Lucas is a great ‘moodboarder’, much better than me. Where my outfit choices are often driven by individual pieces - their craft and materials - and working outwards to an outfit, Lucas is often the opposite, starting with style inspiration and the mood of certain looks, and then working inwards.
I think menswear guys tend to be a little too much like me, focusing on the details at the expense of style. And I’ve found Lucas’s moodboards inspirational myself, giving me new ideas and a sense of direction. So I asked him to pull together a few of his current favourites - from the thousands he has - and give his views on why he finds them inspiring at the moment.
He has also suggested some places to buy similar things, but these aren’t necessarily recommendations and by no means comprehensive. If you have suggestions in those categories, do add them.
By Lucas Nicholson
Summer gets a bad rap in terms of dressing: the lack of layering and texture means things can feel stale, or with too many layers, stifling. So I’ve deliberately picked images here that I find directional, and steered clear of simple classics we’ve all seen before (Steve Mcqueen in a T-shirt etc).
Some of them aren’t a literal representation of the style I’m enjoying, but rather conjure a mood. Often it's a sense of a particular place and time, and then the clothes you'd want to be in - with the sun on your face, a drink in your hand, surrounded by loved ones. Who wouldn’t want to be well-dressed for that?
Not every style will be for everyone, but we've tried to include a range from tailoring to casual. And if just one or two of these make you look forward to getting dressed this summer (and perhaps dressing more like yourself), then we’ve done our job.
The summertime blues
Giorgio Armani showing denim is for summer. He looks great with the deep tan, shock of white hair and opposing blues.
I’ve always had an aversion to wearing jeans in summer as I run hot, but this makes me want to think again. I also think the blue of the T-shirt is interesting, and maybe not what people would normally choose, but it adds interest to a simple outfit where white would be a bit plain.
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Hanks for the inspiration
When I stumbled across this picture of a young Tom Hanks I stopped dead - this is exactly how I want to wear tailoring in the summer: loose, light, tonal.
Hanks wears a double-breasted beige suit with a tonal T-shirt, the shoulder soft and the buttoning low.
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A Grand Slam-an
I realised after picking this that it's from Saman Amel, but it’s an image that's been running round my head ever since I saw it. It’s so simple but so chic: a great soft, open-collared polo, tailored white trousers and leather sandals.
I think this is some kind of ideal of summer holiday in the south of France or rural Italy. You’ve spent the day by the pool and had a couple of glasses of white wine, you’re dressed to walk the 10 minutes to the local village to have dinner under the stars on a terrace overlooking a vineyard. I might not ever wear exactly this, but it will definitely inspire me.
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Piercing looks
Pierce Brosnan waiting for a taxi (not sure if he actually is but it has an airport taxi-rank vibe) wearing a light blue shirt and micro check jacket, with a stronger shoulder line and dropped notch.
This has the relaxed yet tailored feel that I think is perfect for the PS reader. The lightweight wool is easy to travel with and won’t get too warm, the light-blue shirt is effortless and adds a cool tone to the outfit. The micro check also adds texture to the jacket, which can sometimes be something lacking in summer cloths.
I like the way Brosnan’s shirt collar is outside the jacket but not in a full-flat-fold like you see at Pitti; it’s just a relaxed, unfussed vibe. The heavyweight glasses also add interest to the face, balancing that boldness.
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No.1 Fran
Fran Lebowitz showing how being dressed minimally doesn’t have to be boring.
I like the way she has her cuffs folded out, and the classic colour palette of white button-down and blue knit. A cotton sweater can be so nice for the evening in the summer - breathable enough to not be too warm but heavy enough to feel comforting against the breeze.
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(I know self-promotion is not what this piece is about, but this cotton knit with Speciale is actually my favourite cotton I’ve ever had!)
Ferry good tailoring
Bryan Ferry in a beige suit with a blue shirt (Italian background!) and a heavy repp tie, with canvas dress shoes. It makes me think of sneaking off the dance floor at a wedding to catch my breath and grab a negroni, the heat blaring and music still ringing in my ears.
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Deniminimalism
Ralph is Ralph, so this isn’t a direct copy-and-paste situation but the heavily worn jeans and crisp white tuxedo shirt is the kind of juxtaposition that's very inspiring. I would probably go for a plain-white poplin shirt, because a tuxedo shirt with jeans outside of a runway show is harder for us normies to get away with.
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Loro Loro Fun
Sergio Loro Piana, the master, showing us how to wear a cream suit.
I think a cream suit can definitely become showy or ostentatious, but the more I see images like this (or ones like Manish’s piece here) the more I want to try and embrace it. It isn’t the easiest option, but with a white shirt and dark-knit tie it has that Italian elegance that’s so alluring, and manages to not feel too pristine or over the top.
- The Anthology Cream Jacket
- The Anthology Cream Trousers
- Trunk White Shirt
- William Crabtree Polka Dot Knitted Tie
Julio? That’s him-io
Julio Iglesias showing sharp suiting can work for warmer weather. Structured tailoring isn’t my personal style, as I have broad shoulders and don’t really need the padding, but I always admire how sharp it can look. I loved Aleks’s article on PS about wearing it in the summer.
This look from Julio (yes we are on a first name basis) made me think of seeing Maximilian Mogg in a high-twist peak-lapel suit under the heat of the Florentine sun. Also shout out to the big sunglasses again, with a light tint. Wearable until dusk, they help to soften the sharpness of the suit.
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Taupe draw
I'm going to use this opportunity to talk about something I have been thinking about a lot recently: the return of bootcuts. You can see how flattering they are on Princess Di in lengthening the leg. With a tonal shirt tucked in, the effect is a long slim silhouette. The open shirt further enhances the effect.
Popover and underrated
Ok so I lied about not having any classics, but Robert Redford in a Breton-stripe polo and light-coloured trousers is too good not to share.
Although not exactly the same, I have had my eye on the shirt below from HE Sports in terry toweling, perfect for throwing on after a dip in the sea or icy pool.
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Come Jane or shine - Jane Birkin
The lived-in nature of this outfit is what appeals to me - the shirt that looks like it’s been washed a hundred times, the faded jeans, and everything just looks soft, easy and loose.
The hastily rolled sleeves and small watch on a leather strap also feel like effortless summer chic. The subtly striped shirt and faded jeans add depth and interest.
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Lemon rizz-le (one for our Gen-z readers)
This look from Don Johnson is actually one I used last summer, wearing light wash jeans and my yellow PS oxford shirt with some loafers. It’s a look I’ll reach for again this summer.
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First and second Gere
Two Richard Gere looks for you, demonstrating the power of the shirt in summer. The first desmonstrates the power of an undershirt for layering in summer - wear a light T-shirt or a favourite of mine, the perforated vest from Scott Frasier Collection.
I also found the Drake's shirt below, which is close to the pink Richard is wearing. Stronger in colour than a baby pink, it can hold its own against the blue jeans.
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Image two is subtle and sexy evening, leaning into wearing black but still in an easygoing way. Also note the light-tint sunglasses again.
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Very smart – minor correction. Bryan Ferry is wearing correspondent shoes which aren’t canvas-based – usually suede and leather…
Hi Vik
Thanks for the note, do you have any recommendation for where to get them?
Crockett and Jones do a version, but to match your summer vibe, New and Lingwood also have a pair I believe in a basket weave and Leather – quite nice for the warmer weather. Otherwise the only (good) options seem to be bespoke. My pair was Poulsen and Skone but are about 15 years old now…
Best correspondent shoes in terms of bang for your buck are arguably from Joseph Cheaney. I have several pairs from their Edwin range, which I love wearing in summer, e.g.
https://www.cheaney.co.uk/edwin-two-tone-oxford-brogue-in-dark-leaf-calf-sand-canvas-p88?srsltid=AfmBOooYqzEHtBTgQgNBEJ_go1xT4U9Yum7wvVOpWIfEjG6qO4xbB57d
Paul Stuart is also selling something similar this season.
They used to be more popular with the Northampton shoemakers but the style went out of fashion (unless you frequent certain ex-pat/journalist bars in Chiang Mai and Ho Chi Minh) You do see Alfred Sargent, Cheaney and Crockett /& Jones versions popping up on eBay and Vinted a fair bit. Brooks Brothers also commissioned a few (I assume Allen Edmonds)
These are more properly know as Spectator shoes, as they were originally often associated with “spectators” of sporting events.
…only if you are from the U.S. In Great Britain, the shoe was originally designed as a cricket shoe in 1868. The term “correspondent shoes” is a pun that refers to the contrasting colors of the shoes and the legal term “co-respondent,” which describes a third party involved in an adultery case. This nickname emerged in the 1920s and 1930s when the shoes were associated with flamboyant styles and those considered cads or lounge lizards.
Bootcut pants. Where to get good ones? I only know of husbands that sort of does them well. Any other suggestions?
That is a great question, beyond denim I don’t think we have reached the bootcut renaissance, I think Maximilian Mogg does them as well. Unfortunately I haven’t seen any off the peg models though.
There are great vintage options by lee and levis.
It’s also really worth checking out Wrangler Wranchers, even though they have a million things going against them:
Okay that was less than a million, still stressful enough.
BUT, when you finally get the pair that fits well, you’ll see why it’s so well revered, it’s a wonderfully fitting flared, bootcut pant.
OK – I’ve got a bootcut jeans from RRL that I’m gonna unleash on you all. Summer just got hotter!
This is a family friendly website can we please keep it PG! HA!
Lol – too late Lucas!
Edward Sexton’s parallel trousers would do the trick, provided they’re hemmed long enough to puddle a bit.
Lucas, do you create these moodboards on pinterest?
Secondly Simon and Lucas, perhaps a moodboard function could be something for PS. Combining existing photos of indviduals as you have here with ones of PS contemporaries that you have taken inspiration from.
Hi Richard,
I do use Pinterest mainly my username is lucasnicholson on there if you want to find me.
I love photoboards. The only comment I have is while the suit [which I once wore heavily for business] is barely clinging on in life support.
Which I don’t see as a bad thing. The other photos are interesting for what can work. Or not.
Good job Richard has those sunglasses on at night – can never be too careful
I think it was so he doesn’t get blinded by the glint of that Rolex he is wearing!
Hi Lucas, Hanks for this a very interesting and informative article.
I’m definitely with you on the mood board approach. Otherwise I have in the past tended to end up with some interesting individual items but less an overall look. In your examples it does help where people are exceptionally good looking and tanned! . I tend to go with Simon’s suggestion of covering the face to get more focus on the look, the Jane Birkin picture is good example, the mood is great and an excellent example of understated chic. Also really like Fran Lebowitz look. Both highlight the strength of simplicity in a summer look.
Suggest also looking at Alessandro Squarzi for inspiration. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/03/the-squarzi-capsule-how-to-dress-like-alessandro.html
Thanks again.
Ha! Yes the good looking rich tanned celebrity does have a bit of a head start on us normies. I think that can reinforce the point of the character of the man beyond the clothes. Be true to yourself and wear what you want and you will look good!
Good point Lucas.
I thought this was a great article and hope it is repeated for the seasons. And thank you for the introduction to HE Sports, great to see a North East brand. My main reflection is how much mood boards like this have to draw on the 70s, 80s and 90s (I know you are reflecting classic menswear). I do wonder who the artists or designers are that we will point to in 30 years with similar nostalgic warmth.
Hi Michael,
Glad you liked it! Such a good question, who will we be looking back on in the future for inspiration. Bit of a mind bender. I think it seems with the de-centering of celebrity as a cultural totem we have now more space for the brand leaders/designers and the influencer space. But in the fast paced social world I do sometimes wonder if people have long enough to truly develop a personal sense of style anymore!
I loved this article – great outfits and a fun read! I’d be all for more moodboard-inspired posts in the future. Personally, I always also struggle with thinking about outfits as a cohesive whole. I tend to focus on piecing together individual items and stressing over each one, forgetting that it’s the entire outfit people notice, not just the separate items!
The second Pierce Brosnan look really stood out to me – that is casual tailoring to a tee! It looks effortlessly cool, but now I’m wondering: was it really as easy as it seems, or did he spend hours perfecting that collar, adjusting it just so, then re-adjusting it again for maximum cool factor? Sweating away at the thought of getting it wrong! 😅 Either way, it’s definitely a look I’ll be trying to channel.
To try and replicate the look I clicked on the Brioni link, was admiring the jacket in detail before I saw the price tag. Made a swift exit before I got too carried away! 😬
Oh thats great! Thank you! You know its amazing the amount of times I’ve stood in front of a mirror and been like hmm, this doesn’t work like i’ve thought all the pieces are great but they aren’t coming together as I imagined and then you change one or two things and it suddenly clicks.
I think he definitely spent the whole plane journey balancing his collar just so for the image, at least thats what I would have done. Haha yes as mentioned links were for “inspiration” To be honest Brioni is one of those brands you can find for 99% off retail on ebay so you can probably find a similar jacket for not too much.
A great writeup Lucas!
Just a quick one but is the picture of Diana AI? It looks like it to me. Great photo and inspiration nonetheless!
How strange! I’ve just done a dive and it does seem to have AI accusations, outfit still stands though! This is the danger of the time we live in! You could be taking style inspiration from a bot!
What a lovely article and a fun read!
This moodboard does show: you do not need fancy clothing to look stylish, devil‘s in the details and after all the basics are what one needs to perfect and strive for. I try to embrace this as well but sometime you get that ick to really do something to stand out ha!
On another note: I think the Princess Diana Picture is AI-generated (even tho it is a very good one!)
Exactly! glad you enjoyed it! Yes it seems Diana is the AI Bots princess in this one.
Lucas
Thanks for such an interesting article and also for sharing your Pintrest. I’ve enjoyed looking through it almost as much as I did reading your article.
Hi Sean
Great, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Haha I am an avid collector of images but not a great sorter of images so there are some mixed boards on there!
Brilliant, time for a Lookbook update to go along with this great summer theme.. please…
Hi Jim
Good point, I will speak to Simon about that.
Love that Armani blue on blue look! So simple, so stunning and so Summer!
I like Armani’s outfit. I don’t like that kind of speckled wash on mid blue denim.
I don’t like where we are currently in the trend cycle with the oversized stuff. That aside Hanks looks good as well.
Amel looks great, but I suspect the photography is doing a lot of work here (making the fabrics look more silky than they are irl).
Brosnan’s hair is too dark for him to be wearing such a light jacket/shirt combo. A more lightly padded jacket in a more textured fabric would better fit the insouciance he’s going for.
Fran needs iron.
Again, not my preferred zeitgeist but Ferry looks great.
On anyone but Ralph that outfit doesn’t work. Only kidding: it doesn’t work on Ralph either. Stick to the OCBD and get on with it. His jeans need a longer back rise and wider hips. His loafers need a more substantial sole.
Sergio’s suit is just bad. His frame can’t carry the oversized cut and patch pockets on a db look horrible. I’ve found better at the local Salvation.
If there’s a drabber fabric than Julio’s gray I can’t imagine it. Flat, stale, lifeless. Undermines the excellent tailoring.
Diana looks impeccable.
I’ve never seen a breton stripe that wouldn’t look better as a solid.
Really enjoyed reading Lucas’ moodboard selections (and those ever so stylish captions!) – if I could pull off Armani’s ‘shock of white hair and opposing blues’ I’d be contented all summer.
Ha! Same!
is that photo of princess Di AI, or AI-upscaled? It looks really odd, but I can’t quite figure out why
Hi Marc
See comments above, we think it is AI its has pervasively managed to sneak its way in to our moodboard.
Lucas, the 70s called, they want their vibe back… 🙂
Well they can’t have it, I have it now and I’m keeping it!
Great mood board overall, but I just wanted to ask about the source of the Princess Diana photo. It looks like it may be AI-generated to me. Mainly the crotch area and her eyes. It would be a shame because she’s such a rich source of fashion inspiration.
Yes Graeme, that’s mentioned in the comments above
Ah, hadn’t seen that, apologies.
What makes this interesting is – with the exception of Ralph who always looks ridiculous anyway – are clothes being worn by people to live in rather than to pose in. That’s what makes them so stylish and so individual.
We all draw influence from somewhere and as a 72 year old flaneur who has been ploughing his style furrow since he was 14, it’s always been the arts and music. Never the self obsessed poseurs who spend hours getting dressed only to look completely contrived.
Ferry, Gere, Brosnan and McQueen are great examples of people who wear their clothes to live. I bet Brosnan never gave a thought to that collar – he just did it !
Yes exactly more clothes for living and not just posting on the internet!
Thanks for this,
Having recently moved from the UK to a very hot climate, I have struggled enormously with dressing well (either professionally or casually) and finding options that don’t default back to “wear linen” or “don’t wear longs socks” don’t offer much in the way of the philosophy and “how” behind creating a hot climate wardrobe befitting the standards we see on PS from cooler climates.
Hi Dave,
Glad it helped! Dressing for the heat is a major challenge. I always default back to looser cuts as even in heavier cloths I find them much more comfortable for the heat.
Hi Dave, living in subtropical weather I can tell you that it is an attitude change as well! Never lived in the UK but I imagine the weather simply allows for much more variety and an air of “put-togetherness” by layering, even just a knit over a shirt or something.
For the heat, you may need to become more comfortable with the idea of less is more and find ways to bring your style in to that. Silhouette, texture, and color choice matter more if you’ll only wearing shorts and a shirt.
Environmental factors like what time of day you’ll be out for, the cloud cover, breeze, the duration of the outing, whether it’s all sun or mostly under shade, if you’re moving or sitting sipping a piña colada or chasing kids. Plus, sometimes it’s also about being comfortable sweating and planning accordingly, have a shirt / shorts / underwear that dry quick like ramie, linen, lightweight cotton, etc. So you don’t feel so impacted. Lightweight Merino underwear are great here!
Also, check out Simons recent article on untucked shirts. It’s great practical advice for shorts. Lastly, take solace that most people simply don’t dress well in the heat. Takes the pressure off a little!
Hi Simon
Would you say the finest polo has a higher collar than this one from the anthology?
I can’t find any pictures of you wearing it with the second button done
Slightly, yes, but not a lot
How else would you say the collar differs?
The PS one is a little sharper, being a high-twist wool, and slightly more structured in the knit. That’s only an improvement if you want to ever wear it with tailoring though
Simon this a great and indeed a unique post.
I think that the Pierce Brosnan “Airport Taxi rank” look is the one that does it for me. That’s an amazing way to describe the look and, if I may add:- I love flying and travel and airports and watching airport flight videos and one of the reasons passengers may get bumped up to business class: apart from turning up early and being super polite is good dress sense…an article on airport dress sense might make an interesting post in itself.
The one other look is the second (image two) Richard Gere look which IMO would also make a great smart casual travel look…I wonder what kind of jacket, if any, would complete that look!
I love denim but I also run hot, so jeans in the summer were always no-no – at least if you wanted the Japanese stuff as it’s impossible to find anything below 12 oz.
But then I found this and my life was never the same: https://sonofastag.com/products/oni-022-svch-8-5oz-selvedge-chambray-wide-straight-jean-one-wash?_pos=4&_sid=fa790b0b2&_ss=r
(Ok so it’s technically chambray and not denim, but shhhhhhh)
Thanks Robert, those look nice. Jelt denim is a nice option too (though I don’t know techinically the similarities or differences)
Really enjoyable Lucas. More pieces like this please. It’s helpful that you include examples of what women are wearing in this too – so many good ideas that are easily transferable: the Jane B look is pretty much my uniform as it is.
I have one note: the last image you recommend the LEJ workshirt in black. I have the same model in white, and I love it, but watch out, you might find that 280gsm HBT it’s made from is seriously heavy and thick for a hot summer night…
Good note on the LEJ shirts, definitely more of a summer evening thing than day! Glad you enjoyed the post! Yes the Jane look is classic and feeds in nicely to my stimulating shirt post I did a while a go, I think it really comes in to its own in summer when there is less visual interest in layers.
Love the mood board and emplore the team to consider making it a habit for the seasons!
Thank you Lucas for sharing your pinterest as well. Richard Gere has inspired me to wear more black jeans with alligator belts and blazers / stylish button ups. Now I see where Simon gets it!
Aside from that, everyone shows why having confidence tends to make you look better, you don’t need to be better looking as many have alluded to (Giorgio, Fran, and Piana show why). Of course knowledge of proportions, texture, and color to be seem to be indispensable!
Finally, I am still waiting on the “dress like Lucas” post!
Cheers
Hi Calvin, we should be able to make this a semi regular post hopefully it helps to visualise some outfits! Yes Richard Gere in the 90s especially is a really big inspiration for me, manages to be sexy, mature and relevant for now. Definitely agree that confidence and being comfortable in what your wearing is the key to really looking good!
Im also sure we can do a dress like I’ll speak to Simon about putting it in to the line up.
For the Tom Hanks suit (or jacket): Where would one get something like that made bespoke? I’m talking specifically about that silhouette. Anything in Hong Kong?
Given how specific the style is, to have any certainty I think you really need to talk to a tailor that already cuts something similar. I’d say one of the Korean tailors – Assisi, Luca Museo, B&Tailor – would probably be best
Hi Lucas, I just quickly wanted to say that I revisited this post today and there are some really great ideas here. To be honest I did not really give the post much thought when it first appeared. But now I realise that this was because I was not yet able to emulate the “vibe” of a picture rather than the exact outfit. I wouldn’t wear most of the outfits pictured (apart from something similar to the Brosnan double denim and the Jane Birkin “very LEJ” jeans and shirt look). But I love the *vibe* of these pictures and got a lot out of them now… Cheers!
Thanks Liam I am glad you found it useful! Often these things are about hitting the timing right and that will be different for everyone! I’m glad you revisited it!