Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
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I think that can be nice Alex, certainly better than a coloured bow tie or cummerbund. Personally I'd still go with black, as that's the essence of black tie for me, but burgundy socks wouldn't be bad at all...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
Permanent Style reader, this is not for you. This is intended for your wife/husband/partner/child/dog, in an attempt to help source a Christmas present for someone who, let’s face it, is very fussy in general but particularly about clothing. ...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
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I'd go off the shoes primarily, and I think both suede or leather would be fine, I don't think leather would be too smart...
Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...
L’Impermeabile gilet, at John Simons £435 This lightly waxed gilet, particularly in the pale beige colour, is reminiscent of the Eddie Bauer style that has become popular in recent years. It’s 100% cotton on the outside though, whi...
Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...
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It looks OK Jake - a little short perhaps, a little plain, and I guess not the highest quality from J Crew, but probably a decent option. Hard to say much about fabric or shape just from images...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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So I guess the pair I pick for the trip is mostly about which is the most versatile and so useful for different outfits, rather than caring too much about a small point of fit. In terms of avoiding relegating trousers li...
Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock
Today’s article - a debut for someone I’ve long admired, Jason Jules - is an excellent example of why I like having these contributions on PS. I rarely wear contrast-coloured socks these days, particularly purple. But it’s still a...
Subtlety and drama: The appeal of the purple sock
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Personally I'd only wear black. But, if you were going to wear colour then better in a sock or boutonniere than a cummerbund or bow tie...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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Interesting, thanks Joe, yes you're right on the washing out. I haven't found one I'm afraid, apart from the occasional Anonymous-Ism pair. True!...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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This is a Spanish brand born in the end of the XX century. It chose an Italian name just to sell better abroad, convinced that even iniciated fashionists think that good taste is only Italian. Today, there are so many go...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks Simon!...
Inside the Bresciani sock factory, Spirano
Following on from our recent article on Loro Piana, here is one more extract from my book The Finest Menswear in the World . It explains why Bresciani makes some of the finest socks – and importantly, what we mean by ‘the finest’ o...
Inside the Bresciani sock factory, Spirano
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Is this the same Mario who's wife was Lydia in Ponte San Marco in 94?...
The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...
Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely trainers and hoodies, the websit...
The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...
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Thanks John, interesting to hear. There's a piece coming up on gilets and vests (featuring this piece as part of it), so good to get your thoughts there as well...
Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges
Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for. Do they need specific colours, or materials? Well possibly, but ...
Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges
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For all season, probably cotton lisle...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ...
*My experience of this underwear in the months since has not been as good, and I would therefore not recommend it as highly. I experienced quality issues with both the waistband and the material* Long-time readers may remember The Underwear Project ...
My new favourite underwear: Hamilton & Hare ...
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H&H are now closed....
Christmas gift list 2018
It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...
Christmas gift list 2018
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Good point, no in a medium now. Though that is partially preference and partially me getting a bit bigger. I take medium now...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...
Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
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Yes. That seems completely correct....
Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouge...
1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One that was shown to me recently ...
Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouge...
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I owe MCR an apology - they replied very quickly to my complaint and reassured me that although my password was shown in the email, the email itself was encrypted. So all-in-all a good response....
James Smith & Son umbrellas, London
The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three times every day, ...
James Smith & Son umbrellas, London
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Thanks Charles, I didn't realise that about the different synthetic canopies...
Viccel over-the-calf socks
For the past month I have been testing Viccel socks, a Turkish manufacturer that pretty much only sells through its own website. If they tested well, I hoped Viccel would be a good value alternative for over-the-calf hosiery. There are several goo...
Viccel over-the-calf socks
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I recently ordered four pairs of "charcoal gray" Viccel socks and while they arrived, I found the color to be black rather than dark gray. I contacted Viccel and found their response time to be glacial (weeks to reply ba...
New colours of the Perfect Socks
UPDATE: Bram is now offering free shipping for all orders of three socks or more, which include one Diamond Rib pair (our design above). Go through to checkout on the store and the shipping charge will be removed We had such a lovely response to...
New colours of the Perfect Socks
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They do not. Quel dommage....
The Perfect Socks – Permanent Style x Willi...
About 50% of Permanent Style collaborations never come to fruition. The quality’s not right, or the cut, or some other aspect just can’t be perfected. Often the lead time proves to be too long. It makes you realise how difficult...
The Perfect Socks – Permanent Style x Willi...
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Thin merino would be ideal from an odour and longevity perspective, but they might sweat a bit too much for you. Perhaps try and pair and see? If they don't work, you might actually be better with fairly normal cotton (n...
William Abraham socks in HTSI
My latest column for How to Spend It is on the innovative Bram Frankel, creator of sock brand William Abraham. I continue to be impressed by Bram ever since I first helped launch the brand back in February. He is doing something truly original in m...
William Abraham socks in HTSI
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Hi Joseph, For year round, you'll need cotton. For style, generally the best at staying up is ribbed. And the best company for me is probably Bresciani, but most high-end sock makers are quite similar. If they're below t...
William Abraham: behind the scenes
One of the first people I met in New York last week was Bram Frankel, founder of William Abraham socks. Bram’s product is nothing less than a step change for the industry – something few companies achieve in a business as conservative a...
William Abraham: behind the scenes
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I do that on knitwear too - works a treat...
Buying affordable luxury
Last month, a reader asked for some recommendations of “affordable luxury”. By this, I think he meant items that weren’t necessarily that expensive, but were nonetheless luxurious. The best (a little) money could buy. Buying the bes...
Buying affordable luxury
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Today, I received a very beautiful and, in my opinion, a vital sartorial accessory... A coin & key purse made by the leather goods firm Visconti. This, IMO is affordable luxury. This is the GINO Model. It has two zip...
William Abraham – innovative, luxury socks
In the past few years some of Europe’s bigger sock makers have been pushing their own branding and online sales. There is now far greater availability of high-quality over-the-calf socks, which is great. The problem is, the design element c...
William Abraham – innovative, luxury socks
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At this moment, my favourite sock is the Super Durable in cotton made by Manzarin and bought from Mes Chaussettes Rouge. I'm UK shoe size 12 but their size is up to 11.5 which is fine....
Charvet ties: the cost of choice
The cost of variety is rarely appreciated by consumers. Among all the things that make up the price of a piece of clothing – materials, labour, rent, tax, marketing, R&D – the waste implicit in a broad range is hardly ever conside...
Charvet ties: the cost of choice
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Is it possible to get hold of Charvet's knitted ties online or through mail order? I've searched everywhere for a black knit tie, but it seems less easy to get than one would suppose....