The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)

September 17th 2021

I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...

The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)

I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy.  He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries ...

JacketsSeptember 17th 2021

Matching checks on a jacket

September 10th 2021

Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...

Matching checks on a jacket

Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our...

JacketsSeptember 10th 2021

The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65

August 30th 2021

This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vinta...

The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65

This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’.  I bought it two years ago, at the...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 30th 2021

Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers 

August 16th 2021

We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...

Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers 

We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them.  Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen read...

Jackets - ShirtsAugust 16th 2021

Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review

August 11th 2021

Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect up...

Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review

Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare.  I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from A...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 11th 2021

Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern

August 6th 2021

By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you expect from the desig...

Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern

By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 6th 2021

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

July 12th 2021

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury.  And really good made-to-measure is i...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 12th 2021

MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review

July 5th 2021

I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me. Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basically, I’m a little taller ...

MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review

I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me.  Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basica...

Casual clothing - JacketsJuly 5th 2021

The T-shirt under tailoring

May 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...

The T-shirt under tailoring

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shi...

Jackets - StyleMay 26th 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, part...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 28th 2021

Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I think Massura is worth highlighting...

Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review

Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples.  The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I thin...

JacketsApril 28th 2021

The Adret store: Full-blown beauty

April 16th 2021

This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautiful shop opened by Adam and ...

The Adret store: Full-blown beauty

This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautifu...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 16th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class.  John cham...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

December 16th 2020

Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...

WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start.  It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finish...

JacketsDecember 16th 2020

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

November 30th 2020

  In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it&rs...

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

  In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clot...

JacketsNovember 30th 2020

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

October 26th 2020

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand...

Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involv...

JacketsOctober 26th 2020

The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...

September 28th 2020

How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...

The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...

How smart can you be without a suit or tie?  Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, ...

Jackets - StyleSeptember 28th 2020

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

September 21st 2020

Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat   This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little understanding. I loved...

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat   This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them.  It’s an area with little...

JacketsSeptember 21st 2020

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

September 16th 2020

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My made-to-measure Anglo-Italia...

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake).  My m...

JacketsSeptember 16th 2020

The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...

The guide to jacket pockets

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, ...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories.  Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to off...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

April 22nd 2020

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. I was measured at Pit...

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six ...

JacketsApril 22nd 2020

Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

February 14th 2020

Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...

Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve).  An...

JacketsFebruary 14th 2020

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...

December 4th 2019

This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket without silk facings - and how it...

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...

This article concerns two things.  First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut.  And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket witho...

Jackets - StyleDecember 4th 2019