Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

April 15th 2024

I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...

Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review

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Very nice. I particularly like the higher button placement and the lapel roll. I especially like this for heavier tweed jackets as one can button the top button in colder weather without having to pop the lapels as with ...

JacketsApril 15th 2024

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

April 8th 2024

By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...

A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear

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Never heard of this shop, and I live one (1) subway station away… 😄...

Coats - HatsApril 8th 2024

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

March 27th 2024

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...

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In the right fabric, yes it can do....

JacketsMarch 27th 2024

My case for the lightweight English jacket

February 9th 2024

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the ...

My case for the lightweight English jacket

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Thanks Paul. Yes I can see that would work for comments at a bigger scale, or if I weren't going through each one personally...

JacketsFebruary 9th 2024

Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things

January 31st 2024

One topic I thought it would be good to cover during Dry January was giving away clothes that you found - for whatever reason - no longer worked for you. Finding good homes for good things, essentially. A good example of this is the suede jacket th...

Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things

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It’s useful to note that almost everything we humans do is a form consumption construed in the very broadest sense of the concept (meaning: a use of planetary resources). Even the posting of that original comment was, ...

JacketsJanuary 31st 2024

Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer

January 8th 2024

This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...

Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer

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Hi Wu, Nice to hear, thank you. To be honest, a blazer like that is not something I've ever looked into having made, as it's not a style I like so much - perhaps a little too costume-y. If you have specific questions, do...

Jackets - StyleJanuary 8th 2024

The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...

December 29th 2023

When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century America...

The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...

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Actually Norman, that is correct - it sounds awkward of course, but it's the tense meant. He had (in the past) had it made. Thanks...

Coats - JacketsDecember 29th 2023

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

November 29th 2023

By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...

Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...

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Depends how long it’s been since the last suit. Have you gained or lost weight, become more muscular etc. I’ve also found that different material drapes a little differently… but perhaps that could be adjusted in t...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 29th 2023

Reader profile: Sebastian

November 24th 2023

Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...

Reader profile: Sebastian

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Most classic menswear brands will not offer discounts and often don't go on sale...

Coats - JacketsNovember 24th 2023

Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...

October 20th 2023

When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful of brands I return to every t...

Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...

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No, it's just tacked there to make it easier to move...

Coats - JacketsOctober 20th 2023

Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba

October 6th 2023

By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and ...

Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba

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Nice, thank you Stanislav...

JacketsOctober 6th 2023

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

September 27th 2023

This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

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No, it can certainly be worn like that...

Denim - JacketsSeptember 27th 2023

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

August 9th 2023

Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

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Hey Josh - finally got confirmation, it's Holland & Sherry 2024002...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 9th 2023

Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans

July 24th 2023

On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...

Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans

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I am a big fan of all black look. I am thinking about all black fresco suit (something I would wear at evening of course, it’s too hot where I live anyway) not sure about the shirt fabric though. Any recommendation? Li...

Bags - DenimJuly 24th 2023

The Bores jacket: My Fox version

June 12th 2023

The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...

The Bores jacket: My Fox version

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Thank you Alex...

JacketsJune 12th 2023

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

June 7th 2023

  Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

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Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm...

Bags - Belts and walletsJune 7th 2023

Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review

May 17th 2023

Readers who saw the first article on Assisi , the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimens...

Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review

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They're both quite soft in make, but the style is rather different, with the Assisi being a touch bigger and drapier. I'd say the finishing quality on Assisi is higher...

JacketsMay 17th 2023

Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB

May 3rd 2023

Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more s...

Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB

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I think the weight isn't for everyone, absolutely. I wear it more like a light coat most of the time. Go for something lighter, shetland or sherry tweed yes. But it goes with lots of things! Navy trousers, all shades of ...

JacketsMay 3rd 2023

Rifugio’s old villa

March 17th 2023

On a surprisingly warm, sunny day last January we visited the Art Deco villa that is Alfredo Rifugio's headquarters in Naples. It’s not what you expect for an Italian workshop. While there are lots of beautiful little tailors and cordwainers ...

Rifugio’s old villa

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No sorry, I didn't see any, they don't make them themselves I don't think...

Casual clothing - JacketsMarch 17th 2023

Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review

March 8th 2023

This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020 . It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and ...

Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review

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Re: black, to me the issue is whether it clashes with one’s complexion. In my experience, dark navies and dark charcoals have the same effect and generally match the same colors. People who can wear those colors can al...

JacketsMarch 8th 2023

Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber

February 22nd 2023

The new version of our reversible suede bomber jacket - reversible so you can turn it inside out at the first hint of rain - is finally here. Much as I liked the previous version, the process of designing the Linen Harrington - essentially from scr...

Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber

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Rather like black suede shoes, they tend to be a little showy...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 22nd 2023

The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed

January 23rd 2023

By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...

The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed

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Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...

JacketsJanuary 23rd 2023

How I wear a black tailored jacket

December 30th 2022

This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...

How I wear a black tailored jacket

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It depends a bit on the texture of the camelhair or cashmere - some cashmeres are more brushed, less smooth and luxurious - but in general yes, it can help...

JacketsDecember 30th 2022

Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy

December 21st 2022

Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...

Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy

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In general I think a good guide is that they should fall between halfway down your seat (the largest part) and the bottom of your seat. Between those two points is largely a question of style...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 21st 2022

Luxury chore coats compared

December 16th 2022

By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...

Luxury chore coats compared

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Hey BC, Yes the Lazyman would work, though I found them a little short. This is an area we covered quite a lot last year - we did a piece here on all the options, and then covered Tebas, chores etc separately. There are ...

JacketsDecember 16th 2022