My old editor used to have a phrase I don’t see around much in journalism anymore – the ‘tail fin’ headline, intended to describe a headline that was mostly there for show, in the same way as a tail fin on a car.
Today’s headline is one of those. It’s not untrue, but it is mostly there to get your attention.
All of my socks are not from TM Lewin. But some of them are, and for a lot of Permanent Style readers, that will probably be shocking enough.
But first, let’s step back a bit. Around 15 years ago, when I first started buying quality tailoring, I bought into the idea that a real gentleman wore socks that reached just under the knee – often referred to as over-the-calf (OTC, above).
Socks this long were what men had worn traditionally, and from an elegance point of view they made perfect sense: a sock this long stayed up, it didn’t collapse around the ankle; and when you crossed your legs, a smooth expanse of hosiery was shown, rather than a bit of sock and then some pasty-white, hairy calf.
The logic still holds, but my problem was I took it too far (as many people do that get obsessed with a particular type of dressing). I wore OTC socks with not just tailoring, but jeans and chinos as well (although not shorts, thankfully).
I also thought I needed the finest socks, because I aspired to the finest tailoring. So all my socks were luxurious, ultrafine cotton from the likes of Bresciani, Gallo or Mazarin.
It was the style rationale that started to go for me first. Much as I loved the way OTC socks stayed up, there was something a little silly about wearing them with jeans. I often wore linen or wool ones, so they weren’t as smooth and silky, but still.
The quality rationale took a lot longer to fade. Even when I started wearing normal, mid-calf socks with casual trousers, I bought them from the same makers in the same fineness.
These socks were much worse at staying up than cheaper ones (often because they had fewer synthetics) and wore through really quickly. I looked after them well – delicate wash, hang dry – but still seemed to get holes all the time.
About two years ago, the quality rationale finally faded too. I bought a half dozen charcoal socks from TM Lewin (a cheaper shirt retailer, for those outside the UK) and found they stayed up better than my expensive ones, lasted three times as long, and were a third of the price.
The main reason they were cheaper and tougher was that they weren’t 100% cotton, only about 65%. But then more expensive casual socks, from likes of Japanese makers Tabio or AnonymousIsm, often have big synthetic components to them too.
Synthetics are bad from an environmental point of view, but from every other angle I think it makes sense. There’s less breathability without 100% cotton, but it’s not a difference I’ve ever noticed (if anyone else has, let me know). The only pure-cotton casual socks I now have are from workwear brands, and actually those seem to get damp and shapeless quite quickly.
I wouldn’t want more than 40% synthetic, but the TM Lewin ones have performed well over those two years. They stay up well, haven’t got any holes, and look good – not as fine or smart as the others I had previously, but that’s not what you want with casual trousers.
I’ve asked our friends what they wear in this department, and the most popular brand is Uniqlo (perhaps unsurprisingly) followed by H&M.
Lucas also asked people on social media last year what brands they used, and tried Calzedonia on the back of that. They’ve done very well for him, and they are a touch cheaper (£5 a pair compared to £10 at TM Lewin, Uniqlo also around £).
The other thing these brands often lack is a good range of colours – somewhere like TM Lewin only has standard business ones, navy, black and charcoal, while other brands sometimes lack tasteful colours. I often find I pick some up from AnonymousIsm at Trunk (below) because they’ll have a nicer grey marl, or a good olive green.
As for long socks, I still buy fine cotton ones but it’s less of an issue because I wear them less. I’m also more likely to err away from the ultrafine, gauzy variety, or the cashmere-mix options, in the name of longevity.
I might also try someone like Calzedonia in the future for long socks, at least as a back-up option. When I’m getting dressed up in a suit and tie for something special, I’m happy to wear the finest socks, but day-to-day in the office – perhaps with tailored trousers and a knit and coat – I don’t need that level of quality.
Interestingly, I don’t think this turn towards cheaper socks is about money, because I spend very large sums of money on other things. It feels more like it’s about aligning expenditure with value. Bespoke tailoring is wildly expensive, but I feel the value in every stitch of that jacket; fine socks feel like they give me very little, and for less time too.
I’m interested in what cheaper socks readers wear, given we have such a wonderful group of discerning consumers here. There are so many mainstream brands, and lots I will have missed.
That goes for long socks too. When I’ve tried more durable long socks, they always seem to push too far in the other direction. That was the case with the super-durable socks I tried from Mes Chaussettes Rouges years ago, and with ones from the Turkish company Viccel too – they were much tougher, emphasising ultimate wear resistance, and as a result lost too much in the feel. It feels like the middle-ground there would be the best option.
Readers often ask what they should spend more and less money on, as everything we cover is expensive. I’d say socks are one thing I’d definitely put further down the list, but it took me a long time to realise that.
I use MCR super-durable but may have a look at Calzedonia.
Simon, I don’t know where else to ask this: after the closure of Hamilton and Hare, where do you buy underwear?
Sunspel usually. It’s a little expensive but they’ve lasted very well for me
Simon, this reminds me of an article you’ve written on Massimo Dutti a while ago. I think you mentioned that you’d buy their underwear if it wasn’t for the logo on the waistband. It turns out they’ve changed that. They now offer perfect mostly unbranded (except for inside tag and a tiny logo on the buttons) 100% cotton boxers.
Oh really? Interesting, thanks.
That article on Massimo Dutti is here by the way, for others. It was meant less as something just on them, but more on what I would be more likely to buy from a cheaper brand (more T-shirts and underwear for example, not leather or dress shoes)
Uniqlo is the best brand for inexpensive boxer shorts – classic designs, top quality, wash superbly, good rise and fit at a great price.
Do you still cycle regularly, Simon? I commute by bike and I’ve had small holes quickly appear in the crotch of nearly every brand of underwear I’ve tried, at many price points.
There must be someone out there making underwear with cyclists in mind. I think Rapha did at one point but they don’t seem to anymore.
(Apologies for taking this thread even further off topic.)
Ha! No worries. I do, but in bib shorts I’m afraid so no help there.
I do remember the Rapha ones, I think they were merino with a thin pad
I’m at a loss with underwear – got tired of the super-high rise of the Hilditch & Key ones I always used to wear under a suit, which meant you struggled to walk upstairs unless they were under your armpits; moved to less formal M&S plain white jersey boxers from the classic/old man’s range – a bit of stretch, a simple fly, and, most importantly, fully-enclosed elastic in the waistband. They’re discontinued and I can’t find anything similar without raw elastic against the skin. Suggestions welcome.
For casual wear, I’m a big fan of Community Clothing’s offerings; UK-made, and excellent value. I particularly like their ecru sports socks with penny loafers for that ivy look (and at about 1/3rd of the price of the posh Japanese ones I’d previously bought).
Very useful, thanks Jakob
Second the recommendation for Community Clothing, excellent value and I really like the company ethos in general
Third for CC from me. I have a woollen roll neck jumper, fantastic value.
I should give those a try. I do love their cotton walking socks but I don’t care much for the plain navy pair I have. Those are much thinner though.
Community Clothing socks are mostly excellent.
For casual wear in cooler weather, Next do a decent range of heavyweight socks, as they call them (https://www.next.co.uk/style/st428379/e00239). They come in multipacks covering most colors to match with various shades of denim, fatigues, workwear pants etc… They work out at around £3-5 a pair and I’ve had a good experience with them.
I’ve had the same experience with these.
I have some wool OTC socks from Pantherella. I only wear them occasionally, but both pairs (one 100% wool, the other 70% wool 30% nylon) developed holes (strangely, in the calf bit of the socks) after only a handful of wears each. I tend to wear crew socks with suits as the OTC socks are expensive and I feel a little burnt from it. Luckily I never cross my legs so I never show off any leg anyway!
My casual socks are not cheap ones, I petty much exclusively wear Darn Tough – the lifestyle ones as others are too thick for me. I find them plenty comfortable all year round.
Socks is one area I am okay with synthetics, but I try to avoid polyester as I find they smell worse. I try to stick to nylon and a bit of elastane.
I’ve tried Pantherella and as with you holes appeared after a (very, very) few wears.
For me, unless cotton is on the thicker side, it feels too thin and get damp real easy. For that sake, I wear merino mix ones from Falke or Pantherella or linen ones for the warmer months. Still have cotton ones, but I dont like them as much, also because they are a bit stiffer in the feel. Another thing I’ve had issues with on over the calf socks, is the size over the actual calf. Most italian brands are too small for me, and I dont have that big of calves, just around 40 cm. Falke is best here, Pantherella is good too.
On shorter socks, I am still looking for a brand that does them well, so maybe Ill try TM Levin, because all other keeps falling down, and its not a good look, nor a pleasant feel.
Thanks Nicolas. Good point on wool over cotton. My feet get too hot for wool unfortunately
Even on days like today? In leather shoes out and about?
Have you tried thinner merino rather than thicker wool socks?
Yes Con, and yes I have, I’ve tried a few brands as well
I find that interesting, since I too am very warm. Maybe its the difference in climate. Sweden is in general cold up until even the end of April (everyone here know it can be below zero during our 1st May celebrations) and then it gets warmer real quick. So we go from winter wear to summer wear in a matter of weeks. Hence, I find that the fine cotton doesnt quite find its place here. Also, Falke is a mix of merino/cotton so maybe that makes a bit of a different.
More than 10% polyester or nylon makes my feet sweat. Myy OTC socks from Pantherella, 90% wool or 100% cotton. They were bought from several stores in Jermyn Street. I’ve never had any problems with holes in the calf.
I wear thick shorter socks (at least 90% cotton) under chinos, cords and moleskins. They were bought from Corgi, Scott Nichol and Cordings. Scott Nichol is a Pantherella brand and I believe that Cordings socks are also made by Pantherella. No problems so far.
My default sock supplier is Mes Chaussettes Rouge and Manzarin Knee High Super Durable socks or their knee high linen socks for Summer. Great and very durable socks. Sometimes I’ll opt for the ordinary cotton lisle knee high socks or some of their Brescianie offerings.
I can recommend them and the service is absolutely unique and superb. One thing I will point out. Order more than five or six pairs and you may be “hammered” for customs duty to the UK!!
I would suggest Uniqlo all the way. Great variety of colours, OTC and they feel like suitably (but not overly!) thick and good quality. And I picked up 4 x £12.50 the other day. I compare them much more favourably to some Panthera high quality cotton beige socks I bought for considerably more, which got holes in within months. I agree Simon, economise on basics like this. I think if your socks broadly match the trousers, OTC, haven’t faded or frayed into oblivion, that’s all you want.
Wow – never thought I had such strong opinions on socks…
I never noticed Uniqlo havde over the calf socks! I will have to swing by and check.
I never felt silly about wearing long socks with jeans, as long as it is during the winter. It is a practical thing, and I am usually wearing boots so one would have to be looking for a very long time, and from a very weird angle, to realize that I have over the calf socks.
In the long sock department, I buy 75% wool, 25% polyamide socks from a Danish brand called Egtved. They are less than half the price of an OTC pair from Falke for example, and they have lasted for a very long time. I have recently also bought a pair from them which has a cotton layer inside and a wool layer outside, I’m trying them out but so far they feel very nice.
For short, cheaper socks I have only tried Uniqlo. They do last but I have found they are not so great at staying up as the mid calf socks from Falke or Pantherella.
For no show socks, look no further than Uniqlo. They have zero heel slippage even after years of use. I have also tried the H&M ones but they slip from the heel after walking 10 steps. Terrible.
Hi Dario
How does the Egtved and Falke compare? They seem to only come in 2 sizes and from where do you buy them Egtved?
Can’t really compare them as they are not the same material… The Falkes I buy are fine cotton, so the durability is not as good. If I remember correctly, the size I buy is “40-45” and they fit me well (I’m a 42).
If you are in Copenhagen or around, I usually buy in Illum. Magasin also has a smaller selection (which sadly does not include the over the calf socks).
I always wear otc socks, even with jeans and chinos. It gives me a good feeling to know that no hair will be exposed no matter what. My absolute favorite brand is “Di Carlo”. They are fine enough for me, 100 % cotton and pretty durable. The price is great also. They are my go-to socks for over five years now. I also like the no-show socks by Uniqlo. They sit well and are perfect for loafers in the summer. From my experience they are way better then the ones I had from much more expensive makers.
Di Carlo was a brand I have been buying but couldn’t recall the name! Thanks!
You‘re very welcome, Stephan.
I did forget to add that I’m very open to alternative suppliers of good hosiery. One that comes to mind is Falke ?
As mentioned in your article, Uniqlo socks are perfect. Tons of color options, nice thickness, last forever, and almost unbeatable price. I’ve been wearing them for 15 years and unless they drastically change the product, I’m not inclined to ever buy anything else.
Same here. I used to buy the allegedly super durable ones from Mes Chausettes Rouges, and the Uniqlo ones turned out to be more durable for a quarter of the price. Go figure.
In my experience, I find that thin merino wool socks from Pantherella (Laburnum model, €22) works year round. I have a few offwhite cotton/synthetic socks from H&M which I occasionally use with loafers.
However, whenever I use cotton socks with leather shoes there is incessant squeaking. I don’t know why, but I suspect it has something to do with dampness of the cotton material. This rarely, if ever, happens with my wool socks – which is why I swear by them.
I thought they had gone out of business? I wear almost exclusively Falke socks, all 100% cotton or close to 100%, with a few merino wool here and there. They will often have sales online (prices are cheaper in the EU, so I have them shipped to my parents in France), or when Selfridges has sales.
Fine socks are a surprisingly “bad” product seeing how delicate they are. Are those TM lewing still over the calf? why not Viccel (now celchuk)? i use those and uniqlo
No they’re not – I don’t have an OTC replacement yet.
Viccel I found too tough and un-fine. Too far away from the superfine ones. Something in the middle would be better
Simon, for finer OTC socks, you might want to try the Tiago model from Falke. They are made of 93% organic Fil d’Ecosse cotton, 5% polyamide and 2% elastane. A pair OTC socks costs EUR 24, the normal model EUR 18.
Almost all my socks are the Tiago model, OTC and normal socks, and I can attest that they are very durable and do not loose colour. There are 38 colours for OTC and 41 colours for normal socks.
https://www.falke.com/at_de/p/tiago-herren-kniestruempfe/15792_5197/
Of fine socks, I’ve noted the ones Cabourn sell as own brand have really very good longevity – and I walk a lot. Chup are the direct opposite I’m afraid. Done in a couple of months if you’re a walker. MIddle ground, Rototo are pretty good. A-ism on the go currently – they seem very promising.
Hi Simon, I’ve found linen socks to be lovely in the warmer months.
Also, what are those suede chukka boots in the third image. Thanks!
Those are my Ugolini boots – reviewed a couple of years ago on here
Nearly all my socks are from Uniqlo these days. They are excellent in terms of price and value. Some of them tend to ride down a bit, especially if I wear my loafers which have some heel slip at times… but other than that they are great. Also some of the colors are great. Burgundy or the darker shade of green get used quite a lot by me to add some interest.
I recently got some “secret / ankle” Falke socks and found them to be good, cut low enough to actually be hidden with driving shoes and the seams were fine enough not to press / leave a mark on my feet.
Otherwise Panthrella (for thicker) or London Sock Co (for finer). My recent purchase from the former haven’t held up well though with stitching coming out at the top of the sock.
I have some super fine OTC Canali’s which I have found just collapse (maybe a size too big?).
It seems I’m an outlier in having only bad experiences with Uniqlo socks! I’ve only ever been disappointed by how quickly they’ve developed holes, so stopped buying them a couple of years ago.
Pantherella ‘Danvers’ OTC cotton lisle (with 30% nylon) are superb, in my opinion – great longevity, wide range of colours, excellent fit, and they feel to me more luxurious than the £16 ish price tag would suggest.
(My experience with Pantherella wool and cashmere OTC has not been so good, by the way, in line with what other commenters have mentioned – those little holes in the calf area?!)
For casual calf-length socks, I have a selection of Ralph Lauren bought for about $5 per pair in a Macy’s sale five or six years ago, which are still going strong – I don’t think RL sell the same ones any more, unfortunately, so I will forever regret not buying twice as many at that price!
Something I would add to the discussion is sizing and fit: while many retailers including Uniqlo offer one standard size, e.g. UK 8-11 (how can that sock possibly fit both a size 8 and a size 11 foot properly?!) brands like Pantherella offer more sizing options as standard – S (6-7), M (7.5-9.5), L (10-12) and XL. So for me, even if quality of make and materials were exactly the same, I would still pay a premium for a more accurate fit.
Nice additional point W, thank you
I wear OTC-socks with little holes in the calf area…
For affordable cotton, M&S. I still own a few pairs I bought back in 2017 and they’ve seen a lot of wear (of course in rotation with other ones but still that’s a really really long time). No other brand has held up as nicely in my experience, and the price is more than agreeable.
Corgi have a large range of socks of various material mixes and lengths that last really well. British made as well if that appeals to you.
agreed- excellent small Welsh company with a Royal Warrant from Charles to boot!
Over the last year or so I’ve tried different brands of OTC, for the same reasons Simon lists in his article. To my frustration I find that expensive brands like Pantherella and Bresciani get holes after one or two times use.
I picked up two pairs from Sozzi Milano on a recent trip to Italy, and are very satisfied with them. Also, all of my socks from Mes Chaussettes Rouge are very good quality.
The same ~30% synthetic factor applies for T-shirts as well. Doesn’t compromise breathing in significant manner, triples the life and helps keep shape. There might be difference in feeling but not something I notice or consider an issue.
From environmental standpont, producing and recycling 3 cotton tees vs 1 70/30 mix?
I’m not saying there aren’t arguments to go for 100%cotton but mix can be much more useful than some people realise.
Interesting, thank you. I’ve always had good longevity with pure cotton in T-shirts. I wonder whether make and thickness makes a difference there
It’s quite complicated topic to go deep in because of all the various factors from manufacture, care, use scenario or even persons biochemistry can affect the longevity. Not to go into too many details but mine have been in constant rotation and are now nearly 15 years old. No noticeable damage aside from slight fading of colour, they will make it to 20. At 7€ a piece, the value is astronomical, unfortunately discontinued at the moment.
I buy Corgi socks
Hi Simon,
I think the key point you make is “ aligning expenditure with value”. Whilst there is an element of subjectivity on value , I think it’s a good principle. Generally I can’t see how most people could differentiate on socks from any distance and why would they? Life is too short! I only sometimes notice a standout colour, although extremely rarely.
On a technical point, I am given to understand, that it’s good to have an proportion of synthetic mixed with cotton as the former has a wicking effect and dries quicker, thereby reducing its the sock becoming soaked, also an element of reinforcement on toes and heels.
Re your question there are two brands I would mention:
1 Almost too obvious, Marks and Spencer. Who have some with synthetic element (I think sustainability has its limits and touch in socks in not going to cause a material environmental impact). Mine last ages although I haven’t been complimented on them!
2. Crew Clothing (not J Crew) in the UK that sell a range with bamboo in the mix. Mine have held up well. They also do a nice thicker sock for colder weather and boots, which they sometimes label as rugby socks , which one hardly notices between a boot and jeans.
Totally legit topic – I’ve given a lot of thought to this in the past! Nerdy, yes.
I can vouch for Japanese brands Anonymous Ism and Rototo. Welsh brand Corgi are worth considering.
I love rototo for boot socks (and home socks for my wife). Haven’t tried their thinner variants. After a long stint as an M&S adherent I’m now a Uniqlo man through and through. Reasonably priced, comfortable, hold up well, array of colours. I tried colourful standard and they were nothing like as good or long lasting.
They are probably the opposite of “fine socks” but I do love the Rototo double-faced socks for wearing with boots or just around the house. I saw them described somewhere as a sweatshirt for your feet which, despite sounding pretty weird, feels fairly accurate
French quality brand DoréDoré for winter, e.g. they have some classic argyle patterns too.
German Falke for both shoulder season (e.g. Falke Airport) and for summer. Falke’s Tiago 94% cotton comes in lots of colours, not all to my taste and a little shiny too, but hey, their cotton holds up well. And they’re all over the calf.
Apart from that mending holes is rather easy, isn’t it, while it extends the life of a sock by two or three times.
HI Simon, thanks for the article, very interesting!
Just for the sake of clarity as TM Lewin is not very specific on their website: the socks you are referencing to are mid-calf or over the calf?
Thanks in advance!
Mid-calf.
I actually did the opposite and started wearing knee-high socks with chinos and jeans for the first time this year. In November, I picked up four pairs of German army socks, and they were a total revelation for me. They’re a chunky blend of wool, cotton, and some synthetic fibers—quite itchy, but in a good way. I love how they keep my legs warm; it’s a completely new experience. The look is great, too, especially when they start to pile up a little. Some images in Take Ivy show students wearing thick (and, of course, white) wool socks with loafers, and there’s something really appealing about that. Unfortunately, the color options are pretty limited—you can only get them in olive or gray.
Interesting, thanks Philipp. Definitely makes more sense when you have a casual material like that
I buy from TM Lewin too.
Also super fine from the London shirt makers – they feel lovely but are super delicate. Austin Reed used to do some beautiful fine ones in a wide colour range that used to be a staple purchase for years before they went under.
Now mainly from M&S – they have launched a new range in different colours that I spotted recently in store – cotton mix and wool mix in maybe ten different colour ways and I will be picking up a few and seeing how they last.
Bear in mind these are all mid calf length.
My favorite casual socks were from the now-defunct MongolWear, and made of yak fiber. They were remarkable, soft and warm enough for the coldest of winter days, but so moisture-wicking that they kept my feet dry on the hottest of summer days (a feat merino doesn’t come close to matching). Unsurprisingly I wore through them rather quickly with frequent wear.
I’ve since replaced them with yak fiber socks from Happy Yak, which aren’t quite as miraculous as the MongolWear, but still quite good.
If you’re willing to give quality casual socks another go, also consider the preposterously comfortable Supermerino from American Trench.
Your post on socks is timely. I have just bought another four pairs of mid-calf cotton socks from Dapper Classics. I have tried other brands such as Bresciani mid-calf which do not stay up for me. I go for the more clasics patterns, or no patterns at all – no skull-and-crossbones for me. The color range at Dapper Classics is excellent, with a lot of subtlety. Good value and they often have a ‘buy four, pay for three’ promotion. They have worn well too over several years. I don’t go anywhere else for socks now.
On a general sock levitation note. With the best will in the world, gravity will drag mid-calf socks down over time. When I wear more tailored clothing I use sock garters. I simply don’t understand the modern aversion to these excellent gadgets. They work, they are comfortable, and my wife doesn’t laugh at me (not about the sock garters anyway).
Thanks John. I think it’s the last point about laughing that is the issue for most people. They feel a little fussy and silly to most – but all power to you given they work for you
What brand do you use for different color socks? White, for example?
The ones above like AnonymousIsm mostly
Interesting – might have to pop down to Lewin! It’s been a while!!
I’ve fallen in love with Pantherella, over calf, merino wool in charcoal.
My daily drivers, £16 per pair, last about 2 years, but the merino wool is a game changer!
Warm in the winter, cool in the summer. Shoes always feel fresh, feet never sweaty.
I think a good investment!
I wear OTC bought at mes chaussettes rouges as they have beautiful colours and patterns, but I also wear shorter socks and my favourites are from Hackett , nice in colours and patterns, they are very resistant, and some unicolour from Polo, also long lasting. I stopped with cashmere , not resistant
In my expérience Pantharella was really good and Anatomica stocks some US made white socks that are the best I ever tried, very durable and great shape.
Nice. I feel like Pantherella are getting the most appreciation here for OTC
Ironically, I wear OTC socks with casual trousers mostly because for much of the year here it’s too cold for me to want to wear something as thermally flimsy as jeans without the extra layer of warmth. In summer I often wear below-ankle socks when I’m not in tailoring, so I must admit that the “modern” mid-calf sock largely doesn’t appeal to me, except for sporting purposes. I like the MCR super-durable line but especially for wearing with boots I wouldn’t mind finding something cheaper (boots have a way of destroying even the most durable socks), so I might well try TM Lewin.
I’ve found wool socks (which tend to include some nylon) far more durable than cotton. They all breathe better. Most are from Pantherella. Outsize of high summer, I wear them year around.
I have been obsessed for a while with the “ribbed right angle” socks from Muji. The cotton is a bit sturdier than Uniqlo, and they come in sizes (though that can be a stock issue, of course). I’ve always found that Uniqlo socks fall down too much for my liking. The texture of the knit on Muji isn’t as soft as Uniqlo, but in a way that I like. The taupe-ish color looks amazing with any brown shoe, and the light gray and charcoal are also very versatile. Also, I replaced all of my underwear a few years ago with Muji’s boxer briefs, and I couldn’t be happier, especially for the price. Anyway, never been a fan of Muji’s other cult items (like the stationary) but I absolutely swear by the socks and underwear).
The other great ones I found recently are from Arket. This is frustrating as someone who lives in the States since they don’t sell here, but I go to the EU or UK often enough to grab a few pairs a couple times a year. I mostly do Pantherella for my dress socks, though I also like Sid Mashburn.
Finally, I was going to say that any skier can tell you that cotton socks are awful at wicking sweat which is why, even if they’re more breathable, they will make your feet feel damp in hot weather. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had friends who are new to skiing complain that their boots aren’t properly waterproof when actually they just made the rookie mistake of wearing cotton instead of merino socks—their feet are clammy, not wet from snow!
Interesting Ben, thanks, both on Muji and on skiing
I wear Falke ski socks, labelled for left and right foot, in Wintertime at home when not skiing. They stay up and are very warm.
If I wear boots not much sock is visible. Even with shoes, the colour/pattern of the sock is a lower priority in cold weather.
I have to admit that OTC socks are one of my weaknesses and have well over 20 pairs in various fabrics and mixes. Mes Chausettes Rouge Super Solide in wool are wonderful but pricey even though they last for a least a couple of years. Their shadow stripe versions in cotton are just beautiful and I have two pairs, one of grey and copper and the other of black and purple that look fantastic with grey trousers and brown and black shoes respectively. Then there are some cotton and cashmere ones from Halison in Japan which have lasted well over three years and are just as warm and comfortable as any wool or pure cotton versions.
Like Simon did in the past, I wear OTC socks with jeans and cotton trousers and even though I have some linen ones the hot and humid summers here in Japan make them almost unbearable any time after mid June.
One more reason that I wear OTC socks most of the time is that I had DVT after a flight and hence economy class syndrome which led to a week in hospital and a course of blood thinning drugs. A couple of doctors advised me to try long socks as way of fending off any reoccurrence and that has stayed with me ever since.
As funny as it may seem, Uniqlo in Japan only has large sizes (UK 9+) online so that is another reason I don’t buy them. If I have order socks online to get my size (UK 10) then I am going to order nice ones that last a little longer as well looking and feeling nicer than most.
I get my socks from Uniqlo and my pants and pyjamas from M&S. I’m happy to spend money on jackets, suits and shoes but really can’t justify doing so for something that is never really on show.
I still wear socks almost exclusively from Charles Tyrwhitt, although that is probably mostly because I used to work there and can still get staff discount. They’re comfy enough, last decently, and I like the slightly patterned ones that just add a bit of texture to the colour. I have also started wearing darn tough ankle socks for any sport use (gym, running), as well as for hiking/camping which seem to be going fairly well
I prefer 10% max synthetic. 30-50% synthetic doesn’t allow the main natural fibres to perform as it should.
I definitely notice clamminess when there is too much synthetic – the optimal for me is well below 10% whether that’s a cotton sock for the warmer months or a wool sock for the cold season.
Good quality socks are hard to come by. So many manufacturers put too much synthetic in.
Years ago I managed to get 100% Merino (or close to 100%) socks from Debenhams. Luckily, I bought around 3 x dozen pairs so they lasted for a very long time – I still have one pair left from that purchase that has not sprung holes as of yet. I’ve kept an eye out when shopping over the years and unfortunately have not been able to find an equivalent replacement. They are great in winter. Thin, but not not ultra thin, yet my feet stay toasty.
Had I known I wouldn’t have been bale to replace them easily I’d have learned to darn sooner!
Not sure how easy to find they are in the UK, but Darn Tough’s “lifestyle” socks are it for casual wear. Not too thick, not too thin, comfy in nearly all weather (sweltering heat is their worst environ), and their plain navy is a deep shade that goes with basically everything. Some good patterns too if that’s your bag
They used to be a pain to get in the UK but they have a UK website now, though not as many options as in the US.
I can recommend a Scottish brand Pairs (woven in Portugal i think): their merino socks are great. £10 a pair, some synthetics in them but not much (from memory c. 20%), durable, seem to wash better and are, for me at least, more comfortable than cotton. Fairly simple range, solid colours only. I find them comfortable in summer as well as winter.
I’m generally a huge fan of Uniqlo but don’t really like their socks. I think the cotton doesn’t wash well and becomes uncomfortable.
I almost always wear Donegal Socks, but those are very thick and woollen. The nicest socks I have had are the wool/cotton blend ones from Corgi, they are lovely and soft but do slip down in some shoes.
I do agree with Uniqlo being at a very good price/quality ratio: Very cheap, and above average quality. They are my go to everyday socks. (That is once I have won my battle against Uniqlo‘s terrible website which becomes more slow and less user friendly with every update…)
However I feel there‘s also a place for the likes of Mes Chaussettes Rouges. Sure they are more expensive, and it‘s „just socks“. But not all decisions must be rational, if they were there was no place for any of the finer things in life. Nobody „needs“ a Jaeger-LeCoultre, a bespoke suit or Michelin dining. But we sure all like it.
Such odd timing – i just had a mass clear out of socks and a re-purchase the other week. many were very fine socks that i had held onto for that little bit too long.
Out of all the really good ones i bought, a couple of pairs from Gaziano & Girling were probable the most superior (made by pantherella i think?) and held up for many years – but it was time to say goodbye.
I have just bought a few batches from Reiss, Next Signature and everyones favourate M&S.. the M&S fine autograph ones so far are holding up really well – £7 per pair..
All of them are fine enough to wear with smart attire – but not too fine they cant work smart casual or wear out after a few months of good use.
I’ve worn OTC as long as I can remember, and, having lived all over the world, in various climates, have experimented with a variety of manufacturers. Over a decade ago, when I finally retired in Berlin, I settled on Falke for summer and Lusana for winter. The Falke model I wear is Number 10, with a light ribbing which does not leave an impression on my flesh. The fil d’Ecosse, a mixture of 93% Egyptian cotton and 7% polyamide, comes in 27 colours. (No. 9, nearly identical but without ribbing, comes in 34 colours.) All are available via the Falke website; I have found the selection in Falke’s stores in Germany disappointing. They are machine-washable and – contrary to the care advice – I have dried them in the dryer with no ill effect. The Austrian firm Lusana makes stunning cable-stich OTC socks in a mixture of 70% wool and 30% polyamide, in 15 colours. They are available from Loden-Frey at its Munich flagship and on-line. I wash them by hand, and they seem to last forever. These may not be the ideal sources for readers in post-Brexit Britain, but are well worth a look when visiting the Continent.
Its nice to know that more people are taking an easy option on socks!
For fun colors, I use Uniqlo, the price and the feel are great and seem hard to beat.
I also have a few pairs of Darn Toughs Standard No Cushionsocks. They fit well in my ranger mocs, loafers and sneakers and are incredibly durable. They dont look as polished as the Uniqlo ones though, but with sneakers/ranger mocs and very casual outfits I dont mind.
I also wanted to say, you gave me tips on the Alden LHS vs the Full Strap. I ended up going with the LHS, they are fantastic! I got a special makeup from Dashing Chicago with a tassel. They remind me of old GH Bass tassel loafers.
My go to socks for years have been the Uniqlo socks, got em in multiple shades of grey, taupe/off white, maroon, dark green, and a blush pink (to match the missus). If I’m doing any kind of heavy work, hiking, or camping, I’ll grab some Darn Tough Vermont socks which are stellar for their use case. What I have always struggled with is finding a good over the calf dress sock for when I’m wearing tailored trousers. Having US size 14 feet and lifter’s calves do me no favors in finding any that would go high enough.
For casual, ivy style – hear me out – Costco own brand made in USA white sports socks are unbeatable
Corgi are excellent too. Some of their own designs are quite naff but many great and they make for Drake’s. Their factory sale is a delight.
Socks are one of the things I always notice. And one can tell expensive socks from cheap socks – it’s almost always immediately obvious. Cheap socks ruin an outfit, for me.
My socks are a mixture of Corgi and Pantharella (some OTC, most not), bought in bulk around a decade ago when there were tons of them in TK Maxx, and made in USA boot socks from Costco – thick, warm, comfortable, wash well and less than £20 for 4 pairs.
Dear Simon, a lot of my RTW trousers (english flannel and english high twist) tend to stick to my shins and calfs, therefore not hanging well. I know this is mostly about the cut and probably also the lining of the trousers, but is there anything I could consider on the sock-side of the equation? I almost exclusively wear 95-100 % cotton OTC socks from Falke or Suitsupply. (Regarding the cut: I think the trousers already are a proportionate and comfortable cut for me with an opening between 20-21 cm. So there is not much leeway within my taste to go even wider.) Thanks!
I don’t think there is much on the socks in my experience. I used to have that issue with narrow trousers, and wool v cotton v finer cottons didn’t make any difference unfortunately
Thanks! Do you have your trousers fully lined all the way down? Or is it all about the cut?
Usually half lined. Fully lined can help a bit, but find it annoying with fully lining. Feels like you’re wearing the lining rather than the trouser material
Hello, I use wool OTC socks and linen OTC in the Summer, as Those materials sticks a lot less.
I dont wear much tailoring like most guys here but since i got the carhartt socks i never looked back. Durable, fit perfect, thick one, what else should i ask for ?
For rugged, durable, last forever — as I mentioned somewhere else on this thread — Smartwools are excellent. last forever.
They have a range of styles — some that would compete with the Carhartt market and some on the “nicer”, ever so slightly dressier side.
Spending a lot of money on the nicest socks doesn’t make any financial sense for me. I have the feet of a hobbit, and they are shaped like spades, my big toe punches holes through socks at a rate that is alarming. Cheaper socks is the way to go for me.
I wear mostly mid length wool blend socks from brands like darn tough and farm to feet in solid colors. I find wool to handle sweat better and last perfectly long enough, and from either of those two brands they’re easy to find in a midweight that’s great for balancing insulation with cushion.
Pantherella for me – though I like a striped sock and their colours are just the right level of subdued (well some of them). I rarely wear over the calf – only on cold winter days with dress shoes as I find they do actually keep me warmer (though striped long socks do have a bit of a “auditioning to be a witch” vibe).
I have a couple of pairs of Dekka white skater socks I wear casually in the summer that I like a lot.
Another shout out for Falke for everyday socks, specifically the airport socks. Cotton on the inside, merino on the outside. Very durable and hold their colour well.
I think you are off here. First of all, socks should be wool or linen. Cotton socks are terrible. Linen for the summer, wool for every other season. I have wool super durables from Mazarin that have lasted me five years now. And I use them quite hard. The thinner version of these wool super durables are not very hot (granted I am from Norway, so climate runs pretty cold) either.
And I seriously don’t get why you want to wear calf high just because you’re in jeans or chinos. I mean, one doesn’t want to show too much leg hair in jeans either? Wearing super fines with jeans I agree don’t work of course,
I have a few cotton pairs from the London Sock Company. I like their plain ones, although have found the patterned ones can shrink when washed.
Nowadays I almost exclusively use Uniqlo socks. A few years ago I was quite keen on finding Falke socks on sale and I also tried Viccel. I loved the socks from both brands but wearing the same 10 pair over and over, washing and wearing again (hang drying but no delicate wash) made them last 5-8 months and I got a bit bummed by that.
So after a few recommendations I tried Uniqlo and have used them ever since. I have a couple of OTC socks and I might buy a few pairs more in the future, but since I’m mostly wearing some kind of chinos or jeans these days Uniqlo socks works just fine. I like the many colours they offer, and then they do have a couple of options that are a little ”nicer, a little thinner, some supima cotton in them. They’re fine for me even for more smarter occasions.
Hi Simon,
Great topic and an important fashion detail often overlooked by many, in my humble opinion….i ordered Pantherella Danvers (Made In England ) some time ago and have enjoyed wearing them immensely,they have a wide range of colours with Cumin being my most favourite and most worn colour,always gets me compliments,goes exceedingly well with Dark Brown C&J Chukkas.
Recently came to know that they have stopped production in UK and moved it to China or somewhere in the FarEast.
I only really wear 3 types:
Pantherella Kangley – the 100% merino over the calf ones. Tough enough and breathable.
Bresciani linen ones from Mes Chausette Rouge when it’s too warm for those.
Darn Tough standard crew for casual. I’ve got some of the tactical ones I wear in work boots for gardening and stuff too.
Helps that they’re almost always navy or charcoal too. Cotton doesn’t work for me for socks – anything remotely nice just goes through in holes nearly immediately.
Interesting points you make. Would you still buy from William Abraham, as you did in the past?
Not really, no, for the same reasons
Fantastic article! One of the nice things about socks is, with the price point being lower, one can more affordable try a variety of different makers.
For OTC I wear Bleuforet. I have a few different types but I like the Egyptian Cotton socks for work (wearing separates in the office, mostly). Pretty plain pattern so nothing too exciting but they are wearing well over time and a very high cotton content. I haven’t found them to bag. I’ve tried other socks from Bleuforet with mixed results, some of the mid-calf socks are a little more delicate. I’ve also tried some athletic ankle socks which honestly are great but do wear over time and some mid calf sport socks which look cool but the foot bags at the end of the day. I enjoy that they are generally a pretty high cotton per centage.
For physical sporting I wear Nike socks with a 60 or 70 per cent cotton. They are solid, wash well.
Next on my list is to try some JB Fields Socks.
I try and purchase ethically produced products where possible and socks can be tough.
I do find that having a fairly high cotton content makes a difference. Now that I think about it though I’m not sure how much of that is fabric or the weave / thickness.
I find Smartwool and Darn Tough tend to have good mid calf examples in wool. If it’s summer time, I’m usually in loafers and wearing Ondo nonslip socks. They are a dream.
I like both. However, for me the deal maker is Darn Tough’s no-questions-asked lifetime warranty. During the last 3-4 years maybe 4-5 pairs have developed holes and they’ve always given me a new pair
I love Smartwools. Excellent if you do lots of walking as they seem to take years before running holes.
Darn Toughs are durable, but never quite break in and seem endlessly rigid.
I mostly wear a mix of mid calf socks from American Trench (43% wool, 22% silk, 35% synthetic) and Darn Tough (66% wool 34% synthetic). They’re a little more expensive but they both have lasted years.
I don’t wear a ton of tailoring on a day to day basis, so I basically have a few pairs of OTC socks from Dapper Classics (70% merino 30% synthetic) and a couple pairs of 100% linen OTC socks from Kirby Allison.
I wear merino-synthetic blend casual socks from Costco. Great for our cold Canadian winters but with a very limited colour range. I’ll have to try Uniqlo.
I wear Viccel (now Celchuk) socks with tailoring. I also have some from Land’s End and Nordstrom that have lasted a long time.
I also tried some from Dapper Classics. Beautiful colours and patterns but they wore out quickly.
About T M Lewin….
Many years ago I used to go to their sale, in Jermyn street.
The shirts had a nice cloth and were made in England. The cloth was English too. The collars were smaller than Hilditch and similar stiffness to Turnbull. I wore one of their purple tie until it wore out. They were a genuine Jermyn street outfit.
Some years ago nostalgia and prices made me turn to them again to see what had happened in the intervening years.
The buttons on their shirts lasted less time than a prawn sandwich – as the cliche goes.
The cloth was a pathetic excuse for poplin and was thin and lifeless.
This seems to be the fate of many good or great English brands.
Globalisation has its discontents and I am one of them (sorry but have not read that book yet. Hey, I am even prepared to give tariffs a go!)
As to socks, I doubt I could give that a go. The things that cover your feet and the underwear has to be best that one can afford as these are covering either vital and very sensitive regions, or places where moisture and abrasion play a huge part in their health.
I noticed you liked the Brycelands underwear, and I suspect this is of very good quality. I find the Hilditch and Turnbull boxers are far too expensive but just about affordable in the sale.
But they are supremely comfortable, where comfort has to count.
Berg and Berg used to have a great sock sale. And Shibumi sock sale looks good though I have not purchased from them.
For me it has to be over the calf and so very few options are left. Pantherella does great long socks. And you keep the jobs and the factory in Leicester going just a little longer.
does anyone know whether Rototo make long socks?
Also, has anyone tried socks from Blackhorse lane? They look good to me
Regarding Rototo, I haven’t seen anything longer than mid calf.
I wear the Darn Tough “standard” lightweight lifestyle socks with more casual shoes most of the year. For cotton I wear Uniqlo, although I don’t love them.
I wear a brand called Boardroom Socks if I need OTC. The quality is just OK, but since I don’t wear them super often they don’t wear through quickly.
Hi Simon, a fun article and a topic that I suspect lots of people have wondered about – for the same reasons as you! I’ve long bought Ralph Lauren’s 3 packs of black/blue/charcoal ribbed socks – good value at c.£35 compared to finer producers. I find they last me at least 2-3 years despite very frequent all day wear!
Do you still wear OTC socks with odd wool trousers, or only when suiting up?
Still with odd wool trousers, yes. With all tailored trousers pretty much
A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to find some leftover pairs of woollen OTC socks from a Viennese manufacturer, which unfortunately no longer exists, at my tailor. The name of the manufacturer is ‘Sarela, Vienna’. They are fantastic and I paid 13 euros per pair. The information is not very helpful because these socks no longer exist, i know. However, it is interesting in that in the past there was probably simply more quality in a moderate price segment, whereas today I can either buy cheap and bad or expensive and good (mostly at least). As for Uniqlo: the socks hold up quite well, but they do get a bit tatty after a while.
I can recommend Pedemeia. Reasonable prices with lots of variety. They even have some OTC offerings. Personally I like their ivy style Socks the most.
I’ll second the Pedemeia recommendation. Having tried Falke and Pantherella (among others), Pedemeia fit me better, the quality feels great and so far are showing great longevity. The value for money they offer and customer service are also outstanding. I’m a convert after picking up the recommendation from another PS thread.
I’ve got some Smartwool ski socks that have outperformed anything else I’ve ever used for snow sports/hiking. They wick moisture away, are super comfortable and have withstood all kinds of abuse for a long time.
Since I have tried OTC about 10 years ago, I have almost exclusively worn them, except with shorts of course, and for sports. And my bonus – Simon asked – is that my feet sweat profusely and smell easily, EXCEPT when I wear mostly natural fabric socks and leather shoes. This has been a life-saver for me and has also helped with sneakers and snow boots.
I don’t see the issue wearing them with jeans, and certainly not with chinos or cords. They don’t show, no one knows, but for me they are just so much more comfortable! When I occasionally wear the calf ones, I feel unusual and they always slip down. I have just gotten so used to OTC socks that I cannot see myself going back ever. The comfort is incomparable for me, and yes the style is obvious only with tailoring, but it is may daily gig so that is fine. They do tend to be expensive and get holes, true, but for me all socks get holes fairly soon.
On value, I can strongly recommend the Calzedonia 100% cotton ones, particularly ribbed but also plain. They are great value and sometimes they can be had for as low as 3€ a pair when bought in bulk. They are mostly made in Croatia, which from at least Yugoslav times has a good clothes making tradition, particularly cotton, and this is no exception. Their short ones are also good, I have a few pairs.
For more expensive pairs, I am actually cheap and hunt for deals. I have managed to find super fine gauzy Bresciani for about 10 a pop, and regularly go to a nearby outlet centre to get Falke, some of which are ‘B’ quality but I see no difference from the ‘A’ level stuff, especially for 5-10€ per pair. I have even gotten silk, cashmere, and wool blends for that money. I indulge occasionally in Mazarin Academy green from Mes Chaussettes Rouges and some high end Italians whose make I actually forget but will checked, stocked in the finer haberdasheries in Vienna. And for work basics I can also recommend the other German quality sock maker, Kunert.
I totally feel you on price, Simon, but I deal with it through deal hunting. I enjoy OTC so much and would not go back to short as default.
Good recommendations, thanks. I don’t understand why people would wear anything but OTC with jeans!
Best socks for me is bamboo. I just sweat too much for cotton.. and somehow weirdly bamboo… Just works! I buy them usually in tk max. <4£ a pair. I guess bamboo is best for wicking sweat. I have a pair of Mazarin, a pair of pantherella, yes they are great with smart clothing, but with smart casual or casual for me bamboo is best.
I’m glad you wrote this. I normally wear the Uniqlo colour ribbed socks and they are very low cost, come in lots of nice colours and keep their shape. However they do seem to wear through quickly. I’ve been looking for an alternative but haven’t found anything yet.
I wear OTC with everything (except shorts). Usually I buy them in wool from Mes Chausettes Rouge or Crimson, however, New & Lingwood’s socks are wonderful, just bloody expensive. I’ve had good luck with wool OTCs from Nordstrom, but it’s been a few years since I bought those. For summer wear, the Mes Chausettes Rouge super durables in cotton are my usual route.
This is why I like reading Permanent Style: 60 comments (at the time of my writing) on socks!
I’ll add another about finding cotton too clammy in summer, and not warm enough in winter. I much prefer linen, and given the Sydney climate wear them 9 months out of 12. I mostly have them from The Armoury (I think they’re made by Bresciani but sold under The Armoury label) because the sizing works for me (oddly just S/M/L) and they have a wider range of colours – both calf and OTC depending on formality.
Mazarin merino from MCR for the cooler months are great (always OTC).
Uniqlo have the best no-show range that actually stay up (most of the time).
And I’m still getting good mileage from Drake’s silk socks for black-tie I bought years ago.
I used to “economise” on casual socks, but now I can afford it my idea of value equals finer materials next to my skin whenever possible.
Long socks with tailored pants only as it somehow feels silly to wear them with casual clothes.
As for the brands, it’s Falke Lhasa during winter as they are warm, comfortable and long lasting. All else is from MCR, linnen or finer wool as I don’t like the damp feeling 100% cotton seems to give. Their super-durable socks I find uncomfortable (as also stated by others in this thread), all other socks are very nice indeed and their service is second to none.
For crew socks I mostly wear Uniqlo, Muji and Daiso (cheap Japanese franchise). They all perform similarly and the only area where Uniqlo has an edge is the color range. However I haven’t found mine to be as durable as some other people here seem to have.
The best I’ve had in terms of how well they stay up are these ones from the French private label brand Asphalte: https://www.asphalte.com/h/products/les-chaussettes-parfaites — my only gripe is they’ve shrunken noticeably over a couple of washes.
For OTC, I’ve tried Bresciani (both cotton and wool mix), Pedemeia, and Votta. The first are certainly finer, but too delicate and fragile. The latter two I would say are quite similar in terms of quality and value. The Votta ones come in only 3 or 4 (fairly conservative) colors though, one size, and are a bit small.
Lastly, I’ve tried dozens of no-show socks (Uniqlo, Muji, Daiso, M&S, H&M, Pedemeia, etc.). They either are uncomfortable, keep slipping off at the heel, or peek out under the vamp when wearing loafers. I’ve found some from Intimissimi though that seem to get it right on all three counts and are pretty affordable: https://www.intimissimi.com/uk/product/stretch_cotton_footlet_socks-IS0001.html?dwvar_IS0001_Z_COL_CALZU=2000
I’m with you on the difficulty of finding good no-shows. The Mazarins from MCR are not bad. I have one pair of no-shows that’s amazing, and of course have no idea who makes them.
Its funny you say about jeans driving the change from OTC as looking at the Blackhorse Lane site the other day I spotted they’ve stocked some socks and they’re all OTC.
Socks is a real problem for me, for best part of 20 years I wore a navy suit to work or blue jeans outside of work. I have a draw full of navy socks, mainly from M&S which last forever.
In recent years I’ve become brave and bought chinos/trousers that arent blue/navy but there are still 30 odd pairs of navy socks and a few random Xmas presents. Last two years been back into wearing boots in winter so been buying some more chunkier wool blend socks, mainly from Falke in the sales (not OTC). Not looking forward to summer and having to buy new socks.
PS. Your Uniqlo sock price I the article has a £ but no value
Tabio got a shoutout for casual socks.but they also make nice OTC ones.
Hey Simon,
An interesting article as always. I’m keen to see what the other readers have to say too. I wholeheartedly agree that the types of socks you were originally buying are overkill and not as well suited to more casual wear. I’ve always felt jeans / chinos etc warrant less sheen and perhaps more robustness and texture.
I know Bresciani do a 3-ply cotton sock. They’re more durable than their other lines and do solve the problem of a lack of colour choice, although are certainly not inexpensive. I’ve had some success with Falke, with Sunspel (which often go on sale for ~30% off) and with some local Australian brands.
There’s nothing more wasteful to me than wearing holes in fine cotton socks after a long day’s walking.
Tim.
It interests me how long standing menswear brands (TM Lewin, Hawes & Curtis etc) have gone from being purveyors of high quality, traditionally made Jermyn Street shirts and accessories to snazzily marketed mass produced men’s fashion.
30 years ago Lewin’s quality was very high, as was H&K and H&C’s; unfused collars, MOP buttons, two fold poplin. Then Tyrwhitt arrived (also initially with proper unfused collars). Gradually they morphed into the “4 shirts for £100” and the afore mentioned followed suit.
Pink remained one of the few traditional shirtmakers but their fate was sealed when the Mullens sold their business to Prada.
The internet has become the marketing tool of choice for these brands now ands they spin a great story based on the heritage of their names.
Go into a Tyrwhitt shop today and all the staff have a tape measure around their neck.
I have several pairs from The Gap, including more than a couple I bought a long time ago. I also wear American Trench socks, but that might not be what you’re angling for.
Just adding my voice to the chorus of those who prefer merino wool socks to cotton — to my mind, there is no comparison: they feel better, last longer, retain their shape, and conduct heat well. Like others, I am also partial to Pantherella and Bresciani, though I also have some from Mazarin, and a few overpriced purple stragglers from Drake’s still knocking around the sock drawer, though they get less wear these days than they once did. (I might add that I also vastly prefer merino wool t-shirts to cotton in general, the exception being the classic white crewneck, which just seems more correct in cotton).
In especially cold weather and with boots, I too like marled colors from Anonymousism and Rototo, though Heimat also makes a good very thick sock that excels under foul-weather footwear like Bean boots, etc., or just for padding around the house on chilly mornings.
Special shout out to Campbell’s of Beauly for their tall “shooting socks” that pair particularly well with Wellington-style rain boots. I have a pair that I wear with my trusty, neoprene-lined Le Chameau slip-ons, and they’re excellent. “Great for dog walking as well as on the moors,” Campbell’s writes. Although I live very far from the nearest moor, I don’t doubt the truth of their statement!
I’ve recently been buying from il regalo which have been fantastic. Well-made (made in Japan) and far longer lasting than most brands, including Bresciani.
https://ilregalo-socks.com/en?srsltid=AfmBOopyN38wpKdGTw-9TyWRukZQCuWYEu-uYEKUAeWY7g1a19ztArGe
My every day casual socks are Orvis Invinceble 70% merino wool 25% nylon 5% lycra. Very durable. Boxers from Mercer also long lasting. Fine socks from Bresciani and Marcoliani.
I’ve had luck with Dapper Classics, Uniqlo, and surprisingly Bombas for casual socks. I have a small foot (US 6.5) and have to be discerning to get something that fits comfortably.
For casual socks I don’t look much further than the brilliant Ivy Ellis. Vintage-inspired socks, made in Scotland, perfect for an Ivy aesthetic and with a range that over time has become increasingly wearable as they have moved beyond their strong line-up of crew socks.
As many others do, I opt for Uniqlo as my socks for suiting. They hit the sweet spot of enough quality for the price and not so expensive that they get held on to after they reach their wear threshold.
Interesting read. I am curious what makes OTC feel silly with jeans or trousers+knitwear? Is it the relative fussiness and cost relative to knee-high?
For practical reasons I’ve yet to find calf-length socks that stay up (though I also don’t run very warm below the knee – I only notice a difference if my ankle is exposed)
Like a couple of other commenters, I have gone the other way, actually wearing OTC with jeans/casual trousers (it was ankle socks with jeans+sneakers previously). Admittedly, the fineness of my socks felt discordant, so I shifted to the Mes Chaussettes Rouges super durable range (the fineness feels less of an issue with loafers or derbies). That said, I tend towards houndstooth or more pronounced patterns/colors (particularly loud colors also feel more at home with casual outfits) or linen.
In any case, this has lead me to re-evaluate if it’s worth experimenting with Uniqlo or TM Lewin (though story is closed if they don’t stay up for me) – thanks.
No worries Alexander. Yes, OTC socks with jeans or chinos felt too fussy and formal to me – there are obviously practical benefits, but there are to sock garters too.
Love Pantherella for both OTC and half calf length socks. Good mix of colours, designs and fabrics – cotton and merino wool. Nice to buy British too.
A British company but sadly in the last year no longer a British manufacturer.
I buy online at The London Sock Company (http://londonsockcompany.com) and always been pleased.
I buy my socks from a company called J Alex Swift based in Leicestershire. The short boot socks are brilliant ( i wear boots a lot) and I’ve had some that have lasted me 10 years. They do a whole range from dress socks to bed socks. Worth checking out.
Thanks Dan
MCR cotton lisle socks are so nice but so thin I switched to the super durable range. The wool socks are really nice but I also have issues with holes on them. I wear kamakura socks as well but only the wool ones as the cotton ones fit weird.
I like the super durable Mazarin with more casual clothes like jeans, chinos, flannels as they are thicker and don’t look as odd as the finer cottons with more casual materials. I do fold them down a little as I find that get quite hot even in the cooler months. I still wear the finer cottons with my suits or if I’m wearing high twist trousers.
I tried Uniqlo socks but they pill so quickly and look bad in my experience.
I have spent six years in London and, as I am Italian, short socks are still a mystery to me. My favourites are Schostal and Mazarin super durable. With Bresciani and Gallo I experienced holes after low usage but I do not have the sprezzatura of a king to stay comfortable with that.
Always use Pantherelle (and some pairs of Bresciani). Long (knee high) navy blue socks. Both expensive but last forever and always look great.
I love the super durables from MCR. I buy all my dress socks from them. Super durables, as well as finer cotton, wool, etc. For casual socks, I buy cotton crew socks at Costco. They’re incredibly durable and robust, made in the USA, at $12 for a six pack, the last time I bought them.
Calzedonia OTC cashmere blend socks are unbeatable.
Schostal no matter what.
https://www.schostalroma.com/
As I used to own a brand of socks, before selling it, I put aside an almost lifelong stock of over the calf socks and thus I can afford to wear them even with jeans 😀
And honestly I do enjoy expensive socks. For example socks with some interesting wool like camel or mohair. Or socks with some interesting colour like orange (which in my opinion is super versatile and looks great with grey, blue, green, and brown trousers).
Buy three pairs merino full length socks in 80% Australian wool at Drakes, they cut you a deal. So nice to feel under any trouser (I don’t wear jeans).
I can recommend Burlington socks – I bought few pairs on 2017 and some
of them are still in use!
I seem to get sweaty skin very quickly when socks have any synthetics in. Not sure where Falke Fil d’ecosse fits on the luxury price line but they don’t seem to stretch well and don’t lose shape.
Also available in the purple that PS prescribed a while back and which had me changing to from black and grey
Nice!
Until around 10 years ago I was constantly buying socks and they only lasted for a few weeks/months before developing holes. I then started buying Viyella and have not yet found a hole in any of them – they are very robust indeed, although may be considered pricey. I currently mainly wear wool OTC socks.
Uniqlo have always been a go-to. J. Alex Swift make great 90% wool boot socks but the lack of synthetics means they will wear through if used regularly. Hirschmarke in Germany make excellent socks using some vintage machines but again have the issue of developing holes if used too regularly because of their reliance on natural fibres (the camelhair-mix ones I bought via Manufactum have been very solid so far, however). The Danish company Dilling make good merino socks in tasteful colours but sell out often. Finally, I do like Richard James socks; yes, they are brightly patterned but as with the article on ‘fun’ shirts, I think it’s fine to enjoy a pop of character integrated into a more demure outfit. I also enjoy their embrace of design and colour, especially when so many other brands are tasteful to the point of boredom.
I discovered the EVERY DAY EXTENDED CREW SOCKS from American elevated basics maker Mack Weldon about 3 years ago and have never looked back. For Fall and Winter casual wear they are the best I’ve ever owned. I have about 12 pairs in Navy and Gray that are all still going strong after 3 years. I don’t baby them and wash regularly. Not sure why they refer to them as crew socks (even with the extended moniker). They are absolutely OTC and stay up better than any I’ve ever owned. They’re 85% combed cotton, 10% spandex, 4% nylon and 1% elastic. They’re mostly an on-line brand but have a six brick and mortar locations in the U.S. Two in NYC (one of which is in my office complex), and one in Austin, Boston, Chicago and LA. Not sure if they ship internationally but an an excellent product worth considering for the sock obsessed.
https://mackweldon.com/products/everyday-extended-crew-sock?color=Total+Eclipse+Blue
Another very interesting article Simon, especially to all of us that cannot afford bespoke and fine quality garments, but we always seek for quality over quantity and can’t wait for your thoughts/approach on affordable elegance. Falke and certain Massimo Dutti socks have worked good for me! Recently I found Pansocks produced by a small Greek company meeting very high standards! Worth giving a try…
I insist on wearing socks made of 100% merino wool; summer and winter made my Joe Merino. It is a very comfortable, slightly longer sock. Never too cold, never too warm, just your basic year rounder. Machine washable (and machine dryable, if you insist).
But: woollen socks are sensitive creatures. They don’t like long toe nails, or other sharp objects. They have to put up with a lot and will not be around forever.
But the better care you take of them and your feet, the longer they’ll stay with you.
I’ve also found the TM Lewin socks to be hardworking. For less frequent wear Pantherella. Sometimes Corgi.
Uniqlo quickly wear for me at the lower Achilles. Tyrwhitt don’t wash so well.
Well in my opinion OTC long socks are essential at all times, except perhaps in the gym, or running. The best quality wool ones are No. 7 Finest Merino from Falke (also in silk) and for Sea Island and fil d’Ecosse cotton Panterella are undoubtedly the best. A3x5 rib and always, absolutely always PLAIN!
Uniqlo socks don’t wash or last well in my experience, they fade and pill (presumably from the synthetic content). But they’re cheap.
I found exactly the same issues you describe when buying fine cotton socks from say Pantherella. Lovelly, beautiful socks – and for that very reason I wore them more often – with the result that they wore out more quickly, such that replacing them, quickly became an exercise in futility, shall we say. I first moved to Pantherella’s and Hall’s range of merino wool or just wool socks – and then broadened my horizons further to other brands (whilst trying to make sure all my socks were made with natural fibres – or with limited amounts of plastic fibres as you write in your article). I certainly do try to buy British wherever possible – but experimented with German brand Falke for a while.
Isn’t it remarkable how the subject of socks arouses such intense interest? Well done!
I have worn Pantherella for years, both merino and cotton, and find that they look good and wear well. A gentle wash and hang-drying seem to prolong the life of a pair to several years.
As I wear suits and sports jackets for work, I prefer OTC socks — but have followed Simon’s lead with more casual trousers. What dismays me with the Pantherella brand is that the threads at the opening of the merino OTC socks frequently break or detach, making it seem that the weaving of the sock was unfinished. Snipping off the thread doesn’t seem to cause harm, but I almost feel guilty when I do it, as if I’ve assaulted the sock’s integrity!
Keep up the good work, Simon!
Cheers John
Uniqlo socks are great quality and inexpensive in a wide range of colours.
I used to like M&S socks with different tie and heel colours to make it easier to pair after washing. However, the quality is not great now. So like with their underwear I now buy elsewhere.
There are lots of good value options for clothing. Price does not always equal quality.
“Much as I loved the way OTC socks stayed up, there was something a little silly about wearing them with jeans.”
I can tell you what else is very silly, I’m surprised you didn’t mention it. OTC socks with narrower leg trousers (and I don’t mean trousers branded as “skinny”) can cling to the inside of the trouser leg when you’re seated. Such that when you stand up your hem ends up about halfway up your calf from friction. Now THIS is very silly on multiple levels: when to pull those hems back down, for example, since your unplanned transition to formal bermudas can readily remain for as long as it takes you to get to the door of the meeting room. Reason enough to forego OTC even with formal wear. Unless they’re made of silk or teflon whose co-efficient of friction is negligible.
I am a fan of Uniqlo, and for something nicer I lean towards Falk or Doré Doré.
I’ve struggled to get fund socks I[‘ve been happy with, until recently.
The ones that has been an absolute revelation in the last year are Anglo-Italian’s OTC wool socks.
Brilliant socks for both robustness of wear, and staying up (not an overrated quality in an OTC sock, and some woollen only socks do droop over time).
£30 per pair, 72% wool, and very slightly thicker than eg Panterella fine socks, but only to the extent that they feel luxurious, while still feeling fine enough to be smart, rather than than casual. Available in Navy, Brown, and Charcoal, so all essential bases are covered.
Who knew socks could provide such an excellent article, and another set of brilliantly informative comments from readers!
https://angloitalian.com/collections/accessories
Gold toe
I wear OTC wool/nylon socks from Pantherella with tailored trousers and regular length modal blend socks from Next with chinos and jeans. I find cotton too uncomfortable in socks as they get clammy too easily. The other thing I cannot stand is socks with thick toe seams, which you didn’t cover in the article and none of the comments have mentioned – it’s put me off Uniqulo, as every pair I have looked at in store has had those, whereas Pantherella and the more ‘premium’ socks at Next (and some other high street retailers like M&S) have smooth toe seams.
I don’t spend huge amounts on formal aside from a few Emma Willis shirts, but socks I really feel the benefit of. I’m pretty much exclusively Pantherella for patterns and London Sock Company’s Simply Sartorial for solid colours, a mix of mid-calf and OTC, and half a dozen of LSCs boot socks. They get worn all the time except for sports (Danish Endurance off Amazon). A couple of Pantherella silk OTC for black tie feel suitably luxurious
Both brands give excellent comfort and keep their shape well. A couple holed out early but LSC’s guarantee of replacement inside a year was honoured without any quibbles.
Can you explain why one can’t find socks with “clock” designs—a subtle vertical line down the side with some added design? This was an elegant pattern available many years ago. As far as I know, only Ft. Belvedere offers them now, and only in cotton.
Why I can’t find socks in the correct size without paying an exorbitant price? Is it that hard for a producer to create properly sized socks and turn a profit? I’m willing to pay $20–$25 per pair for quality merino wool or high-quality synthetic dress socks. My size is US 8, and producers with size ranges usually have a size that corresponds to about the US size 8–13 range. Those sizes never fit, though. The heel is usually at my Achilles tendon, and it bunches there. The brand Kane11 made good-quality sized merino socks, but that brand has vanished.
I think the number of people who would know what a clock design is are very small unfortunately Doug, but you’d still think some of the tailors or brands would offer them, even as a point of difference.
The sized options I think won’t change with any bigger brand if they can get away with not offering it
Hi Doug, I’d recommend having a look at Myrqvist’s selection of wool socks, which are sized. Recently stumbled on them at their store in London and the socks are really nice and reasonably priced.
I was lucky, many years ago John Smedley made OTC merino wool and cotton socks. I bought a large quantity both in a dark rose colour .I’m still wearing them , they seem to last forever!
Hello everyone.
When wearing dress shoes, as the fit Is often thought and made to be « close » to the foot, I always wear fine socks. And as my fine socks are quality OTC socks, i wear them.
So wool mazarin or linen bresciani OTC socks with jeans as with trousers for me, When wearing dress shoes (I only have loafers).
(I also have several berg&berg wool socks)
I wear uniqlo socks with Canvas sneakers and new balance.
But the uniqlo are always too thick to wear with my loafers.
One more thing : I dont think I ever had any hole in a single pair of quality dress socks. I still have socks I bought in 2019.
(Note that I have many pairs of socks. A good 40 I would say)
Another thing : Cotton socks being a real issue with dress trousers, the trousers sticking up When getting up from sitting, I found linen and wool had way less of that « hooking » issue.
My 2 cents 😉
Cheers
Jean.
I have quite a few pairs of Lewin socks in various colours. They recently closed down their retail outlets here and had a very long clearance sale. I think I paid less than $5 a pair so well worth stocking up (pun intended). I have also tried socks from herring shoes in the UK (online) but the prices have incresed markedly.
Another vote for Uniqlo socks here. I’m commenting more to say that I appreciate your honesty with how you’ve changed your mind on some things as time has gone on. Like you say, just because something is considered the “best” quality doesn’t mean that it is the best purchase – even if one does have the disposable cash for it. It’s also nice to see a high street brand being considered on its own merits and not pandering to snobbery (I’d expect no less, but it’s still nice to see).
Nice to hear that came across well, thanks James
Interesting read and a number of responses. I have some TM Lewin socks. One of the things I liked about them, was that they offer a range of sizes, rather than the ubiquitous 7-11 many ‘brands’ offer.
One firm which I can recommend is the Bradford Sock Company reasonably priced, at £12.50 & £7.99 a pair, with options to create your own!
They are predominantly wool 80% nylon 20% and are all made in Yorkshire.
Give them a try, at that price they are surely worth exploring. https://www.thebradfordsockcompany.co.uk/sock-shop-8-c.asp
Hello Simon, socks are essentially a major topic with tailoring or workwear. So thank you for bringing it up. I made the same experience with e. g. Bresciani socks, which were too fine to last long. On the other hand I don‘t like to wear socks with too much synthetic, because my skin become slightly irritated. I try to avoid socks with more than 30 % synthetics. Mostly I wear long socks with suits and shorter ones with denim or chinos, mainly made from wool or wool and cotton mix. As I write from Germany I would like to recommend Falke socks. They offer a wide range of fabrics and colours and could also be bought online.
Best wishes
Daniel
Some of my favourite casual socks were from Charles Tyrwitt. They were thick blue and red socks which were 100% cotton.
No word of a lie. They must have lasted 15-20 years.
Thanks, Simon. This is a subject not often covered. I’ve been wearing Pantherella ribbed OTC cotton socks going on over 40 years (showing my age) and swear by them. They hold up reasonably well,.that is no holes, have a large selection of colours you can play with which adds to the fun. What’s interesting in my experience is that women notice great looking socks and many have complimented me on them. For me, I have no issue with OTC regardless of season.
I have been wearing MCR super solide in wool, cotton and bison (I like bisons with jeans and chinos). They are super, but could be more solide. I am about 95kg and suspect that I wear through them faster than average. I ordered 20 new pairs before Christmas and was about to dispose of the thin and holed older ones, when I suddenly regretted the waste. I am now darning, which has its satisfactions. The new MCR SSs are still in the box.
I am obliged to the posters recommending Community Clothing.
A really useful article and judging by the debate plenty of us agree. For my part Pantharella are my go to at the moment but I’ll explore Corgi also now I’m aware.
The pursuit of brilliant basics (good quality, reasonable value) was how I first came across Permanent Style. It was around 2017 and I googled something like ‘quality white t-shirts’ and I came across an old PS article and have been hooked since so thank you.
Btw on white t-shirts I’m inclined to go with Private White due to the fit mainly. A little pricey but the neckline works well to show just a little white with a sweatshirt or crew neck Shetland.
On mens underwear, I was a Sunspel advocate but I think M&S Autograph trunks in grey or navy are just a good and half the price. The problem is M&S tend to change and don’t stay with a fixed product so you have to check.
I can confidently say, having tried dozens of brands, that nothing compares to Pantharella. The fil d’écosse feels so lovely against the skin and they fit wonderfully. No slipping down like these ‘one size fits all’ types. There are always big discounts in their sale too and I have dozens of pairs. I have NEVER had a single hole in my Pantharella socks and I am 60 years old! One favourite pair did get a bit thread bare after years of use and I eventually threw them out. The Lewin ones feel very solid too but lack the luxurious feel of my Pantharella ones. They seem to have a very elastic, thicker and less less refined feel overall IMO.
Boardroom socks in the US are a great price/value proposition. Marcoliani and Pantherella socks are gorgeous but they simply don’t last long enough given their cost.
Does anyone darn their socks anymore?
Like resewing a button, it’s not too hard to do. YT videos can show how.
I know it sounds insane in the modern world. Who has the time?
Found something that works like a darning egg, and it’s not too hard, satisfying and relaxing actually.
It’s a little Eleanor Rigby, but I have some socks that have lasted years, and I hate throwing out nice socks because of a few holes.
And for some reason, you will wear socks with unsightly holes every time you go to an airport! What’s up with that?
I do darn socks, though not forever and it’s in a way another argument against superfine ones, because they are harder to darn.
We wrote about it here including a link to a good video
Oh thanks! I missed that one sorry.
Love it!
Yeah, bad stuff happens to your favorite pieces. Like a fine merino sleeveless cardigan from Schostal I had. My tweed jackets Harris Tweed label ( my tailor keeps adding it even though I’ve begged him to stop) wore a hole in the fine merino. I just used regular black thread to barbarically (hope that’s an adverb) repair the hole. Of course, the result is obvious, but I found it add character!
Actually, Simon, the filo di Scozia (Scottish weave ?) socks I get in Rome are the ones I try to repair most! Sorry I don’t know the brand, but these are otc socks that are so fine they look like women’s hosiery. Not to everyone’s liking I’m sure, but they are beautifully comfortable with spring summer clothes. – translucent sheen. They’re great in 30+ centigrade heat and if washed like cashmere knitwear will last a good while. 10-15€ on Via Due Macelli right near Piazza di Spagna. They are known for the gloves.
Repair your stuff guys! Lucky socks are like lucky underwear, don’t break the spell by tossing a great friend!
If there’s time to comment on PS, there’s time to darn socks.
I don’t though.
But, I commend you for doing so.
Pantherella does well on both feel and wear. A bit pricier but not crazy given the durability.
My favorite socks by far are Smartwool.
I was hesitant to mention this as I thought they’re too casual/ workwear-ish for the tone of this site…. but since you mention Uniqlo. H&M, etc., I’ll jump in.
I do lots of walking on my days off, and am on my feet all day at work.
Smartwool sock are little miracles on the feet, they take a good couple years, on frequent rotation, to run holes. I can’t say enough about them.
A distant second are the older, and cleverly named Darned Tough socks, but I find these take much longer to break in — they’re durable but almost forever rigid.
For your loafer and jeans outfit in the last pic, Smartwools would not be too casual.
I’m set with my Smartwools, but I’m curious if anyone has tried the pricey Merz B. Schwanen socks.
Maybe I’m just keen on their swan logo and something I enjoy about doing my best to pronounce the German Z and the German W.
Saw that someone else had also mentioned Muji, which has been my go-to for a few years. Used to buy Uniqlo, but occasionally found that the seams near the toes could be too thick and would annoy me throughout the day. Muji seems to occasionally rotate the colours with purples, ecru, burgundy, mustard and greens in addition to the more traditional selection and some stores have more choices than others. Will also give Community Clothing a try based on the recommendations here.
Another vote for Corgi!
After years of cotton, discovering Merino wool socks was a revelation. Cotton for summer (falke invisible are great), but for every other time of year, treat yourself to merino, you’ll wonder how you lived without.
NB on washing, these will shrink on a standard 30 degrees spin, 1800 rev. Knock spin down to 800 and all is good, and they dry in half the time of cotton!
I am a big fan of gold toe socks. I buy the cotton nylon blend and they last forever while still looking good. The navel blue socks have a lighter blue stripe above the toe so you can identify them as navy when they are in the drawer with the black socks.
Hi Simon and readers. My sock choices probably won’t impress anyone, but that’s because I can’t wear socks with tight ribbing that digs into my calves and leaves a “train track” behind. So, my arsenal includes a few silk or cotton socks to impress (usually just myself, I admit), along with a slew of super cheap socks from Amazon, like the Yomandamor Diabetic socks (I’m not diabetic, by the way; I just find them more comfortable and healthier in the long run). Unfortunately, I’ve had no luck finding anything non-binding at regular stores like Uniqlo. Btw. I’ve never had issues with diabetic socks slipping down.
It would be great to hear from other readers who can recommend good non-binding socks.
I’ve found Mazarin’s non-compressive socks from Mes Chaussettes Rouges offer some relief from the problem you describe. Even so, they still leave me with train tracks. Having big calves makes it hard to find a good fit. I will now give diabetic socks a try — thanks for sharing your experience.
https://meschaussettesrouges.com/en/collections/chaussettes-non-comprimantes
I might be a little late to the conversation but Portuguese brand Pedemia is great. They have great colors, lots of style and fabric options and the prices are very reasonable. And made in Portugal. I wear OTC wool-blend socks, sport socks, invisible socks and ankle socks in both cotton-blend and wool-blend. Especially the ankle-lengths are great, they stay up and wear well. The OTC wool-blend doesn’t really compare to Pantherella in other ways than the price. Living in Northern Europe I wear OTC wool-blend socks for utilitarian reasons with all trousers including jeans. Wife also wears Pedemeia socks and likes them a lot.
I have worn Uniqlo and Muji socks but my feet sweat a lot in those or perhaps they sweat the same amount but feel sweatier in these. I wouldn’t compromise on socks and wouldn’t buy cheap socks. If I would have a great outfit but bad socks it wouldn’t feel right.
I did try and go with a few pairs of Bresciani but as beautiful as the material is unless you’re adept at repairing socks every other month I wouldn’t recommend them. For years Thomas Pink made excellent cotton socks – many of mine must be 11-12 years old and still going just fine.
I use Sozzi socks exclusively now and I find them really wonderful. They stay up ok and last quite a while.
I recoignise the Travellers Club carpet in one of the photos.
Simon (and/or others!), do you find that you have issues with static on full-length merino wool socks worn with wool trousers? Does this same issue occur with finer cotton socks?
I’ve heard wider trousers floated as a solution (which I’m increasingly in favour of), but even so, friction happens when you’re moving around.
Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks.