It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver’s wedding last year.

He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman’s outfit.

First, the colour. Pale grey is suitably serious – being plain and monotone – that it befits the formality of almost any wedding.

(And remember this is an important event, and therefore to at least some extent serious.)

But, the grey is pale enough that there is no chance it could be mistaken for a business suit. Mid-grey and darker, yes. Pale grey, no.

Second, the style. A double-breasted jacket is slightly unusual, but only slightly.

That means it’s unlikely anyone else will be wearing the same thing; you will feel satisfyingly stylish, and sartorial; and you’ll stand out without resorting to bright colours or a silly waistcoat.

A double-breasted pale-grey suit also stands a slight chance of being worn again – which is understandably a desire for most grooms, given it may be their most expensive piece of tailoring.

You’re unlikely to wear it to the office, but it would be good for any other formal day event.

If you want something more office-suitable, make it a mid-grey, and/or single breasted.

Third, the shirt. Only white will do really, being more formal than blue or any pattern.

But take the opportunity to wear one with double cuffs, so you can have cufflinks. There may even be an old family pair that would bring a sense of tradition.

Fourth, the tie. A small black-and-white check is a traditional pattern for a wedding tie, for formal for similar reasons to the rest of this outfit: it is monotone and discreet.

Styles similar to this are often called a Macclesfield (the British home of silk).

The shoes have to be black oxford – the most formal colour, and the most formal style. 

You could get away with a very dark brown, if black shoes are just too office-y, but black suits the refined elegance best.

Plus a white-linen handkerchief. 

The only thing I’d personally change from Oliver’s outfit is a smaller boutonniere, inserted through the buttonhole.

But that can be specific to the event: remember, this is no way your day; it is your bride’s. You are merely elegant support, which is another reason a subtle and refined outfit works so well.

The suit, by the way, was made bespoke by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Smith Woollens, Gilt Edge range (SW 6114), 8/9 oz pure merino. 

Double-breasted jackets are so hard to fit well off the rack, and so are another reason to have one made for a wedding.

This also fits beautifully – snug at the neck and through the top of the back, smooth drape through the chest, and a lovely pitch on the sleeve. 

The tie was from Tom Ford, shirt from Eton, and shoes from Foster and Son (ready to wear). 

I’d recommend it to grooms everywhere. 

Photography: Graham Warrellow

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Néstor Valiño

I like everything about the outfit. Fit is very good, too.


If only this post had arrived in January — I’m into my third fitting for my wedding suit, however will take on board the shirt/tie and shoe suggestions. White was always gone to be my choice of shirt colour, but was considering a silk knit tie and a pair of Edward Green Audley monks; would both be considered too informal for the occasion?


Lovely suit but a shame he is wearing his flower incorrectly.

Nick Inkster

A very nice looking suit, although I would have perhaps gone a tad longer in the coat.
Do you know if it is W&S Savile Row or Classic?


Thanks for replying, Simon. Woven silk or a silk grenadine may be a good option. The suit is a three-piece in a navy fresco, so I expect a knit silk would be too close in terms of texture to the fabric of the suit.

I like this suit but surely more appropriate for one of the guests? A traditional morning suit or military dress uniform are the only two garments that are correct to match with a bride wearing a white wedding gown, nothing else will do.


Military dress… perfect as an easy option for the less imaginative and those that don’t want anybody to forget they’re in the military.


I’m a year away from my wedding, so this is helpful to provoke thinking about my outfit.

I bristle a bit though, at your suggestion that it would be the bride’s day, and not the groom’s. While that is certainly what the general culture and wedding magazines try to convince us of, I have never quite understood why that would be the case. As equal partners who choose each other, surely the bride and the groom should have equal say in the wedding arrangements (and from a fashion perspective, equal allowance for that extra bit of flamboyance! )


Not a fan of the morning suit?


The big problem, I find, with a morning suit, is that people generally don’t own one. Even if they do, the chances of their father, father in law, brother, best man, ushers etc. all owning them is relatively slim. So, in order to get to the point of being able to assemble a full bridal party, you are looking at hiring suits for at least some people, and these are invariable awful – made of nylon, cut too big etc. Even if you, as the groom, wish to invest in a morning suit, it doesn’t solve this problem.


The answer is to only specify the dress code as morning coat if you are sure that most of your guests will own one or at least understand what it should consist of (i.e. no frilly cravats with matching waistcoats and pocket squares as many rental shops would have us all believe…) and be able to turn up looking fairly smart in it. IMO it just looks a bit forced if only the bridal party are in them.
as to the question of investing in a morning coat – it’s not much of an INVESTMENT if you are never going to wear it again… but if, as i have said above, you know that most of your guests will be able to rock up in one, then the chances are that you move in circles where you in turn will be invited to weddings stipulating morning dress and it becomes an entirely different kettle of fish.


I agree, you either moves in circles where morning coats at weddings are the norm, or you do not. In the former case, it is indeed not much of an investment. I own two morning coats in different weights and a light grey morning suit, to continue the theme in this article, and they all get worn often enough to justify their existence. I bought the first one for £50 secondhand and had it adjusted: it is a 1930s bespoke morning coat made by Connock and Lockie. Hardly a big investment either, and rather better than a hired outfit. There is one problem with morning dress at weddings, however, and that is the inconsistency of wearing top hats. If the groom does not wear a top hat, it seems bad form to upstage him. With lounge suits at weddings, the problem does not arise. I like this groom’s db suit, but I agree with Simon about the boutonniere, and the flower would look better held behind the lapel in a loop.


Hi Simon,
Couple of things – this post really shows how photos can be deceptive regarding colour on a screen. On the cover of your post the suit looks almost airforce blue on my screen yet the same photo in the body of the post shows quite clearly that the suit is light grey. I also thought that the grooms watch ( looks like a Rolex datejust ? ) was suitable for the occasion i.e. as a opposed to a large divers watch with coloured strap which I saw recently. Great post – its always good to see people wearing bespoke clothes in real situations.



Hi Simon. What is your view about morning wear for a wedding? I really like the cloth used in this suit. Can I ask, what would be the minimum weight you would suggest for morning wear? Obviously you have to find a balance between the coat hanging properly and remaining structured in the tail, against the fact that it is three piece and usually worn in the summer. I would be very interested in your opinion.

Many thanks


What about a black tuxedo?

Reuven Lax

The rule I always heard (here in the US) is that one dresses for the end of the event, not the beginning. So if an event begins in the afternoon but finishes in the evening, then a tuxedo would be appropriate.


The “Tuxedo” is standard wear at a wedding in the US, and will often be seen in the morning if the event is timed then.

Of course tuxedo it is also an Americanism; dinner jacket is its proper name.


Well, that’s the British English name for it. But since we’re talking about what we all seem to be regarding as an American tradition, its surely not wrong (if it ever could be wrong) to call it by the American name. I’m not sure that “proper” comes in to it – its not like it is an exclusively English form of dress.


Wrong. Born in England, exported to the USA, where it changed its name to that of the place where it became a popular form of dress.

But then again its called a Smoking by the French…….


@Reuven that’s very interesting to hear and I guess I’d never really thought of it that way before. All of the formal weddings I’ve been to in the States started late afternoon / early evening so a tux doesn’t feel too unusual then. I can’t help thinking it would look very strange to be in black tie at 11am in an English church though…

Reuven Lax

Yes, it’s a good point. When I heard that principle, I was imagining a wedding that began in late afternoon and finished in the evening – so evening wear was appropriate. Wearing a tux for a morning ceremony would be a bit odd, even if the event lasted through the evening.


Hi Simon

Love the site and all that, but I want to call you out on this. A bit further up the page you say “there are no absolutes of right and wrong here”, but saying “never” to a tuxedo at a wedding is exactly that.

Morning suit, military dress, a black tuxedo or a suit, it is your wedding so wear what you want to wear.

(Full disclosure – I wore a tuxedo.)




Each to there own I’d say. If you are lucky enough to be invited to someone’s wedding then you should have the courtesy and good grace to partake in their vision of their Big Day. I’ve been to a wedding where black tie was requested for a English summer daytime event set in a field, and followed by jazz & cocktails in a marquee with nods to a speakeasy. A unusual perhaps, and of course not everyone’s cup of tea, but it represented the couples interests perfectly, and as such felt wholly appropriate as well as being memorable and good fun.

Peter K.

I married in Canada, where a Tuxedo for the groom and other men in the wedding party is also common. For many men it will be the only time they ever get to wear one.

If I were to do it again (Heaven forbid) a suit like this one would be a much better choice.

Martin Charles Flockhart

“remember, this is no way your day; it is your bride’s.”

Honestly Simon, how could you say such a thing in this day and age? Surely outdated rhetoric.

My Fiance is the love of my life and we’ve been together for 14 years; we are preparing for OUR wedding next year.

Our relationship has always been equal why would our wedding day be any different?


I must say, I was mildly amused by you cropping the bride out of most of the photos, after saying that it’s her big day!


I agree with Simon … after all marriage is an invention for the benefit of women, it traps men into being monogamous with one women who will take half your assets if you leave her or she finds someone better. Therefore it’s only right you should recognise that it’s her day to celebrate.

Ps Simon I hope you don’t delete my comment, I want to save as many style forumites as I possibly can.


My God! To you & G. (see above): the reason is you’ve to be a gentleman! Period.


What about wearing morning dress? How does one wear morning dress uniquely and interestingly?


Yes please, but would love some input soon! Will be getting married in a year, so will need to think about commissioning in 6 months!!


I stand by my earlier comment! I am looking to get my first ever savile row (most likely Anderson and Shepard) for morning dress. Any tips if that is a good choice for the style, or how to buy / wear it! Would be highly appreciated!!


Hi Simon,
With the pale grey colouring, would this be acceptable for a business environment?
I ask as I recently had a single breasted fresco suit made in a similar mid/pale grey colour and have thought before that it’s a bit “wedding-y”.
If wearing to work on a warm day, would toning down the formality in, say, a coloured (or striped / patterned) shirt and textured tie help lose the assumption that I’m off to a wedding with my briefcase?!

William M

The FOTB is not too shabbily dressed either.


I find the perceived formality of the DB suit to be somewhat confusing.

In theory they are supposed to be less formal than a standard SB jacket, but they are so rarely seen these days (particularly on younger men) that they instantly convey the sense that one is ‘dressing up’ for the occasion.

Reuven Lax

It’s similar with boots, no? Originally balmoral boots would have been considered far more formal than shoes. These days boots are perceived as less formal, due to their uncommonness


The formality of a suit has generally been about how much of the shirt is covered up, so in theory a DB is more formal than a single breast, but less so than a three piece suit.


Hi Simon,
Thank you soooo much for this very instructive and lovely post!!! I’ve seen almost all your posts, and that means including posts that I had thought to be great. But this one is the greatest so far, really!
I would like to thank Oliver, presumably a regular PS reader, for having allowed these nice pics be posted to illustrate the subject of this post! This is really kind! A great service to many folks well beyond PS readers, mind you!
Now a question to you, Simon: how could, say, a friend attending such a wedding choose his own outfit to suitably match the sharpness of Oliver’s?
Thanks again for this post!

William M

I was at a country wedding last year where the dress code was suits. I had taken a blue linen and a black/white houndstooth suit and as the weather was wet I chose the houndstooth. I was surprised that nearly all the other guests wore dark suits almost city suits. There was one morning coat.


Is it just me, or is this suit a lot more drapey than the ones they did for you?


Really nice outfit and a very nice balance between something special enough to feel like a wedding outfit while being versatile enough to wear again. To all the commenters who insist a morning coat is the only option, can you really justify the cost of getting one made bespoke?Unless you’re a regular on the Ascot circuit and/or have an unusually high number of friends who insist on very formal weddings (or are just very wealthy, which I guess you probably are if you fall into the first two groups!) I imagine the answer is probably no. Given that, wouldn’t you rather have a bespoke suit than a RTW morning coat?

Would also be very interested to see what you wore to the wedding Simon (assuming you were a guest…)


Would a navy suit look to business-y?


The three pockets with flaps, especially the change pocket have to me taken this down a level. On a double two only, and flawless would have been perfect. Jacket a little too short too. Does the right lapel have a button hole too?


It’s called a ticket pocket, and is standard issue on a DB if you choose to have one. Suspect no as buttonhole is worn wrong.


There is a button hole but as the rose was large it didn’t look right. I too would have selected a smaller rose and worn it through the button hole but the florist didn’t understand the definition of a small rose! Thank you for all your nice comments, it was a pleasure to wear on a very special day.

Matt S

This is a very nice wedding suit! I appreciate that he is wearing black shoes, too. Black shoes have become unfashionable in the US, and people here would somehow consider them wrong with a pale grey suit (or really anything). The last wedding I attended had the groom and all of the groomsmen in mid-grey suits with satin trim (urgh) with mid-brown shoes. It was better than the get-ups I saw two wedding parties wearing for photography this weekend. One was dressed in a waiter’s uniform of black waistcoats and trousers (no jacket) and the other was in grey trousers and clip-on braces with nothing over the shirt. Americans somehow think they need to wear these kinds of things for their weddings without considering the formality of the occasion or how ridiculous they may look.


I definitely agree that this is a very good choice for a wedding outfit.
I personally don’t like morning dress as it is too much like a period costume for me and as you would wear a morning dress very seldom it would be pretty bad investment for a bespoke order and if it is not bespoke, chances are, that it will fit bad and at the end of the day you would be poorly dressed on your wedding day.
Black tie is also a bad choice as it does not look so nice under the bright sun light. I would switch to black tie in the evening.

So this pale grey db suit is really a very good choice – looks good and it is practical.
I personally don’t feel that grey suits me so in my particular case I would wear a blue double breasted suit for my wedding one day in the future.


I am a fan of morning dress. Yes having it made bespoke may seem like an extravagance but there are other events such as Ascot where it can be worn. Tailors such as Graham Browne could make one at a reasonable price. I would also suggest that as it is not frequently worn, it would last a lifetime.

Simon, I echo the above comment that it would be really interesting for you to do a piece on morning dress. It is something that can look incredibly elegant if done well, or awful if done badly. Particularly pertinent at the moment as we enter the racing/wedding season.


Hello Richard,
even if we ignore the monetary aspect and imagine, that you have the budget to wear Savile Row bespoke morning dress on your wedding,
i still don’t like it. 🙂
Best regards


I think the problem with this is that Ascot is basically the only other event it can be worn at (rather than an example) and unless you get invited to weddings regularly where everyone is invited to wear morning dress (in my circles, very rare indeed) that leaves you only with weddings where you form part of the bridal party.

Often as not, there will be a (perhaps loose) colour theme on such occasions which your bespoke coat might not fit and so must be left at home.

Of course, there is the Pippa Middleton model where everyone is sufficiently wealthy that you can request morning dress is worn by all and have that rather nice collage of complimentary but slightly different coats and tasteful waistcoats which you see on such occasions where everyone owns a bespoke (or inherited) morning suit… but in the real world I fear you are just inviting most of your guests to hire a morning suit from Moss Bros, at considerable expense for an ill fitting 80% nylon monstrosity!

William M

Weddings where morning dress is worn are not so uncommon in the UK and if you are a normal shape a RTW coat may easily fit you. I have both a RTW and bespoke morning coat and have had plenty of use from them over the years even without going to Ascot for some time.


Not sure where you’re from but in London I wear morning dress on weekdays till 6 whereupon I change into a lounge suit or if going to a formal event dinner jacket. Personally I like old world style and couldn’t give a hoot what the general public makes of it, the jeans and hoody clad publics opinion means very little to me. There is nothing more elegant and refined that a morning coat hristo!

Tim Fleming

When you say “silly waistcoat,” does this mean that you feel any waistcoat is silly, or just those tacky odd waistcoats?


Odd waistcoats surely not tacky? A lovely pale blue linen waistcoat with morning dress is just marv


Hi Simón

Hace you ever worn your double breasted prince of WAles suit in a wedding?

Kind regards from Spain

Reuven Lax

I’ve also been fascinated by morning dress at weddings, simply because it’s something that does not exist in the US. It wasn’t always so – in the early 20th century morning dress was found in the US – but nowadays I’d guess that even white tie would be more common.


It was still the norm for US presidents to be inaugurated in morning dress until the beginning of the 1980s, the first inauguration of Ronald Reagan in 1981 I think being the last occasion.

Reuven Lax

Yes, you’re right about that! Though Ford and Carter wore regular suits, it was somewhat common for presidents to wear morning dress at inauguration. I believe Reagan technically wore a stroller suit though, not a morning coat.


Peerless choice.
I got married in a very similar suit in 1976 and the photos still look good to this day.
In forty years time the bride and groom will look back with pride knowing they got it absolutely right.
The only small detail I would have changed would be to drop the ticket pocket.
For me, it never looks quite right on a DB – I’d appreciate Simon’s view on this. That said, it is literally a small thing – they all look great.


Hi Simon, I’m due to tie the knot next summer and have started thinking about what to wear… at the risk of appearing too nonchalant I really wanted to shoot for something Neopolitan (I’ve never had anything commissioned in that style before but find I’m moving towards much softer lines generally e.g. I seem to live in a boglioli jacket these days). Is there anyone you can recommend who visits (or is based in) London in the £1.5-2k bracket for a two-piece? Solito seems to start around £2.5k – if it really is the best around that price point then I can probably stretch to it but just interested to know if you’d recommend anyone else who would cut a similar style at a slightly lower cost. Also any English tailors I should look at who would do a softer style? I’ve seen e.g. Graham Browne claim to be able to make a Neopolitan style jacket – am I right to be a bit dubious? Really grateful for any thoughts.


Whats this Anglo-Italian place all about? Anything more concrete we can google for ?

Nick Inkster

That sounds interesting. Can you remember which street………there are a few.


from your comment does it mean you need to book?


Any idea how Anglo Italian MTM would compare against P Johnson?

David Garratt

+1 for morning dress at weddings, if that is your preference. I see no issue with the core wedding party wearing proper morning dress (not hire), whilst extended guests wear suits. Well made morning coats last decades and can be matched with changing trousers and waistcoats over the years. Finally on morning dress, I disagree that the only other use is Ascot… don’t forget Epsom!

At the same time I very much like the groom’s suit in this case. Have just picked up my first finished suit from W&S, also double breasted but in navy, and had first fitting of a tropical-weight single breasted in dark grey that already looks superb, and is destined for use as best man at another wedding, this one in Tuscany in August!


I agree. I would go further and say there’s nothing wrong with even the core wedding party wearing a variety of different things. There’s no need for everyone to wear a matching uniform, even if you see that at many weddings (especially in the US). A mixture of morning dress and well cut lounge suits looks perfectly fine – and, to my mind, is preferable to forcing some people to rent.


Hi Simon, Greetings from the antipodes. I’m considering a navy suit for a wedding in a few months time and I noticed the comments about the potential for it to look a little too ‘business-y’. Are there some ways to avoid that a little? Would you stick with a white shirt, grey tie, plain pocket square, black shoes? Or is there some scope to alter any of those a little?

This will be a relaxed garden wedding with a fairly relaxed dress standard given what passes for sartorial elegance in New Zealand.

Kind regards,



Hi Simon, Yes I’d considered a mid grey suit but wonder if I’d get much further wear out of it. I was wondering if there’s some way of alleviating the serious business look of the navy version? Perhaps I should add that this would be my first suit.



Hi Simon, Thanks for the replies. At the age of 50 I’m not sure how much going forward there is. As I said we have very relaxed dress codes here and I work in the creative & education fields so there’s not a tremendous call for wearing a suit. I guess I’m battling between the mid grey and navy in terms of the day itself and wearing the suit occasionally after that. I suppose that tie, shoes, pocket square are really the only place to dress the suit up or down a little. Kind regards, John.


This looks great. I am getting married next December but have been researching the perfect suit for some time. I would quite like to use a bolder material and wondered if this is something they would offer. This will be my first bespoke offering and wondered if it would be okay to ask them to produce a double breasted waistcoat or if this wouldn’t be in keeping with their “house style”? I would love to hear your thoughts as this is all quite new to me and want it to be perfect for the wedding.


As a long time (somewhat addicted reader!) may I say your blog is tremendous?

A non- simple question – what are the relative merits of a Dege & Skinner MTM at around £950 inc vat versus the W&S classic bespoke? I ask because I have just checked the W&S website and see that the price of W&S seems significantly more the articles/comments here suggest – around £1700 inc vat for the basic model. That makes W&S very expensive, doesn’t it?

Thank you.


Thank you Simon for this inspiring website !

I was wondering what type of collar I should wear with a double-breasted suit (and tie)..
I noticed that you like spread collar shirts but I am personally fond of snap-tab collars, which I think is so elegant and very unusual here in France.
Would it look good with a double-breasted ? Does it depend also on my physical appearance ?
If it does, I am…quite like you ! (Thin, bearded and almost bald -sorry !)
Thanks for you advice.


HI Simon

Brilliant website and info that you provide! I’ve learnt so much in the last week or so browsing through this.

I’m looking for my own wedding suit and have decided on bespoke as opposed to M2M (mostly thanks to this site) however budget wise I’m not in a position to go crazy.

I was v interested in your comments on the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury classic bespoke as a great way to keep costs down yet still providing a quality product. Are there any other Tailors who you would also recommend or in this ball park do you still feel that they’re the best value?

Many thanks

Jason Francis

Simon, I’m attending a country wedding in Gloucestershire between Christmas & New Year. Given the location & more relaxed time of year, I’m considering wearing a navy corduroy suit with a wool or knitted tie or a tweed jacket with either cords or grey flannels. I considered a tweed suit but would prefer more versatile dress given that l live on the Equator & would like to be able to wear the pieces separately (in more temperate climates). Equally, it is entirely impractical to have something made due to the local unavailability of appropriate fabrics. I’m also uncertain of local tailors’ ability to work with the material. I would welcome your opinion on the choice of outfit & also on decent off-the peg retailers (Cordings or Walker Slater, for example). Thanks very much for your help.


That sleeve pitch is indeed lovely!

On the topic of wedding outfits, what is your opinion on Tommy Shelby’s wedding outfit in Peaky Blinders? I love the bespoke suits they made for him, but a mid-blue flannel with a navy grenadine tie strikes me as an odd choice for a wedding suit — especially since the show is otherwise very historically accurate, at least to my knowledge (of course the non-bespoke suits really detract from it, some lapels are hideous).


Hi Simon,

Just after a bit of advice. My wedding is this year in November in the late afternoon. I live in Australia – which means it is rather warm that time of year.

I was just wondering if you could provide any sartorial advice regarding the suitability of wearing dinner suits, and potentially a white jacket.

Thanks in advance.


Hi Simon

I have a wedding in Marbella at the height of summer. I’m torn between fresco vs 12oz linen. Which do you think would be cooler. I’d get the linen unlined if that makes a difference and the choice would be navy.


Can I ask, why the aversion to navy linen? Any other colour for a linen suit you could recommend? Perhaps the grey linen you’re having made? Can I ask, who did you get the cloth from? It’s a cracking shade of grey.


Thanks for clarifying. Any idea where I can source a heavier linen in dark grey? Everywhere seems to offer 10oz.


Sorry, another question. Do you think 10oz is a little too light for a linen suit. I know in the past you’ve said a weightier cloth holds it’s shape better.


Hi Simon. Do you think a mid grey flannel DB would be appropriate for a groom?



It’s a great looking suit for the occasion!

All things keeping to plan and I’ll be in the same boat shortly, but thought to take a slightly different tack for the suit. I chose a dark navy flannel and cashmere cloth in 13oz from Loro Piana. Navy for formality befitting the occasion and flannel for texture and a subtle difference which I hope will distinguish it from a business suit. Currently intend to wear black loafers (but open to brown subject to below Q).

I’d greatly appreciate your views on a shirt and tie ensemble that will further distance the outfit from London City and introduce some informality and interest (it’s not a formal wedding). Holding below out to be shot down as too obvious, and also to invite suggestion:
– shirt: very light blue end on end / twill
– tie: had thought rust/orange grenadine or a brown

Suit itself should be striking enough in its cut and cloth. To that end, am tempted by subtle and understated – a crisp white shirt, shiny dark blue silk tie (contrast with flannel) and white pocket square is an alluring fallback in this regard.

Cheers and keep up the great content!


Great post and helpful tips. I will be getting married this summer in the US and the venue will be a fairly casual bar/restaurant with outdoor space (it’ll be hot!). I am looking for something even less formal than the above and also cooler. The options I am considering are (all SB):
Dark green linen
Mid to light grey fresco/crispaire
Just lighter than Navy fresco/ Crispaire
Light Brownish-grey fresco/crispaire

I’d like the suit to feel unique to the occasion (not too business suit-like and have some uniqueness beyond a typical suit) while also being versatile enough to get future wears. Anything from the above standout as a no-go or a better option than the others? Or do you have a different recommendation (i.e. a wool/silk/linen blend fabric, another color to consider, or a different weave)?



Simon, If you were to go with a navy suit for a wedding, would you go with a standard navy or a dark navy? With the former, I mean that it would be obvious it was navy. ie not midnight


Great looking suit. I presume the cloth is a sharkskin/pick and pick btw ? It’s incredibly versatile !


My 13oz wedding suit currently in construction for what was a January wedding might not be so perfect for what will likely now be a June or July wedding! The current one is a DB and not-quite-as-mid grey as in this article. Do I add another suit to my order and go for something lighter?


hi simon, i have a ceremony booked for june but the date is still within the current uk restrictions. as such, only 6 people can attend so since i am forced to have such a small ceremony, do you think a navy solaro suit will be OK?


Thanks Simon.

My thinking is since it can only accommodate 6 people in total, I have the flexibility to play around since its a really small ceremony. I’m also planning to host something bigger with all families and friends at a later date and I’m planning to look more ‘traditional’ then…

A navy solaro is quite unusual but still formal enough hence my question but I am also looking into a khaki green cotton suit.

From your experience and knowledge , which one would look good in a ceremony of just 6 people, groom and bride included.

I hope I’ve clarified my reasoning for you.


Hi Simon, thanks for your great insight into this topic. Light grey DB is something I would not have thought of but looks fantastic. I am getting married next June in the south of France and am looking for something slightly lighter.

I am thinking a beige/stone linen suit, white shirt, textured tie and dark brown suede tassel loafers (C&J Cavendish). Slightly less formal than the level you would recommend, but then I think that’s the south of France aspect – if I were getting married in the UK I would likely be wearing a morning suit.

For the suit, I am thinking unlined (so I can make the most of linen’s breathability), natural shoulders, single breasted, and probably a relatively midweight or even heavier linen so long as it is open weaved enough to be breathable.

What are your thoughts on that? Would you additionally have any recommendations on a London tailor to make such a suit? I think Steed and Graham Browne appear to be the best in my price range (under GBP 1500) but would be open to any more Italian-influenced recommendations.

Thanks kindly, Sam


Thank you very much Simon, appreciate the tips. I’ll take a look at alternative ties and I have a pair of dark brown leather cavendish loafers too which I can use instead – I have the fortune to be able to compare both.

I think I might be using the above example of your friend’s suit with regards to the fit, as he has a similarly stocky/broad shouldered build and the suit complements that very well. I realise it’s partly the double breast, but I think the other proportions contribute to that well too.


Beautiful wedding suit. If you were to use the light grey DB again as a wedding guest or for a similar occasion, how would you dress it to avoid looking like you’re masquerading as groom? Presumably by changing the tie, perhaps to a pale blue or yellow? And would you wear this suit with anything other than a plain white shirt?


Hello, Thanks for the informative post. I am getting married this fall and am planning on wearing a navy suit, white shirt, black shoes. My fiance’s dress is off-white to ivory and I’m wondering if that should play a factor in selecting my white shirt. Should it be a bit off-white as well or is that just going to look dirty or tired? Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.



Thank you,

Very much appreciate the response.



Our wedding is next July in Ireland and I was wondering what attire we should go for? The ceremony is at 2 and the reception is in the evening. We wanted to do black tie for the reception but I doubt our guests, especially as many will be flying in, will want to change attire (even more so with the pub selection nearby). Do you think it will be better to tone down the formality for the reception so people can wear the same clothes through and not be uncomfortable at either? What level of formality do you think would be best? As an aside, I love the above suit, it looks fantastic.

Thank you,


Thanks Simon


Thank you! Your excellent article convinced me to go for a DB in pale grey. My wedding is in one month and I’m very satisfied of the result, although I think I should have chosen a paler grey…
NB: I will wear black shoes and the trousers will be slightly shortened


Thank you Simon!


Hello Simon, we’re about to have an autumn wedding next year and as much as I like this pale grey suit, I’m afraid it won’t fit in an October setting, being, well, pale. I wonder if you agree and what you’d suggest instead – a darker grey perhaps? Thank you.


Such as your Sexton DB flannel?


Hi Simon. I’m getting married a few days before Christmas, and was wondering whether a mid-grey flannel three-piece would work. It’s a rural location, so I wonder if black oxfords, white shirt etc might feel a bit ‘city’ for the occasion. What do you think?


I almost wondered about a nice tweed jacket with tailored trousers! Thanks for the reply.


Hey Simon

Long time follower of your guidance and articles. Transformed by wardrobe over the past 10 years or so. It’s been my dream since first subscribing to purchase my first bespoke suit for my wedding.

I Intended to go Whitecomb & Shatfesbury for this DB or one similar to your RAF blue. Unfortunately pandemic stuck, meaning the wedding was postponed by 2 years, and like a lot of people our finances tightened. So I gave up that dream and intended to go with one of my existing RTW suits.

Annoyingly, while we’re now in a much better situation, we are only 3 weeks until the wedding. I find myself in a interesting position, someone who carefully picks out clothing well in advance, yet for something so important, I’m in a similar spot to the average high street shopper…!

With all that said, I wondered if you had any thoughts or recommendations on a super speedy M2M or decent RTW option?



Thanks, Simon. Might be a little too casual based on their website, but will take a look in store, it’s an excellent suggestion.

Huntsman have one – though I wonder how much I am overpaying for their new marketing budget – any thoughts?!


Reading this convinced me of getting a light grey suit for my wedding. Considering that I live in a really hot place, I’m probably choosing a summer fabric like a fresco, crispaire or fox air. But I have two questions for you, Simon, and I hope you will answer.
Do you think these light grey melange from fox brothers is a bit too much for a wedding? (as, it has a bit to much beige in it, being not that grey?):
Second question: I know you said black oxfords are better, but do you think a really nice brown derbies like C&J Hardwick ou EG Dover would work? As the formality of the event, It will be a really small wedding and during the day. Nothing fancy.


Thanks for the answer! One last question:
Would you consider something like that to be “pale grey” and appropriate for a wedding?


Hi Simon,
I got engaged just earlier this year and have naturally started to spend an excessive amount of time thinking about my wedding day outfit.
Being drawn to a sharp DB navy suit as the look of choice, i do wonder about its life after the big day. Our ceremony will likely be daytime and generally leaning towards a casual & intimate vibe.
As i hope i will find plenty opportunity to wear the suit again afterwards, the idea of traditional plain trouser hems for formal occasions causes me some trouble. I very much prefer cuffed trousers on all my suits, especially for DBs, for that casual look.

Now i am wondering, would one get away with having cuffed trousers for a town hall ceremony?


Ah, didn’t know it’s possible to hide enough cloth inside the leg for a turn-up later on!
Also noted on cuffs not being a big faux pas.
Many thanks for putting me a little at ease 🙂


Hi Simon

I’m getting married this July, in Mallorca. Which London based tailors would you recommend speaking with to help with a MTM or bespoke suit ? Thanks


Interesting and thought provoking, thanks Simon. I’m getting a bespoke suit made for my wedding, though going for a single breast and slightly darker grey. Not charcoal, but not mid-grey either. I’m about to finalise the cloth and am between a 10-11oz smith woollens, a 9-11oz fresco, and a 8-9oz fresco lite. The wedding will take place in July in Tuscany and it’s expected to be warm (31c highs / 16c lows), so firstly want to consider climate. Then secondly a point you made in the past about leaning towards heavier weight, I understand the suit will drape better. I have cloth samples, but it’s hard to picture an entire suit made up!

Other details, a pinpoint oxford button-less button down in either white, or light blue. French cuffs to wear family cufflinks. And an end and end tie, in either black and antique white (if going for the white shirt) or navy and antique white (for the light blue). I know the classic would be a white shirt and the black and white tie, but considering a touch of colour.

Any and all thoughts welcome, particularly interested in opinions on the suit cloth.


Hi Simon! I am getting married in Sicily end of June ? and am looking to get a suit made. I am considering Taillour; as bespoke or potentially some made to measure options.

I’m set on Double Breasted, but not on cloth or colour. I need something light obviously, I’m thinking max 250gr. And struggling to make my mind up ? some thoughts:
– Navy seersucker: I initially liked this idea but scared it will be too informal for wedding suit. Creasing and potential lack of structure.
– Fresco: Not a fan of the “rough” texture. Doesn’t strike me as extremely formal? Thoughts?
– Linen: too wrinkly for wedding suit I feel.
– Navy chalk stripe (light stripes): Perhaps too banker style for a summer wedding?
– Solaro: love the funky fabric, as an Italian ? however a bit too informal and mermaid iridescence for a wedding.

I work in creative industry so don’t wear suit for work, and wanted to avoid the “typical” navy / grey suit.

Am potentially considering a lighter coloured suit. Maybe Taupe / Light brown (not too light as I’m not a fan). Or a light pin striped Navy suit…. but am quite undecided to be perfectly honest with you! hehe

Any recommendations you may have in terms of cloths or colours to consider?

Also, if I go down the made to measure route, any reccomendations here in London? Keen to avoid the likes of Cad & The Dandy or Hackett for example…



Thanks Simon! I am starting to veer into the tan, light brown, taupe spectrum as I feel it would work well in Sicilian Summer, on a double breasted suit. Now I need to find the right colour and fabric… The fabric is going to be the key here as looking for something super light, soft, but that doesn’t crease too much. hehe.
Thanks for the help!


Dear Simon, do you still consider this the perfect wedding suit? What would be alternatives in 2023 (I am planning to commission something soon).


Thank you. If you were to have such a suit made for your wedding today, which address would you choose?


Thank you for your guidance. Much appreciated. May I bother you with another question? Which buttons would you choose here? Dark brown, dull?


Hi Simon, I think it is a very subtle difference, but if it were you, would you wear a dark blue and white standard-sized houndstooth or a black and silver micro-houndstooth tie with a mid-grey herringbone suit for the wedding?

Dark blue and White:

Black and silver:

Many thanks,


Hi Simon, good evening from Tokyo. On a matter of wedding ring, where shall the gentleman goes? Cartier, Tiffanny, etc.? Will love to hear your thoughts on this as my wedding is approaching. Of course i did my homework but would love to hear opinions from other well meaning people. Thank you.


Hello Nashi. If I may recommend the craftsman who made my wife’s engagement and wedding ring – Darren Sherwood. Darren used to work for Graaf and made pieces for firms including Cartier, Bootles and Faberge. Darren now works independently. Darren will be able to make whatever you want. You can see his resume and work on the links below.

As you mentioned Cartier I thought it was worth a recommendation.

Good luck!



Hi Alex, this is Nashi.

I browsed his works and outstanding. The only issue is I am based in Tokyo so perhaps there is challenges there.

I appreciated your kindness in sharing the information.


Hi Simon, I appreciate your thought. So here’s my idea so far:

  1. Engagement ring – will go to Cartier (ETINCELLE DE CARTIER RING or Solitaire)
  2. Wedding band – will go to jeweller

My concern with Jeweller is their sustainability. For example, if the could not sustain their business then the story of the ring has lost its soul. We could not re-connect this story to our children and their children to come. Perhaps that’s the reason I wanna go to Cartier for the engagement ring.

Further thoughts from you is most welcom.


You made me pause for a moment with your above statement. I will re-consider my options. And your inputs are very helpful. Thank you so much.


Hi Simon, thank you very much for this article. I found it very interesting. Would you be able to help please – I am getting married in a couple of months and am looking for a MTM suit. I have read around your site and notice Anglo Italian to be recommended. I was wondering – is there a brand who you think might be better suited to making a ‘classic’ English cut wedding suit, similar to your friends’ above, which you can recommend that sits in a similar price range and is as highly/similarly regarded (I am based in London)? Apart from the many recommendations for Anglo-Italian, another reason I was drawn to the brand is that I was reading how a shorter jacket can help to elongate the torso and at 5′ 9” I was thinking this might be helpful for me. In contract I certainly see the merits of a more ‘formal’ suit jacket as a groom and note that Anglo seem to do a softer shoulder/patch pockets for example. But these are new waters in which I am swimming and struggling to see the wood from the trees currently so any advice you could give I would very much appreciate. Thank you.


Hi Simon, thank you so much for the insight. It really is appreciated. The wedding is fast approaching and I have been a little lost with it all. I went to Suit Supply recently, but thought with a little digging I should be able to find a better offering. I have been searching the names you suggested. I am going to get off work an hour early this afternoon and head to Thom Sweeney to have an initial look in person and see if I can arrange an appointment. From a little reading I understand they do relatively traditional tailoring with a modern twist. As a smaller chap I think would appreciate the slightly shorter jacket length, for example. Would there be any particular things you would/wouldn’t recommend with a suit from them for a wedding and considering my stature? I don’t ask this lazily and have been researching similarly myself. I know to avoid things like unstructured shoulders and patch pockets for such an occasion and also longer jackets considering my height, but I am still very new to this and know there are inevitably pitfalls for the uninformed, which can be tricky to navigate and only become apparent when too late – if at all! Many thanks once again.


Hi Simon, sorry for not replying to you sooner. I checked out the Suit Style guide section and found it extremely helpful. I went to Thom Sweeney that afternoon when we last spoke. They were very friendly and helpful, but I decided in the end that the suit would be outside of my budget. Perhaps not the most popular choice, but I decided to go ahead with Suit Supply as they were within my budget and I found some cloth there that I liked. Honestly, I didn’t find the advice I was given in store to be in any way expert, but I appreciated I wasn’t paying big money and knew my expectations needed to be realistic. Your advice in the Suit Style guide section helped me navigate the process tremendously.

ps, I actually walked past you at around 6:45pm on Thursday evening at the top end of the Burlington Arcade! I was going to say hello, but you were in conversation with a few other finely dressed gentlemen so didn’t want to disturb you! Thanks again for your advice and I will be continuing to read your site as have already found so much excellent information on here!


Thanks Simon – yes will do!


Hi Simon! Great stuff here, thanks.

I’m from Brazil and I’m getting married in the summer (November). I already have a navy wool suit, but I’m going to have a bespoke one made for the wedding. What do you think would be nice, considering it needs to be navy? I wouldn’t want something too much like a business suit – maybe some textures? Something like Prince of Wales? It’s important that it’s usable after the wedding.


Do you think a linen suit with 3/2 buttons would be too casual? The cerimony Will start at 4pm at the church and after WE Will have a party till late.


Yes, like This one. There are few others that i was thinking also like the Loro Piano Moving Travel line or maybe Dormeuil Dorsilk in Wool and silk or even Drago Bluefeel (picture).


Hi Simon! Thanks so much for your time and help. Actually, my fiancee already gave her permission to wear my one and only suit, but i was thinking of using this opportunity (wedding) to comission a bespoke suit for the first time, so that’s why i’m thinking of comissioning a “all around” suit but at the same time something formal and refined but not like a traditional “business” suit.


Hi Simon

What would you recommend for a winter wedding set in the countryside. As a groom-to-be, I’m drawn to tweed and flannel, or perhaps even a combination of the two. Please can you recommend the most suitable options?