Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review
May 24th 2021These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t your everyday, classic chinos. They&rs...
Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review
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I would say a 12 inch front rise and 19 inch back rise are the ideal high waisted proportions. These are the measurements of my original 1950's m52 trousers and I prefer them to any of my trousers with a 13 inch rise. A ...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
May 14th 2021I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks Simon!...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
March 8th 2021Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
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Amazing, so pleased Matthew. That's time, money and waste all saved!...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
January 4th 2021Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aware of when this undermining s...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
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Any suggestion on RTW or MTM DAKS style trousers these days?...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
December 30th 2020We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
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Bummer! Thank you!...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
December 11th 2020The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
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I'm not a big pleats fan period, but I would not have them here particularly, as you say because of the weight and thickness of the cord. A lighter, thinner cord might be OK...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I’ve found that Brisbane moss corduroy is the best at retaining its shape and the colours are more modern. In dark blue, green or camel they look more modern and because the fabric starts out cardboard like they take a...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
October 21st 2020Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
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Thank you. From Jean-Manuel Moreau, reviewed here...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
August 3rd 2020Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not an easy thing to describe. Par...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
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Yes - nearer 12...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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Well, my first decision would be about style, as those would be quite different if the Steed is more English and sharper. That would always be the most important thing. Then, I'd go for bespoke when I could if the execut...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
January 20th 2020This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
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I find they work the same pretty much whether they're on the waistband or on the seam between the waistband and trouser. They also work fine if retro-fitted, though you might struggle to get the same cloth...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
January 6th 2020Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
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Costly and not always possible. It needs to be done by an actual knitting factory, unlike tailoring or shirts that can be done by anybody with a sewing machine...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
December 20th 2019I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
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Wearing the two together? Nothing wrong with it, but as is often the case with navy chinos, another colour like beige or brown would be nicer...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
November 18th 2019Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
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It's just a question of care and time I find - laying them out carefully, smoothing, and then when you iron, watching that fold line to make sure it doesn't move around. It gets a lot easier when you've done it a few tim...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
November 4th 2019Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
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Does anybody know who is actually making A&S trousers in Italy? I'm Italian and really wondering how many let's say "rebranders" are there in the market, even at this high price point, compared with the actual amount...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
September 30th 2019This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics. Available in the men...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
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I think those trousers would be wearable in terms of weight, yes. They're quite an unusual style though, I'm not sure it's something I'd go for if versatility and year-round wear was the aim. And I wouldn't wear smart lo...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
June 12th 2019Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
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I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
June 3rd 2019Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
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All my trousers are garment washed. It’s easy enough to do you just wash them every time they get grubby! So those shiny cotton chinos I get made to measure here in the uk look like those garment washed gap chinos in n...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
May 1st 2019A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last wee...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
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They're nice - I wouldn't tuck in, as you say, but nice otherwise. And they're wide but you can always slim them down if you want to later...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Appreciate simon...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
Match in comments:
I don't, sorry Michael...
