Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

Wednesday, March 13th 2019
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One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range.

Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before we opened - or perhaps in the early afternoon - where I could try stuff on and quiz him about it.

Some of the pieces were a little traditional in their stye for me, but every one had the same thoroughness of thought and quality of materials that we now associate with Bryceland’s.

I’ll start, however, with the Sawtooth Westerner shirt (pictured above), as it’s the one piece I’ve had for a while and worn regularly.

Designed after a vintage piece (as most Bryceland’s things are), the Sawtooth is a heavy denim shirt with western details and long fronts and tails.

The latter detail is a vintage one, but also one that makes the shirt most interesting to fans of tailoring - as it makes the shirt much easier to keep tucked in to a pair of trousers.  

The collar is a little low to comfortably sit above tailoring jackets, but it can be folded a little higher on the neck to make this easier, and it has a relatively trim fit, which again helps under tailoring.

I’m wearing a 38 in the images here, which is just about OK on the shoulders, and a nice fit through the waist. The 40 is perhaps better on the shoulders, but a little bulky in the waist.

The first thing you notice about the Sawtooth, though, is how stiff it is. It’s simply uncomfortable the first time you wear it.

But after 2 or 3 washes and wears, it softens markedly, and only feels nicer and softer over time - as well as starting to fade nicely at the edges and seams. 

The process is similar to wearing in raw-denim jeans, which will often feel nicer than pre-washed models over years. A denim that starts stiff like that creases more sharply, creating edges that take more abrasion and expose the white core of the yarn, and leaving the lows deeper and darker. 

Mine, pictured, has probably been washed and worn 10-12 times. Ethan’s, which he wears twice a week and never bothers to iron - just machine washing and drying - is even better, and had several customers in the pop-up asking if they could buy it. 

Interestingly, however, Ethan was keen to produce a shirt that reflects the wearer - how they wear it and wash it - rather than a denimhead's ultimate cloth.

So while the denim comes from a small family-owned mill in Okayama, it is deliberately one without a lot of slubbiness or streaking - often things denim obsessives like - and rather something easy to use and wear.

As Ethan puts it: "The easy care, rugged and no nonsense nature of our cloth choices tends to extend across everything we make. We favour cloth that will age dependant on how it is worn, that is easily washed and dried, and that will get better with age.

"I find myself choosing camel hair or shetland wools over cashmere, oxford cloths over poplins, cordovan over french calf. Our casual range is almost exclusively made in Japan with Japanese woven cloth in weights that err towards the heavier side for durability."

Frankly, at this point the Sawtooth is one of my favourite things to wear with more casual clothing. It feels incredibly familiar, fits well, and is vintage-styled without being over the top.

It’s interesting to compare it to some of the other Bryceland’s shirts, which while I admire for the make, are too stylised for my taste. The Cabana shirt and Rayon shirt both have lovely details, like the thin band-like cuffs, but have a collar that’s too big for me.

And I was interested in the black version of the Sawtooth (a tribute to ‘The Man in Black’, Johnny Cash) but black would be too hard to fit into the rest of my wardrobe - given it largely consists of brown shoes and other warm tones of classic menswear.

If the fit works for you, though, the more sartorial tab-collar and button-down Bryceland’s shirts are nice. And indeed I really liked the styling of the USN chambray shirt - the fit just didn't work.

(Fit matters rather less in a heavy shirt like the Sawtooth, as it’s never going to have a clean drape in any fit, and shows tightness less too.)

Probably my favourite piece I bought during the pop-up was Bryceland’s RAF Rollneck Pullover (above).

This is a deceptive piece. It looks simple: a normal lambswool rollneck, made in Scotland. But the body shape is a vintage one, with a very narrow waist and tall rib.

That rib is super stretchy. Somehow it manages to be a close fit on me, enlarging into a big, flattering chest and shoulders, yet still fits someone like Ethan.

It’s the only fit of sweater I’ve ever found that is nice and trim through the waist, yet roomy at the top, and has enough material to not ride up when you move. The perfect combination.

Of course other vintage-inspired brands have done this cut - I used to have a striped one from North Sea Clothing. But those are usually in heavier, coarser wools, and frankly are only useable as outerwear.

The other pieces I wanted to try at the pop-up, and hadn’t done before, were the Chore Coat and Type 1 denim jacket (above).

The Chore Coat I was interested to wear over tailoring. But while the material was great (both white herringbone and jelt denim - a crisp, lightweight denim with natural slubbiness) the fit was too A-line for me.

The Type 1 jacket I would wear over a shirt, as a mid-layer under a coat. This was rather short in the body, and apparently gets shorter when washed. It was therefore marginal whether it would work on me given my height.

But I tried it with higher waisted trousers and the length was OK, so that became my second purchase. I was also taken (as I should have expected) by the exclusive iron buttons, which are designed to rust slightly over time.

 

Ethan (right) in the original archive piece that inspired the Army Chinos. Adam (left) of Adret pretends not to care.

Elsewhere, the Army Chinos I found too oversized in the leg, and a very high rise (just under the ribs). Equally the Gurkha Shorts. 

The Denim 133 jeans are less extreme than the chinos - high but not so high, pretty straight in the leg - but I couldn’t justify getting any more jeans.

And in the pictures of myself wearing the Sawtooth shirt, I'm also wearing a Lee Kung Man undershirt: a Hong Kong brand that Bryceland’s carries.

That I’ve found to be great, its idiosyncrasy being that it is very tight on the arm and armpit when you first put it on - but this actually stops it moving around at all, making it very comfortable as underwear.

Lastly, I’ve tried the Bryceland’s boxer shorts, which are fantastically made (have a look at the overlapping tabs on the waistband at the back) but have a high rise that I find only works with equally high-rise trousers.

Bryceland's tends to do small runs of products, and individual sizes are sometimes out of stock. Instagram is usually the best place to see what's coming back into stock - although some things, like the Sawtooth and the Denim 133 jeans, aren't usually unavailable for long.

In the pictures of me I am also wearing:

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man except those in the pop-up, Buzz Tang. 

For background on Bryceland's Co, read about my visit to them in Japan here

 

Willy of The Anthology in Bryceland's Denim 133 jeans
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Felix Sylvester Eggert

I really like these reviews where I can hear your take on brands. Especially when they are not easily accessible such as Bryceland.

By the way, speaking about accessibility (albeit slightly off topic): what do you think about the range of Adret in terms of style, quality and design? Will there be a coverage soon?

I am especially interested in the olive-brown suede cap, which seems to have a very interesting design. It seems like the brim isn’t attached to the top as usual with these kind of caps, making the cap nicely manipulatable. It could either be worn flat looking like a traditional flat cap, or pulln by the brim towards the face, heightening the “crown” and almost looking like a cap – at least from what I saw on Instagram.

Marco

I have been looking for this Shirt, but can‘t find it. Can you link me to a shop where it’s still available

Pyc

Hi Simon,

Are the buttons on the sawtooth shirt mother of pearl?

Regards,

Pyc

Ross

I have a Lee Kung Man undershirt which I got from Bryceland on a trip to Tokyo 2 years ago. It’s really light weight and I hardly notice it once it’s on. I highly recommend them. They seem impossible to find anywhere else.

Anton

Hi Simon,

I know it’s not a question thats related to your last post but I just need your opinion in this inquire. I’m about to go for a four season dark navy suit. And I want a fabric thats strenght for everyday use. (I’m not going to wear the suit every single day of the week, but you know what I mean). And I’m about to choose the fresco fabric from huddersfield. Is that a bad choice for a four season suit of use? It’s around 300 grams.

Anton

Thank you for sharing your point of view Simon. I will have that in mind, great article as always. Cheers!

marcus

simon, great writeup as usual, thanks. i wonder how you wash the westerner sawtooth, though. cold wash? how about shrinkage here with qashing? i reckon the shirt is sandorized, but wouldnt there be shrinking nevertheless?

Christian

I got some shrinkage out of mine when I washed it hit (40 degrees). Probably around 2-3 cm in the sleeves.

This is is defenitely a shirt that gets better when washed. I prefer hot washes, to get all the shrinkage out and the fading becomes more even.

Daniel

Hi Simon,
In your opinion, how wide the leg opening should the shorts have?
I think that they look better when being slightly wider than trousers, would you agree?

Joel

Have you considered being a stockist of some pieces from the sellers at your pop-ups?

Joel

Cheaper postage, quicker delivery for the customer in England and probably Europe. More income for you.

Joel

Never.

Peter O

Dear Simon,

Your fashion evolution grows from love of denim cloth to cowboy cut. The term “Western” is correct nevertheless tricky. Midwesterners (Chicago) would remind you that Western actually means Cowboy. Johnny Cash dressed “Western” but wasn’t a cowboy, but a well-dressed “Hillbilly” (Ozarks).

Ben

The rollneck is interesting. Do you have a photo of someone—anyone—wearing it? Can’t find it via google or on BL’s insta.

REUVEN L LAX

I’ve been wearing a Bryceland’s Type1 denim jacket since November. It is indeed quite short, and I think mostly works well with high-waisted trousers. While I’m sure they will eventually, the iron buttons have not yet rusted at all, even in damp Seattle.

Anonymous

Not sure a JLC fits this outfit.

Oskar

Do you expect any seasonal limits to wearing your 18/19oz cotton trousers? Did you have to wear in those as well? Thanks

Dominic

Dear Mr. Crompton,
As I am sure you are aware, a certain tradition known as ‘trashing’ exists at the University of Oxford, where those who have just finished their exams would be greeted by a combination of shaving foam, glitter, and confetti, only to be washed away as the students throw themselves into the river. I wonder what your sartorial advice will be for an occasion such as this? Is there any way my suit (part of the dress code for exams) can still be salvageable after this ordeal?
Regards,
Dominic

Joel

You have to post photos of the red beard.

Joel

A cream cashmere hankie from A&S. I hope you never have to use it. Ha ha ?

Jackson Hart

I once worked in the Time Warner building in NYC and was presented with the horrible Sophie’s Choice, during an elevator ride, of offering my cashmere/silk Simonnot Godard hankie to a uncontrollably sneezing and snorting very famous super model on her way to a photo shoot or being a very public cad. As beautiful as she was, I couldn’t bring myself to imagine her blowing into my most cherished of squares. So, I shamefully, but discretely pushed it deep into my jacket pocket, safely hidden out of site as I turned my head away from her and her multitude of handlers. My friends say I missed the chance of marrying a super model. I say I saved a hankie.

Bernie

Hi Simon,

The RAF turtleneck seems thick. Do you tuck it in?

Bernie

Thanks for your response.

I feel that tucking knitwear it feels warmer, but it may only look non-affected with a sports coat on

Thomas

The link to the Fox website doesn’t work.

Martin

These trousers also look great. If they would fit too wide, would you use the side adjuster buttons or have them altered?

Cory

I’m wondering as to the weight of the denim shirt. Would you happen to know or have some idea?

Ben

I live in Hong Kong. Given the sawtooth shirt weighs 10oz, I suppose it’s only for autumn/winter here? I am very in buying one but I am not sure if it is wearable in Hong Kong…

Johannes

Do you know of any store (now that the pop-up is gone) that stocks the sawtooth denim shirt in London?

j

Just checking – sadly this is still true, right? No stockists in Europe?

Neil Tang

Hi Simon,

How would you compare Bryceland’s and Private VC’s rollneck pullovers? I understand you own both.

On the note of colour, I notice your preference for navy as it’s the most versatile. What do you think of the other colours for rollneck in a wardrobe, e.g. light grey, ecru/off white?

Thanks.

Neil Tang

Thanks for the reply, Simon.

I can certainly understand the reason for preference for navy in relation grey trousers.

On the note of cream being showy, I certainly think they stand out more compared to navy or light grey but I do think they can look rather elegant.

Ben

I own one sawtooth as well. it bled slightly into the belt-loop area of the trousers. i think it is normal. how did you overcome this when you wear a pair of beige trousers like this?

Ben

Yes I washed once already. The bleeding is not serious. But there is still some. That’s why I am curious how you overcame it. Anyway thanks. It should be better after a few more washes!

shem

hey simon i assume you had the chance to try on the cabana shirt… how would you advise sizing and are the sleeves in your size too slim?

andy

hi simon, given your praise on the sawtooth shirt, it came as a surprise that you listed it on marrrkt- is there any reason you’ve listed it as i was planning to perhaps purchase this in the upcoming pop up.

AJ

Hi Simon, do you find the armholes on the sawtooth westerner to be particularly high? I have one that fits me nicely otherwise but I feel is very snug under the armpits.

Henki82

Hello AJ – I have the same problem. The armholes feel particularly high compared with other shirts I have. How did you resolve this problem if I may ask?

Shem Teo

Hi simon how does the bryceland chino compare in fit with the Armoury ones?

I have the Armoury flat front and gurkha chinos and am considering whether to add the bryceland ones if there is value add. Also is the bryceland one more of a beige as compared the the khaki of the Armoury?

Shem

Hey simon, I notice in a couple of articles where you often write that this shirt/trouser/suit has become a favourite piece of yours. I’m wondering in your years of wearing/acquiring so many fine pieces of clothing, what may be some of the pieces you simply keep reaching to wear daily and what may be some you initially thought you would like but ended but not wearing often.

Arthur

Hi Simon,
I’m replacing my collection of oxford shirts and am considering your selection of Oxfords, Bryceland’s Perfect OCBDs, and Drake’s Regular or Slim Fit Oxfords. I thought I’ll first get your opinion on their fit, fabric, and construction. There’s no place close to me where I can try any of these brands, so purchasing online will be my only option. I appreciate any thoughts you have.

Wilson

How’d you size in the RAF Rollneck compared to the Sawtooth Westerner? I know you mentioned you ended up with the 40 in the westerner. Cheers!

Wilson

Thank you! I feel I’m a bit on the fence between a 38 and 40 in the westerner (~38.5-39” true chest, 34” true waist, 15.5-15.75” neck), but I’m leaning 40 based on your comments.

Juan Huertas

Hi Simon. Would like to know how has your experience been with Bryceland’s Type 1 Denim Jacket after owning it for almost one year, particularly regarding its length (but also, in general, its quality and style). I’m considering one for myself, but I’m hesitant since I’m tall (6’4″) and based in NYC, so can’t try it on or easily return it. Thanks in advance!

Anonymous

Simon, on your recommendation, I recently bought the sawtooth western shirt and I’m loving it. I’d appreciate your advice as to how to style it – would you wear it with tailored wool trousers (i.e., flannels, cav twills, etc.) or only more casual trousers such as chinos and cords? Thanks!

Anonymous

Simon,

I’m thinking of ordering one of the USN chambray shirts next fall, but it’s hard to evaluate the shirt online. What differentiates this from less expensive work shirts that I’ve seen? The styling looks very casual—is it particularly well-made? How would you wear something like this (as a way to dress down tailoring, dress up very casual outfits, etc.)? Thank you in advance.

Shem Teo

Hi the most impt aspect is the fit and measurements. Check if it suits you. I have ordered the bryceland chambray and ended up returning it. The shoulders are too huge for the chest. Meaning if you get the chest right the shoulders will be far too huge and the reverse is true. Also the chest pockets are too large and too low. Something you might want to note about bryceland is that returns cannot be returned for refund and only for store credits/item exchange so make sure there are items you want to get if the chambray doesn’t work out for you. I ended up getting the Armoury x real mccoy chambray which I think is great. I would think alot of other brands do great chambrays too

Carl

Nice shirt. I am thinking about buying a western shirt. Do you think that they in general should fit quite slim (like a smart shirt) or should they be oversized (like the current fashion)?

Shem

Hi simon assuming the cabana shirt had a smaller collar would you have seen yourself getting one and how would you have styled it? I assume the shirt cannot be tucked in due to the hip pockets(https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/shirts-1/products/brycelandscabanashirtnavy)

Shem

Thanks Simon can you recall if you were more of an m or l in that. I’m a size 40 in the sawtooth which I think is similar to you

RT

Hi Simon,

I’m really attracted by the denim sawtooth shirt. Having owned for a while, have you found that it shrinks at all with washing? Any other readers have any experience with the shirt they could share, especially with regards to fit and shrinkage?

Anonymous

hello Mr. Crompton. Would you please let us know what do you think of Brycelands towel/voile shirts? Thanks.

Anonymous

Simon, what color did you go for in the RAF roll neck? Are still fond of it? Thanks

Justin

Hi Simon- any chance you have the Brycelands USN chambray shirt? I have the denim sawtooth and love it but find I don’t wear it that often because, when not wearing a suit, I’m often in jeans. I was considering the chambray as a good match for denim and wondered if you had tried it out. Thanks.

Shem

Hi Simon, can I ask what size did you take in the lee kung mun? Large?

kristoffer

Are you wearing a Tank Basculante here? Very nice!

Anonymous

Dear Simon,

I hope this finds you well. I have a couple of questions about your thoughts on a few Bryceland’s pieces and would really be very grateful for any help.

1. On this review you mention that, while you considered the black sawtooth western shirt, you decided against given black would be hard to integrate with the rest of your casual wardrobe. Since writing this, you have published a few articles and pictures (not to mention the Friday Polo in black) about how you have come to wear more black. Would you now wear Bryceland’s black sawtooth? If yes, how would you style it?

2. Also in this review, you say that you opted not to buy the Bryceland’s chore coat because it was too A-line. But I noticed that on another later post you featured the cream version of it. I wonder what has been your experience with it, and whether you would recommend it. Relatedly, did you consider their jelt denim version? If yes, would you mind saying why did you go for the cream?

I realize of course that these are rather long and obnoxious questions and apologize in advance.

Benjamin

I thought I would add my experience on fit and shrinkage in case it is useful. I take a 39/40 depending on cut, I about 33 waist. When the size 40 shirt arrived I thought I had made a mistake as it was almost comically long in the sleeve and large in the shoulder, but as the waist fit well I thought I should wash it and give it a chance. After 2 to 3 washes it had shrunk dramatically and now after 4 to 5, it fits perfectly and while it hasn’t softened much is very comfortable and in fact supportive in a way thinner shirts are not.

One point to note is that I do not have large wrists but the cuff when fastened is very snug, probably why in photos people tend to wear the sleeves turned back or rolled up.

Wilson

Thanks for this insight. I’ve been on the fence about 38 vs 40 for a while now (39-39.5 inch chest, 33 waist, 6 ft, 170 lbs). Would you be able to share how the measurements shook out after all the washes? Cheers!

Joel

Hey Simon,

Very interesting read on the sawtooth shirt. Now I’m intrigued at this one under tailoring. What’s your thoughts on sizing? I’m a Large in your shirts with a 44” chest. Should I go for the 44? Will the neck be huge? Any other sawtooth shirts you would recommend?

j

I also contemplated the brycelands shirt but then went with the Warehouse 3001 Longhorn type Denim Western Shirt (widely available + easy exchanges). I really love the shirt, great make and details. The style is a little simpler, the fabric is sturdy but softens nicely – the weight is also 10oz. Long enough to be worn tugged in. As others I would recommend no buying a close fit as there will be shrinkage.

JJ

Simon, would you wear the Sawtooth as an Overshirt, i.e., untucked over a tshirt with chinos?

JJ

And would/could you have it shortened or re-hemmed?

JJ

Makes sense thanks. Any ideas or suggestions as to where? Much appreciated.

JJ

No worries and thanks, really appreciate the input. I guess my issue is that I want a denim top layer and have issues with the typical denim jackets (i.e., types I, II or IIII) being shorter than I’d like.

As to those typical denim jackets, is there one type you like better over the others? For reference: Type I (https://therealmccoys.com/collections/outerwear/products/lot-001xxj-early-model), Type II (https://therealmccoys.com/collections/outerwear/products/mj18030-140) and Type III (https://therealmccoys.com/collections/outerwear/products/real-mccoys-lot-004j).

JJ

Thanks Simon. That is a great suggestion and not an area I had look into before. After spending an inexcusable amount of time today looking at options online, I’m keen on 2 models: The Real McCoys (https://therealmccoys.com/collections/outerwear/products/8hu-denim-chore-coat) and Bryceland’s (https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/coats-jackets/products/brycelandschorecoat).

I would be much obliged if you could share your thoughts on both, even if only based on what’s available on their respective websites. Thanks in advance.

J

I would neither go for drastic alterations but in the spirit of the today’s article and the example of another reader given in it: Why not take the freedom to wear it like an overshirt if you like the look? „ If it’s not meant to be worn that way I wouldn’t try and change it“ seems a little too strict to me.

shem

Hi simon, wondering what is your take on this sawtooth variation (https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/shirts-1/products/brycelandssawtoothwesternergreen). I dislike the denim version and already have other chambray shirts. So its between the Black and this. Would you see this as useful?

shem

Hey simon, in trying to keep to a smaller wardrobe, I only restrict to getting one shirt in a certain style, especially something which I find quite unusual (as compared to a button down or straight up USN chambray shirt) like a sawtooth with the shoulder pattern/stitching. I was about to say that given your quite casual take on clothes recently, I actually think you will look pretty good with the patterned sawtooth!

Henki82

Very nice article. From what I understand Brycelands offer “two versions” of this shirt – one regular and one “washed”. They look similiar – and it might possibly be the same exact shirt – but one is pre-washed before it is sold i presume. Which ones did you buy if I might ask? The unwashed one?

Henki82

In case other readers might want to know this option is only visible once you choose the size – you get the option to select a “washed” version – but from what I understand it just means that Brycelands has washed/dried the shirt once

Joe Pickering

Hi Simon, with the Byrceland’s London pop-up coming up (at least that I last heard; who knows these days?), could I ask a couple of questions about the sawtooth? First, what do you expect the maximum amount of fading to be on the denim version you have? Generally I prefer paler shirts, and am a bit worried the darker one might be too much of a ‘look’ for me, even after many washes and wears. Second, have you seen/tried their chambray version at all? Thanks in advance!