Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

January 19th 2022

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring .  But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, some...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 19th 2022

Reader profile: Mattia

January 17th 2022

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...

Reader profile: Mattia

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear.  I enjoyed talking to him, and his frien...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 17th 2022

Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review

December 22nd 2021

Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...

Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review

Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet.  JB - as he ...

JacketsDecember 22nd 2021

Reader profile: Ben

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together fo...

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed

November 3rd 2021

Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...

The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed

Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else.  So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run ...

Casual clothing - JacketsNovember 3rd 2021

Reader Profile: Andrew

October 27th 2021

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...

Reader Profile: Andrew

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe...

Jackets - StyleOctober 27th 2021

The jackets I picked for winter

October 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds ...

JacketsOctober 20th 2021

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

October 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article , I mad...

Jackets - TrousersOctober 13th 2021

The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’

October 4th 2021

Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...

The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’

Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been  the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have ...

JacketsOctober 4th 2021

Brioni bespoke tailoring

September 22nd 2021

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a...

Jackets - SuitsSeptember 22nd 2021

The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)

September 17th 2021

I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...

The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)

I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy.  He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries ...

JacketsSeptember 17th 2021

Matching checks on a jacket

September 10th 2021

Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...

Matching checks on a jacket

Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our...

JacketsSeptember 10th 2021

The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65

August 30th 2021

This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vinta...

The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65

This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’.  I bought it two years ago, at the...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 30th 2021

Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers 

August 16th 2021

We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...

Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers 

We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them.  Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen read...

Jackets - ShirtsAugust 16th 2021

Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review

August 11th 2021

Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect up...

Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review

Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare.  I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from A...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 11th 2021

Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern

August 6th 2021

By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you expect from the desig...

Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern

By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 6th 2021

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

July 12th 2021

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury.  And really good made-to-measure is i...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 12th 2021

MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review

July 5th 2021

I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me. Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basically, I’m a little taller ...

MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review

I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me.  Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basica...

Casual clothing - JacketsJuly 5th 2021

The T-shirt under tailoring

May 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...

The T-shirt under tailoring

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shi...

Jackets - StyleMay 26th 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, part...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 28th 2021

Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I think Massura is worth highlighting...

Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review

Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples.  The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I thin...

JacketsApril 28th 2021

The Adret store: Full-blown beauty

April 16th 2021

This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautiful shop opened by Adam and ...

The Adret store: Full-blown beauty

This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautifu...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 16th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class.  John cham...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

December 16th 2020

Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start.  It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finish...

JacketsDecember 16th 2020

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

November 30th 2020

  In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it&rs...

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

  In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clot...

JacketsNovember 30th 2020