If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...

September 8th 2023

  I’ve had a few requests over the years to do one of these, our wardrobe-building guides , about knitwear. One of the challenges of doing so is that very little is right or wrong, and a lot is personal. Still, there are some help...

If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...

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Yes, I think that would be good...

KnitwearSeptember 8th 2023

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

August 9th 2023

Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...

Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery

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I cover a lot of younger tailors G, but I tend not to cover them when they are really starting out, because what they do will often change, and I can't cover them every few years or the site would be nothing but that. On...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 9th 2023

How loopwheel sweatshirt fabric is made – at Aiga...

July 3rd 2023

In the corner of the Aigat mill in Wakayama, there are a few knitting machines that look like none of the others - monsters, hybrids. The rest of the mill is split in two, with the more modern ‘sinker’ machines (below) in one half, woode...

How loopwheel sweatshirt fabric is made – at Aiga...

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True, though even then I find it hard to tell CK. I think you need some more general data really, from shops or broader surveys...

KnitwearJuly 3rd 2023

Finest Polos back in stock, with charcoal and black

May 5th 2023

The Finest Polo - our superfine, high-twist merino knit - is back in stock, with black and charcoal new for this season, alongside navy. The colour choice this summer was partly driven by last summer. I wore a sample of a charcoal at Pitti last yea...

Finest Polos back in stock, with charcoal and black

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Hey Henry, Did you see the link to my Dege jacket outfit? I think that shows how good the charcoal is with cream and with dark brown. I also like it with more grey/brown shades of beige and tan....

KnitwearMay 5th 2023

Spring/Summer Top 10 ’23: Shirts, shorts an...

April 28th 2023

It may still be cold outside (in the UK), but it’s late April and time for a write-up of the Spring/Summer pieces I’ve liked from our favourite brands. If you have any questions about other releases from these brands (or indeed brands n...

Spring/Summer Top 10 ’23: Shirts, shorts an...

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Just underwear in summer, underwear and T-shirt (usually our undershirt) in winter...

Casual clothing - Hanks and scarvesApril 28th 2023

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

April 12th 2023

Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...

Knitwear - SuitsApril 12th 2023

Reintroducing: The Finest Crewneck (and new Dartm...

April 7th 2023

This feels almost nostalgic. The 'finest knitwear' was one of the first proper collaborations we did, six years ago , with the amazing Umbria Verde in Italy. We discontinued it because I wanted to focus on collared knits and cardigans - the Dartmoo...

Reintroducing: The Finest Crewneck (and new Dartm...

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I'm afraid not, no. Sorry it's hard to do as such a small business. The Indulgent Shawl Cardigan might work well for you in the larger sizes, or perhaps the largest donegal coats?...

KnitwearApril 7th 2023

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

March 20th 2023

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

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Yes, absolutely. You just might want to go with different colours, as you suggest. Pink is great, as I'm wearing in the Assisi review. Cream too, or a brown stripe or pink stripe. There aren't as many colours that are ni...

Coats - KnitwearMarch 20th 2023

What makes a quality sweatshirt?

February 8th 2023

Sweatshirts vary hugely in price, from £20 at a fast-fashion brand to well over £200 from a specialist Japanese maker . And even though the price difference is that large among brands we cover - say Merz b Schwnen at £130 and The ...

What makes a quality sweatshirt?

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The Ball Park is heavier, heavier than you'll be used to with a normal sweat. I love it, but it isn't for everyone. It's also cut a little shorter and a little wider. The 10oz is more of a regular weight and I'd recommen...

Casual clothing - KnitwearFebruary 8th 2023

How to hand wash knitwear: Video

December 28th 2022

  The clothing care I’ve always been worst at is washing knitwear. But I have got better in recent years, in part as I’ve become more used to the process and it’s felt more reliable, more predictable. Over time...

How to hand wash knitwear: Video

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I'm sure that's among the best washers, but I don't have experience of a wide range of them, and how ones deal with wools varies quite a lot. Chances are it would be fine, but if you want the best out of knitwear in the ...

Alterations and care - KnitwearDecember 28th 2022

A Dad in California: Styling with Davide of Ghiaia

November 28th 2022

In the past year Davide Baroncini, of knitwear brand Ghiaia, has been putting together and posting some looks that really resonate with me. Comfortable and relaxed, but with a really high taste level, they seem a long way from both the hype-driven ...

A Dad in California: Styling with Davide of Ghiaia

Match in comments:
Thanks, perhaps that would be good to do in another piece, but essentially, if you're selling wholesale then you need to sell to a department store at a price that means both of you can make a profit. If your cost price ...

KnitwearNovember 28th 2022

Indulgent Shawl Cardigan back in stock, with new ...

November 21st 2022

*NB: The black shawl actually has black-horn buttons, not light brown as in the sample shown.* After a good few weeks' delay, I'm pleased to say that the Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan is finally back in stock - in a new black iteration as well as ...

Indulgent Shawl Cardigan back in stock, with new ...

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I don't know the Cordings one, but I'd suggest Anderson & Sheppard or Drakes probably. If you want it slouchier, go for a size up...

KnitwearNovember 21st 2022

Double brown: Just a touch less subtle

November 7th 2022

I think there's a useful variable in considerations of how we dress that we haven't talked about explicitly before: how subtle or showy clothes are. I might write a longer piece on it at some point, but I think it's essentially a spectrum from the v...

Double brown: Just a touch less subtle

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Sure, mines medium...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 7th 2022

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

October 31st 2022

L’Impermeabile gilet, at John Simons £435 This lightly waxed gilet, particularly in the pale beige colour, is reminiscent of the Eddie Bauer style that has become popular in recent years. It’s 100% cotton on the outside though, whi...

Autumn/Winter picks 2022: J Press, RM Williams, A...

Match in comments:
Dear Simon, I'm surely not the only one who's been waiting for that R.M. Williams deep dive! I've been in the market for a Chelsea and I cannot decide between RM and Carmina to try, so I'll need your help I guess!:D Than...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2022

J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York

October 24th 2022

It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...

J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York

Match in comments:
Thanks, yes I've seen those labels before. I think there is quite a bit that's still handwoven, as in it's not too hard to find, even if it's of course a tiny proportion of the market. Crofts in Lewis and Harris are the ...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 24th 2022

Cashmere Rugby restock, with navy

October 14th 2022

The Cashmere Rugby - our reintroduction of the classic four-ply quality of Scottish polo - has just been restocked. A dark navy has been added to last year's flannel grey, covering pretty much all the bases for a slightly classic, slightly better-d...

Cashmere Rugby restock, with navy

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Not until the Autumn I'm afraid Jimmy...

KnitwearOctober 14th 2022

Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter

August 31st 2022

At the beginning of each season recently (spring/summer, autumn/winter) we've been sending out summaries of upcoming products to PS Shop customers. These go to anyone on a waiting list for a product, and anyone that has signed up to marketing emails...

Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter

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Great! thanks....

Coats - Hanks and scarvesAugust 31st 2022

Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...

August 19th 2022

Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. Wh...

Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...

Match in comments:
Excellent, many thanks Peter. Wellies starting the week after that late summer I guess :)...

Knitwear - ShoesAugust 19th 2022

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

August 3rd 2022

Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...

Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring

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Hi Simon / Tim, Today, I acquired the brown waxed Arterton suit carrier, monogrammed, for £100. Very strong but rather heavy but beautifully crafted. I called into Bennett Winch, and looked at their suit carrier, a grea...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 3rd 2022

The slouchy cardigan

June 10th 2022

Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps. First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for warmth. It can look a little ...

The slouchy cardigan

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I don’t see those on their website? Can you share a link?...

Belts and wallets - KnitwearJune 10th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

Match in comments:
Thank you for pointing out carrier company. The jacket was not for me but I came across the fisherman’s jumper. A robust navy roll neck with raglan sleeves - I has been looking for one like this with raglan sleeves for...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos

April 15th 2022

These chinos are the Rubato ones I’ve asked them to reissue, which will be available exclusively in the PS pop-up shop on Savile Row next week. They’re not exactly the same as the originals, which were a single pleat where this is a fla...

Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos

Match in comments:
I generally prefer without, but they can look good with them too. I think it's a question of style - no cuffs will feel a little bit smarter perhaps, but also depends on the shoes, eg if you wear them with a chunky train...

Knitwear - TrousersApril 15th 2022

Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop

April 11th 2022

Le Vif in Paris is one of the most curated vintage stores around. What do I mean by that? Well, it has a particular view on the clothes it offers - in terms of quality, style and origin. It sells Americana, normally American-made. There’s no...

Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop

Match in comments:
Thanks Alan. To be honest there are very few now, since The Vintage Showroom and Hang-Up Vintage both closed. There's Levison's, off Brick Lane, and there are lots more 'fashion' vintage places around there that are some...

Knitwear - ShoesApril 11th 2022

The Finest Polo back in stock, with grey, with notes

March 21st 2022

The Finest Polo - the elegant, knitted summer polo shirt - goes on sale again today, with a new mid-grey colour alongside the navy and cream. And I wanted to take the opportunity to talk about the wear and care of it, as there were a few questions b...

The Finest Polo back in stock, with grey, with notes

Match in comments:
Yes, next Spring I'm afraid. The A&S ones are lovely. The merino isn't as fine and the make isn't as fine, which is why we call ours the finest. But we're talking about a small difference at the very top end. The collar ...

KnitwearMarch 21st 2022

The Spring pop-up: Rubato, Bentley’s, Ludov...

March 18th 2022

*Update: I forgot to say that all PS products will be there too! Sorry, forgot to mention that...* I'm delighted to say that the PS Presents pop-up shop will be back in April, in the same space at The Service, on Savile Row. For Rubato it will be th...

The Spring pop-up: Rubato, Bentley’s, Ludov...

Match in comments:
Thanks Jonathan. Yes, they'll all be there all the way through...

Bags - Belts and walletsMarch 18th 2022