Rifugio’s old villa
On a surprisingly warm, sunny day last January we visited the Art Deco villa that is Alfredo Rifugio's headquarters in Naples. It’s not what you expect for an Italian workshop. While there are lots of beautiful little tailors and cordwainers ...
Rifugio’s old villa
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Oh good, lovely to hear Nezar...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020 . It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
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Thanks Stephan, yes it's for the second reason - it wouldn't have looked good there in the proportions of the lapel. And even if one end of the pin went through the buttonhole, the other end would have to come out throug...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
The new version of our reversible suede bomber jacket - reversible so you can turn it inside out at the first hint of rain - is finally here. Much as I liked the previous version, the process of designing the Linen Harrington - essentially from scr...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
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Wonderful, thanks so much Craig, that's lovely to hear - particularly given the specific feedback...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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It certainly does Manish… and understand the distinction you are making between outerwear and casual jackets. I figured you’d have tried one if they were in stock so glad I asked. Looking forward to your next article...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
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Hard to say really Shem, sorry, I don't know the pair and haven't worn black chinos. I think it would help in terms of shoes to go with them if the chinos were a little faded/washed though...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
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Have a look at our overshirts maybe for an idea of length Martin? You can see pictures there and also see the measurements I would be cautious of shortening too much, as the proportions with the pockets etc would would s...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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Yes it does, and yes it can...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
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Looks nice Shem, good colour and the material and cut will be the same in approach as my cord: heavier, coarser, more casual...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Wow. I have to say that looks like a beautiful piece H, though not really my style...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...
Reader profile: Shun
With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...
Reader profile: Shun
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Many thanks for this thoughtful and honest response Andrew, much appreciated!...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good ca...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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Perhaps, yes, for a slightly smarter/sharper look...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
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I've certainly considered it, yes, just haven't had a chance yet...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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Tabio has quite a few taupe pairs in ribbed and non-ribbed at a mid-calf length. Unfortunately, I cannot attest to them as I tend to stick to knee-length....
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
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Hi Simon / Tim, Today, I acquired the brown waxed Arterton suit carrier, monogrammed, for £100. Very strong but rather heavy but beautifully crafted. I called into Bennett Winch, and looked at their suit carrier, a grea...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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Great, thanks Simon....
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
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Thank you for recommending Oily Jack. I took your advice and have just received my husband’s Border jacket back treated and now good as new. Brilliant job. . ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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It's mostly good with neutrals - so also grey, charcoal, black. But I have also worn it with a darker brown and a pale beige. With those latter too it all depends on the particular shade...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
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Good morning and a great article...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I have seen and tried them Jim, but don't own any. They are very big in the body compared to most regular shirts and I found that too much personally...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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Sunset looks pretty strong. I'd go for something more muted - Terracotta is the strongest I'd want. This summer I might try one of the creams or neutrals...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
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I assume you'll have that with either, as they don't go to Toronto. If New York is easier, you might need to go with Dalcuore or Solito perhaps...
