The Bores jacket: My Fox version

Monday, June 12th 2023
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The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. 

But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who makes them - visited our pop-up shop, I had the chance to try it on in different sizes and materials. 

I commissioned one on the strength of that, and have been pleased with how it turned out. Not necessarily the execution of the made-to-measure service, though that was fine, but the pleasure I’ve taken in wearing it, and how it has fitted in my wardrobe. 

The pictures taken here are from a couple of months ago, when it was rather colder, but they illustrate well how I was wearing the jacket during that colder time. 

With a pair of flannels and a crewneck, the jacket looks a little dressed up but a completely different style to a navy blazer. There is no suggestion of that formality or classicism. 

Of course, a Forestiere jacket has its own traditions, but virtually no one outside of menswear is going to be aware of them. What they see is something very relaxed but still relatively smart with its own distinctive style. (At the most they might make a connection between the collar and a Nehru/Mao style.)

There is of course nothing wrong with the sharp lines and formality of a navy blazer. Quite the opposite: bespoke tailoring of that sort is the style I prefer, admire most and enjoy most. 

But most men want more than one style, and I know a lot of readers are interested in jackets like this. In fact, I think my love of elegant jackets is the reason why the Bores appeals to me. It means I can wear such pieces in a broader range of moods and occasions - where otherwise I’d be switching down to something much more casual like a chore or blouson. 

I had commented previously that the traditional Forestiere from Arnys didn’t really appeal. It always seemed a little sloppy to me, and eccentric in its brightly coloured lining, often deliberately revealed by folding back the cuffs. 

That feeling has been melted first by Christophe, when he created this slimmer, modern version that he calls the Bores, and then by myself in the style choices: using a classic-menswear dark navy from Fox Brothers, a tonal lining, and dark-brown horn buttons rather than the decorative, domed ones the jacket is more usually made with. 

A reader also commented years ago that the Forestiere only seemed to suit older, larger men, who appeared to be trying to conceal their girth with clothing that was that much bigger and bolder.

I don’t think that’s always true, but I do think the slimmer Bores offers the best of both worlds - slightly dropped shoulders that give an impression of width, but a body that is tapered to be relatively slim yet still very comfortable.  

Interestingly, some of the Bores’s relaxed nature comes from the fact that the sleeves are cut shirt-style, almost horizontal to the body, rather than pointing downwards like a jacket (above). This creates folds around the chest and sleeve, making it look very different from just an unstructured jacket. 

I also think the three patch pockets suit this style, and like the tonal elbow patches.

The only aspect I'm still a little unsure of is the extended collar. It flops rather, and I don’t especially like the look of it buttoned. But the jacket wouldn't be the same without it - it would lose character, be much plainer and more ordinary, and it helps that it's clearly functional. 

Even in this slimmed-down style, I still took a size smaller in the Bores than I would normally in a suit jacket - 48. 

But the 50 I tried was a better length on me, so we used that as the reference for length (2cm longer). And as is often the case with me, the jacket kicked out a little at the bottom, becoming slightly A-line, so we removed 3cm from the bottom. 

This was all executed correctly by Christophe and his makers, and I think the choices were the right ones too. As with many things - and certainly anything that is a new style - I would recommend trying sizes in person and using those for the specifications, if you can. That currently means visiting Christophe and the Chato Lufsen shop in Paris, although he is planning some trunk shows. 

Christophe offers a recreation of the Forestiere, the ‘Borestiere’ (as well as dealing in vintage Forestieres, and other Arnys products). He often wears this as an overcoat over a Bores, with the result of two extended collars running in parallel. 

I think it’s revealing that my Bores - already a size down from my normal jacket size - is something I would wear almost like a coat, in a heavier cloth and taken off often when inside. It has that room to it. 

Which makes me wonder whether a summer one, more akin to Tony’s (below) in weight and more like a jacket, would be something I’d wear in warmer months. It's certainly something I'll consider given how successful this one has been.

Details about making and pricing are all in Tony’s original article, but in brief:

  • Ready-made Bores jackets cost €790
  • Made to measure, like mine, starts at €1090
  • Both are made in France
  • My cloth is a 530/560g Fox Brothers flannel, FS405L-A2069/234. (Rather hairier than most flannels and so better for a jacket.)

The rest of the clothes are:

  • Rubato lambswool crewneck, size Medium
  • Hermes silk 90x90 square
  • Bespoke Whitcomb & Shaftesbury trousers in Fox 19oz flannel
  • Alden full-strap loafers on Aberdeen last, size 9.5

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Gabriel Hewitt-Pryor

Hi Simon, great article as always. Apologies that this question is unrelated to this particular post but I thought it had more chance of it being answered this way. My question relates to socks of all things…
When wearing shorts and trainers (like common projects or canvas shoes etc.) do you wear long socks or trainer socks? If long socks, what colours do you wear? I’ve seen the recent post of the Navy PS short and you are wearing ivory/cream socks with white trainers, which looks good. Is this the combination you would recommend the most?


Hi Simon, could you elaborate a bit on the topic of socks? Personally I think finer cottons suit over-the-calf socks better than mid-calf. I mostly wear invisible socks in summer these days anyway.
About color, you used to be a strong advocate for green, but it seems to me you hardly wear green socks anymore, am I mistaken? (I like cream by the way)

Lindsay McKee

Don’t see that flannel,FS405L-A2069/234, offered by the Merchant Fox.


“…the pleasure I’ve taken in wearing it…” You see? I feel so at home in my “forestière”, I made a second one in a linen/wool/silk mix. The button holes are still missing because I don’t have silk thread in the right color (and because I’m lazy).

Peter Hall

This jacket really appeals in a three season smart/casual wear for travel and business. It would certainly lighten the packing. To expand it’s range,Simon, is it light enough to use as a mid layer with a wool overcoat?
I’ve been trying this with various work shirts,but as you note the sloppiness pushes them too far into casual.


Thats a very nice jacket i was also considering making 3 months ago but i found a vintage cord that suited my exact need so i left the idea behind. It would be very interesting though to think of it denim for something a little more casual.


I quess id got with finer denim on that case for two reasons. First it then could be worn easily with jeans without looking out of place and without biker associations and secondly the drape on the lighter denim would compliment the idea of that jacket on first place. With hard denim it could look a lot like drakes chore coat in denim from this winter season. Finaly a last thought is that in this price range someone can get the ps reversible bomber which fits exactly the same temperatures but with a very different and maybe easier style to be worn more often.


Simon just a word on photography. When you shoot a dark top over a dark sweater and dark trousers it becomes nigh on impossible to get any perspective on the details of the piece.
I can just see a button, and I think three pockets, but that’s about it.

Paul H

Looks great and looks very useful Simon! Chato Lufsen is on the list for the next Paris visit. Regarding the floppy collar, any suggestions to remedy (shorter, wider, stiffer lining) or is that just part of the appeal? If, when unbuttoned, it was standing up might that be worse?


I had one made over the winter and have been absolutely loving it: especially for its extreme comfort, while still looking a bit smart, but above all for the ease of moving one’s arms about. I am quite the opposite of an older, larger man who has some girth to hide and I love that I can wear a really thick piece of knitwear underneath and not feel tight or any way constrained in my movement. Really useful addition to the wardrobe.

Zubair Abu Bakr

Hi Simon: Thank you for another interesting article. My question though is about the polos you have or rather had for sale. Do you anticipate the black polo (M) coming back in stock any time soon? Thanks


That’s a nice look – elegant without being formal.

Simon G

Great article, thanks! Recognizing that this isn’t the point of the article but I couldn’t help but notice the weight of your trousers (19 oz). Do you find they wear warm? I love the fabric in the photos, but worry about them wearing a little too warm on most days and thus being limited in when one could wear them.


A while back I purchased the Merchant Fox-Chato Lufsen collaboratie Bores jacket in blue flannel offered on their website. Spurred on by Tony Sylvester’s review it was a definite gamble. Boxy. Non-tapered sleeves. Hard to style the floppy collar. But it fills a gap in my otherwise tailored wardrobe and pushed me out of my comfort zone. Slight of build I don’t fit the oversize physique stereotype. The elephant insignia domed matte silver buttons give it some punch and break up the monochromatic blue. It has kind of grown on me.

Chris Sem

Hmmm, this looks an awful lot like a City Hunter from the Armoury.


Hello Simon,
Good to read your thoughts and impressions in addition to Tony’s—it’s quite revealing of the fact that everyone wears and feels a similar piece of clothing with another intention and style.
In my case, I had a more classic Borestière made as it fitted my height better. Also quite subdued in charcoal flannel with brown contrast patches and the domed buttons. I really like the make and the style but have difficulties wearing it because of the rather large sleeves (that have to be turned-over in addition).
My intention for it was to replace a Sports Jacket without becoming too informal as would a chore jacket. But, as I still want to wear it layered underneath a coat, it is not optimal because of the sleeves and I believe that a summer version would still be too roomy. Probably better to go for the Bores style that you chose.
Best, Laurent


It probably could but somehow it does not feel right for me. Am not much of a knit person and I’m the colder season, you’d want a proper coat for warmth. But I’ll try in autum, as spring somehow got cancelled this year ?
Best, Laurent

roger e. sack

The dark jacket may obscure some details,
Does it retain the breast pocket of the Forestiere?
Also, are the lower pockets patch.

Thank you .
Roger E. Sack

Menlo Park, CA, USA


Hi Simon,
Christophe from Chato Lufsen has added a RTW ‘Easy Borès’ version to the website, which is unlined, in both ‘beige’ – a natural linen (which is a lovely muted greige-y flax, the perfect foil to blacks, greys, browns, denim etc). There’s also a ‘marine’ version and I hear a moleskin version coming later. Made in Poland they’re slightly less costly, but still a lovely piece. I’ve been wearing the beige a lot lately, and it’s perfect for adding a touch of restrained panache to an outfit that would otherwise feel staid with the traditional blazer.