Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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I cover a lot of younger tailors G, but I tend not to cover them when they are really starting out, because what they do will often change, and I can't cover them every few years or the site would be nothing but that. On...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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Very true, and the way it's worn is not to highlight the bespoke either - with jeans, worn open. It's not really about the quality aspect...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
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Thank you Alex...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Thank you Laurent, that's very useful (for me and for everyone else!) Cheers...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
Readers who saw the first article on Assisi , the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimens...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
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I think have a look at the other comments and my replies, Kamo. There is lots of discussion there about the size...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more s...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
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I would always wear a shirt I like the fit of, so I can assess the sleeve length and other things. That hasn't happened to me, no, but if it's a difference between wearing those two things underneath I'd imagine it's a p...
Rifugio’s old villa
On a surprisingly warm, sunny day last January we visited the Art Deco villa that is Alfredo Rifugio's headquarters in Naples. It’s not what you expect for an Italian workshop. While there are lots of beautiful little tailors and cordwainers ...
Rifugio’s old villa
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No sorry, I didn't see any, they don't make them themselves I don't think...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020 . It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
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I'd wear a much softer, single-breasted jacket in a material with a fair amount of texture. If you search on the site for 'jacket and jeans' you'll see a few examples...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
The new version of our reversible suede bomber jacket - reversible so you can turn it inside out at the first hint of rain - is finally here. Much as I liked the previous version, the process of designing the Linen Harrington - essentially from scr...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
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Hey Noel, I wouldn't worry about it just out and about - if there is any fading, it won't be for many years. But I would avoid hanging it anywhere where it's in direct sunlight for a long period of time regularly. It's w...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
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In this material, I don't think it would cover anything that smart - no smarter tailored event or anything like that. Maybe a cocktail at a bar perhaps but otherwise I'd want a finer material. I might wear it with a blac...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
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Ok, good to know...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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Yes it does, and yes it can...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
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Hi Martin, There aren't many good ones around, and of course none exactly like the games blazer. But have a look at the jackets from John Simons perhaps...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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I find that there is a large grey zone between safari jackets and overshirts. The safari jackets of Pini Parma (50 linen / 50 wool) are a good example. No epaulettes, no belt, the breast pockets are more integrated in th...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...
Reader profile: Shun
With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...
Reader profile: Shun
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Many thanks for this thoughtful and honest response Andrew, much appreciated!...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good ca...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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Perhaps, yes, for a slightly smarter/sharper look...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
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Yes, absolutely...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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Hi Jack. Perhaps a little bit, but it would be pretty small...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
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Hi Simon / Tim, Today, I acquired the brown waxed Arterton suit carrier, monogrammed, for £100. Very strong but rather heavy but beautifully crafted. I called into Bennett Winch, and looked at their suit carrier, a grea...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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Yes! It could be lovely, but it won't feel like a summer jacket really...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
