.
And yes, on the zip I wanted it to be subtler. Which is why there are no copper rivets on the back of the collar either
Thanks Simon. Will the PS Overshirt also be there?
Yes, not in all colours yet but there will at least be a sizes in one colour to try
In my opinion, the style, shape and sizing of this jacket in ventile would result in the perfect Harrington. Is it something that you have discussed with PWVC?
No to be honest, because there are other Ventile Harringtons out there. But it’s good to have the suggestion and vote of confidence, thanks
I think there was an issue with the lease, and understand they are looking for new premises.
Is this much different from the stock linen Harrington that PWVC make?
They don’t do one Goose?
They did last season. But it was not like this one I think from memory. More like ventile Harrington just in linen. So lined and much heavier, this lightweight design is very appealing. Nicely done and well timed!
Lovely jacket, I just wore my Harrington yesterday for the first time of the year.
Slightly off-topic, I really like the jeans you’re wearing, are those your vintage 501s?
What brands would you recommend for a similar cut and wash? I tried looking for vintage but couldn’t find anything that fitted properly.
Yes they are. Have a look at the piece in my anthology tweed jacket for a discussion about jeans in washes like that
Thanks for the reply.
Unfortunately I already read this article, but couldn’t find what I was looking for. My guess is to settle for a good top block and have the leg tapered.
Who would have thought that the simplest of clothes would be so dificult to find ?
Just thought of an alternative.
If I find jeans that fit me properly, but are in raw denim, is it possible that i wash them myself until they are a mid wash ?
I’m thinking letting them soak in water for long periodes of time, not turning them inside out to let the indigo bleed out as much as possible, multiple washes in a row, etc. ?
Is there a risk that it would alter the fit ?
It depends on the raw denim – it can’t be too dark to start with. But yes, over long periods they will fade more. It just might take years, not weeks.
It shouldn’t alter the fit after the first handful of washes
So I won’t achieve starting with raw denim the mid-wash look I’m looking for.
Any thoughts on Naked and Famous’ Unbranded Brand ?
No I’m afraid not. Other readers have said they like them, but my impression is they’re better than the mainstream without being at the level of the Japanese brands etc
Alright, thanks. Fortunately there are being retailed in Paris, I’ll have a look. Apparently they bleed indigo quite a lot, that’s annoying.
What about modern Levi’s 501 (not selvedge) ? I’m not a denimhead, I do not care if it is selvedge or not, just looking for that mid wash and mid/high rise tapered fit
You can easily stop the jeans bleeding by washing them earlier. And it sounds like that’s the look you want anyway.
I don’t know a Levi’s model I’d recommend, but you don’t have to be a denimhead to appreciate how better denim ages. It will be softer over time, look better and age better.
I understand if you don’t want to go down the non-Vintage prefaded route but The Armoury/Warehouse Co Jeans are a favorite of mine with a similar look and a wonder higher rise. https://thearmoury.com/collections/denim/products/5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=39524920590407
Thanks Caleb, yes I really liked the look of those – similar to my Full Count ones (prefaded) but with a better leg line. I tried their similar model at Clutch. Only issue with those is the length – there’s only one and it’s too short for me.
These look fantastic, but I’m quite tall and these look a bit short. What a shame !
Worth checking the length – the size makes them look a little shorter than they are
Being 1,87m tall, I need at least a 34′ lenght ; those are unfortunately shorter.
That’s only an inch taller than me. But it will depend on how high you wear your trousers as well
I would recommend Jeanericas TM005 cut then. Some of their washes (and cuts) are very fashion forward, but the TM005 has proven very versatile for me.
Will try on those, there are stockists in my town. Thanks !
I am a denimhead, sometimes near the point of obsession. I have an embarrassing number of different fits and styles mostly Japanese but others too including Armoury Denim, Drakes Denim, Blackhorse etc and most find a place in my wardrobe for certain styles and dress levels etc. Go to daily jeans are Orslow jeans, more ‘dressed up'(if thats possible for jeans) would be Armoury or drakes or maybe Blackhorse but for all my obsessive searching (including personal visits to Japan just for jeans) I find the best fit//wash that may suit (similar style to Simon’s) are Ralph Lauren RRL denim in the slim fit. I feel like I am cheating my obsession going to RRL but they are selvage denim, lots of choice and the leg shape is trim without being skinny.. Even today I have on a green pair which already some asked where they can get a pair. They are worth checking out and there seems to be an endless fade choice although I tend to buy one wash and just wear them. Good luck but be warned… these, so called ‘soft denim brands’ will only lead you to the hard stuff and addiction. Good luck shipmate.
Thanks, lots of informations here. I’ll go check RRL, availability i a real plus as I loke to try jeans on before buying them. Somehow I can never trust the size, I feel like I have a different jean size with every brand.
For what it’s worth PA, I find most the RRL range too slim and low rise (at least what we get here in the UK). There is a Vintage Five Pocket style that is a little higher, but usually there’s only one colour available in that
I know what you mean, I have one that’s too low rise, and too narrow on the thighs, while being too wide on the waist. I bought it because I loved the heavyweight selvedge but I should have known better.
Maybe I bought the wrong fit, I’m still going to try some just to be sure.
Where did you buy these?
I have been looking for a light wash denim with a medium rise, the closest thing I could find is the jeans from Anglo-Italian and Saman Amel. In terms of the Anglo-Italian jeans, I know you did a post on them, but I’m fearful they’ll be too slim. I have muscular legs and a large seat. Are there any other places you would recommend?
They were bought vintage in Japan. As per the comment above though, have a look at my piece on the Anthology jacket and double denim for a discussion of places to buy jeans in this vein.
Personally I don’t like the washes on the SA or Anglo ones because they’re more Italian style – see here for more on that. The Anglo ones are fairly roomy though, with quite a lot of taper.
Whilst I have never been a particular fan of Harrington style jackets, this one has me tempted. I think it’s usefulness for carrying stuff in hot weather is a good point. For me a crew neck T-shirt with shorts is ideal, possibly a lightly faded jean too in hot weather. I think creasing and further softening over time will only improve it. Not for me with anything more formal. Form and function coming nicely together. Well done.
All the best.
A few questions if I can indulge you.
1. It’s mostly about style and formality – wanting the style, wanting to look more dressed – and about practicality, having pockets. It won’t make you cooler than wearing a shirt. It is useful as a layer into evening, sure.
2. No, this is a slightly stiffer linen deliberately.
3. I think you’ll have to buy the Harrington sooner – about half the stock has gone in this first day. Sorry.
Very helpful, thank you.
The stiffer linen leading to fewer wrinkles has sold me on this Harrington in preference to the overshirt.
A very interesting piece since you dont find so many summer jackets and especialy so stylish ones. I think i like more the linen overshirt though. Will it also be available this year ?
Yes it will.
Nice looking jacket! I wonder why you opt for a one-way zipper instead of a two-way?
See above James – someone else asked that
Whilst not something I would wear, I really do like this and can imagine it being a very versatile addition to a spring/summer wardrobe.
looks nice, do you have anything else coming up in the next 6 months simon?
A few things yes. There was an email sent out to people on waiting lists – if you ask [email protected] they can get it to you
I’ve been waiting for news (and no rush really, just excited) on the Donegal Overcoat pre-order, I haven’t missed it I hope?
Nope. Email going out to everyone on the list about that in a few days
Beautifully shaped jacket! Niche question alert (hey, it’s PS right?) but what’s your theory on jeans/chinos turn ups Simon? I feel like you typically go for the ‘deep-ish half turn’ as shown on the Levi’s here? Do you ever do a double turn, or hem to the appropriate length?
Yeah niche, but worth asking!
I’m basically happy with most things, from 1 to 5cm, whatever the jeans need, particularly if I’m getting old ones. And a double turn if they need that too, because it would be too big otherwise.
With chinos I do something closer to a tailoring turn up of 4 or 5cm, but often going off the seam
Simon, do you think this design works for heavier-set men carrying weight around the waist and hips?
I think so, yes. A large body shape in a jacket like this is very forgiving.
Lovely jacket-I do love a nice Harrington, especially one which invokes its golfing roots.
Sadly, I have a navy unlined Harrington, but would just add my voice to those interested , if you ever release a stone/khaki/natural version.
I hope it sells well.
This is a beautiful jacket! I have the Baracuta G9 in navy, but a linen Harrington is another matter.
For comparison, how much was the original linen blouson from Hermes?
I assume it was a fair deal more expensive.
Yep, £1900… It would be even more today
This looks great, Simon. Terrific concept. One concern I have with Harrington jackets is that the collar can look a little strange on me. Perhaps because I’m on the lanky side, I like V-shaped collars (like those on the PS Overshirts) that give me much-needed breadth. Harrington collars, by contrast, face inward rather than outward and so look less flattering (at least on me). For that reason, I think I prefer something like The Armoury’s 3PB in linen, because of that elegant, outward-facing, V-shaped collar that frames the face and adds breadth. Does that make sense, and do you see a Harrington-style collar as less flattering than a V-shaped one?
It does make sense, and I can see that if the collar were quite closed or the jacket worn quite zipped up. But if it’s open at all, this rolls outwards nicely. And the height frames a taller person or longer face really well. Also, keep in mind that you’re not always looking straight from the front, from three quarters, the side etc, and a collar like this sits nicely around the face from those aspects as well
Great points, very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks Simon, was keen to find a great linen jacket since your summer capsule article from years ago where you wore that Hermes bomber.
Curious, you mentioned that you “used” to have that Hermes jacket … do you no longer have it?
No, I sold it on. It was too slim, and things annoyed me like the collar and lack of pockets. I far prefer this one
While we’re discussing the Hermes model, curious about two changes that weren’t highlights in the article:
1. Decision to go with raglan sleeves as opposed to a conventional set-in sleeve?
2. Button cuffs instead of elastic cuffs
On the second point, I’m guessing this allows for a smarter, more intentional folded sleeve look as opposed to pulling up elastic cuffs. However, the smarter folded sleeve look feels to run counter to the more sporty look of the raglan shoulder. Would appreciate your design thoughts here, thank you!
Sure Ahmed. Both were driven by that old vintage Harrington. I liked the particular look and angle of the raglan sleeve, and the arrangement of the button cuff.
Also to be honest an elastic cuff would feel a little cheap to me, rather than just casual.
You can see that in the two Baracuta models. The G4 is without the ribbing, and I think hangs slightly better. The G9 has that tightness around the cuffs and waist which is great for Scooter Boys! I also think the zipped waist pockets, of the PS model, give a smarter profile
It seems to me that button cuffs give more aeration, air movement and will be cooler than elastic cuffs.
This is the first linen bomber I’ve seen. It’s an interesting style and looks thoughtfully designed and well made. I guess I don’t understand the point of a casual summer jacket. A linen blazer gets you into restaurants with a dress code, but a 30C stroll through town in a bomber seems a bit foppish.
I don’t think most people would wear a linen blazer most of the time Ben, even if you would.
I don’t know, I think Ben raises a good question: Why design a “jacket,” which is generally designed to keep one warm, for 30C weather? I think the answer that most PS readers would agree on is: adding a jacket, or some kind of “third piece,” to a shirt/trousers outfit tends to elevate it. It looks better and adds depth and sophistication. Adding a third piece becomes trickier in warm weather. This Harrington is designed to fill that gap: to provide a casual-elegant “third piece” fit for warm weather. That’s why I’d buy it, anyway. (Was that enough colons for a short PS comment?)
No, I want more colons.
Such a dark blue(navy) color will attract the sun’s rays and heat and cause overheating at +30.
I don’t think so – I regularly wear navy tailoring in high heat and notice no difference between that and something paler. It might make a difference, but it’s a small one. And the style would be very different in something very pale
I like wearing a jacket or vest in all but the hottest of days so as to avoid stuffing my bulky iPhone, wallet, and keys into my trouser pockets.
In the autumn, I use quilted vests for this purpose if it’s not that cold and I don’t want to wear jacket. Unfortunately, there’s no summer equivalent. So something like this might do the trick. I already have a line. Jacket, but it’s lined, and not quite cool enough for this purpose. So I just put an order in 🙂
Agree with all this. Enjoy the jacket!
I’d wear a blazer if the setting calls for it. Otherwise I wouldn’t bother with any jacket in the summer: foppish.
Fair enough. As another reader has commented, I always like that outer layer – both for practicality and style – if I can.
I can see myself wearing it in hotter climates but would it be right to say it’s too lightweight to act as my regular jacket in London throughout Spring and Summer ie from now?
That’s a nice piece. The ‘flap’ and venting at the back remind me (in a good way) of the old splashtops I used to wear when I was rowing. The point was the same – to allow coverage and airflow. The picture where you have your back to the camera really reminds me of that. Then the elastic towards the waist is similar to what a lot of the cycling kit manufacturers are doing now, so a piece stays snug at the waist and doesn’t ride up, but without being constricting in the upper body. So there are some subtle ‘sportswear’ features here in a jacket that doesn’t look like sportswear. Nicely done.
Interesting jacket. How would it fair if it were to get wet under a downpour ?
Would it be ok to iron and steam it (with the iron) at home ?
Yes, it would do fine – I’d start with just steaming and see if that would do it, but otherwise ironing too, just making sure not to create creases by running to the edges (eg on the sleeve)
Regarding sizing, it’s difficult to decide between 3 and 4. I have the PS Donegal coat in size 3 (size 4 was too big), as well as other PVVC garments (field jacket, roll neck, Frobisher parka). However I do have their mac on size 4. Do you always wear their garments In size 4 Simon? Would sizing up here make sense ?
I always wear a 4, yes. I wouldn’t size up unless something in the measurements looks way off what you’d normally wear.
Obviously good to compare it to something you already have if there’s anything suitable. (Short jacket, blouson/bomber style)
The PVVC Ventile Harrington (a jacket I’ve tried) seems to have a much wider chest (your size 4 has the same measurements as their size 3) or is this because your chest measurements are “2.5cm below underarm”?
No I think there’s is bigger there – also a thicker material, which makes a small difference
Makes it harder to decide on sizing then. Should I go with 4 which is similar to the chest size of the PVVC Harrington jacket or 3 which is my usual PVVC size? I am planning to visit the pop-up shop but perhaps by then it’ll be too late.
Don’t go on what’s your usual size – go on the measurements
The timing of this is, for me, uncanny.
Firstly, I’ve been in the market for a lightweight jacket that is suitable for California’s spring and early fall seasons (summer is almost always too hot for a jacket, even in the evening). Breathability, ease of rolling up the sleeves, etc., are all important qualifications.
Secondly, I’ve been asking myself “what is the casual equivalent of a navy blazer?”. In other words, what is a casual jacket that can work in just about any scenario, from t-shirt and shorts all the way up to business casual. My tentative conclusion was that blousons/bomber style jackets are probably the closest. On the one had they are clearly not a tailored jacket, but the clean simplicity of their appearance makes it easy to layer them over just about anything. I’ve also tried chore coats, knit blazers, overshirts, field jackets, etc. I’d be very interested to hear your thoughts on the question.
Simon, I know it says dry clean, but how do you feel about handwashing this jacket? Probably my biggest reservation for getting anything meant to be worn casually is if it is dry clean only.
I’d say the closest was this or an overshirt, personally.
On dry cleaning, I wouldn’t hand wash it Ross, but you won’t have to clean it very often. It’s a jacket, not a shirt. And it’s not close under your arms (like an overshirt might be) so you’re not going to be sweating through it much. Though I know that is a bit personal and varies between people.
> I’d say the closest was this or an overshirt, personally.
I would agree. I have a navy seersucker safari-style overshirt from Ring Jacket. It’s fine garment and gets a fair bit of use, but it’s a tad smart and unusual – something like the brown linen overshirt from your shop would be a bit easier to wear in a casual setting.
> On dry cleaning, I wouldn’t hand wash it Ross, but you won’t have to clean it very often. It’s a jacket, not a shirt.
Good afternoon..impressive looking jacket…good luck and much success….it will sell quite well..peace
Hi Simon. Has your view on having both jacket and trousers in linen, you argued against some time ago, changed? Your outfit with brown linen trousers led me to ask about this. Thank you.
Good point. I think it’s much more of a risk with a tailored jacket and trousers, because the styles/formality are more similar. It is more at risk at looking like mismatched parts of a suit.
But also, any risk is substantially reduced by the two being rather different weights, and so having a different texture/look to each other. That’s the case here too.
Another superb, well judged piece.
Q1. What size do you think I would take?
Q2. Are you likely to restock this in the future or offer it on a pre order basis as has/is happened/happening with other products? Perhaps next summer?
I ask only because I have been pushing (blowing actually) the clothing expenditure for the last seven months or so (insert hand on face emoji).
So, for this summer at least it’s a choice between this and two or three of the overshirts.
1 – I’m afraid I don’t remember anything about your sizing, sorry
2 – Yes we will restock it
Thanks for the response.
I know we bumped into each other recently but I didn’t expect you to magically know my sizing having seen me in person (sorry if it came across as if I were expecting that 😬.
I realised after reading your response I had actually omitted to mention my sizing– I was slightly distracted by my younger Daughter trying to get my attention. 😊
I have taken in all the previous PS/PWVC collabs a size 2. And usually a size 36 in a regular off the peg (non slim fit) jacket.
Not sure if this helps?
I’d suggest a size 2 again then, but also recommend checking the measurements against a short jacket you already own, to be sure
Brilliant. Thanks Simon.
When you say there will likely be a restock, would you estimate that occurring this year–or did you mean next year? Thanks.
Next year, sorry. Private White will probably have some soon though
I am a huge proponent of the G4 and G9. I really like your interpretation as well. I would really hope you consider adding a double zipper to future versions. It is something I personally use every time I wear my Baracuta jackets. It makes sitting much more comfortable and appear more flattering. I dislike the bellowed look as it makes the body appear bulbous. At least having the option unzipping from the bottom would be a nice feature.
Thanks David. As mentioned in comments above, that bellowed look is what I love and what I was going for here. Sounds like it’s probably not for you in that respect
Interestingly I saw from the comments that some people dislike the copper zip PWVC typically use – I’m the opposite (in fact, I’ve already asked if they could replace the zip; no was the answer).
I’ve got an old Armani linen harrington (don’t judge! It started off sky blue but I died it navy in the washing machine years ago and it still looks great) that this would happily replace; but also your LA Linen overshirt, again in navy.
I understand the overshirts will come back into stock at some point, and am looking at the brown; but are there any plans to bring this harrington out in other colours in the future? Brown? An olive would be fantastic to pair with creams. Perhaps even a black? That could look nice with the slight sheen linen can sometimes develop yet still with all its translucent qualities ..
Just asking to try and get my purchases planned in advance…
Thanks Ant, and all really good to know.
We might look at another colour, but that would be a year from now
Any updates on new colours for 23?
It will just be navy still Torjus, we have a lot of built up demand for that
That’s a beautiful piece of garment. May I ask if I’m primarily pairing it with shorts, would you choose the harrington or the overshirt? I suppose I’ll mostly wear it indoor during summer when the air-con’s blasting. Usually pairing polo shit or hawaiian shirt and loafer with shorts. I’ve always been unable to pick out a jacket that would suit summer outfit like that. Thanks!
If it’s mostly indoor then I’d go with the overshirt
I just put an order in!
When it’s hot outside, I really don’t like having to cram bulky iPhone Max, a wallet or money clip, and keys in my trouser pockets. I have a vest that I wear from time to time, but it’s not particularly dressy. And I have a linen jacket, but it’s not quite cool enough. Hopefully this will do the trick!
If the wax walker in size 4 was just right, but the private white pea coat in 4 was tight in the chest, would you recommend the size 4 or 5 in the Harrington?
Probably the 4. As always, check the measurements against a similar short jacket if you can though. It’s such a good way to double check
Simon, I’m interested in the Hermes piece. More precisely: in the moment you’ve discarded of it. When do you decide enough is enough? A tear could be an easy marker, and of course is no one criterion, but I assume you have a few examples to lay out your agenda on this issue. I recall some mentions of size pushing you to give things away after a few tears. Probably some insights about materials and construction here. Perhaps a piece sometime in the future?
Sure, good idea OP. Size is a factor, true, though here it was the fact that I just found I didn’t wear it all one summer, because I preferred other things. I think a garment should really have two years maximum like that before you give it away
As always this is brilliant mate, cheers! Needed something casual other than safari style linen offerings.
This is a great example of PS expanding my horizons. I don’t think I’ve ever looked at a Harrington before and gone “that’s my style” Maybe it’s that it is in linen that does it.
I’ve always struggled for jackets in the warmer months where blazer is too much. Have I missed the boat on these or will there be more stock at some point?
We won’t have more stock, but Private White should have some soon
Hi Simon, I am new to this site but thoroughly enjoy it. Thankyou. A quick question please. In the last week or so you have uploaded a photo of yourself wearing the blue linen Harrington with brown linen/silk trousers. Whilst I love the Harrington my question is really about the trousers. I am presuming these to be the same fabric and colourway that you were wearing in your ‘A Hot Summer Evening in Florence’ article from 2015. The trousers were from Panta Clothing I believe. I am having no luck contacting them to source this fabric as I would love a pair in this fabric and colourway for myself. I reside in Sydney for much of the summer and this would be a wonderful useful sartorial item to have on hand. I return to Europe often so any suggestions as to where I might still locate this fabric same would be truly appreciated. With thanks and again – brilliant website. Mark.
I’m really pleased you’re enjoying it. Do feel free to ask any questions such as this, when they arise.
Those trousers weren’t the Panta ones I’m afraid, they were the bottom half of this Sexton suit – pure linen.
I’m not sure I’d recommend that material for trousers either, it didn’t really age that well.
Thanks Simon. Appreciate the feedback on this. Will see where we go from here but the look is too good in my view not to keep pursuing. Best. M.
Dear Simon, it would be interesting to know how the price for this beautiful jacket came about. Here, in particular, in comparison to the PS Overshirt. I am not implying that the Harrington is too expensive. May question is rather about understanding the factors that drive the price, which I think would be helpful for other readers as well. Thank you.
Most of the time, Peter, it’s a simple question of how much it costs to make – so how much we pay PWVC, including the materials and hardware etc they buy – and then a multiple that we know works for our type of business, delivering good value but also covering all the costs of free returns, people, pop-ups etc etc.
The price difference between this and the overshirt is nearly all a reflection of how much more it takes to make it.
Hi Simon! Slightly tangential question but I really love the look of the beige/taupe high-twist trousers in one of the shots above. Would you be able to share what the cloth is on these?
Of course – it’s the 2-ply from Drapers, the bottom half of this suit
Thanks a lot Simon! It’s an interesting colour, mid grey to light beige, probably aided by the light and the image processing. More broadly, would you have any recommendations for a high-twist cloth in cream? I’ve been trying to find a smarter alternative to linen for the summer to wear with odd jackets but to no avail. Not sure if I’m looking at the wrong place altogether so I’d be really glad to get your advice.
Yes, and I think that’s accurate on the colour – it’s a grey but with a brown or beige tone to it.
I personally don’t like high-twist in cream that much. I’d stick with pale greys
Hi Simon. Great work! Really like the jacket, especially the choice on navy linen. This leads to me think whether indigo blue wool silk linen from loro piana could be a nice alternative (great texture but wrinkles less), or do you think that the fabric is just too formal in nature? Cheers.
I think that would be a little formal for a jacket like this, yes. Bit too shiny
What are the trousers shown here Simon? They look a good option for cold brown summer linen
They’re from this suit
Hi Simon, great garment, is it Solbiati linen 270g? Regards
I’ll have to double check the weight, but it is Solbiati – not one that’s available by the cut length though I’m afraid
Thank you, well noted. Would you recommend such a light weight linen also for travellers jacket?
What do you mean by a travellers jacket exactly?
As a belted safari jacket with 4 pockets
In that case no, I would go with a heavier linen myself
Classic mistake of only a one way zip. That’s a deal breaker.
I disagree Charlie, as mentioned several times in the comments above. But each to his own
Hi Simon, I got a size 4 for the jacket, and it fits me well except for the length of the sleeves, which is always the problem for me when I buy RTW jackets/shirts. I think they are 1-1.5cm long for me when I button them. Would you recommend doing alterations, or should I leave them?
I think it’s up to you really Jack – how much you mind the look or it bothers you
If you are unsure, you can always try to tighten the sleeve area around your wrist by repositioning/resewing the button. Its a simple fix.
I usually prefer this to shortening the sleeve (which is a permanent change) on shirts/overshirts and you can always undo it later if you do not like it.
The end result would be that the sleeve does not go beyond your wrist and at the same time it does not pull back too far over your forearms when you stretch your arms.
I decided that today was the first day of summer and wore my linen harrington. I love it.
It has shown up the limitations of RTW though, for despite the amount of thought that Simon has put into the jacket, to get my chest size I ended up with a waist size that was far too big to give the silhouette that Simon intended. Effectively, as delivered, my jacket hung straight down and was loose over my hips. I fixed this with some darts at the waistline where the elastic meets the plain fabric. Not perfect, but not anywhere that anybody is going to be looking.
Simon: if you consider doing another run of these, something in the green-olive-brown range will see me a repeat customer.
OK thanks, good to know, and interesting to hear on the sizing
Hi Simon, i have a size 4 PS Harrington waiting for me at home in Singapore; i am currently stuck in the Shanghai lockdown.
This comment has me a little worried, in terms of the waist possibly being too large. I am a size 32 waist (to give a common reference point, i have last year’s PS shorts in size 48/medium, the same as you i believe; they are a good fit, possibly slightly loose, but not enough to take them in at the waist), so slightly smaller than you. Do you think i will have any issue with this?
Or perhaps a fairer question; if you were an inch or so thinner in the waist do you think you would have a problem with the elasticated hem dropping below the hips?
No I don’t think I would John – the waist is deliberately quite tight, so I think it should be fine
Thanks Simon, that’s reassuring. Can’t wait to be united with my jacket!
A brief follow-up to say I had the pleasure of wearing this jacket for the first time today. Indeed, no issues with the waist size, and it really is a pleasure to wear. In particular, it’s elegant and unique, and is different to what most people are wearing. A superb piece!
Wonderful, thank you!
Simon, I received this jacket and just want to compliment you on it. Beautifully designed and made. As someone who splits my time between warm climates (I’m in Hawaii right now), I’m going to get a lot of wear out of it. It is the ideal dress up/down multipurpose summer jacket.
Some sizing details if it helps other buyers … I’m a similar build to Simon but a little smaller all round – 5’10, 155lbs, 38″ chest, 31″ waist. I purchased the linen Harrington in size 3, which is my PWVC moleskin bomber size.
Judging by the photos above, I fill out a 3 just a little more than you do a 4 (I have a narrow waist, but broad shoulders) but based on past experience with PWVC, the blouson effect would be too extreme around the middle if I sized up. Plus I’ve noticed with a little wear there is a small amount of give in this linen, so I expect it might mould somewhat over time.
I definitely have to pull the elastic waist bands to zip, and the sleeves are a tad shorter than expected, but it all works, looks incredibly stylish and is perfectly comfortable. The collar on this sits a lot better than my standard PWVC Harrington, which somehow looks too heavy in comparison. Also great decision to not use copper detailing. It would have been overkill on this jacket. I hope PWVC takes note and offers more jackets without it.
Fantastic, thanks for the feedback and letting me know Paul
I would have had the collar done bigger more like a 70s Harrington collar and a v on the back instead of just a line going across . I like the colour . We’ve just brought out leather Harrington’s with this collar and it looks great
I’m contemplating buying this jacket but would appreciate knowing whether there will be changes made to this piece or new colors introduced this spring/summer? Many thanks.
It will be reintroduced, but no new colours
Hey Simon, I’ve been looking for a jacket like this for years – I feel naked without a jacket, but Sydney’s summer heat and humidity make it really difficult. Can’t wait until this arrives, wish I’d seen your post when you first made it.
Amazing, so pleased to hear it Josh
I’m on the shorter side (5’9) and I’m concerned about the length of this jacket. Do you think the body length could be tailored?
Not really, no, the ribbing would be difficult to get off and on again. Or at least, it would be a big job
I just purchased the jacket, and have been very excited about it, but I’m a little concerned about the fit. When I attempt to wear it in quarter zip fashion, as you did in most of the pictures, it feels like it is a bit too close to my body and the top of the jacket projects out in an odd way.
I’m 5’9 with broad should and I usually fit a medium. Do you recommend I size up? I’m a little concerned that if I size up the jacket will be too long.
When you say too long Michael, do you mean with the jacket closed at the bottom? If you do, then that should never be an issue, as the waistband should be tight on the waistband of your trousers, and then the body fold over the top of it.
It sounds like it might be worth you trying you a large, if that’s the length issue you’re concerned about.
Yes, exactly I’m concerned about the body of the jacket being too long.
OK, well I would try the size up then, and make sure when zipped up, that the jacket hem still sits on the waistband of your trousers, so material can flop over the top if required