Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule
I usually find packing for work trips quite straightforward. I know what I’ll be doing, in what kinds of places, and therefore what clothing will be appropriate. The challenge is smaller things like a summer jacket that will go with both tailo...
Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule
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Remarkable photo album. I instantly found myself inspired to cavort through the Highlands with a healthy selection of tweeds at the ready....
Buck Mason: Good value staples
A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Pleasure James...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
A couple of years ago, we discontinued the denim shirts sold on PS largely because of issues with producing and storing the cloth. Since then we’ve been working on alternatives, and finally settled on a Japanese-woven cotton last year. These ...
Introducing: Japanese denim shirts
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I do, though I also have some bespoke options. There is quite a big difference between sizes in the shirts, so that might account for why the large seems so large to you. Sometimes there is a very small amount of shrinka...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear brands, who make or at least a...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
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Probably not Daniel! I've tried heavy denim before that was a lot lighter than that and didn't like it (from Blackhorse Lane). It was uncomfortable, stayed wet for longer, and actually wore through as fast if not faster ...
Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
This coat has a good story behind it, and is a nice one for Dry January I think, as it shows different ways clothes can be remade, repurposed and repaired. I bought it at the workwear-oriented shop Jinji in Paris . It had been made by them under th...
Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
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Fully understood. Back to the clothing itself... I really like the idea of a project like this, taking something that sat almost as a museum piece and bringing it back to life as a wearable piece. Very roughly along thes...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background - always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader - and his...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
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Every time I read one of these, I learn something new. He’s got a phenomenal command of color and proportion. Really sharp dresser....
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
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Simon: Thanks for the recommendation. Went to San Francisco Market today and bought couple pants (PT Torino) and shirts. I have been coming to Seoul for many years and never know that neighborhood existed! Some cool stor...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full ...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
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Yes. Trees make less of a difference, but I still would if they were worn regularly. Worth a brush down after wear just like suede as well...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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I'd say brown is probably right, followed closely by the natural. I wouldn't go navy with gold buttons. My only concern would be that I haven't seen that material made up as a bespoke jacket, so I'm not sure how casual i...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
Getting good mid-blue jeans can be tricky, given the prevalence of raw denim among most high-end makers we cover. Several do offer washes - like Orslow and Full Count - but the range and therefore the choice is usually less. Plus of course that&rsq...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
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Because the leg line of the 505 is different...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
When we approached the headquarters of 45R, I was a little nervous. I'd been given an introduction by a friend, but had no idea what the management team knew about me or Permanent Style, or how much they cared. It was late afternoon and already get...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
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Bought online sadly and Levi’s have terrible customer service....
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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Thank you Alex...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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I can vouch highly for Nakata Hangers....
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
Levi’s had exposed rivets on their back pockets until 1937, when complaints about scratched saddles and seats forced them to be covered. A few years later the rivet on the crotch was removed, with the better (but possibly apocryphal) story tha...
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
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Oh thank you!...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's , and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be ...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
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Yeah, that could be nice...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward. Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming up more is that there are more...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
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Yes that can be nice...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
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Thanks, yes I've seen those labels before. I think there is quite a bit that's still handwoven, as in it's not too hard to find, even if it's of course a tiny proportion of the market. Crofts in Lewis and Harris are the ...
Wear loafers with jeans
In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans. Jeans ar...
Wear loafers with jeans
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Oh good...
Reader profile: Tim
Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, including all second-hand clothing. ...
Reader profile: Tim
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Great story! I reuse or repair a lot of my families old ranch clothes! Its a great aesthetic, and I dont have to pay for a high quality jean shirt, when I have vintage made in the USA wrangler shirts ready to go! Also, P...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t ...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
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Actually really interesting. Blackhorse lane I have 36 size. Tried on 40 samurai in lighter denim, and honestly felt like clown trousers. Bought 25oz same size same cut unsanforised, expecting to shrink to 38". (Didn't s...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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It's a straight lapel that then looks like it curves inwards when worn. If you lay it flat it is perfectly straight I'd say a little more casual and relaxed, yes, as the fronts seem more to be rolling open more naturally...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
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Oh dear!...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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Interesting, thanks Joe, yes you're right on the washing out. I haven't found one I'm afraid, apart from the occasional Anonymous-Ism pair. True!...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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This is a Spanish brand born in the end of the XX century. It chose an Italian name just to sell better abroad, convinced that even iniciated fashionists think that good taste is only Italian. Today, there are so many go...
