Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
June 12th 2019Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
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I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
June 3rd 2019Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
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Yes they are, you're right, but I did wear them for long enough. The basketweave doesn't hold its shape that well, but that's not really it's style. It's a soft cloth and the appeal I think is that it manages to be a lit...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
May 1st 2019A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last wee...
PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)
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They're nice - I wouldn't tuck in, as you say, but nice otherwise. And they're wide but you can always slim them down if you want to later...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Yes I know, frightening isn't it?...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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I don't, sorry Michael...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
November 28th 2018Several readers commented on the post highlighting pieces from No Man Walks Alone that articles on other shops would be helpful, if objective and analytical. If there’s any area that needs this most, it’s trousers. Once men find a model...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
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I live in korea i want to do osaku hayato bespoke but he does not take new customer right now i am thinking ambrosi trunk show at armoury but i prefer straight fit but you know ambrosi is quite tapered...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
October 29th 2018It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
October 10th 2018A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve already bought...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
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Yes good point, I think that was more a case of how I came to feel about the PWVC cut over time, rather than changing my tastes. But yes shetlands I definitely wear less. Apart from those two I wear Colhay's, Bryceland's...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
October 8th 2018Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
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I think the first two sound like good places to start, though greys and dark browns might be easier. I'm suggesting over the top of them you can wear not a blazer but a coat or something more casual, or indeed nothing at...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
June 29th 2018If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
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I'd say cream to pale beige. Not a bright or strong colour. I don't know on that bunch I'm afraid...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
June 11th 2018I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
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Yes...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
May 4th 2018Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
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Yes I think so...
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
April 30th 2018One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser opening or bottom, at the kne...
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
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If you want that kind of clean look Daniel, yes you'll either have to go a little shorter on the cuffed trousers or a little wider. Personally I'd go a little shorter. It's either that or not have the cuffs...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
April 18th 2018If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
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It's pretty much £1000 today, so it's gone up a lot...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
February 12th 2018*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
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Thanks for clarifying, Simon. I have never had cream trousers and I actually look forward to wearing them and if I find they are not for me than so be it. But then my style development curve is in another phase than your...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
December 11th 2017A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
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I don't think there's a right or wrong here, Heiko, it's a style question mostly and the kind of thing that varies with time. It's also about how often you wear it with different things. I'd say that today, I rarely wear...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
December 8th 2017It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchanged The Armoury for Drop93 -...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
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I'm afraid I don't know much about the make of the RTW jackets, sorry David....
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
November 20th 2017Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft and style, deep tradition and ...
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
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It's here John...
Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of t...
November 17th 2017Matthew Coles of Drake's (and Dominic of Edward Sexton behind) Francis Paley of Chittleborough & Morgan (a photography magnet...) Allan's family! There was a really lovely atmosphere to the opening of our second pop-up shop on Wednesday nigh...
Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of t...
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No, flannel trousers are not that suited to hot, humid weather...
Pommella bespoke trousers – Review
November 3rd 2017Lino Pommella recently became the latest entrant into a group of travelling, Neapolitan trouser makers - a path forged, of course, by Salvatore Ambrosi. The other notable one is Cerrato, whom we have covered elsewhere but who only currently travels ...
Pommella bespoke trousers – Review
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Thanks Simon. Understood!...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
September 20th 2017Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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For a cream linen suit? No, not at all. Jacket or trousers, yes, but the suit should not be regarded as a staple. For DBs, absolutely...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
September 18th 2017I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. Some tailors ...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
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As far as I know there still is, yes. Have you not tried a Google search?...
How to dress for very hot weather
August 16th 2017As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end of that mon...
How to dress for very hot weather
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To be honest, no probably not. While it is nice if your teenage daughters like how you dress, I wouldn't say they would be near the top of my priority list (my two eldest are also teenagers). My partner, me, and my cultu...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
August 9th 2017As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in Soh...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
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Thanks Andrew - really appreciate the response. I love Natalino and nearly all of my higher end trousers are from there. The thinking with the trousers is as much building up trust/ relationship before buying a suit, wit...
