Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?

November 2nd 2022

Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward. Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming up more is that there are more...

Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?

Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward.  Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming ...

DenimNovember 2nd 2022

J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York

October 24th 2022

It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...

J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York

It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .)  I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 24th 2022

Wear loafers with jeans

October 10th 2022

In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans. Jeans ar...

Wear loafers with jeans

In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers ...

Denim - ShoesOctober 10th 2022

Reader profile: Tim

August 10th 2022

Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, including all second-hand clothing. ...

Reader profile: Tim

Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, includi...

Coats - DenimAugust 10th 2022

What makes quality jeans – and should you c...

May 25th 2022

A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...

What makes quality jeans – and should you c...

A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doe...

DenimMay 25th 2022

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

January 19th 2022

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...

Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket

Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring .  But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, somet...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 19th 2022

Reader profile: Mattia

January 17th 2022

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...

Reader profile: Mattia

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear.  I enjoyed talking to him, and his friend...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 17th 2022

How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)

November 19th 2021

I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...

How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)

I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. Th...

DenimNovember 19th 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too.  I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because ...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise?  This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in var...

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans

May 12th 2021

About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...

Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans

About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans.  Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly C...

DenimMay 12th 2021

Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)

April 21st 2021

There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Go...

Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)

There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broa...

Casual clothing - DenimApril 21st 2021

The craft and eccentricity of 45R

April 19th 2021

The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by the indigo textures on display in the window,...

The craft and eccentricity of 45R

The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake.  I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by the indigo textures...

Denim - Hanks and scarvesApril 19th 2021

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

April 7th 2021

White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association.  Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to t...

Denim - StyleApril 7th 2021

How to wash and wear raw denim

March 26th 2021

People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’. Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it less, at the ...

How to wash and wear raw denim

People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’.  Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it...

DenimMarch 26th 2021

How jeans can be altered

January 29th 2021

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longevity - that in fact, jeans...

How jeans can be altered

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered.  It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longe...

DenimJanuary 29th 2021

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad.  They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the p...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrift shops, or seeking ba...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective.  People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrif...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five.  And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs ...

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

The Trench Coat with casual wear

September 13th 2019

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...

The Trench Coat with casual wear

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing...

Denim - HatsSeptember 13th 2019

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

September 11th 2019

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products...

Bags - ClothSeptember 11th 2019

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...

March 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before w...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally...

Denim - KnitwearMarch 13th 2019

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...

December 14th 2018

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: navy, green, grey and white. Yo...

Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...

Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: na...

Denim - ShirtsDecember 14th 2018

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in p...

Denim - November 16th 2018

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas tro...

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 12th 2018