Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

June 21st 2017

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out int...

Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery

Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out int...

Jackets - TailoringJune 21st 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. Th...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. Th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

The guide to summer trouser cloths

May 10th 2017

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end o...

The guide to summer trouser cloths

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end o...

TrousersMay 10th 2017

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

April 28th 2017

Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suf...

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suf...

Tailoring - TrousersApril 28th 2017

Style Guide – the partners shoot

April 24th 2017

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so...

Style Guide – the partners shoot

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so...

Accessories - Casual wearApril 24th 2017

Cavalry twill for trousers

March 22nd 2017

Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many c...

Cavalry twill for trousers

Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many c...

Tailoring - TrousersMarch 22nd 2017

The Armoury: Do you know about the trousers?

March 1st 2017

For many reasons - personal, business, product, sheer beauty of execution - I’ve long been a fan of The Armoury. They were therefore one brand I was particularly excited to get into our Savile Row pop-up shop. How...

The Armoury: Do you know about the trousers?

For many reasons - personal, business, product, sheer beauty of execution - I’ve long been a fan of The Armoury. They were therefore one brand I was particularly excited to get into our Savile Row pop-up shop. How...

Accessories - BagsMarch 1st 2017

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

December 21st 2016

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for ...

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for ...

Tailoring - TrousersDecember 21st 2016

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

December 18th 2016

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 18th 2016

The Permanent Style trunk show

October 14th 2016

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

The Permanent Style trunk show

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

Bags - GlovesOctober 14th 2016

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

September 21st 2016

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Tailoring - TrousersSeptember 21st 2016

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

September 7th 2016

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as I wa...

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as I wa...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 7th 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 2016

Why I don’t wear braces

August 24th 2016

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Why I don’t wear braces

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Style - TailoringAugust 24th 2016

Richard James bespoke tailoring

August 12th 2016

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Richard James bespoke tailoring

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Jackets - TailoringAugust 12th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader q...

May 19th 2016

Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket pos...

Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader q...

Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket pos...

Jackets - StyleMay 19th 2016

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

February 29th 2016

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been g...

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been g...

Oxford - ShoesFebruary 29th 2016

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

December 28th 2015

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Oxford - ShoesDecember 28th 2015

Stile Latino – from Vincenzo Attolini

September 2nd 2015

I interviewed Vincenzo Attolini (above) back in January. This post is therefore a little late, although the advantage is the clothes will be dropping into shops now, unlike other pieces from trade shows where you have...

Stile Latino – from Vincenzo Attolini

I interviewed Vincenzo Attolini (above) back in January. This post is therefore a little late, although the advantage is the clothes will be dropping into shops now, unlike other pieces from trade shows where you have...

Overcoats - TailoringSeptember 2nd 2015

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London

July 10th 2015

UPDATE : A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury – it’s ambrosi.napoli@gmail.com and london@thearmoury.com. (Zach is taking appointments an...

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London

UPDATE : A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury – it’s ambrosi.napoli@gmail.com and london@thearmoury.com. (Zach is taking appointments an...

TrousersJuly 10th 2015

The formality of trousers: Reader question

March 9th 2015

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

The formality of trousers: Reader question

Dear Simon, I’ve always been extremes: a worsted wool suit or denim jeans. But having had my first couple of “sports jackets” made I thought it was worth while moving up in the formality stakes with ...

Reader questions - StyleMarch 9th 2015

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

February 25th 2015

Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap. Non-En...

Green cotton trousers, photobombed

Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap. Non-En...

Oxford - ShoesFebruary 25th 2015

Cordings: quality and integrity, if not luxury

January 2nd 2015

Cordings is a rather special shop. Not for its history, which I know others would focus on, but for its consistent philosophy of quality materials and practical construction. This is not a luxury retailer. The knitwear...

Cordings: quality and integrity, if not luxury

Cordings is a rather special shop. Not for its history, which I know others would focus on, but for its consistent philosophy of quality materials and practical construction. This is not a luxury retailer. The knitwear...

Casual wear - TrousersJanuary 2nd 2015

When we write about… E Tautz

December 3rd 2014

In our last post in this series on new London shops, we looked at how readers – with a natural affinity for fit and materials – could analyse the casual wear offered by Private White VC. In this post we shall...

When we write about… E Tautz

In our last post in this series on new London shops, we looked at how readers – with a natural affinity for fit and materials – could analyse the casual wear offered by Private White VC. In this post we shall...

Overcoats - StyleDecember 3rd 2014

Trouser colours to wear with odd jackets

March 14th 2014

Men increasingly wear separate jackets and trousers. It is an inevitable result of more casual office wear, and dressing down more generally. But separates are hard. Men are not used to combining them effectively, and ...

Trouser colours to wear with odd jackets

Men increasingly wear separate jackets and trousers. It is an inevitable result of more casual office wear, and dressing down more generally. But separates are hard. Men are not used to combining them effectively, and ...

Jackets - StyleMarch 14th 2014

Rota trousers

March 7th 2014

There’s no reason you would have heard of Rota, yet it is one of the best makers of trousers in Italy. A small, family-run company, it has been making nothing but trousers for the past 50 years – largely as a...

Rota trousers

There’s no reason you would have heard of Rota, yet it is one of the best makers of trousers in Italy. A small, family-run company, it has been making nothing but trousers for the past 50 years – largely as a...

Tailoring - TrousersMarch 7th 2014

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

October 7th 2013

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleas...

New & Lingwood: Colour, collars and capes

There are precious few clothing shops anywhere in the world that can still be called ‘destinations’: unique stores that aren’t in every country and every airport, where visiting them is a distinct pleas...

Shirts and ties - TailoringOctober 7th 2013

How high should my trousers be? – Reader ques...

July 10th 2013

Hi Simon: Just wanted to say a big thank you for the wonderful work that you have been doing, it’s really pointed the rest us in the right direction. One thing that I have been rather confused on is how pants shoul...

How high should my trousers be? – Reader ques...

Hi Simon: Just wanted to say a big thank you for the wonderful work that you have been doing, it’s really pointed the rest us in the right direction. One thing that I have been rather confused on is how pants shoul...

Reader questions - TailoringJuly 10th 2013

Jodhpur making

January 4th 2013

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; m...

Jodhpur making

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; m...

Tailoring - TrousersJanuary 4th 2013

Polo and jodhpurs in Jodhpur

January 2nd 2013

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; m...

Polo and jodhpurs in Jodhpur

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; m...

Tailoring - TrousersJanuary 2nd 2013

Reader question: pleats

December 19th 2012

D ear Mr. Crompton, I am hoping to follow up quickly on a blog post of yours concerning pleats. I’m having a bespoke suit made up from a Neapolitan tailor, and can’t decide on whether to go with pleats....

Reader question: pleats

D ear Mr. Crompton, I am hoping to follow up quickly on a blog post of yours concerning pleats. I’m having a bespoke suit made up from a Neapolitan tailor, and can’t decide on whether to go with pleats....

Reader questions - TailoringDecember 19th 2012

Five tips on trousers

July 18th 2011

1. Jeans are great. But wearing them every day is boring. Most importantly, you will never let out the stylish man that lies within if you always wear jeans. Get some variety. The jeans that you do wear should be a raw d...

Five tips on trousers

1. Jeans are great. But wearing them every day is boring. Most importantly, you will never let out the stylish man that lies within if you always wear jeans. Get some variety. The jeans that you do wear should be a raw d...

Tailoring - TrousersJuly 18th 2011

Reader question: Trouser waists

December 31st 2010

Anonymous: Do you prefer adjustable metal tabs or adjustable buttons on your suit pants? Is one more formal than the other? Also, I assume your suit pants do not have belt loops…correct? I’ve had a few such q...

Reader question: Trouser waists

Anonymous: Do you prefer adjustable metal tabs or adjustable buttons on your suit pants? Is one more formal than the other? Also, I assume your suit pants do not have belt loops…correct? I’ve had a few such q...

Reader questions - TailoringDecember 31st 2010

Four-inch waistband and self straps

August 4th 2010

To Palm Beach via the French Riviera Esquire, February 1938: “Here are two important new fashions in beach wear. On the left, the combination of the new mocha-coloured linen and cotton-mixed beach shirt, made in co...

Four-inch waistband and self straps

To Palm Beach via the French Riviera Esquire, February 1938: “Here are two important new fashions in beach wear. On the left, the combination of the new mocha-coloured linen and cotton-mixed beach shirt, made in co...

Tailoring - TrousersAugust 4th 2010

Panta: Great trousers made in New York

April 19th 2010

I’ve written before that trousers can be the hardest thing for a man to source once he has gone bespoke with his jackets and shirts. It seems like a waste to have separate trousers made by a bespoke tailor – ...

Panta: Great trousers made in New York

I’ve written before that trousers can be the hardest thing for a man to source once he has gone bespoke with his jackets and shirts. It seems like a waste to have separate trousers made by a bespoke tailor – ...

Tailoring - TrousersApril 19th 2010

Where the brace buttons should be

March 5th 2010

I recently received my first braced suit. That is, one designed to be worn with braces, featuring a high waist and fish-tail back. When I first wore the suit it seemed that the front two pairs of buttons were a little to...

Where the brace buttons should be

I recently received my first braced suit. That is, one designed to be worn with braces, featuring a high waist and fish-tail back. When I first wore the suit it seemed that the front two pairs of buttons were a little to...

Tailoring - TrousersMarch 5th 2010

Finally, lap seam pictures

October 2nd 2009

A while ago a few readers requested a picture of the lap seam, as referred to in my feature on Pogson & Davis, tailors of Mayfair. Apologies this has taken so long, but here they are. The lap seam is a decorative te...

Finally, lap seam pictures

A while ago a few readers requested a picture of the lap seam, as referred to in my feature on Pogson & Davis, tailors of Mayfair. Apologies this has taken so long, but here they are. The lap seam is a decorative te...

Tailoring - TrousersOctober 2nd 2009

Trousers for bright shoes

July 22nd 2009

Summer brings many things bright and unusual, one of which is shoes. They may be a normal colour but in suede, they may be a pale leather or they may be in adventurous and contrasting hues. I’ve had two questions i...

Trousers for bright shoes

Summer brings many things bright and unusual, one of which is shoes. They may be a normal colour but in suede, they may be a pale leather or they may be in adventurous and contrasting hues. I’ve had two questions i...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 22nd 2009

Why men are scared of real trousers

June 24th 2009

It often seems odd quite how many men wear jeans outside the office, and no other trousers. I was sitting in a taxi with three friends a while ago, all facing each other as you are in a black cab, and it struck me that w...

Why men are scared of real trousers

It often seems odd quite how many men wear jeans outside the office, and no other trousers. I was sitting in a taxi with three friends a while ago, all facing each other as you are in a black cab, and it struck me that w...

Tailoring - TrousersJune 24th 2009