Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

March 31st 2021

Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...

Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts.  This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure pi...

KnitwearMarch 31st 2021

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

March 17th 2021

Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style.  The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing ...

KnitwearMarch 17th 2021

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

February 15th 2021

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s.  That era s...

Casual clothing - KnitwearFebruary 15th 2021

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

February 8th 2021

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Men...

KnitwearFebruary 8th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class.  John cham...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

January 20th 2021

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves it...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2021

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

December 23rd 2020

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass.  Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 23rd 2020

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

December 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks .  I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of cr...

KnitwearDecember 18th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand.  In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he con...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...

The mock neck

I’m not sure about the mock neck.  It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear b...

Knitwear - November 20th 2020

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

October 12th 2020

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured.  This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - an...

KnitwearOctober 12th 2020

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

October 5th 2020

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop.  The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measur...

Knitwear - TiesOctober 5th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad.  They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in ...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London

August 21st 2020

A reader recently recommended to me the made-to-measure knitwear at 40 Colori, a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London. He has trouble getting knitwear to fit, being rather tall, and 40 Colori did a good job of making a piece to order for h...

40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London

A reader recently recommended to me the made-to-measure knitwear at 40 Colori, a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London.  He has trouble getting knitwear to fit, being rather tall, and 40 Colori did a good job of ma...

Knitwear - TiesAugust 21st 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especia...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

May 27th 2020

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring. This cardigan uses...

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere.  That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tai...

KnitwearMay 27th 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

May 20th 2020

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

    Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe.  We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in q...

KnitwearMay 20th 2020

Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...

April 10th 2020

Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your closet, experimenting with old ...

Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...

Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style.  Time at home means burrowing into your ...

Casual clothing - KnitwearApril 10th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five.  And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

February 17th 2020

It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's view, men too often go fo...

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's...

Knitwear - StyleFebruary 17th 2020

Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh

February 10th 2020

  Best UK menswear store outside London: Dick's, Edinburgh Runner's up: End, Kafka, Oi Polloi, Stewart Christie, Walker Slater, The Bureau, Aero Leather One of the loveliest things about the PS awards this year was the opportunity to highl...

Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh

  Best UK menswear store outside London: Dick's, Edinburgh Runner's up:  End, Kafka, Oi Polloi, Stewart Christie, Walker Slater, The Bureau, Aero Leather One of the loveliest things about the PS awards this year w...

KnitwearFebruary 10th 2020

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

February 5th 2020

Best value product: Uniqlo merino knitwear Runners-up: Natalino trousers, SuitSupply tailoring   When you buy Uniqlo knitwear rather than something more expensive, what are you getting? What is it about the product - rather than where it&rs...

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

Best value product: Uniqlo merino knitwear Runners-up: Natalino trousers, SuitSupply tailoring   When you buy Uniqlo knitwear rather than something more expensive, what are you getting? What is it about the product...

KnitwearFebruary 5th 2020

Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear

January 24th 2020

Colhay’s is a start-up offering Scottish knitwear in slim fits, and some smaller sizes. As unique selling points go, it’s fairly niche. I did debate whether, given that, it was worth a full article on PS. But I I think is, for a couple ...

Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear

Colhay’s is a start-up offering Scottish knitwear in slim fits, and some smaller sizes.  As unique selling points go, it’s fairly niche. I did debate whether, given that, it was worth a full article on PS. But I I ...

KnitwearJanuary 24th 2020

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

December 11th 2019

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London.  I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like t...

KnitwearDecember 11th 2019