Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

March 8th 2021

Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury   I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...

Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...

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Very well fitted, just as well if not better (at least on me). They have fewer hand-sewn details as standard, and usually don't do extended waistbands etc, but they can do those too. I find I prefer a cleaner, well-made ...

TrousersMarch 8th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

January 4th 2021

Elasticated waists are becoming increasingly popular in men's trousers. And I think they do have a place - when they are practical, and don't undermine the style. But it's important to consciously draw a line - to be aware of when this undermining s...

Elasticated waists – the good and the bad

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Funnily enough I got turn ups on my pair and then ended up having them removed as I preferred the natural folding up also. Firstly because I like to wear quite a cropped trouser normally and I didn't get the turn up quit...

TrousersJanuary 4th 2021

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

December 30th 2020

  We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...

Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age

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Just in case you weren't aware Mike, the current Army chinos aren't the same as the ones I've covered here - different material, cut and maker...

TrousersDecember 30th 2020

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

December 23rd 2020

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 23rd 2020

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

December 11th 2020

The main reason I shot this outfit with Milad last month was to talk about the cords - a heavy Brisbane Moss brown that has both its pleasures and its weaknesses. I’ll run through the rest of the outfit too though, because there are a few thin...

Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords

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Best suggestion is spencers trousers in Yorkshire. Made to order service. If you have a pair of trousers that fit well you can measure them to ensure a good fit. Very good quality trousers in a large variety of clothes. ...

TrousersDecember 11th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

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I’ve been buying trousers and other items from them every season. I simply love the wool trousers they offer. Every single pair fits as perfectly as RTW can be on my body, and I have no complaints against the quality. ...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

October 21st 2020

Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...

Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor

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OK thanks Alex, will do. And yes you could....

Alterations and care - TrousersOctober 21st 2020

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

August 3rd 2020

Using a device to measure front rise When I review suits, or trousers specifically, I often talk about the rise of the trouser: how it has been cut to sit on me, and how effective that is. However, trouser rise is not an easy thing to describe. Par...

What are low, medium and high-rise trousers?

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Might anyone have a purchasing for source for that "measurement device" as you call it? Tailor's Trouser Rise Ruler? That image of it being used illustrates two attributes of trouser that baffle most men, and are widely ...

TrousersAugust 3rd 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

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Yes, and also bear in mind a lot of other costs, such as developing exclusive materials often, and putting some actual design work into the tailoring. Plus, you'll find the finishing level is better with Attolini than wi...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

January 20th 2020

  This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including...

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

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Well, it's not hard to take them off later. Not possible the other way round...

TrousersJanuary 20th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

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No, sorry. Any alterations tailor would do. Ideally they'd have some experience with Italian style jackets, but chances are they will given the volume of Italian RTW out there...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

Wearing navy trousers as separates

December 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

Match in comments:
Thanks Lukasz, and yes good points...

Style - TrousersDecember 20th 2019

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

November 18th 2019

Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

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Thanks, Simon. Your responses always really help my choices....

TrousersNovember 18th 2019

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

November 4th 2019

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

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I tried drake's, they are great and fit well but the price is a little high. I ordered a pair from spencers trousers up north in yorkshire. £155 made to measure (they can copy your favourite pair of trousers) They use B...

TrousersNovember 4th 2019

The Guide to Trouser Cloths

September 30th 2019

This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics. Available in the men...

The Guide to Trouser Cloths

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The rental industry for suits at times has the challenge of offering lightweight fabric with the following specifications: 2/2 Twill 100%Wool 166 grams/meter2 Yarn number 2/90 x 1/60 Nm Based on customer service comments...

TrousersSeptember 30th 2019

Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...

September 18th 2019

So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...

Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...

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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...

Casual clothing - Glasses and jewellerySeptember 18th 2019

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

June 12th 2019

Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...

Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...

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I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...

Cloth - TrousersJune 12th 2019

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

June 3rd 2019

Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...

Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review

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Yes I would, either...

TrousersJune 3rd 2019

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

May 1st 2019

A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last wee...

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

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They're nice - I wouldn't tuck in, as you say, but nice otherwise. And they're wide but you can always slim them down if you want to later...

TrousersMay 1st 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

April 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

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Probably, yes, aside from vintage versions...

Bags - Casual clothingApril 24th 2019

Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...

April 5th 2019

This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...

Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...

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If you haven't already, can I recommend Aero Leather in Galashiels as a place to try out a bespoke-style experience for leather jackets. They have a wide array of leathers - their double-sided goat suede is particularly ...

Casual clothing - KnitwearApril 5th 2019

The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...

November 28th 2018

Several readers commented on the post highlighting pieces from No Man Walks Alone that articles on other shops would be helpful, if objective and analytical. If there’s any area that needs this most, it’s trousers. Once men find a model...

The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...

Match in comments:
It's probably tightness across the seat and hips Jonny, it usually is with me. But you're right that it's often not a good idea to try and diagnose it yourself - leave it to a good alterations tailor...

TrousersNovember 28th 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....

Casual clothing - CoatsOctober 29th 2018

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

October 10th 2018

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

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Slim...

Casual clothing - HatsOctober 10th 2018