Seoul: A menswear shopping guide

December 13th 2023

  Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...

Seoul: A menswear shopping guide

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I think that would be good with khaki, no worries there. I do think it would be a bit more casual and workwear-like than the Drake's, but hard to say for certain having not seen it in person...

Bags - Belts and walletsDecember 13th 2023

Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!

December 8th 2023

Permanent Style reader, this is not for you. This is intended for your wife/husband/partner/child/dog, in an attempt to help source a Christmas present for someone who, let’s face it, is very fussy in general but particularly about clothing. ...

Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!

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I'd go off the shoes primarily, and I think both suede or leather would be fine, I don't think leather would be too smart...

Belts and wallets - Black tieDecember 8th 2023

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

October 31st 2022

L’Impermeabile gilet, at John Simons £435 This lightly waxed gilet, particularly in the pale beige colour, is reminiscent of the Eddie Bauer style that has become popular in recent years. It’s 100% cotton on the outside though, whi...

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

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It looks OK Jake - a little short perhaps, a little plain, and I guess not the highest quality from J Crew, but probably a decent option. Hard to say much about fabric or shape just from images...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2022

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

August 29th 2022

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

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Probably a size up, you don't want them to be too tight...

Jackets - Socks and underwearAugust 29th 2022

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

August 5th 2022

Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly purple. But it’s still a...

Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock

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Absolutely. Unless you want a really fine dress sock, which most people don't, a little synthetic is fine...

Socks and underwearAugust 5th 2022

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

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Hello Paul. I don’t know how easy it is to physically see C&J in Geneva so here is a close up of their rough out suede leather in brown if that helps, as sometimes official website pictures are met that helpful. I ...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

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I can't really recommend them that much, because I haven't owned them - this post was more about the kind of things I would consider from a high-street brand, you'd need to try them out yourself. But at the higher end th...

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

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Thanks Simon!...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Inside the Bresciani sock factory, Spirano

March 22nd 2021

Following on from our recent article on Loro Piana, here is one more extract from my book The Finest Menswear in the World . It explains why Bresciani makes some of the finest socks – and importantly, what we mean by ‘the finest’ o...

Inside the Bresciani sock factory, Spirano

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Is this the same Mario who's wife was Lydia in Ponte San Marco in 94?...

Socks and underwearMarch 22nd 2021

The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...

November 4th 2020

Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely trainers and hoodies, the websit...

The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...

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Thanks John, interesting to hear. There's a piece coming up on gilets and vests (featuring this piece as part of it), so good to get your thoughts there as well...

Casual clothing - ShoesNovember 4th 2020

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

May 22nd 2020

Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for. Do they need specific colours, or materials? Well possibly, but ...

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

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Lindsay, I couldn't agree more. I bought a few pairs of linen and cotton socks from them last summer and it's ruined me -- apart from workout gear I only buy socks from them now. There are of course other purveyors of fi...

Socks and underwearMay 22nd 2020

My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ...

April 15th 2019

*My experience of this underwear in the months since has not been as good, and I would therefore not recommend it as highly. I experienced quality issues with both the waistband and the material* Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project ...

My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ...

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They have, yes, they're winding the business down...

Socks and underwear - April 15th 2019

Christmas gift list 2018

November 30th 2018

  It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...

Christmas gift list 2018

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Good point, no in a medium now. Though that is partially preference and partially me getting a bit bigger. I take medium now...

Belts and wallets - Hanks and scarvesNovember 30th 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....

Casual clothing - CoatsOctober 29th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

August 29th 2018

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

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Sorry to chime in here but as a 'Brompton' commuter (I hope that translates to an international audience), I'd love an article on decent clothes that can be cycled in. It's all too easy to default to jeans which is a sha...

Hats - Socks and underwearAugust 29th 2018

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouge...

March 20th 2017

1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One that was shown to me recently ...

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouge...

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I owe MCR an apology - they replied very quickly to my complaint and reassured me that although my password was shown in the email, the email itself was encrypted. So all-in-all a good response....

Hanks and scarves - Socks and underwearMarch 20th 2017

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

April 22nd 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three times every day, ...

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

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Thanks Charles, I didn't realise that about the different synthetic canopies...

Shoes - Socks and underwearApril 22nd 2016

Viccel over-the-calf socks

October 28th 2015

For the past month I have been testing Viccel socks, a Turkish manufacturer that pretty much only sells through its own website. If they tested well, I hoped Viccel would be a good value alternative for over-the-calf hosiery. There are several goo...

Viccel over-the-calf socks

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I recently ordered four pairs of "charcoal gray" Viccel socks and while they arrived, I found the color to be black rather than dark gray. I contacted Viccel and found their response time to be glacial (weeks to reply ba...

Socks and underwearOctober 28th 2015

New colours of the Perfect Socks

January 9th 2015

UPDATE: Bram is now offering free shipping for all orders of three socks or more, which include one Diamond Rib pair (our design above). Go through to checkout on the store and the shipping charge will be removed We had such a lovely response to...

New colours of the Perfect Socks

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They do not. Quel dommage....

Socks and underwearJanuary 9th 2015

The Perfect Socks – Permanent Style x Willi...

November 25th 2014

About 50% of Permanent Style collaborations never come to fruition. The quality’s not right, or the cut, or some other aspect just can’t be perfected. Often the lead time proves to be too long. It makes you realise how difficult...

The Perfect Socks – Permanent Style x Willi...

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Thin merino would be ideal from an odour and longevity perspective, but they might sweat a bit too much for you. Perhaps try and pair and see? If they don't work, you might actually be better with fairly normal cotton (n...

Socks and underwearNovember 25th 2014

William Abraham socks in HTSI

October 14th 2014

My latest column for How to Spend It is on the innovative Bram Frankel, creator of sock brand William Abraham. I continue to be impressed by Bram ever since I first helped launch the brand back in February. He is doing something truly original in m...

William Abraham socks in HTSI

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Hi Joseph, For year round, you'll need cotton. For style, generally the best at staying up is ribbed. And the best company for me is probably Bresciani, but most high-end sock makers are quite similar. If they're below t...

Socks and underwearOctober 14th 2014

William Abraham: behind the scenes

May 15th 2014

One of the first people I met in New York last week was Bram Frankel, founder of William Abraham socks. Bram’s product is nothing less than a step change for the industry – something few companies achieve in a business as conservative a...

William Abraham: behind the scenes

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I do that on knitwear too - works a treat...

Socks and underwearMay 15th 2014

Buying affordable luxury

March 28th 2014

Last month, a reader asked for some recommendations of “affordable luxury”. By this, I think he meant items that weren’t necessarily that expensive, but were nonetheless luxurious. The best (a little) money could buy. Buying the bes...

Buying affordable luxury

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Today, I received a very beautiful and, in my opinion, a vital sartorial accessory... A coin & key purse made by the leather goods firm Visconti. This, IMO is affordable luxury. This is the GINO Model. It has two zip...

Hanks and scarves - PerfumeMarch 28th 2014

William Abraham – innovative, luxury socks

February 13th 2014

In the past few years some of Europe’s bigger sock makers have been pushing their own branding and online sales. There is now far greater availability of high-quality over-the-calf socks, which is great. The problem is, the design element c...

William Abraham – innovative, luxury socks

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At this moment, my favourite sock is the Super Durable in cotton made by Manzarin and bought from Mes Chaussettes Rouge. I'm UK shoe size 12 but their size is up to 11.5 which is fine....

Socks and underwearFebruary 13th 2014

Charvet ties: the cost of choice

February 12th 2014

The cost of variety is rarely appreciated by consumers. Among all the things that make up the price of a piece of clothing – materials, labour, rent, tax, marketing, R&D – the waste implicit in a broad range is hardly ever conside...

Charvet ties: the cost of choice

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Is it possible to get hold of Charvet's knitted ties online or through mail order? I've searched everywhere for a black knit tie, but it seems less easy to get than one would suppose....

Socks and underwear - TiesFebruary 12th 2014