Introducing: The white PS Oxford

January 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

Match in comments:
No, we never did a full review piece. I wear it with neutrals mostly - charcoal, black, cream, a pale beige. Brown and navy can work but they both have to be really dark...

ShirtsJanuary 13th 2020

Wearing navy trousers as separates

December 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

Match in comments:
It certainly did, yes. To work with that camel jacket it would help if the navy was very dark, as it is there if indeed it's not black. Camel could work but it would be easier with some blue in the shirt perhaps, or anot...

Style - TrousersDecember 20th 2019

PS shirts available to try in Prologue, Stefano B...

May 21st 2019

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts and polo shirts. Last year, St...

PS shirts available to try in Prologue, Stefano B...

Match in comments:
Yes, to try on...

May 21st 2019

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

April 1st 2019

This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, in that there’s no jacke...

A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown

Match in comments:
I think that sounds very nice, yes. I would say it would be great to have a similar piece to take to the tailor for inspiration, as it rarely works out perfectly if you ask them to try and design something with just a fe...

StyleApril 1st 2019

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

February 8th 2019

The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...

Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth

Match in comments:
Cheers Will...

ShirtsFebruary 8th 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

January 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on th...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Match in comments:
Cheers Hugh...

CoatsJanuary 16th 2019

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong ...

May 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and th...

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong ...

Match in comments:
Ideal would be a little less strong in colour, but it will work...

Belts and wallets - JacketsMay 21st 2018

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

May 4th 2018

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

Match in comments:
I do, yes. Though in terms of being able to wash it that way, bear in mind it won't just be a question of the main material - it may also be any fusing or other structural pieces on the inside of any jacket...

Casual clothing - KnitwearMay 4th 2018

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...

April 30th 2018

One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser opening or bottom, at the kne...

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...

Match in comments:
I also have the same issue but if you shorten the back rise, it would help significantly. My bespoke trousers' back rise is nearly the same as the front rise....

TrousersApril 30th 2018

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

April 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

Match in comments:
Well I'd hope it's not a question of fashions. Yes those are still great, though personally I prefer the Ascot bunch from Drapers, probably the four ply...

TrousersApril 18th 2018

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

February 9th 2018

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean house B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end result isn’t too bad (just...

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

Match in comments:
This oatmeal tweed with a black roper? I'm not sure to be honest, that would create quite a lot of contrast between shirt and jacket. Is it a combination you've seen work elsewhere?...

JacketsFebruary 9th 2018

The perfect wedding suit

May 22nd 2017

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver’s wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman’s outfit. First, the colour. P...

The perfect wedding suit

Match in comments:
No, Glyndebourne is wonderful and in that context of course it all looks fitting. But that is a very specific context...

Style - WeddingsMay 22nd 2017

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

January 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smarter, more important and more f...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

Match in comments:
I wore my Cleverley imitation brogues. I don't think there's anything wrong with Oliver's trousers - they are just breaking a bit more at the front as a result of how he is standing. I also wouldn't go with turn-ups, bot...

Black tieJanuary 26th 2017

Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons should I have on a single-bre...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Match in comments:
Really? Interesting, it might be my memory but I can't remember anyone I've worked with saying that...

SuitsMay 27th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

March 29th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks – in New York for three days and then Los Angeles for one. The ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

Match in comments:
Oh good...

March 29th 2016

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...

February 24th 2016

Air force blue is a beautiful colour. Better than the bright, tonic blues that are so popular these days – so much deeper, so much more subtle. Also known as RAF blue, the colour refers to the uniforms issued to the Royal Air Force when...

Air force (RAF) blue flannel suit: Whitcomb &...

Match in comments:
Probably not, people will argue about anything! But I don't think that's really the point - pick the colour you like, not the one that's exactly the same as an RAF uniform...

Style - SuitsFebruary 24th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and the...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – gr...

Match in comments:
From what I've seen of the Huntsman service it's good, but it is expensive for what it is. I think you'll be absolutely fine if that's what you want. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give yo...

SuitsFebruary 10th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

December 11th 2015

I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me two suits – on...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

Match in comments:
Maintained their quality...

December 11th 2015

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

October 19th 2015

If you’re looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren’t many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. An interesting ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

Match in comments:
They would certainly do a good job, yes...

October 19th 2015