Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb

June 26th 2024

Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...

Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb

Match in comments:
If you don't have anything like this already, I might go for the W Bill, Flynn. My only concern is the jacket working well on its own, so maybe have it in the most casual make you can...

Style - SuitsJune 26th 2024

Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update

May 22nd 2024

The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...

Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update

Match in comments:
I’ve written before that eccentrics, bohemians and artists will start using ties as soon as businessmen are abandoning them. It’s the circle of life. This is Bruce Springsteen in Stockholm yesterday, sort of proving ...

Jackets - KnitwearMay 22nd 2024

How to pack for a three-day trip: Video

March 4th 2024

The ' travel capsule' posts we've done are always popular - I think because they are useful for actual travel, but also for anyone looking to build a versatile wardrobe in general. In that way they're one more addition to the 'wardrobe building' ser...

How to pack for a three-day trip: Video

Match in comments:
I did one on travelling to Japan in the summer here that you might find useful. Also if you search for the 'holiday snaps' articles you'll find lots of actual holiday clothes....

Bags - VideoMarch 4th 2024

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

February 19th 2024

At Pitti Uomo back in January I took the opportunity to wear mostly tailoring and ties - the two outfits shown above and below. And it felt great. I know there are traditionalists who see me as the antithesis of this, as I’m rarely pictured w...

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

Match in comments:
Green is just a nice colour with both brown and pink. I don't think there are rules there really Jack, you just learn what colours you like together. A less noticeable colour would be different, subtler, but both would l...

TiesFebruary 19th 2024

My case for the lightweight English jacket

February 9th 2024

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the ...

My case for the lightweight English jacket

Match in comments:
Thanks Paul. Yes I can see that would work for comments at a bigger scale, or if I weren't going through each one personally...

JacketsFebruary 9th 2024

Reader profile: Sebastian

November 24th 2023

Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...

Reader profile: Sebastian

Match in comments:
Saman Amel does. P Johnson for some things...

Coats - JacketsNovember 24th 2023

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

April 12th 2023

Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

Match in comments:
Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...

Knitwear - SuitsApril 12th 2023

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

January 18th 2023

Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

Match in comments:
Not much I'm afraid Jerry. While I know them a little, I've never had anything made or had a reason to go in...

January 18th 2023

Wearing all black

August 12th 2022

I’ve been playing around with black so much in recent years (note, this is classic menswear - it’s years/decades, not weeks/months) that I thought I’d try out wearing nothing but black. This was during Pitti at Florence, on a rela...

Wearing all black

Match in comments:
Yes. I'd prefer an opera pump if I had one, but I'd certainly wear them if I didn't...

Style - WatchesAugust 12th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...

July 15th 2022

by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...

Match in comments:
Hi There, Just seen this - really interesting. One small point - stiff collars are not really an affectation at Ascot... and there is a trick to attaching them with a tie easily. Simply loop your tie into the collar and ...

SuitsJuly 15th 2022

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

Match in comments:
I don't think I'd worry on the coolness point, as it is so lightweight, but yes I think you'll find the trousers too flimsy to get long-term wear out of. Sorry, it otherwise sounded like a great plan!...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make

June 6th 2022

By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...

The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make

Match in comments:
Aleks is correct. Plain grey trousers aren't part of the traditional morning coat outfit. If you wore plain grey trousers with a morning coat to a wedding then people who care about classic menswear would notice this, an...

SuitsJune 6th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

May 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Match in comments:
I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...

Jackets - SuitsMay 16th 2022

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

March 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

Match in comments:
It is a little higher, but the same issue is there, it's not as big or as structured as a shrit collar, so is never going to behave in the same way...

Knitwear - StyleMarch 9th 2022

Why I’m wearing more belts

January 5th 2022

In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all. I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors. And I didn’t even wear the...

Why I’m wearing more belts

Match in comments:
I did, yes...

Belts and wallets - StyleJanuary 5th 2022

How my jacket style has changed

November 12th 2021

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered , using my Chittleborough &...

How my jacket style has changed

Match in comments:
Hey Jack, I would imagine it would be largely differences in body proportion then - I assume you've seen the video on how you can assess jacket length?...

November 12th 2021

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

September 29th 2021

  Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even lu...

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

Match in comments:
Probably dark brown and washed navy, but I'm not sure I'd go much beyond the ones you have, to be honest Stephan. You don't need that many. I'd see chinos as more a base for more interesting things to work around, with t...

Casual clothing - TrousersSeptember 29th 2021

Matching checks on a jacket

September 10th 2021

Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...

Matching checks on a jacket

Match in comments:
Good question, I'm not sure actually. I think that would be the starting point, the placement the tailor would start with. But it might not be possible, perhaps, if the customer was stooped, so the back had to be rather ...

JacketsSeptember 10th 2021

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

August 25th 2021

Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...

Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid

Match in comments:
Thanks Leif, the material is coming back into stock this summer, for autumn/winter jackets...

ClothAugust 25th 2021

Layering and accessories for cold Spring days

May 7th 2021

Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...

Layering and accessories for cold Spring days

Match in comments:
I don't think so, no. Though it's also one to think yourself - if you saw someone wearing one around where you are, would it look odd to you?...

StyleMay 7th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

April 9th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

Match in comments:
I am aware everything has become quite quickly expensive over the past few years but their offshore suit now starts from around £3,200 which in my opinion is a massive jump in two years. I wasn’t really sceptical abou...

Cloth - SuitsApril 9th 2021

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

March 8th 2021

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

Match in comments:
If that's the starting price, yes I'd still say they are good value. I don't think you can find an English-cut suit at that kind of price and quality elsewhere. You can certainly get good value elsewhere, eg WW Chan in H...

TrousersMarch 8th 2021

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

December 11th 2020

The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

Match in comments:
I'm not a big pleats fan period, but I would not have them here particularly, as you say because of the weight and thickness of the cord. A lighter, thinner cord might be OK...

TrousersDecember 11th 2020

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

March 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

Match in comments:
I'm afraid it's one of those late nights of fretting over what to wear for event again, Simon. The idea of a T-shirt under a shirt peaked my interest as a potential de-formaliser. One google search later and I find mysel...

Casual clothingMarch 18th 2020

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

January 27th 2020

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

Match in comments:
If you like the style and nothing else really works in the same way, then yes I think it's good. I'd go for wool I think. I'm not sure you'd notice much difference for 500 extra...

CoatsJanuary 27th 2020