Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Thanks all for the recommendations. Any opinions on Cavour shirts (regurlar or premium) as some are on sale and look great...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
A couple of years ago, we discontinued the denim shirts sold on PS largely because of issues with producing and storing the cloth. Since then we’ve been working on alternatives, and finally settled on a Japanese-woven cotton last year. These ...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
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Hi Riccardo, No it doesn't, but interesting point, something we can definitely consider next time...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear brands, who make or at least a...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
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Thanks a lot!...
Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
This coat has a good story behind it, and is a nice one for Dry January I think, as it shows different ways clothes can be remade, repurposed and repaired. I bought it at the workwear-oriented shop Jinji in Paris . It had been made by them under th...
Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
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Fully understood. Back to the clothing itself... I really like the idea of a project like this, taking something that sat almost as a museum piece and bringing it back to life as a wearable piece. Very roughly along thes...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background - always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader - and his...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
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Hi Harry mate. Best thing you can do if you get the chance is to get yourself along to an PS event or reach out to one if the guys on Instagram and ask then to give you some recommendations or maybe meet up for a coffee,...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
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I think that can be nice Alex, certainly better than a coloured bow tie or cummerbund. Personally I'd still go with black, as that's the essence of black tie for me, but burgundy socks wouldn't be bad at all...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full ...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
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Yes. Trees make less of a difference, but I still would if they were worn regularly. Worth a brush down after wear just like suede as well...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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I'd say brown is probably right, followed closely by the natural. I wouldn't go navy with gold buttons. My only concern would be that I haven't seen that material made up as a bespoke jacket, so I'm not sure how casual i...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
Getting good mid-blue jeans can be tricky, given the prevalence of raw denim among most high-end makers we cover. Several do offer washes - like Orslow and Full Count - but the range and therefore the choice is usually less. Plus of course that&rsq...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
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That instruction would have been more for when they were new, to get the shrinkage out. Now I doubt there is any. I would wash as you're doing...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
When we approached the headquarters of 45R, I was a little nervous. I'd been given an introduction by a friend, but had no idea what the management team knew about me or Permanent Style, or how much they cared. It was late afternoon and already get...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
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Bought online sadly and Levi’s have terrible customer service....
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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Thank you Alex...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Currently in Tokyo on holiday and unable to find any dry cleaners to do a quick turnaround. Hotel doesn't offer it and local places are quoting a week or even a month! If anyone knows of a fast service in the Ginza area ...
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
Levi’s had exposed rivets on their back pockets until 1937, when complaints about scratched saddles and seats forced them to be covered. A few years later the rivet on the crotch was removed, with the better (but possibly apocryphal) story tha...
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
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I bought my first levi jeans ? and jacket for £2::50 and £2:50 for jeans many years ago they had to have red stitching in the legs for original levies in a shop in Inverness...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's , and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be ...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
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I think it would, yes. Similar style and I really like it. Maybe not quite the same level of fit as the anthology, but close...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward. Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming up more is that there are more...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
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Hi Josh, No, we don't have any plans. We normally only do products when we can't find the thing out there already we love, and I'd suggest Bryceland's or Rubato jeans on that score...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
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Thanks, yes I've seen those labels before. I think there is quite a bit that's still handwoven, as in it's not too hard to find, even if it's of course a tiny proportion of the market. Crofts in Lewis and Harris are the ...
Wear loafers with jeans
In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans. Jeans ar...
Wear loafers with jeans
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Thanks!...
Reader profile: Tim
Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, including all second-hand clothing. ...
Reader profile: Tim
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Great story! I reuse or repair a lot of my families old ranch clothes! Its a great aesthetic, and I dont have to pay for a high quality jean shirt, when I have vintage made in the USA wrangler shirts ready to go! Also, P...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
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That sounds sensible on the first point Kirill, and they will be able to alter them for you in the shop if you want. I think that sounds normal, but hard to say for sure remotely...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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I think they and Chan would be good. With both I'd just err towards a most casual sleevehead, and spend time trying to find a most casual cloth...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
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I think the latter myself Ryan...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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Hello Paul. I don’t know how easy it is to physically see C&J in Geneva so here is a close up of their rough out suede leather in brown if that helps, as sometimes official website pictures are met that helpful. I ...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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This is a Spanish brand born in the end of the XX century. It chose an Italian name just to sell better abroad, convinced that even iniciated fashionists think that good taste is only Italian. Today, there are so many go...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
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Simon, I agree with this sentiment!!! A good fit and style is worth that expense. I may pay Blackhorse a visit pretty soon. Pair your Blackhorse jeans or indeed any jeans with one of Tim Hardy’s of Worcestershire fanta...
