Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

October 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article , I mad...

Jackets - TrousersOctober 13th 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too.  I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

September 29th 2021

  Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even lu...

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

    Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this?  I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good...

Casual clothing - TrousersSeptember 29th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise?  This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in va...

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

July 19th 2021

This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes. First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here. And second, it reviews Blackhorse Lane's made-to-mea...

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes.  First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here.  And second, it revie...

TrousersJuly 19th 2021

The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

June 16th 2021

If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual ( from Casatlantic ) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair. Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubato - just more on the workw...

The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review

If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual ( from Casatlantic ) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair.  Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubat...

Casual clothing - TrousersJune 16th 2021

PS (shorter) shorts are back

June 9th 2021

The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...

PS (shorter) shorts are back

The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock.  There is only one major change, which is tha...

Casual clothing - TrousersJune 9th 2021

Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review

May 24th 2021

These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t your everyday, classic chinos. They&rs...

Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review

These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style.  But they aren’t your everyday, ...

TrousersMay 24th 2021

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

May 14th 2021

I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. The change was mostly in the thigh, which went from 33.5cm...

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals.  I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. The change was mostly in the th...

Knitwear - TrousersMay 14th 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, part...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

March 8th 2021

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivere...

TrousersMarch 8th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class.  John cham...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

January 4th 2021

Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aware of when this undermining s...

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aw...

TrousersJanuary 4th 2021

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

December 30th 2020

  We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

  We all know different materials age in different ways.  Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where ...

TrousersDecember 30th 2020

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

December 23rd 2020

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass.  Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 23rd 2020

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

December 11th 2020

The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, be...

TrousersDecember 11th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand.  In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he con...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

October 21st 2020

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk ...

Alterations and care - TrousersOctober 21st 2020

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

August 3rd 2020

Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not an easy thing to describe. Par...

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is.  However, trouser rise is not...

TrousersAugust 3rd 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for ...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

January 20th 2020

  This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including...

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

  This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style detail...

TrousersJanuary 20th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them.  Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

Wearing navy trousers as separates

December 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons.  First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re lik...

Style - TrousersDecember 20th 2019

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

November 18th 2019

Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

  Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the ...

TrousersNovember 18th 2019

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

November 4th 2019

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own.  They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake...

TrousersNovember 4th 2019