Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

February 4th 2019

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them back in 2013) and to see the...

Carreducker: The pains of learning to saddle stitch

Last week I took part in a leather hand-stitching class organised by Carréducker: British bespoke shoemakers Deborah Carré and James Ducker. It was lovely to see Deborah and James again (I last covered them back in 20...

Accessories - Belts and walletsFebruary 4th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...

Strong colour in accessories

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours j...

Overcoats - ScarvesFebruary 1st 2019

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

January 28th 2019

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Stephen Szczepanek began importin...

Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn

To what extent can rags be beautiful? Is there even a point at which fetishising the clothes of the poor– how threadbare they are, how re-worn and re-hashed – can be disrespectful? Twenty years ago, when Stephen Szc...

AccessoriesJanuary 28th 2019

Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream

January 25th 2019

I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suited to tailoring; and a cream t...

Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream

I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suit...

HatsJanuary 25th 2019

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

January 2nd 2019

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the top of the building, bringin...

Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit

It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the to...

Accessories - BagsJanuary 2nd 2019

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de Ce...

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael H...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

Optimo hats, Chicago

December 12th 2018

Optimo is everything you might want from a craft manufacturer. There was a passionate beginning; a long gestation; success and popularity; and now a beautiful new factory that supports transmission of the craft. Plus a product that is superlative ...

Optimo hats, Chicago

Optimo is everything you might want from a craft manufacturer. There was a passionate beginning; a long gestation; success and popularity; and now a beautiful new factory that supports transmission of the craft. Plus  ...

HatsDecember 12th 2018

Christmas gift list 2018

November 30th 2018

  It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...

Christmas gift list 2018

  It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. I...

Accessories - Belts and walletsNovember 30th 2018

The PS square scarf: available again

November 23rd 2018

The small, fine cashmere scarf I designed three years ago with Begg & Co - intended to be worn on cold days tucked into knitwear - is available again. It's on the PS Shop now, in grey, navy and green. I've reproduced some of the description ...

The PS square scarf: available again

The small, fine cashmere scarf I designed three years ago with Begg & Co - intended to be worn on cold days tucked into knitwear - is available again. It's on the PS Shop now, in grey, navy and green. I've reproduce...

Accessories - ScarvesNovember 23rd 2018

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas tr...

Bags - BootNovember 12th 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, Soul...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, Soul...

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites onli...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 29th 2018

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019

October 10th 2018

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the o...

Casual jackets - HatsOctober 10th 2018

Should your belt match your shoes? (Or bag)

September 21st 2018

This question might seem like an easy one, but I do get a lot of comments and emails about it, so I thought I’d lay it out in a post. No, in short, a leather belt and leather shoes do not have to match. But they should be closely related. So a...

Should your belt match your shoes? (Or bag)

This question might seem like an easy one, but I do get a lot of comments and emails about it, so I thought I’d lay it out in a post. No, in short, a leather belt and leather shoes do not have to match. But they shoul...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 21st 2018

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

August 29th 2018

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is ...

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)...

Hats - MonkAugust 29th 2018

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

August 20th 2018

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better online than others, such ...

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better...

GlassesAugust 20th 2018

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, high...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

July 23rd 2018

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory back in November, I&...

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factor...

Bags - GlassesJuly 23rd 2018

How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

July 18th 2018

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation set up by Jack M...

How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather

Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operatio...

Accessories - BagsJuly 18th 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from D...

Glasses - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in tonal variation...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top h...

Accessories - GlassesJune 11th 2018

Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief

June 6th 2018

This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-satin hanks. Hopefully this off...

Video: How to wear a pocket handkerchief

This was a nice opportunity to do a practical video, and express a forthright opinion. Videos on folding pocket squares and handkerchiefs are normally so terrible. Guys in black suits using fiddly folds to wear yellow-s...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsJune 6th 2018

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

May 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and th...

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questio...

Belts and wallets - JacketsMay 21st 2018

Vintage gold cuff

May 11th 2018

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...

Vintage gold cuff

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. No...

AccessoriesMay 11th 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Accessories - BagsMay 2nd 2018