Autumn/Winter highlights – Colbo, Natalino, Museum Garments
A little late this year, but hopefully this year’s A/W highlights has something for everyone - mid to high price, smart and casual, classic and modern. There’s a particular influence from being in New York recently, and a surprising amount of corduroy.
I’ve also included bespoke/MTM commissions, as I mentioned we would do going forward. Let me know if you want more or less of that. Those pieces will always be covered when they’re ready, but sometimes it can be late in the season by then, and too late for anyone to draw inspiration from them.
August Special ‘Voyager’ boots
£493
I first saw these boots in London back in the spring, when they were still in development. I tried them properly in New York a couple of weeks ago, when I saw Joseph from August Special in New York. They have now been refined into a very good, very comfortable chukka boot.
August Special’s biggest point of difference is comfort - slightly more anatomical last, mouldable uppers and internal padding. If you like the style of something of theirs, the rest (including quality and value) is a given. Not everything is for me, but I’m sorely tempted by these Voyager boots, which are slightly smarter than other things in the line. Also the Rambler hiking boots, which just went live yesterday.
Colbo x Sperry ‘Captains’ shoe
£267
Colbo is one of our favourite shops in New York. It does what any good multibrand store does - have a distinct personality and view on the world, such that you’re always interested in what they’ve decided to sell, whether it’s a new brand, a small vintage selection, or (most tellingly) the things they’ve bought from a brand you’ve also seen elsewhere.
Quite a few of the pieces aren’t my style personally, but I tried these Sperry collaboration shoes and they’re the first in this style of shoe I’ve ever been tempted by. Compared to something like the Paraboot ‘Michael’ they’re much subtler, with a less pronounced seam and lower profile. They’re also very comfortable - in a pliable, waxed Horween leather. They also did a boat shoe earlier in the year which is currently sold out.
Museum Garments ‘Sailor sweater’
€267
Museum Garments is a young French brand that was started in 2022, and does a good job at melding traditional menswear pieces with slightly modern cuts - at solid quality and good value for that quality. Which I guess, actually, is the perfect PS combination.
It was started by the French online shop Suuupply, and is sold by them, one or two other places in Europe, and Colbo in the US. This sweater is the nicest example I’ve seen of the high-necked maritime style, and the fit and quality and great. You have to like the high neck folded down as well, I find, but the brand also does some more everyday pieces.
Campbell’s of Beauly lambswool blanket
£135
The blankets at Campbell's are what you expect - traditional, British-made, solid quality rather than the most luxurious in the world, and great value. But what I'd say sets the Campbell's ones apart is the taste level. A lot of traditional shops like this in Scotland (and I've been to a fair few) have dozens of checked blankets, but rarely in appealing colours. They'll be too bright, clashing, or just the standard Royal Stewart and Black Watch tartans.
At Campbell's, I'd gladly take home the Strathglass (pictured), Kiltarlity, Strathcarron or Inchmore variations. And even the Stewart is a much more interesting variation, the colours softened and browned.
£130
My old woven-leather belt is probably the last one I have that isn’t one-inch wide, and I do much prefer that look. So I plan to replace it with one of these from Natalino - a decision solidified when I saw a reader wearing one into the London pop-up recently. How these things age makes such a difference.
It’s made in a nice, slightly waxy leather and is pleasingly different from those with thinner leather strips. Last time I was in the shop they had sold out of my size (90cm) but apparently more are coming next month.
Coherence ‘Jackson’ cord jacket
€850
I ordered one of these from Coherence when I saw them at Pitti back in January, and received it last month. It’s expensive, but I think the best of any luxury-type chore jacket I’ve tried. The Japanese corduroy is softer than you might expect - certainly compared to the Drake’s one I also have - but that goes with the more elevated colour and details.
Fortunately, Clutch have also decided to stock it this winter, so it’s available more broadly in the UK. They also have it in black, and matching trousers in both - though again like the Drake’s Games blazers, I don’t think I’d wear the two together. They're in the Clutch store now, and will apparently be online from this weekend. Beige in Paris also have the black version.
$178
Rather like chinos, cord trousers for casual wear aren’t always the best bought from classic menswear brands. They can be a little fine, a little shiny. Western or workwear brands often offer something different - coarser cottons with various washes, and construction details that make them more casual too.
These from Buck Mason are a good example. A great off-white colour that’s almost beige, they’re also a very wearable colour. Not everything from Buck is a quality we’d recommend alongside other things on PS, but the trousers and chinos are consistently good. This ‘full saddle’ stye has been refined recently and is now a great straight-but-not-wide cut.
The Anthology ‘caviar’ cord suit
£3200
Hmm, something of a cord theme developing here. I can honestly say I didn’t realise that until I started making the list. Anyway, I said on our last seasonal list that I would start including bespoke commissions in these pieces, and when The Anthology are here next I’m going to be fitting a bespoke version of this - a double-breasted suit in their particular shade of brown cord.
I wear my other brown cord, from Ciardi, a lot, particular for travel where it can be broken up into three different options. But if anything I might prefer this quality and shade from Buzz and the team. Let’s see. Other tailoring commissions include my MTM from Assisi (a glen plaid DB suit) which should arrive soon, and the Russell check that Tranquil House are making me to try and improve on Kim’s first effort.
Rubato waxed-cotton fireman's jacket
£1600
I've seen this new outerwear piece from Rubato, which was just released today. It's the same design as their previous fireman's jacket, but now in an interesting waxed cotton - it has a light wax and a slightly rubberised texture which is nice. The inside has also been improved, with a half lining which makes it easier to get on and off, and more internal pockets.
The colour is a deep navy (no pictures available yet other than from the above) that verges on black, although that will fade a little over time like other waxed cottons. The clips have also been improved. Overall it's a really interesting and tasteful, hip-length waterproof piece.





































Nice one, cheers!
The polo coat with the cream chords, is it the one from RL?
thanks
Hriday
No, that’s all from Buck Mason
Thank you 🙂
I don’t know them very well, and I’ve been in the market for a camelhair coat like the pre-order one that I missed out on from the shop!
any recommendations for alternatives? If I could trouble you!
How about the Anthology one I designed with them? Would that style work for you?
I have the dark brown polo coat from them, which is great (I love the weight of the fabric). But the pockets were something I just couldn’t get used to. I love the pocket style of the Donegal (I have the navy blue and the grey already)!
Anything you’d recommend in that style?
Ah I see. No in that case, sorry
I think Random Walk in Korea has what Hriday is looking for:
https://randomwalk.cafe24.com/shop2/product/kensington-short-joshua-ellis-camel-hair-camel/11524/category/164/display/1/
Thanks Matt. Looks a little short maybe, but otherwise good rec, thank you
Definitely cut a bit short. Perhaps for the Asian market.
Relatedly it would be great to have profiles on (a) Random Walk next time you’re in Seoul (their stuff always looks great), and (b) Chrysalis (which is a bit of a sleeper brand).
the chore jackets looks really nice!
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this. Some nice pieces. I’ve been a fan of some Coherence outerwear for a while now and have a few pieces mainly via Clutch Cafe. Agree a tad expensive but the attention to detail is (IMO) practically bespoke.
Thanks again
What size did you choose in the sailor sweater?
Large. The Medium was a little neat
Hi Simon,
Big fan of that chore jacket. I am surprised you could fit a shawl collar cardigan under it. Did you size up for that or it’s just fairly roomy?
It’s just fairly roomy. And it’s a bit of a squeeze. I’d more usually wear it with a regular knit
Thanks! Looks very interesting; I am actually looking for more workwear items as I will be a dad in the not-too-distant future. Would you say it is very delicate or could take a bit of a beating?
I wouldn’t say it’s delicate, but certainly not as tough as the Drakes one or real workwear pieces. Hard to know yet how exactly it will age
Hi Simon, what size did you take for that chore jacket?
Medium. They’re quite roomy
Buck Mason is garnering a lot of attention. Apart from trousers, what else in their offer stands out as decent quality?
So, in general I’d say the design of their pieces is always very good, and they’re expanding a little now away from just beige, black and olive into some interesting patterns and colours. The issue is often little points of quality or consistency between pieces and things losing shape. That all comes with the big caveat, however, that the price is very low and you’re always going to be sacrificing something. It’s not really fair to compare them to other brands we cover – they should be compared more to brands at the same price point.
Apart from the trousers I’d recommend the shirts, if you like the designs (some have small collars, some longer eg). And some of the new tailoring is actually very good for the price – certainly better than someone like J Crew for instance, where the taste level is very different. The women’s is also good for this price range, and perhaps in some ways filling a bigger hole than there is for menswear.
Were you able to try, say, the polo coat in that image? Curious how their outerwear compares; they’re not THAT much cheaper than PS, to use one example
We did try it, and the style is great, but it doesn’t really compare make wise with the more expensive ones we would cover
Hi Simon,
Great list as always! What size did you chose in the “Captain shoes”?
9.5 US
Thank you Simon.
Hi Simon,
Very interesting picks, coincidentally I have also found myself wearing much more corduroy.
I am interested in your opinion on the shoes you mentioned. The captains shoe seems beautiful and your mention of the Rambler hiking boot also piqued my interest. It is not a type of boot I have seen you cover before, are there any others you would recommend of that sort? Winter boots in general would be a great topic for a future article!
Best,
Rune
Yes, good idea Rune.
Do you mean others of that sort in terms of hiking boots and that derby style, or winter boots in general?
Now that’s a good question, personally I would love to get more information and recommendations on hiking boots.
I guess if you want to explore all kinds of winter footwear its either going to get very long or less detailed. Winter boots for more “extreme” weather conditions would be more interesting i think.
OK, gotcha
Speaking for myself, I’d love to read a post on winter boots: different styles, recommendations, etc.
Thanks SC, good to know
Just throwing a third request in for this!
Will a tail tuck work on the natalino belt? Looks beautiful.
It’s fairly thick, but if you don’t mind that then it could, yes
Thanks Simon, very interesting. Intrigued as to whether you would consider a piece on Grand Le Mar. I really admire their aesthetic although appreciate that, at this price point, the quality level is likely to be significantly different to many of the makers you usually cover. Thanks, Paul
Yes it probably would be, but still, good to have them on the radar
What size do you normally take in UK and European sizing?
For shoes? 8.5 or 9, 43
The August Special shoes look good but as they’d have to be mail-ordered could you give an indication as to how well they run to size please.
I find I vary a little between the models, eg in the hiker I wanted 9.5US, but 9 in the chukka. I think that was mostly because I wanted more space in the hiker as well. But it is pretty true to size – I’m always a 9 or 9.5 in US sizes
I really like the look of the new August Special boots. Do they fit similar to the more rugged chukka they do? What colour would you consider in those? I like the look of the black suede.
Yes I would say the fit is similar. I also love the black suede and would probably go for that – I would wear brown suede more, but I already have brown suede chukkas
Yes that’s what i’m torn between – what i like the look of more or what i would wear more and i also own many brown suede but very little black suede!
I really like the look of the buck mason cords in midnight. Did you try them at all? I would like to know if they are black or a very dark navy. Also, they don’t give you the thigh or hip measurements on their website so very difficult to tell what i’d be. What size did you take out of interest?
Many thanks,
Chris
Yes I was thinking the same thing about those in midnight. I’d wear them more in black than navy I think.
The cords came up a little big, and they’re a higher waist than I usually have so the waist is smaller – I took a 31
I beleave that the fireman’s jacket is on Rubato website now. https://www.atemporubato.com/products/firemans-jacket-in-navy
It is, thank you, I’ll add in the link and price
It is interesting to note that your wax walker comes with a removable liner and costs 500 euros less than the Rubato fireman’s jacket.
Simon, if you owned the August Special Voyager boot in black, what kinds of outfits would you wear it with, and for what occasions? I own the original August Special chukka (the Aviator Boot) in Marraca and find it fairly comfortable for walking (I hope it will get more comfortable as I break it in further). I also have the Alden Tanker Boot in Color 8 Shell Cordovan, which is good for colder weather, and I think I can wear it with black jeans and with mid-grey Fox flannels. But I don’t have a black shoe or boot that I can walk longish distances in in all seasons. Is there anything you can think of that would fit that bill better than the Voyager boot in black?
I don’t think so Lawrence, no. I think the only limitation is whether you would wear one in leather more – I would, marginally, and wear my EG Shanklins like that, but they’re also not as comfortable as the AS ones
Hi Simon, maybe I’m just starting to notice them more, but it seems like a lot of brands are coming out with a version of a hunting jacket which can be worn over tailored jackets. Might be interesting to see an article about them. Luxury versions from Saman Amel, Stoffa; city/country blending versions like The Anthology and Rubato; full country versions from Merchant Fox and Campbells of Beauly.
Thanks, yes it’s true. And of course the Wax Walker we’ve done for ages and the Wool Walker of ours.
A piece would be nice – it would of course not include ours as per normal with these things
Curious on why you would choose not to include a PS product in such a piece?
It’s usually our policy as it feels there is then less of a clear conflict of interest – I obviously like ours the best as I designed it, so comparing to others is a little unfair
Hi Simon. As you work closely with them, have you had a chance to check Anthology’s new faded jeans? I know you are still on your vintage pair and I am equally struggling to find some nicer fades – Drake’s jeans leaving the fades aside are also touch too short length for me. The new ones from Anthology look like a good alternative (dimensions not too dissimilar to Brycelands denim).
Hey Kuba,
No I haven’t I’m afraid. My first instinct was that the cut looked good but I wasn’t sure about the fades. Be good to see them in person
Indeed. I will be attending their Trunk Show in London so hoping they will have a pair of those at that time.
What about their chinos? I remember reading in your “If you only had” series that you disliked pairing them with tailored jackets because of the risk of looking old fashioned. But do you think the fabric they used makes a difference? They way they styled them with the jackets looked pretty cool to me.
I can’t tell online I’m afraid Yk, I’ll have to wait and see them in person. Finer cottons sometimes look great in static shots but not so good in wear
Hey Simon, just wanted to check if you had a chance to see their chinos in person yet? Thanks!
Hey Yk,
Actually yes, just this morning!
They’re nice, a straight cut and a rise that’s between medium and high. The material has a slightly peached finish and that combined with the detailing makes them a little dressier as a chino I think. A good one with tailoring probably, less of a workwear or casual piece. A size 50 fit me pretty well.
Just jumping into this conversation to ask if you’d seen and tried The Anthology’s new jeans, Simon? I was at the trunk show yesterday, commissioning a suit, and tried them. I’m probably more inclined towards the dark indigo as far as colour goes, but I was really struck by the cut, which is truly straight. Took me a moment to get my eye in when I initially put them on but I thought it was really flattering; classic but quite different to a lot of what’s out there currently, if that’s not too much of an oxymoron. Tried a couple of different sports jackets on at the same time and thought they worked very harmoniously with that look.
Hey Joe,
I have, and the cut probably wasn’t for me. It is truly straight, you’re right, and perhaps that’s less the style for me. I’m not sure the wash is that much for me either – it has a sort of acid-wash look, quite 90s, with quite extreme fades on the seams etc. My understanding is this is what they were going for, but it makes it more niche than their offerings generally I’d say. The leg line is probably a more personal thing.
Simon, I own a pair of dark khaki Rubato chinos, but I’m also interested in getting a beige pair from Anthology. When you tried them on, did you think they would work for different occasions?
Yes I think so. Slightly different colours and slightly different styles
Rubato seem to be expanding their range quite aggressively, now even offering proper tailored jackets. I don’t think many readers would deny that they produce impeccable products each season, but at the same time, the way their prices have been climbing is pretty jaw dropping. Since you’ve probably had a fair bit of influence on their popularity, I’d be curious to hear your thoughts on this, Simon.
Price is such an emotive issue isn’t it? And particularly changes in price. I think if Rubato had always been this price level it would be less of an issue, because the product and the way the brand is put together feels so high-end.
Personally I would still buy from them because I so much identify with their style, their taste, and everything that goes into the brand – the garment bags on the new coats, for example, are really nice, a biodegradable paper blend. But that won’t be the case for everyone.
I also buy less. I might get one sweater rather than two, and I would probably be less likely to take a punt on something. In the end I can afford the products, and I have good clothes already so it has to be something special. They’d be less of a standard, or less of something that filled my whole closet.
I don’t think anyone is being ripped off by the prices – there is real value there. I absolutely adore the cloth choices they’ve gone for with the tailoring, and the shoe materials too; pigskin is such a good idea. The outerwear is more innovative than anything outside designer brands. But I would buy it differently.
Sorry, slight rambling thoughts but I hope that’s helpful.
What’s your favourite piece from their tailoring and shoes collection? Are the shoes something you would wear?
I’m really interested in seeing the beige micro-herringbone, it looks like it has a lovely vintage feel to it. I think it’s telling that they’re not using cloths that look like ones you get in the normal bunches – they’re seeking out their own particular preferences and taste, rather than just what’s easiest.
I’m interested in seeing the black pigskin. I like the idea of the texture and softness in that, and the last shape looks great – it’s rare that I like a derby as a smarter shoe but that one looks perfect. Only unsure about the thicker sole.
I agree with you. Their jacket cut seems to be a Northern Italian, am I correct?
It certainly has those influences, yes. Though again unlike other brands, it’s very much their particular cut, something they’ve been developing for years and trying to get right. Which also affects price
I’m torn between the black pigskin and the brown suede. I’d appreciate your thoughts Simon on versatility for each pair. I wear mostly jeans and cords but I’m also wearing Rubatos hbt in white and Green quite a bit at the moment. Which would pair best with those? I’m guessing the brown suede. How would you choose to pair the black pigskin?
Yes I’d say brown suede. The black pigskin would be better with things like dark browns, greys, black or dark indigo jeans
A few days ago, I received the Rubato Derby shoes, and just as you said, Simon, the last and the leather are both really beautiful — but the thick sole does bother me a bit. I’ve worn Dainite soles before, but this one feels much chunkier than Dainite. Do you think they’d look better with trousers that have a fairly wide leg opening? I didn’t realise their style and aesthetic leaned this much toward a chunky look.
I think they probably would, yes. I assume it’s because your other shoes didn’t have that style of welt
These guys are clearly plugged into culture. The cloth choices are incredibly tasteful. I had joked a Russell check wave was coming a few months ago but didn’t know it would really happen. And I had Andrea at T&G Caraceni pull a strikingly similar vintage midnight twill just 2 weeks ago for a navy double breasted jacket with horn buttons. And tis summer I had Edward Green make up suede Dovers on the 303 with a Ridgeway sole for fall – and it appears that’s quite similar to what they’ve done for their derby.
In each of these cases, I’ve gone far out of my way and spent serious time and money to get something extremely specific done to my standard of quality and taste. It’s pretty crazy to see these all offered RTW with immediate shipping, and apparently done quite well with good value. It was smart for them to make the shoes in Northampton; Made in Italy has waned as a quality signal in footwear for a broader set of consumers.
The reason people get emotional about steep price increases is because it feels like a ruthless attempt to maximize margins and charge the most they can get. It also feels like we’re in a moment where the best stuff is newly out of reach for many and inequality is heightened globally. The costs of cloth and labor have increased over the last years, but nowhere near this fast, and there’s no question to anyone Rubato is driving their margins intentionally, and using price to anchor a brand in a world where the most relevant brands and only people succeeding in fashion are preciously expensive (The Row, Prada, Miu Miu, Hermes, Chanel, and LP). That’s capitalism. But in an area like classic menswear, imbued with a Romantic and almost sometimes devotional aura (see: Nicoletta Caraceni’s Instagram account), it’s not fun for some people to think about.
Clothes are and always have been about more than just dollars and value, which is why we love it, and why this site works.
Rubato seem to want to become a luxury brand, in my opinion. Their prices for new products are quite daring, and I’ve just noticed that they’ve recently increased the prices of all their classic items as well. The thing is, they’re an online store, which means they shouldn’t have many other costs to handle, yet they’re pricing their products higher than brands offering similar quality with physical stores and staff in central London — so it’s clear they’re shifting towards a more margin-focused business model. It’s honestly disappointing as an existing customer.
In their defense, it’s one of the only credible paths to scaling a consumer brand like that with a financial outcome that makes it worthwhile and exciting for the founders and (if any) their investors. And it’s harder to scale in 2025 than it was when those incumbents did — money is more expensive and it’s extremely crowded.
One can’t moralistically expect a devotional life of churning out products for enthusiasts. It’s similar to Saman Amel, and I don’t fault them for it personally. I’d want a stake bought by LVMH, too — and to command the prices to make products I was actually excited about, even if the customer ends up becoming a kinda lame luxury consumer instead of a tasteful enthusiast like, presumably, you.
The other path being the Buck Mason one, or J Press, whose parent company just said they want to scale to $100M annual revenue in several years. In either case, it’s transmuting the taste of real enthusiasts to commercial opportunity at scale that makes it work. So goes life and the business of brands.
Rubato will likely find some dilutive middle ground between art and commerce. Another $350 chino will come along that will make you happy.
Interesting perspective David, thank you
Curious if pigskin performs better than calf in rain?
Than a non-grain calf, yes it does
I really like those Buck Mason cords, though wonder if they are a little too western inspired for me personally. Interested in your thoughts on if these from Rota might be able to serve the purpose of a versatile cord trouser? https://rota-pantaloni.com/products/ice-corduroy-sport-trousers
I don’t think they feel western at all to be honest – wearing them today and I don’t think anyone would make that connection out of context.
I don’t like cords with stretch in them myself, so I wouldn’t go with the Rota, but they’d also be much smarter
Following up from that is there anything you’d suggest as an alternative to the buck mason trousers in the UK, without having to ship from the US?
Not that I know of in this kind of style, no, though it’s also not a category I’ve looked into a lot
Hi Simon – following up on this again. I was able to try on the book Mason chords and you are quite right. A really nice straight cut though definitely a bit on the relaxed side. Would you opt for a turn back cuff for these? adding a pic as I noticed there were a few additional comments on these, so hope helpful for others, too
Nice. No I wouldn’t have a turnback on those myself, Zach. I think that would make the bottoms too chunky
I’ve taken to Buckmason’s graduate suiting (one in Fox Air and another in Angelino fresco), offering great value, full canvassing and neat fit philosophy for the price. Even had turn ups added and working buttons at the cuffs (free of charge courtesy of their in house guy in NY).
What pieces don’t you recommend personally? I find most of their offerings are pretty high quality across the board.
Sounds great.
I found issues with some of the cotton tops losing shape, such as the T-shirts and cotton knits. Style-wise some shirts, eg the chambrays, have that more mainstream small collar. You also notice the lower priced materials on some pieces more than others, eg on the cashmere knitwear.
The free hemming is great – I did on that on the cords as well.
Thank you Simon. Corduroy seems to be in this season. It’s everywhere, and I’m pleased for it!
Hi Simon, lots of great recs here, thank you.
I’ve been looking at the Anthology caviar corduroy for some time but one question… is it greeny-brown, or is it browny-green? I’ve not seen it in person but in pics it sort of seems like it might somehow be… both? In any case, it looks extremely nice and surprisingly versatile.
I’d actually say it doesn’t read as that green at all. More just a cold dark brown
Hi Simon, will you be reviewing the double-breasted “caviar” suit from The Anthology once it’s finished? And if yes, around what time can we expect the review? I really like The Anthology for single-breasted jackets and I am strongly considering finally going for a DB next time, so a review would be highly appreciated. I also suspect that a lot of other readers might feel the same, given how distinctive the The Anthology DB style is and how accessible they still are (at least in relative terms).
Yes Liam, I will. Planning on shooting it at Pitti in a couple of weeks, so I’d guess a couple of weeks after that?
Amazing, thanks!
just got my email re your new button down Japanese denim shirts and I note they are the same measurements as your wonderful chambray. Which by the way, absolutely does get better with every wash/wear. According to your size chart the size L has a rather large 120 cm chest. A whopping 10cm more than the size M. Is this correct? That seems remarkably generous. I just measured my chambray, size L, and the chest is 114cm. I want to purchase Simon but expect these to sell out and would rather get right first time. Many thanks.
Hi Richard,
They should both have the same chest measurement – the size charts on the site are the same. I’m not sure why your chambray is measuring 114cm – maybe it has shrunk a little in a hot wash, or it could be stretched out a little to meet that measure.
Simon, would the Coherence Chore Jacket in black cord be easy to pull off in that style?
Sorry, in what style Keith, the one I’m wearing? Yes it could definitely be worn like that, and the softness of the cord would make it easier than some black jackets. Still, black will be more limiting than most browns for example
The colour of the jacket you’re wearing didn’t even make it onto the Clutch Cafe website — they said it sold out too quickly! So I’m thinking about getting the black one instead. If you happened to buy the black version, what colours would you usually pair it with for the inner layer and trousers? It’s not exactly cheap, so I want to choose carefully based on how useful it would be
Blimey.
Well the black wouldn’t be super versatile for me, but I don’t wear much black outerwear and only occasionally wear black tailored jackets. If you don’t either, I’d suggest it wouldn’t be that versatile, more an exceptional piece.
But in terms of colours it’d go with, I’d look at the articles on black jackets I’ve done. It’s all neutrals, olives, pale pink and purple
I’m confused by the last picture, I assume it’s a scarf but the text and price etc are missing.
It’s one of the scarves mentioned in the Campbell’s listing further up Jon
Hi Simon – great article. I got the Buck Mason cords around the same time as the article came out. I got them for my chunkier knitwear from GRP but was wondering how you wear them? What kind of combinations were you thinking of when you got them. Thanks!
I’ve worn them a few times now, and tend to like them with knits – often slightly thicker, often slightly roomier – and then with boots or trainers. Coat or chore over the top. I wouldn’t wear them with most of the shirts I have, they’re too casual for that
Is the Russell check jacket a trend in menswear? I’ve seen it quite often online recently
Not sure I’d call it a trend really, at least from my point of view I just know friends that have been interested in it because others are – Fred Nieddu has always liked them, Oliver from Rubato decided to them in their line, from their influence I’m having one made, and so on.
It would make an interesting article though perhaps
It’s what you might call a microtrend, the duration and influence of which cannot yet be predicted.
Ideas that feel fresh, authentic, and not too menswear or too commercial are rare. And the trend cycle moves quickly – even in menswear, to the consternation of many. Brown glen checks feel a bit diluted in that way now to my eye. So do solids in the tonal colors of Saman Amel, replicated mercilessly by SuitSupply and chipped away at by the high street wide trouser TikTok trend.
I know Simon disagrees, but I really believe the Russell check is a special remaining piece of design real estate that feels unexpected and fresh, but still with real cultural heritage (both English and Milan industrialist). That makes it prime for tasteful brands to capitalize on that.
Simon’s point about it filtering through the messy nondirectional influence of tasteful people in culture and community is also of course correct — Andrew Borda, Taillour, and Simon soon enough — but I think both dynamics are true.
Yes, I agree David
Hi Simon,
What size did you get for the Coherence Jackson? It looks like a tailored fit on you.
Also, do you think the Jackson is usable as Midlayer (under an overcoat) piece as well? It would be useful to know how versatile it is with that price.
Regards,
Brian
I took a Medium, Brian.
No I wouldn’t see it as a mid-layer, I wouldn’t wear it underneath an overcoat
Do you have an idea of roughly how heavy the fabric is in comparison to Drake’s games blazer?
I’d say it’s a little lighter, but similar in terms of thickness which is why I wouldn’t see it as a mid-layer
Would you have sized down to a Small if you planned on mainly wearing it with t-shirts and thin knitwear? Or would you still say the Medium was the right size?
I’d say Medium was right
Hi Simon,
Have you tried the Rubato fireman jacket? Would you opt for the usual Medium or size down?
Thanks!
Charles
I have, and I’d go for medium. It’s pretty roomy
Nice to hear, thank you Simon. And do you think about its versatility?
It’s an unusual design, but dark enough to go with most tailoring – if you’re happy with the style, then as much so as a navy overcoat.
Casually I’d wear it with dark jeans and a canvas shoe, or perhaps blue jeans and a smartish boot or loafer. That kind of level of casual.
Thanks!
It’s interesting to see how the fireman jacket fits into classic menswear. What allows it to pair well with tailoring? Is it something you’d add to your own wardrobe?
It is, yes. I’d see it as a classic-menswear adjacent piece that can be worn with tailoring in classic colours – in the same way you might a duffle coat for instance
Hello Simon,
Semi-related as it is a new Autumn/Winter item. I went in-store and saw that Brycelands released a new jacket in a red and caramel colour.
It was super cropped and not something I wouldn’t normally go for, but the red was really nice and I gave it a purchase. Curious if you had seen the jacket, and if so your impressions!
https://www.brycelandsco.com/products/ffa-jacket-burgundy?srsltid=AfmBOoqZnelT1H7RjQGpUG2reF-GUL-gvrcdh5GoXHaSZCQbP2MRv5xQ
https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/new-arrival-items/products/ffa-jacket-caramel?srsltid=AfmBOorPGy-_6d9yzJFbUNN8U_KRWb438DcjTIl-wMFWE1gOdM6-wK-c
Hey Daniel,
Yes I have. The make was really nice, and I loved that colour. It was too short and square a style for me personally though. Some of that is body proportions of course
Heimat journey coat seemed like interesting affordable alternative to coherence chore.. but sadly sold out in my size. Any other ideas for interesting but affordable corduroy chore?
Hello Simon, I noticed on your Instagram that the Rubato team will be visiting your showroom this week. I was hoping to take a look at the new collection, but it seems that most of the pieces — particularly the outerwear — are sold out in almost every size. Do you happen to know whether they’ll be bringing any extra stock with them?
Hey Louis,
I checked with them, and they’ve brought what’s in stock so no extra I’m afraid. Hunting jacket is coming in full size range but not fireman’s as pretty much sold out
That’s a shame… most of the nice ones in my size were out of stock.
Simon, are you planning to get their tailored jacket? The fit looked spot on on you
It was a very a good fit, but I am so used to everything being a bespoke structure. It may be the cloths that get me
Tried to buy the Jackson through Clutch but stopped when they charged 30% on top of the price of the garment and called it “duties.” Does anyone understand why Clutch is charging 30% on items they ship to the US when import duties on items coming into the US from the UK are only 10%?
Duties are not 10% on items coming to the US from the UK Chris, they’re higher. 10% is what they were increased by back in April. Duties today range from 15% to 30% depending on the category of the item, and can be ever more if the piece is considered to be in origin from another country (not sure about Japan but India and China for example are higher)
We wrote about it in some detail here
Hi Simon,
Which do you prefer between the Coherence corduroy jacket and Drake’s corduroy games blazer? I think I prefer the Coherence and an kicking myself a bit having recently bought the games blazer. I’m not sure both are necessary so have been considering selling it. I will say it is useful as something a tad smarter that can be worn as a suit with the matching trousers
I do prefer the Coherence I think, unfortunately yes. But they are different styles, not a straight upgrade
Nice pieces, Simon. Thanks for sharing. I often see you refer to the quality of things that PS recommends (e.g, your response below about the quality of the BM polo coat compared to others that you’d normally recommend).
Obviously there are a few different components to quality. I feel I have a good sense of fabrics and telling high quality fabrics from lower quality, especially for the specific contexts and use cases. However, I have a harder time telling the quality of a garment, shoe, or accessories from a construction or make standpoint unless it’s painfully obvious something has been flimsily made. There seems to be (as price often suggests) a big difference between good – or at least decent – quality items and top tier quality beyond things like the quality of materials used (fabrics, zippers, etc.).
Are you able to cover this for readers or share any articles that might have addressed this directly? As you can probably infer, my goal is to be able to tell when I’m getting good value (at different ends of the price spectrum) rather than relying on price as the only indicator of quality, which is sadly not the case as I’ve had some awful experiences with pricy items.
Thank you so much!
It’s a hard one Toby, as it’s a big area with the points often varying between categories of clothes.
However there is a small section on PS with articles on some aspects this – see here
I also feel this article on high-street brand Massimo Dutti would be helpful
Often the topic is best tackled in individual articles about different categories though
Completely understand, Simon. I expected as much. Thank you for sharing those resources!
Hi Simon!
Happy New Year and thank you for the round up! Always appreciate all the info you put out there.
A bit of a futile question, since these things are always hard to match, but wondering if you have a good book recommendation similar in color and texture to the caviar color corduroy? The Anthology is both too far and too expensive for me though hopefully I shall be able to support them someday, amazing work they do.
Thank you!
I don’t I’m afraid, sorry, but good to go into looking at books knowing you want that kind of shade
Hello Simon. I was able to purchase the Coherence fawn cord jacket. Very excited to wear it once spring comes.
Curious to what else you wore with this jacket and how your feelings are on it now that more time has passed.
My feelings haven’t really changed Daniel, I still love it and think it might be the best of that style of cord jacket I’ve ever tried. The colour is great with blacks, browns, dark jeans. Not quite so good with greys and mid-blue jeans