The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t ...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. ...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some fla...
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth tha...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months o...
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was intereste...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well...
Reader profile: Daniel
Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...
Reader profile: Daniel
Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’...
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upsi...
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 produc...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, some...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his frien...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he ...
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together fo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run ...
Reader Profile: Andrew
This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...
Reader Profile: Andrew
This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds ...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I mad...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
*Note: This article has been updated from its original version, to correct a point about hand padding. Details in the new version, below* A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries ...
Matching checks on a jacket
Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...
Matching checks on a jacket
Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vinta...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen read...