Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

June 7th 2023

  Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...

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Thank you Laurent, that's very useful (for me and for everyone else!) Cheers...

Bags - Belts and walletsJune 7th 2023

A shopping guide to ready-made trousers

October 26th 2022

By Manish Puri If my years of reading Permanent Style have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look better than a tailored jacket. If my years of having eyes have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look w...

A shopping guide to ready-made trousers

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I can also recommend Besnard (Netherlands). Same quality as Rota, in my opinion, but somewhat cheaper (EUR 350 for Irish Linen). They also do MTM https://besnard.co/...

TrousersOctober 26th 2022

Trousers and what they go with: A sliding scale o...

September 26th 2022

When we published our second capsule guide to trousers recently, there was a discussion in the comments as to their smartness - and a request for an article setting it out. Now, trousers vary in more than just their material, so this will always be...

Trousers and what they go with: A sliding scale o...

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To an extent, yes. There are much smarter and more casual versions of linen - I think you have to use your eye as to how smart they look...

TrousersSeptember 26th 2022

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

July 6th 2022

I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the int...

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

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I do really like mine, yes. I went for the same size and it was good, but they are quite relaxed. I'm happy with this size and would suggest it meets the style they're going for. Also the tees with ribbing at the bottom ...

Casual clothing - ShoesJuly 6th 2022

If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers

July 4th 2022

  I began the companion piece to this one – looking at smart trousers – by saying that it was the hardest chapter to write in our Wardrobe Building series . I was right. I thought this one would be harder, but it’s...

If you only had five pairs of (casual) trousers

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Not always wide fits, as I said, just often...

TrousersJuly 4th 2022

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

June 22nd 2022

This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...

Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...

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Oh good, nice to hear Jack...

Jackets - TrousersJune 22nd 2022

Brut Archives, Paris: Evolving vintage

May 30th 2022

Brut is an interesting French brand, and store. Since it was founded by Paul Ben Chemhoun (below) in 2012, it has evolved from a vintage shop, into a home for rescued and reworked clothing, and now its own brand. When I visited earlier this year wi...

Brut Archives, Paris: Evolving vintage

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I don't think that many people have a local army dumpstore, and it certainly doesn't have an online presence. It takes a good amount of time and money to be able to provide that kind of access to those products. Plus, in...

Casual clothing - TrousersMay 30th 2022

Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...

May 13th 2022

This is the new colour of the PS Linen Overshirt - a pale olive green. I love it, but it is a touch unusual so I thought it was worth shooting with different colours, just to illustrate how I think it can work particularly nicely. The overshirt is ...

Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...

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It will fade it more over time if you iron it, though steaming shouldn't do...

Shirts - TrousersMay 13th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

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Thank you for pointing out carrier company. The jacket was not for me but I came across the fisherman’s jumper. A robust navy roll neck with raglan sleeves - I has been looking for one like this with raglan sleeves for...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos

April 15th 2022

These chinos are the Rubato ones I’ve asked them to reissue, which will be available exclusively in the PS pop-up shop on Savile Row next week. They’re not exactly the same as the originals, which were a single pleat where this is a fla...

Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos

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I generally prefer without, but they can look good with them too. I think it's a question of style - no cuffs will feel a little bit smarter perhaps, but also depends on the shoes, eg if you wear them with a chunky train...

Knitwear - TrousersApril 15th 2022

If you only had five (smart) trousers

March 28th 2022

  Of all the articles I’ve written in our Wardrobe Building series, this might be the hardest. Even if we’re just looking at smart trousers, the pairs that suit somebody will vary hugely with lifestyle and with taste. A pair of w...

If you only had five (smart) trousers

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Not particularly, no, and frankly a lot of them just use VBC flannel anyway. I guess I would feel them and go for the one that feels the densest in the weave, and perhaps woven in England if it says, as that might indica...

TrousersMarch 28th 2022

Anatomica, Paris: The clothes and the history

March 23rd 2022

Anatomica is one of my favourite shops in Paris. It’s unique, with a range of menswear that’s often exclusive to them - whether under their brand or others’ - and always centred around quality. In fact it has such a reputation - of...

Anatomica, Paris: The clothes and the history

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I have seen it now and it is really nice. Wonderful green, it is loopwheeled, nice rather light weight. Would say a vintage fit. Sadly sleeves were to short....

Casual clothing - Hanks and scarvesMarch 23rd 2022

Shopping in person at Marrkt, York

March 11th 2022

I was in York last week. It’s where my wife grew up, and I’ve been dozens of times over the years, though not for the past three or four. The centre has a lot more closed shops since Covid; it’s quite sad. But I did notice one big ...

Shopping in person at Marrkt, York

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Ok thanks. Maybe I am also too focused on the leg opening. I compared the chinos side by side to my rubato jeans in size 32, which have an opening of roughly 21 cm and those jeans would not look particularly wide on most...

Casual clothing - ShirtsMarch 11th 2022

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

January 31st 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

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It is. It's a still from "Jazz on a Summer's Day," a great documentary by Bert Stern about the 1958 Newport Jazz Festival. A wonderfully stylish film with beautiful cinematography (and of course terrific music). Well wor...

Coats - JacketsJanuary 31st 2022

Perro: The collection tried and reviewed

January 10th 2022

I don’t think Per and Rock (below) will mind me saying that when I first saw the products and looks coming from their new brand, Perro , they didn’t have a big impact on me. The two of them - previously at menswear shops Linnegatan 2 an...

Perro: The collection tried and reviewed

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Nice idea, if they or anyone else is up for that kind of very transparent conversation, I'll certainly do something on it. As much as anything, I find human factors are as much a cause as anything. As in, someone's perso...

Casual clothing - KnitwearJanuary 10th 2022

Clutch chinos review: Soundman, Pherrows, Warehou...

November 29th 2021

  This is the latest in a series of articles we are doing on well-made chinos. You can see the previous articles on a contents page here , and listed on the right of this article (on a desktop). Rather than look at one pair that I own, to...

Clutch chinos review: Soundman, Pherrows, Warehou...

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I found them true to size, yes, but I don't own them so can't talk to shrinkage I'm afraid. Worth asking the guys in the shop on that...

Casual clothing - TrousersNovember 29th 2021

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

October 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

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I'm not sure, perhaps a dark green or a dark brown? A grey might be nice though a little formal...

Jackets - TrousersOctober 13th 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

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No, they're a 2-ply which is standard yarn for this kind of polo knit. You could wear over a shirt or instead of one. However, they are different to a Smedley or a PS polo, which use much finer merino yarn. This is expla...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

September 29th 2021

  Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even lu...

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

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Hey John - some of it is up to you, being bespoke, but I suggest you talk to Whitcomb for the details...

Casual clothing - TrousersSeptember 29th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

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Good point, and no, not particularly I'm afraid. I find a similar issue, and often narrow the body but have the same issue with the collar....

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

July 19th 2021

This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes. First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here. And second, it reviews Blackhorse Lane's made-to-mea...

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

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Yes, though you can see that from the measurements too...

TrousersJuly 19th 2021

The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

June 16th 2021

If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual ( from Casatlantic ) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair. Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubato - just more on the workw...

The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

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All of those could work, yes David. The key is having them in more casual styles - an Alden boot, not an Edward Green (in general). So a rounder last, bigger welt, thicker leather usually, often some contrast stitching e...

Casual clothing - TrousersJune 16th 2021

PS (shorter) shorts are back

June 9th 2021

The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...

PS (shorter) shorts are back

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Hey, I do wear them and I'm still a 43, though you're right, the sizing is a bit unpredictable. I think QC like that is one of the things that people often don't appreciate from getting from a tiny operation rather than ...

Casual clothing - TrousersJune 9th 2021

Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review

May 24th 2021

These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t your everyday, classic chinos. They&rs...

Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review

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I'm not a big fan of the double pleats, and the real high-rise is not what I'd have in an everyday trouser, as mentioned. They're also quite a simple make, as is reflected in the price. But other than that, they're great...

TrousersMay 24th 2021

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

May 14th 2021

I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

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True, the materials are more similar as coarser, thicker cottons...

Knitwear - TrousersMay 14th 2021