Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's , and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be ...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
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Yes, very true. Not to knock Nudie at all - I really admire what they do - but it's interesting how larger brands have to publish that kind of transparency, and talk about it, whereas smaller brands like the ones we more...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward. Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming up more is that there are more...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
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I turn mine up to show off the selvedge. Thought that was why people did it, have learnt a lot reading all your comments....
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
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Thanks, yes I've seen those labels before. I think there is quite a bit that's still handwoven, as in it's not too hard to find, even if it's of course a tiny proportion of the market. Crofts in Lewis and Harris are the ...
Wear loafers with jeans
In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans. Jeans ar...
Wear loafers with jeans
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I have and it is an OK make, good for beating up as you say. Still I'd probably go for something like Rancourt or something like Yuketen...
Reader profile: Tim
Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, including all second-hand clothing. ...
Reader profile: Tim
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Hey BB - yeah it’s in the comments above. Bentleys...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
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A good make from what I know, but I've never tried them...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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yes...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
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I’ve tried hard to love raw denim but finally switched back to pre-washed a couple of years ago. I’ve had several pairs of Edwins and a pair of 3Sixteen, which were quite expensive and didn’t last long. As you ment...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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No, they're a 2-ply which is standard yarn for this kind of polo knit. You could wear over a shirt or instead of one. However, they are different to a Smedley or a PS polo, which use much finer merino yarn. This is expla...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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Good point, and no, not particularly I'm afraid. I find a similar issue, and often narrow the body but have the same issue with the collar....
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
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I recently had a pair of MTM jeans made by BHL. It was a wonderful experience. Lilly was extremely helpful and detail-focused. I felt she really cared about getting the best fit possible, even when it meant more work for...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Go...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
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Hi Simon - good to hear your thoughts on vintage vs. second hand - and what differentiates the two. Much that is second hand gets described as “vintage” for marketing and pricing purposes. Clearly there’s no hard a...
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by the indigo textures on display in the window,...
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
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Oh dear, that is a shame, thanks for letting me know Alessandro...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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Drake's ecru jeans are still available aren't they? For the others, look at either the Clutch or Son of a Stag website for white or ecru jeans - they will always have new options. The Allevol ones are nice too at Clutch....
How to wash and wear raw denim
People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’. Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it less, at the ...
How to wash and wear raw denim
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I am anxious that a 40 degree wash could make the jeans shorter, which would make them unwearable. They are perfect as they are now. Damn, this menswear thing is nothing for weak nerves :)...
How jeans can be altered
One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longevity - that in fact, jeans...
How jeans can be altered
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Just get one! I'd have them with a slight break, to turn up. You can always adjust that by turning up more or less, but if there's no extra length then you're a bit stuck....
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
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I haven't tried it, but yes it would...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrift shops, or seeking ba...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
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I don't know LA that well I'm afraid, but I know Raggedy Threads is good. Ask in there...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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Yes, it was a small. Bit short as a result though...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
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Thanks Dave...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...
One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before w...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...
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I think it depends a lot on your trouser rise as well, Rob. If you wear a modern, low rise that could definitely be an issue, but it's not what the brand or I would wear...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: navy, green, grey and white. Yo...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
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I think it could look good, yes. I tend to wear them with softer cuts of tailoring, and that will be easier, but they can work with others - just keep the materials more casual, as you suggest...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
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Thanks Ethan, and well noted...
