Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

December 24th 2018

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light sh...

Jackets - TailoringDecember 24th 2018

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

December 10th 2018

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready ...

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they wil...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 10th 2018

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

November 26th 2018

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has rec...

Jackets - TailorsNovember 26th 2018

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

November 14th 2018

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an exp...

Jackets - November 14th 2018

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

October 26th 2018

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tailors from Milan will talk about...

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tail...

Finding a tailor - JacketsOctober 26th 2018

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven H...

October 8th 2018

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven H...

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream tr...

Jackets - StyleOctober 8th 2018

The guide to cashmere and precious fibres

October 1st 2018

Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Eduardo de Simone) and it’...

The guide to cashmere and precious fibres

Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Ed...

Cloth - JacketsOctober 1st 2018

The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB

August 22nd 2018

This is the latest in a nice series of posts called ‘ The Rules and How to Break Them‘. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here. You can navigate to that page by clicking on the &...

The rules and how to break them 8: Button a DB

This is the latest in a nice series of posts called ‘ The Rules and How to Break Them‘. Like the other Guides we have put together recently, it now has its own homepage, here.  You can navigate to that page ...

Jackets - StyleAugust 22nd 2018

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

July 27th 2018

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Ro...

Finding a tailor - JacketsJuly 27th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

July 9th 2018

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having ...

Jackets - StyleJuly 9th 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from D...

Glasses - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & She...

Jackets - TailorsJune 25th 2018

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

May 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and th...

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questio...

Belts and wallets - JacketsMay 21st 2018

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

March 19th 2018

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic menswear in ways that ...

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic mens...

Jackets - ShirtsMarch 19th 2018

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

February 9th 2018

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean house B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end result isn’t too bad (just...

B&Tailor jacket via Robin Pettersson: Review

I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean house B&Tailor over the past 18 months, using Robin Petterson - a Swede who does their fittings in London and at home in Stockholm. Unfortunately, although the end resul...

Jackets - TailoringFebruary 9th 2018

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will...

Jackets - TailoringJanuary 22nd 2018

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

January 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller...

Casual jackets - JacketsJanuary 1st 2018

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active.  Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include ...

Accessories - BootDecember 1st 2017

The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit

November 20th 2017

Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft and style, deep tradition and ...

The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit

Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craf...

Jackets - ShirtsNovember 20th 2017

Sartoria Formosa – bespoke-made RTW and MTM t...

September 25th 2017

Sartoria Formosa - led by Gennaro, above - is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years ago it did no RTW or made to ...

Sartoria Formosa – bespoke-made RTW and MTM t...

Sartoria Formosa - led by Gennaro, above - is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years...

Finding a tailor - JacketsSeptember 25th 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It ma...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

September 6th 2017

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are more likely to compare them t...

Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a modern ...

Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are...

Casual wear - JacketsSeptember 6th 2017

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

September 4th 2017

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored jackets, however, I want to sti...

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored j...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 4th 2017

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

August 25th 2017

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little ...

Jackets - SuitsAugust 25th 2017