Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
October 11th 2021This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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I did briefly, you're right, but ended up giving them back...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
September 29th 2021Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even luxury ones, ...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
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That hasn't been an issue, but the brand should be aware of it and either account for it at the beginning or pre-wash...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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This is a Spanish brand born in the end of the XX century. It chose an Italian name just to sell better abroad, convinced that even iniciated fashionists think that good taste is only Italian. Today, there are so many go...
Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review
July 19th 2021This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes. First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here. And second, it reviews Blackhorse Lane's made-to-mea...
Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review
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Probably closer to the Anthology...
The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review
June 16th 2021If the last chinos we reviewed in this series were a little more unusual ( from Casatlantic ) then today we’re back with a very good, very everyday pair. Similar in that respect to the first brand we covered - Rubato - just more on the workw...
The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review
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Yes that's right hand twill. Bear in mind it indicates one thing about a material but not everything. What brands offer varies between them, in the same way some might only do one type of wool jumper, others quite a few...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
June 9th 2021The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
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Thanks Simon...
Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review
May 24th 2021These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t your everyday, classic chinos. They&rs...
Casatlantic ‘Mogador’ trousers: Review
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I wasn't planning to And, but I did try it when they did the pop-up with us, and to be honest it's the part of their offering I'd recommend least. Tailoring is the category I would get a cheaper version of last. It shows...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
May 14th 2021I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
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They're quite difference materials really, denim is a lot tougher and coarser. It's not really trying to be smart at all, whereas chinos often are in some ways. To be honest I haven't done much on it as it's just not som...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks for the reply! Yeah, then it's not what I am looking for unfortunately. The search continues!...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
March 8th 2021Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and value. Thos...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
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If that's the starting price, yes I'd still say they are good value. I don't think you can find an English-cut suit at that kind of price and quality elsewhere. You can certainly get good value elsewhere, eg WW Chan in H...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
January 4th 2021Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aware of when this undermining s...
Elasticated waists – the good and the bad
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I'm also a big fan of Informale's T005s. I have them in navy, olive green, black and chocolate linens and keep them on a fairly regular rotation. I've spoken with Steve about this and am seeking a longer term solution - ...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
December 30th 2020We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunlight. It wil...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
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Thank you JMA, yes I like it...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I'd just avoid synthetics whenever I could - I prefer natural materials like a ventile or waxed cotton. Nylon would be very practical though...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
December 11th 2020The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...
Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords
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Nice! So good to hear Nick...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I sadly can’t vouch for Berg and Berg *at all*, having decided to give them a go after reading coverage of them on PS. First and not a dealbreaker, but their fit is strange. The claim to be a classic cut and a true-to-...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
October 21st 2020Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, ex-Richard Jame...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
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Thank you. From Jean-Manuel Moreau, reviewed here...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
August 3rd 2020Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not an easy thing to describe. Par...
What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?
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It depends a little on your height Suvesh, but no 2cm wouldn't make a big difference, only a slight one...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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I'd say the Armoury things are a little higher in the budget, you're paying for the shop and service partly. Whether MTO or MTM works for you depends a lot on body fit that it's hard to judge remotely though...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
January 20th 2020This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including cuffs/turn...
Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs
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I can see why something like that would bother you, but it's a small thing and no, I wouldn't re-order them in order to take 0.5cm off. I don't think it will make a big difference having a hook closure either to be hones...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
January 6th 2020Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...
Pinnas & Needles alterations
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Will do David! It's hard with vintage, you do need to search around, and anything that old will vary in the colour and feel. It's the kind of thing that can be a lot of fun when it's not something you really need!...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
December 20th 2019I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
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I don't know I'm afraid, as mine was an archive piece. Best to check with Fox...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
November 18th 2019Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...
Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers
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No, only that belts tend to look better with the simplest of options, so flat front, then single pleat, and perhaps reverse pleats look simpler than forward....
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
November 4th 2019Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
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Generally I wear wider on more classic ones. However the difference is not big between 20cm and 21cm...
The Guide to Trouser Cloths
September 30th 2019This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics. Available in the men...
