By Lucas Nicholson.
Hello! The first PS Moodboard went down well (bar a dodgy AI Diana) so I’ve been kindly asked to create another. We’re doing Autumn/Winter now, so it’s time to start really dressing: furry flannels, textural tweeds and capacious coats are the order of the season.
The format is the same as last time, the images and their descriptions are intended to give you a sense of mood and general inspiration, but some notes are also more specific. Enjoy!
Bowie in his ‘villain era’. In fact, doing are pretty good Hans Gruber impression (note to self: should also be on the moodboard). This image reinforces how effective a suit and tie can still be in 2025. It doesn’t have to be overly complicated, just a dark suit, a light shirt and a dark tie and you can make a statement.
Michael Caine looking like a Buck Mason lookbook: western shirt and cord blazer. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Cindy Crawford giving a masterclass in tailoring: big DB navy suit with a black roll neck and black suede loafers. The outfit could be boring but the leather touches and the depth of texture and really lift it and make it impactful.
This is for all those lucky readers who bought the PS camel hair Donegal - this is how I picture your weekends, browsing the windows of the Burlington Arcade looking at vintage Piagets or fun cocktail rings.
Tweed isn’t just for jackets. For deep winter change out your jeans for a herringbone tweed trouser with your heavy knits, and instantly elevate the look.
This one leans more into the early autumnal/late summer vibe, with Luciano Barbera looking relaxed, comfortable and perfectly put together. Reminding us that a cardigan can really work as substitute for a blazer in more casual settings.
This image of Ryder from J Mueser (shot for J Crew) has been on my moodboard ever since it was posted I think. Nothing nicer on a relaxed Sunday than a dangerously worn-in barbour and soft oxford shirt.
Michael Caine + suede trench coat - need I say anything else? Only if anyone knows where I can get a suede trench please let me know (in the comments)
A more rugged approach to winter. Robert Redford in a down shirt, which I think is an very underrated down style. Not as big as a usual “puffa” and the collar can protect your neck from the wind. (This is not an endorsement for the hat, you are not Robert Redford.)
Leopard print has been circling classic menswear for years, but never really taken a hold. I like this approach by Mickey Rourke, a simple outfit with a leopard scarf (ideally cashmere) that means I could put it on in the morning, and take it off when I chicken out before I get to the Tube.
Clean, simple, utilitarian - Dustin Hoffman in an M65, OCBD and navy scarf.
Al Pacino giving me the hump by how good he looks in this camelhair jacket. It probably wouldn’t work on my fairer complexion but definitely one to take inspiration from; Simon often talks about putting camel and grey together and here you can see why.
And finally, here’s a couple of bonus images from Pinterest of old fashion shows that are worth returning to: Helmut Lang 1998 above (so nice, so clean) and Hermes 1999 below (women’s but very Permanent Style adjacent).
It’s worth looking through Pinterest for a lot these old shows, as the looks very so current now.
There’s a suede trench on Marrkt right now I’d be snapping up if I were a tad slighter of build!
https://www.marrkt.com/products/suede-trench-coat?_pos=8&_sid=6c233b900&_ss=r
A much more affordable vintage one here as well! https://www.marrkt.com/collections/matthew2182/products/paul-blanche-leather-overcoat
Thank you, great inspiration! I especially love the camelhair coat, looks amazing! The picture of Ryder and the Barbour also hits very close to home somehow. However, I don’t think Michael Kaine is really wearing a western shirt, nor a blazer, in the first picture of him…
Caine not Kaine. He took the stage name after seeing a cinema in London’s West End showing The Caine Mutiny. I leave it to others to look up the date.
Love this one too Lucas!
Realise the biggest readership is Anglo-Saxon, but a little bit more from other parts of the world would be great too!
Hi Dan
For sure, this is just a small sample of my pinterest boards obviously we tend to skew more tailored with the imagery as well. Do you have any particular people or brand who are worth looking at from other parts of the world? I am sure people would appreciate?
Thanks Dan for the reply 🙂
I just noticed that it was mostly Brits and Americans pictured, with the exception of one Italian and German I believe. I was just wondering whether there are some interesting things happening in other countries/continents. Korea, Japan come to mind first, but perhaps there’s also some inspiration from other parts of the world.
Permanent style is my only source for inspiration so far – still early days in my journey towards dressing better 🙂
Hi Dan, no worries totally understand that, the western culture is defintely one which tends to appear most in these things I think because of the obsession with fame from the 60s onwards, so there tend sot be a lot of pictures of recognisable people and those people are often famous and have an “aura” but I completely agree there is plenty to get inspiration from across the world and I will try next time to be more diverse with my offering!
And just to say that I find your moodboards really helpful. Really liked the first one and was v happy to see you did a second one too.
Actually I didn’t know what moodboards are before your first one 😉
Hi Lucas
A welcome return of the mood board. I find this one particularly relatable. For me the underlying theme if anything, is to keep it simple.l, in pretty much all the looks.
Before I retired I had a regular notation of four navy suits , light blue shirts and navy ties my favourite being knitted silk pointed blade only. Never ever looked a cool as Bowie or any of the others featured- but then who could- present company excepted of course!
Quick question is the camel coat pictured the PS one? It looks a little fuller than I remember.
Thanks again, great stuff and please keep the mood boards coming.
Hi Stephen, thank you! I agree there is a definite theme of simplicity and I find it something I am being drawn towards, a slightly darker, moodier but simple way of dress as the early sunsets roll in and late mornings the clean simple lines and dark fabrics help me get dressed quicker in the morning!
Lots of great photos!
Another nice detail on Cindy is the second knit drapes over her shoulders.
Agree camel and grey, preferably a few shades darker than Pacino’s scarf is a superb combo.
Finally, Margiella for Hermes was so so good. I have tons of photos on my Pinterest as well.
Thank you! Yeah the Cindy picture is one I am going to be leaning on for sure! Glad you enjoyed.
Loving the 90s nostalgia here Lucus….my formative years.
Can I ask about tweed trousers. I’m with you and am a fan, but I known Simon cautions about patterned trousers; any jackets you’d recommend to pair these with.
And, an extension to this is any suggestions for good RTW or MTM options – A&S haberdashery are lovely but their prices have crept into the simply unjustifiable realm for a ‘pair of pants’ (circa £700 last time I looked).
Hi James, thank you! Yes with patterned trousers it is definitely harder to wear a jacket, I would recommend a plainer wool maybe with some depth like a plain navy harris tweed or a lambswool twill could be nice as well. Certainly something on the more casual side. As for RTW trousers that is a good point, it may be worth checking out the games trouser from Drakes I imagine they will do a tweed this season in those and they balance the line nicely between a casual and a smart trouser. It may be worth checking Cordings as well as they often have something tweedy in their trouser section. Ralph will likely have something for winter. I am sure other readers can recommend some places as well they have seen.
Cordings is a good shout but the autumn trouser promotion finished last weekend. Harvie & Hudson and Oliver Brown are other alternatives in London at a similar price point.
A word of warning. I am very wary of Polo Ralph Lauren after trying on the Ivy jackets. The fit was great but the “tweed” cloth was a crazy 55% polyester/45% wool! At £445, that is unacceptable – https://www.fenwick.co.uk/products/ralph-lauren-herringbone-single-breast-blazer-brown-tan-715980007.
I opted for Cordings’ soft-shouldered Haworth, 100% Moon tweed and a reasonable £395, instead.
RL’s Polo line is one of the most confusing and inconsistent ever! During the last 10 years, I’ve seen made-in-Italy houndstooth blazers (probably made by Corneliani or something equivalent, near Purple Label quality) that cost 1400 e and made-in-China polyester mix blazers that cost 250-350 e. All sold under the Polo label. It’s completely hit and miss, and also difficult to buy second hand if all these details aren’t visible.
Thanks for the tip. I just pulled the trigger on the grey herringbone games trousers from Drake’s and I love them. Wouldn’t really wear them with a jacket, better with a shirt and knitwear (cardigan preferably) imo.
Kit Blake has a herringbone tweed from McGee in the Grant cut, which is a little less than the A&S ones you mention, but a good premium over their regular prices.
They also have a few versions of the heavyweight Fox flannel for the same premium price.
It’s a pity that Pacino’s camelhair jacket is too tight. Most of the photos are uninspiring – Michael Caine looks unusually scruffy. My favourite look is the first photo with the tweed jacket and coat.The Burlington Arcade shopper also dresses in a similar way to me. I’d love to know what he wore under his camel coat, a serge navy blazer or soft tweed jacket?
Dustin Hoffman photo: Simple but effective and relaxed. Bit of a cold colour look with the faded green/olive of the M65 working well with the very dark navy scarf. The subdued pattern on the shirt heightens the look, passing over a solid which might have been the default choice?
100% the light pattern realyl breaks up the starkness of the shirt softening the look in my opinon.
Essentially a deep dive into 1980s / early 1990s NYC (amongst other times / places) and nothing bad about that whatsoever!
Ha thats exactly where I am at with it at the moment, I think is part of a bigger trend and my own personal stage of life where I’m leaning a more “Metropolitan Luxury” (I just made that up I don’t think it is a thing.) Rich textures but cold colours, A line big coats and soft loose tailoring.
ha! im in to that stuff as well. my wife calls it my ‘Home Alone’ coats.
Hi Lucas,
Would you mind me asking where the very top image is from: tweed overcoat, windowpane jacket, turtle neck?
Very autumnal textures and colours – would love to see if it’s part of a wider look book (or catalogue if from the 90s)
I was about to say I don’t know it has just been kicking around tumblr and pinterest for ages! But a quick google image search shows its an old GQ shoot – https://www.uomoclassico.com/eds/1992/GQ/Polo,%20Anyone
Ah – Thanks Lucas.
GQ shoot from 1992 for Ralph Lauren Polo 👌
Thanks Lucas.
The collar of the shirt which David Bowie is wearing is killer. 😀
I am craving the cooler weather so I can get cracking with my AW wardrobe. So many pieces I started longing for around early august that I was actually wishing away the warm weather. Now we’re caught in that miserably muggy, wet and still quite warm weather of climate changed autumn in the UK. I went out the other day in a thick cotton knit over an oxford with wide officer chinos the other day and by midday was beginning to soak through with sweat. How does one dress for this current climate?!
Good question! Near impossible to answer beyond the usual suspects, layers, jumper on in the morning over the shoulders in the afternoon?
Ah that is it isn’t it. Simple but being a detail oriented perfectionist, I always struggle to put together an outfit in the morning that I can imagine removing a part of later in the day without feeling like it’s lost something
Ahh I can’t wait for the temps to drop in NYC. I love strolling the city in a big comfy coat, knitwear, and a nice pair of tailored trousers or heavy denim. Just so comfortable but chic.
Side note: What does it take to get a spot on a “reader profile”? You guys are popping by later this month and wouldn’t mind putting some fits together for one 😉 I get so much inspiration from other readers I think it might be fun haha
Looking forward to seeing you there!
We have quite a few reader profiles queued up I’m afraid so we can’t do any more at the moment, but good to know you’d be up for it
In the first image, what colour trousers would Michael have worn then (or would be suitable now)? Somehow, I struggle to visualize the complete look. Yet, to my eye, it seems a deceptively simple way to look casual cool and not overdone.
Hi Everett I am guess is it s jean but since it looks like the 70s I wouldn’t put it being beige or brown past him!
As someone who’s still on a style journey and has concluded that preppy and English tweed are too far from my personal taste, that Helmut Lang outfit really hit home. Thanks for helping me.
Hi Jonas, yes I’m really enjoying the clean sort of 90s New York minimalism as a counter point to the overload of fun preppiness and overly expose creaminess of “old money aesthetic”
I have exactly the same pair of Helmut Lang jeans in the photo. They used to be very popular in Italy during the 90s.
They are a good example of what I thought at time to be a timeless piece which probably is not. Having said that they seem to sell for £200 on EBay and I am really curious to know what kind of person would buy them / which style they would fit today.
There’s a brown Tom Ford suede Trenchcoat (medium 48) on Vinted for around £1500 with authentication available. https://www.vinted.co.uk/items/4015010709-tom-ford-suede-trench?referrer=catalog
Ooo, now that is sweet!
Not a suede trench, but thrifted this leather Purple Label blazer. I have my own ideas, but how would you style it, Simon?
Oo, that’s a hard one Ryan. Could look like quite flashy quite easily (on me anyway!). I’d start with something simple like charcoal flannels and a black knit, something like that
Yeah, I thought the only way to wear it would be to lean into something sleazy. I don’t know if there’s any way to wear it where it doesn’t come off as eccentric.